There is an equivalent stabilizer to what is shown in the video, just a slightly different shape to work with a thru axle. If you can’t find one, you can always just place a piece of cardboard around the bottom of the fork.
]]>Hi Vipul, they vary in size. For ones where you take off just the front wheel (not both) I believe it would be roughly 140 x 25 x 90cm
]]>glad you enjoyed it!
]]>I have made 3 trips to Europe with hydraulic disc brakes with no problems. just don’t forget to insert disc brake spacers like this (the orange pad thing https://www.bike-components.de/cache/p/xl1/6/7/Shimano-Disc-Brake-Pad-Spacer-for-BR-M315-BR-MT200-BR-MT400-universal-universal-67516-258572-1553603091.jpeg) or your brakes will be very spongey and may need bleeding…
]]>Thanks François, nice idea. If you were worried about extra weight, than you could use the plastic cardboard just on the parts pushed up against the sides of the box.
As for your question, I don’t know the answer. But we do recommend that people in general do not bring hydraulic (oil) disc brakes simply because they are possibly more problematic in travel and harder to deal with if they need repairs on the side of the road or in small villages not familiar with repairing them. Cable actuated disc brakes are the way to go for touring.
]]>Sugg.: line the inner sides of the box with corroplast (plasticised cardboard, kinda. Name may vary by country). Really strengthens the box against pokes and consequences or tears. Cheap to get from local printers or ad agencies. Corroplast is often used for outside poster and ads)
Question: what about travelling with disk breaks. Any special care to give to oil lines against pressure issues? I really wonder (new bike with disk brks.).
Hope we can freely travel again soon… ?
Thx!
Yes, that can happen. Depending on how seized it is inside the frame, it can require some heavy duty equipment to remove – if it can be at all. I suggest doing your best to pack it up as is, and when you get it home take it to a bike shop. They might be able to use penetrating oils, a table vice and/or other tools to get more leverage and hopefully remove the pesky seat. Good luck and congrats on your SE Asian adventures!
]]>Those are all excellent tips Peter.
It’s strange but I always forget to deflate tires, but have never been asked too. Better safe than sorry though – so I agree – you should deflate.
Thanks for adding your advice to the conversation. Happy pedalling…
]]>Thanks David! We had fun putting it together.
]]>Instead of buying foam padding to protect the frame, you can instead wrap old bicycle tubes around the frame.
I find it’s easier to remove the whole stem w/ handle bars from the steering tube rather than undo all the bolts in goose neck faceplate.
Making sure the bike is clean of all dirt is important for many destinations to avoid problems with customs biosecurity (eg. NZ and Australia). Mountain bikes in particular.
Lastly, when reassembling the bike, flatten the box and use it as a protective surface rather than scratching the bike on a rough surface. It’s otherwise easy to find a dropped screw/bolt if you’re reassembling on grass.
]]>Thanks Peter! We had fun putting it together. If you had any questions that weren’t answered here, let me know! Happy to help…
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Thanks Howard. I appreciate the feedback. We tried to be as thorough as possible…
Regarding chain lube. It can be messy, so no harm wiping off the excess before you start disassembling the bike. It’ll save your clothes and keep the box neater. Inevitable the oil/dirt/grim will end up on your seat, or handlebars, which means inevitably on you.
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