After leading the Golden Buddha Ride participants from Hanoi to Bangkok this past fall and scouting new routes for us in Laos and China, Tour Leader Andreas Pakenham sat down with us to talk about what people can expect when cycling in China and Southeast Asia on our newest tour – The Road to Shangri-La.
How many times/how many countries have you visited now in Southeast Asia?
For TDA, I’ve traveled to SE Asia 7 times, and visited Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia.
Can you describe the scouting/research you have done as we prepare for the first Road to Shangri-La tour?
Beginning in 2023, I revisited some of the planned routes which were shared with the Golden Buddha Ride, rechecking them by motorcycle and making some small changes in Vietnam and Laos. (In 2027, The Road to Shangri-La is replacing the Golden Buddha Ride on our tour calendar)
In 2025, we made further changes in Vietnam and significant changes in Laos, including an amazing stage which splits the day into two spectacular rides, separated by a boat ride of 7 km through a rugged limestone cave (See video below). I also had a chance to check the section of the tour through Yunnan, China. A lot has changed since the original scout in 2019. (The tour was first announced in August 2019)
What have been the biggest challenges to overcome in terms of route planning?
The biggest challenge in South East Asia is the pace of development. Car ownership is increasing and there are new factories, ports and gated communities. Largely, it’s made scouting a quiet route much more difficult, but at the same time it’s allowed me to discover truly special routes.
What are the roads like – especially in China. Is there a lot of traffic, a lot of scooters? Is it very urban or mostly rural?
The roads in China are fairly quiet for the most part. We’re lucky to be visiting one of the ‘slowest’ parts of the country from an economic perspective, so despite there being a few big factories along the way, we’re mostly able to skirt around businesses and industry.
What are 1 or 2 unexpected highlights riders can look forward to that you discovered during the tour?
The cave boat ride day in Laos I mentioned earlier is a highlight, not just for this tour. It’s a TDA scouting highlight for me (See Andreas’ video highlights from his scouting below). There’s always a special feeling to piece together an amazing ride in place of a monotonous one, but this one feels like putting the riders in a nature documentary half way through the stage.
Another highlight will be Northeastern Vietnam. Inadvertently, on the way to start scouting from the Laos border, we discovered some amazing roads through coffee plantations and dense jungle that ended up being more scenic and interesting than the planned route. After we realized this, we made our way back, and figured out how to roll that into the tour.
RELATED
TOUR
The Road to Shangri-La
Shangri-La, an earthly paradise cut off from the world in a hidden Himalayan valley, a place where there is no war or suffering and where people live...
Each January the New York Times puts out their ’52 Places To Go’ list. I have always enjoyed reading it. It’s a thoughtful list of the expected (Italy, California, Scandinavia) and unexpected (Armenia, Guyana, Algeria), destinations that inspire us to travel and explore our planet.
It’s very interesting to see which of those 52 are part of the cycling adventures that we run. You might have seen that we offer “tours in over 80 countries” (and we are getting closer to updating that to 90!) and just like the New York Times’ list, we have tours in both expected and unexpected places. The one thing we have always tried to do is take cyclists to destinations that are not your typical locations for bike travel and so we were excited to see that this year’s list highlights some of these unique and amazing destinations.
Here are 11 places where our tours intersect the New York Times list.
Warsaw, Poland
TDA’s tour: The Amber Route, starting July, 2027 in Tallinn, passes through Warsaw as the tour makes its way to Venice.
What the New York Times has to say: “For decades, the Polish capital has been seen as pragmatic rather than magnetic. In 2026, it demands to be seen anew.”
We have a rest day in this historic city which carries special meaning for our Office Manger, Olha, who wrote about it last year. Her advice for your visit… “As you explore this remarkable city, take a moment to connect with the people who call it home. Walk the streets, bike the lanes and listen to their stories.”
Bangkok, Thailand
TDA’s tour: The Bamboo Road has a rest day in Bangkok in November of this year at the mid-point between Hanoi and Singapore.
What the New York Times has to say: “In the city centre, it’s now possible to walk between two central parks, Benjakitti and Lumphini, along a 20-acre green corridor featuring an array of sculptures.”
Many years ago, our founder, Henry Gold, did a photo walking tour of Bangkok and came up with some pretty interesting shots. Check it out.
Oran, Algeria
TDA’s tour: Road of Empires will arrive at the Port of Oran in March of 2027.
What the New York Times has to say: “As Algeria emerges as a tourist destination, Oran, a breezy Mediterranean port city, is experiencing a cultural revival that blends its layered past with a bold new energy. Known as the birthplace of rai, a genre of Algerian folk music from the 1920s, Oran is reclaiming its position as a hub for creativity and nightlife.”
While our time in Oran is brief (we have a lovely meal after disembarking from the ferry from Spain and are then are transported to Mostagenem where we begin pedalling along the coastline), we are so happy to see Algeria getting some well-deserved attention. We are always striving to find new destinations for cycling adventures and Algeria is certainly the one we are most excited about. We are the only bike tour company operating tours there as far as we know and to hear the New York Times declaring that Algeria is emerging as a tourist destination only validates what we already knew. Algeria is safe, the cycling is great, the Mediterranean views and green rolling hills are unexpected, the ruins of ancient empires are not to be missed, and the people are warm and welcoming.
Penang, Malaysia
TDA’s tour: The Bamboo Road reaches Penang in December of this year.
What the New York Times has to say: “A multicultural city rich in history celebrates its storied past…Its narrow streets are lined with Buddhist temples and mosques, British colonial mansions and the city’s famous shophouses — local businesses whose migrant Chinese and Indian proprietors lived upstairs.”
Just like Algeria, we suspect that Malaysia is a cycling destination soon to be on more people’s radar. We have been cycling there for over a decade and back in 2013, this is how Henry Gold described Georgetown (the main city on Penang Island) – “Georgetown is known as a place where the people that make up Malaysia; the Malay, Chinese, Indians, Tamils, expats and others, live, rub against each other and create a wonderful local mélange of culture and food.” Read more of Henry’s impressions here.
Nagasaki, Japan
TDA’s tour: The Journey to the East will begin the Japanese portion of the tour in this city in May of this year.
What the New York Times has to say: “Visit an 800-year-old camphor tree. Around the corner is Fukusaya, a confectionery that has sold cakes since 1624. Try a “milk seiki,” a frozen dessert drink, at Fujio. For nearly 40 years, Hideyuki Natsume — the soft-spoken son of atomic bomb survivors — has been running Milestone, a jazz bar.”
When Henry (he has written a lot about the destinations we visit if you haven’t already noticed!) visited the city, he stopped in to the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum and then practiced some shinrin-yoku in the forests around Nagasaki. Read his musings here.
Tien Shan Mountains, Kyrgyzstan
TDA’s tour: The aptly named ‘Mountains and Meadows‘ section of our Silk Route tour takes us through parts of the Tien Shan mountains. The next Silk Route adventure is scheduled for 2027.
What the New York Times has to say: “The 1,243-mile Kyrgyz Nomad Trail crosses Kyrgyzstan in an east-west direction, winding through the rugged Tien Shan Mountains and along small villages and seasonal yurt camps. Attractions include glaciers; Kel Suu, a turquoise lake ringed by jagged cliffs; Tash Rabat, a preserved 15th-century caravansary; and Saimaluu Tash, a remote alpine valley featuring a large collection of petroglyphs.”
This region is truly stunning and if I could be transported to one spot on earth to go for a bike ride, it would probably be somewhere up there in those beautiful mountains. Wild horses, semi-nomadic families in their seasonal yurts, turquoise lakes under snowcapped mountains and creeks trickling and rivers rushing. We pedal some truly incredible and remote roads that are challenging but most definitely worth the effort.
Vietnam
TDA’s tour: The Bamboo Road begins in Vietnam’s capital, Hanoi, later this year.
What the New York Times has to say: “Vietnam, a growing tourism powerhouse in Southeast Asia, beckons to millions of vacationers annually with its famous food culture, staggering natural scenery — ranging from mountains to rainforests — and a storied history that dates to the seventh century B.C.”
We have developed a tried and true route through Vietnam that gives cyclists a good sense of the country – both on quiet backroads in the countryside, but also among the scooter and motorbike traffic in its towns and cities. Former Bamboo Road medic, Jill, wrote this comedic piece on learning to swim with the traffic flow.
Yunnan, China
TDA’s tour: We are very excited to add the Road to Shangri-La to our tour catalogue. The inaugural trip will start in January, 2027 and reach China’s Yunnan province in February of that year.
What the New York Times has to say: “For well over a millennium, until the mid-20th century, a series of paths called the Tea Horse Road was used to export tea leaves to Tibet from China’s southern provinces. Many of these routes traced across the biodiverse region of Yunnan, which is considered tea’s birthplace and is still the main producer of China’s coveted pu-er variety. The network no longer exists as it once did, but many of the villages that were once its waypoints do.”
After many years of planning and waiting (thanks, COVID), we are ready to finally launch this tour, visiting legendary towns like Dali and Lijiang, that were once part of the Tea Horse Road.
Okinawa, Japan
TDA’s tour: Island Hopping Japan sets off in October, 2027 and will reach the finish line in Okinawa in late November of that year.
What the New York Times has to say: “For centuries, Okinawa’s dazzling Shuri Castle was the seat of the Ryukyu Kingdom, whose territory included this 463-square-mile island about halfway between Taiwan and the rest of Japan. Distinct from other such buildings because of its vibrant red color, the hilltop citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage site originally dating to the 13th century, is set to reopen in the fall after years of painstaking reconstruction using traditional methods, after a catastrophic fire in 2019.”
Here is how one rider described the tour on its inaugural voyage in 2025 – “The Island Hopping Japan Tour is a fabulous new tour – the variety of landscapes, challenging and remote cycling, wildlife and a great introduction to Japanese culture off the beaten track are just a few of the highlights. The ferry travel added another fun and interesting dimension.”
Rio Pastaza Watershed, Ecuador
TDA’s tour: The South American Epic that starts this June, passes through Ecuador in August.
What the New York Times has to say: “Baños de Agua Santa, a town known as the “gateway to the Ecuadorean Amazon,” is surrounded by mountains that shed water into the Pastaza River. On those slopes, Dracula orchids, whose flowers resemble monkey faces, bloom in tropical forests swathed in clouds, living alongside spectacled bears and vibrantly patterned frogs.”
Arguably our most ambitious expedition, the South American Epic will again take cyclists across the entire continent and dip down from the Andes into the Amazon in places like Baños alongside Rio Pastaza. Pictured above, one of the 2024 participants, Neil, cycles out of Baños.
Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
TDA’s tour: The 2026 Tour d’Afrique is already underway but there is still time to join the 2027 edition.
What the New York Times has to say: “The Ngorongoro Conservation Area, a UNESCO World Heritage site in northeastern Tanzania spanning highland plains, savanna landscapes, woodlands and forests, has long drawn travelers to its spectacular crater, the world’s largest unbroken caldera, born from an ancient volcanic collapse. In March 2025, 17 southern white rhinos arrived from South Africa, part of efforts to expand the species’ range. For now, the rhinos remain in a temporary enclosure visible from the crater’s rim as they adjust to their new home, though they’ll eventually roam free in the crater, joining the black rhinos — as well as the lions, elephants, hippos, buffalo and flamingos.”
On their rest days in Arusha, Tanzania, participants on the Tour d’Afrique typically set out for safaris into Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti. There is nothing quite like seeing a hippo or a giraffe or elephant up close!
We’d love to hear from you. Leave a comment and tell us what destinations the NYT list missed and what destinations should TDA visit next?
]]>
We recently looked at which TDA cycling tours were on the menu for the remainder of 2025 but we now wanted to look ahead to 2026 and preview our offerings for that calendar year. The 12 tours, including 2 brand new cycling adventures, cover 47 countries: India, Sri Lanka, Egypt, Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Morocco, Greece, Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia, Croatia, Slovenia, Italy, Austria, Germany, Netherlands, South Korea, Japan, Ireland, Scotland, England, France, Belgium, Denmark, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Chile, Finland, Sweden, Norway, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Türkiye, Vietnam, Laos, & Thailand. Wow!!
January
Tea Route (New): Kochi – Colombo
The year 2026 starts off with a bang as we launch the Tea Route, our new tour through Southern India and Sri Lanka! Riders will discover ancient ruins, stunning beaches, historic temples, incredible wildlife and much, much more. Spaces available for both 2026 & 2028.
Tour d’Afrique: Cairo – Cape Town
Later in January, our flagship cycling expedition, the Tour d’Afrique, departs from Cairo, Egypt and heads south towards Cape Town. The 3 month cross Africa adventure now includes a new country, Zimbabwe! Limited spaces for this legendary journey are still available for 2026 & 2027.
April
Morocco: Kingdom of the West: Casablanca – Casablanca
In April, the 3rd edition of our exciting Morocco: Kingdom of the West cycling adventure, a 2500 km loop through this country’s varied landscapes and vibrant cultures, begins in Casablanca. Explore the blue-washed town of Chefchaouen, the Imperial City of Fez, the Dunes at Merzouga and the Souks of Marrakesh. Spaces are still available for 2026 & 2028.
May
The Odyssey: Athens – Amsterdam
This incredible European adventure, The Odyssey, returns after a 3 year absence, allowing cyclists to experience a ride from the mountains and monasteries of Greece, through the fascinating Balkan region and then along the famous Rhine River before arriving in lively Amsterdam. Just a few spots left for this one!
Journey to the East: Seoul – Sapporo
Take your very own cycling adventure through 2 of East Asia’s most intriguing countries. The Journey to the East begins in South Korea, which will surprise you with its unique culture and undiscovered history, before moving to Japan where cyclists will marvel at the country’s beautiful temples and stunning scenery. Registration is now open for both 2026 and 2028.
The month of May comes to a close with eager cyclists raising a glass to toast the start of the Pub Ride in Dublin, Ireland! Their journey in search of the perfect pint will take them through Ireland, Northern Ireland, Scotland, England, France, Belgium, Germany and Denmark, each renown for their brews. Very limited spaces available for 2026. Registration now open for 2027.
June
South American Epic: Cartagena – Ushuaia
The month of June features the South American Epic. Fast becoming one of cycling’s ‘must-do’ adventures, this 5 1/2 month, 13,255 km journey through 6 South American countries offers riders a challenge like no other. Can’t manage to convince the boss to give you that much time off? No worries, there are 9 sections ranging from 2 weeks to a month long for you to sample. Limited spaces available.
July
Road to Valhalla (NEW): Helsinki – Trondheim
Who doesn’t like Vikings?! Join us on an epic cycling journey following in the footsteps of those Nordic adventurers – The Road to Valhalla. The route takes you from Helsinki, Finland, over the idyllic Åland Islands, to Stockholm and Gothenburg in Sweden and then on to the stunning mountains and fjords of Norway. We think Eric the Red would be proud! Registration now open.
Orient Express: Paris – Istanbul
The Orient Express, crossing Europe from Paris to Istanbul, was TDA Global Cycling’s second tour ever, way back in 2005 and remains one of our most popular rides. With good reason! French vineyards. Medieval German villages. The Danube Cycleway. Vienna. Budapest. The Romania region of Transylvania. Rural Bulgaria. Turkish Coffee. Spaces are available for the 2026 ride.
August
Cape to Kili: Cape Town – Kilimanjaro
The third edition of our southern African expedition, the Cape to Kili adventure, takes place this month, bringing riders north from Cape Town to their final destination near iconic Mt Kilimanjaro. It includes a new route through the country of Zimbabwe with an extended stay at the legendary Victoria Falls. Registration is now open.
September
The Viva Italia, a loop from Rome to Rome through the charming Italian countryside and the spectacular islands of Corsica, Sardinia and Sicily, returns in September. In this case, all roads really do lead to Rome! Benvenuto. Registration is now open.
October
Bamboo Road: Hanoi – Singapore
The last, but certainly not least, TDA tour in 2026, the Bamboo Road, begins in Hanoi, the Grande Dame of Southeast Asian cities. The route leads the riders through Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Malaysia before finishing in the modern city-state of Singapore. Spaces are still available for both 2026 & 2028.
]]>
In the midst of a cold, snowy (read traditional) Canadian winter, we wanted to take a look at the 11 tours that are ‘on tap’ for the rest of the year as the weather ever so slowly warms up.
April
Road Of Empires (Sold Out): Seville – Syracuse
Cheer up! Although our inaugural tour through Spain, Algeria, Tunisia & Sicily has long been sold out, we have recently added the 2027 Road of Empires to our calendar and registration will open up in May. Email us if you are interested in the 2027 tour.
We are very excited to be running the first edition of our Olive Route Cycling Tour through Greece, Italy, France, Spain & Portugal. Very limited spaces are available for the full tour and the first 2 sections (Athens – Milan & Milan – Bordeaux).
May
Journey to the East: Seoul – Sapporo
Our very popular trip through Korea and Japan begins in just over 2 months and there is still time to join us on an adventure one rider called “a home run!” Too soon? No worries. Registration for the 2026 Journey to the East is now open.
Magical Madagascar: Ifaty to Antsiranana
Going, going, gone! This is your last chance (for the foreseeable future) to cycle the magical island of Madagascar with us. After the 2025 edition, this tour is going to be shelved in our archives. Spaces are still available!
June
While the full tour (Beijing – Istanbul) is sold out, there are spaces available for the following sections: Beijing – Ulan Bator, Ulan Bator – Ulan Bator (Mongolia loop), Tbilisi – Erzurum or Erzurum – Istanbul. Want to do the full tour? Registration is now open for the 2027 Silk Route.
July
North American Epic: Tuktoyaktuk – Panama City
The South American Epic’s sister expedition, the North American Epic will begin on the shores of the Arctic Ocean on July 10th, finishing in Panama City just over 5 months later. Choose from sections in Canada’s far north, America’s heartland or Central America’s rainforests. Your next chance will not be until 2028!
Trans- Europa: Tallinn – Gibraltar
Searching for a relaxing cycle tour in Europe this summer? Look no further! Our Trans-Europa offers you a chance to discover hidden treasures along the Riviera or pedal through the beautiful Provence region of Southern France.
August
Trans-Himalaya (Sold Out): Srinagar – Kathmandu
The month of August brings adventure, starting with the sold-out Trans-Himalaya (Waitlist is still open) taking riders over stunning mountain passes that top out at 5,000m and through historic Indian hill stations on the way to legendary Kathmandu. The good news is that there are still spaces open for the 2027 Himalayan adventure.
Tour d’Afrique Cape To Kili: Cape Town – Kilimanjaro (Moshi)
The fun continues later in the month with the second edition of our newest African cycling challenge, the Cape to Kili expedition. For the 2025 adventure we have added a new country to the mix, Zimbabwe! Registration is also open for the 2026 tour.
October
Island Hopping Japan: Osaka – Okinawa
Our newest offering in Japan, Island Hopping Japan takes riders on a 6 week cycling odyssey through 7 of the country’s numerous islands; from Osaka on the island of Honshu south to the tropical vibes of Okinawa. Due to it’s popularity, we have added a 2027 version of this amazing journey.
Golden Buddha Ride: Saigon – Bangkok
The last, but definitely not least, TDA tour in 2025, the Golden Buddha Ride, explores the beautiful Southeast Asian countries of Vietnam, Laos & Thailand on a two-wheeled quest for the fabled Golden Buddha. Escape the cold and join us in the warmth and sunshine! This tour will also be offered in 2027.
]]>
Kody Block is the Content Creator for the 2024 Trans-Oceania Cycling Tour.
Back in 2019, Lonely Planet described Tasmania as “wild, weird, and wonderful” – a landmass of 68,401 square kilometers off the southeastern coast of mainland Australia. They called it “Australia’s best-kept secret, a natural haven for adventurers, artists, and lovers of the unexplored.”
As we dropped anchor in Devonport, Tasmania, it seemed that those words suddenly came to life. We were greeted by a distinct chill in the air and surrounded by dark, hilly forests – it felt like a world of its own. In the two weeks since then we’ve cycled 911 km from east to west, immersing ourselves in Tasmania’s history, and landscape. Reflecting on these weeks, I struggled to pinpoint exactly what makes Tasmania so unique – a major draw for many riders on our Trans-Oceania journey. To help, I asked some fellow cyclists for their thoughts.
Kristen on the road
One of our riders, Kristen Mueller, said, “It feels more remote than the previous section. The roads are less busy, the towns are fewer and smaller. There is nothing flashy or overtly modern about Tasmania – you could easily imagine turning the clock back 20+ years and I am not sure it would be much different.” Kristen’s reflections resonate deeply with me. Every day here feels like stepping back in time. The buildings stand on their original foundations, and the towns remain largely untouched. It reminds me of a quote from one of my favourite movies, The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, where Sean Penn’s character says, “Beautiful things don’t ask for attention.” That’s Tasmania: a place that remains beautifully original, with no rush to conform to modernity.
Tristan smiling
The people here embrace this timeless essence. Many relocate from mainland Australia to Tasmania’s remote wilderness, seeking refuge from the daily demands of life. Our tour mechanic, Tristin Walker, once lived in Derby (/ˈdɑːr.bi/), a town in Tasmania famous for its mountain biking trails. He said, “Tasmania has captured my heart, even as an Australian, every time I come here I am inspired, humbled, and blown away. It will take your breath away multiple times a day, with varying landscapes, animals, and people. From craggy mountains to pristine beaches, it has so much to offer nature lovers. With boundless outdoors to escape into, it keeps you wanting to come back for more.”
In such a short time, we’ve seen beaches, mountains, rolling green fields, wildflowers, craggy peaks, rain, sunshine – and lots of wind! The headwinds have been challenging lately and I’m confident our strong, determined group of cyclists would agree. One cyclist, Helen Smith, shared that, “Cycling has enabled me to stop and admire the beautiful scenery — the mountains, blue lakes, forests, and wildlife. Where else can I stop halfway up a hill to watch an echidna wander across the road in front of me? The hills and weather have been a challenge. It’s easy to forget that you’re actually in a rainforest until it gives you a rather wet reminder!”
Perhaps American poet Ernest Hemingway said it best, “Tasmania is an island of surprises — of dark forests and rushing rivers, of mountain ranges craggy and sheer, of sun-soaked valleys and secluded beaches. It is a place where the world slows down, and nature is ever-present.” Tasmania has certainly slowed life down for me and when we depart from Devonport to the mainland in 3 days time, remembering to slow down and appreciate the world around me is what I’m taking with me. If you’re feeling keen, maybe that’s a lesson you can take with you, too.
RELATED
TOUR
]]>
“As I sat in a restaurant on the outskirts of the city… I watched as thousands of cyclists of all ages and styles passed in front of my eyes – a sea of cyclists. Street vendors were all selling bike gear – helmets, sunglasses and uniforms. Everything was about cycling. I had never even dreamed of anything like that, but once one of our Dutch riders told me that he also had never witnessed anything similar, I realized that what I was seeing was absolutely unique.“
– from Colombia’s Crazy Cycling Culture, 2017
I remember reading this blog by Cristiano, our South America Head of Operations, and thinking it all sounded quite cool but it wasn’t until I experienced this myself in July that I could truly appreciate what he was saying. Cycling into Bogota on a Sunday means joining a river of local cyclists who are out enjoying the quieter weekend traffic. It reminded me of being at a bike race where all you see are cyclists in every direction – but this was a public road on the outskirts of a massive city where it felt as if cyclists had simply taken over the streets.
Up into Bogota
While participating in this year’s South American Epic, I chose to tackle this big climb into Bogota. Cristiano had mentioned it was a ‘classic’ route for local cyclists. Starting from La Vega, you almost immediately start climbing and it doesn’t relent for 25 km during which you ascend 1600m. I did see a lot of cyclists on the climb and it was exciting to be amongst the local crowd enjoying their weekend ride but as I reached the summit the true scale of the local cycling scene became apparent.
Shanny at the top of the climb
It isn’t just Bogota – each day in every place across Colombia we saw cyclists. The range of riders was extremely wide – women and men of all ages chugging uphill on knobby-tired mountain bikes or whizzing down another hill on slick carbon racing machines (there is only uphill or downhill in Colombia, nothing is flat!). Some were in serious looking pelotons and others were in pods of one or two friends, out to enjoy themselves at a more moderate pace. Some wore sleek and flashy cycling kits, others were in baggy shorts, but everyone was just there to ride.
Especially on the weekends, even in the more remote or rural areas we passed through like Elias and the southern city of Pasto, we saw many cyclists out enjoying the natural beauty of their country and the natural challenge of the climbs in the Andes. If the mountains in Ethiopia and Kenya created a running culture, they have certainly created a cycling culture in Colombia.
“Riding on rural climbs, it is common to see local cyclists in pro gear training on the climbs, stopping to watch the Tour de France at a local cafe, then climbing another mountain – perhaps we have seen the next Nairo Quintana or Rigoberto Uran…So it is safe to say, the Colombians love their bicycles, and for us riding on the tour, it makes us feel more welcome and slightly safer as we pedal across this cycling crazy nation.” – from ¡Mucho Gusto Colombia! Blog, 2017
“I haven’t been in any other country that has had such an avid cycling culture…everyone greets each other. Theres a real sorority/fraternity. The passion they have…all linked through cycling was tremendous.” -2024 South American Epic participant Tom Perlmutter
I was glad to have experienced Colombian cycling culture and hope I have a chance to return. In this video our Content Creator for the 2024 South American Epic sits down with some of the tour participants and a local cycling advocate to gain further insights into what the local culture is all about.
Have you been to an under-the-radar cycling destination? Tell us about a cycling-mad country you have visited in the comments below.
RELATED
TOUR
South American Epic
This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...
]]>
When I told the other staff at TDA about the bikepacking trip I had planned for this summer, they said “Oh, so it’s like The Odyssey”. They made this assumption since, like that tour, my route would also pass through the Balkan countries of Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro, and in my case, also Croatia. The two routes do in fact overlap, if only for just a few kilometres in the north of Montenegro.
But the route I had mapped out with my friend Alen, who is from Sarajevo, was really not similar at all to that of the TDA tour through the same region. Beginning from Sarajevo, we created an 1,100 km circle first heading south to the coast, briefly through Croatia, and then back north through Montenegro and back to Sarajevo. We spent a great deal of time piecing together two weeks of what we hoped would be a great combination of off-road riding. Since we are both mountain bikers, our preference is for narrow trails, and riding in the woods and mountains. And so while this region doesn’t have much singletrack to offer, we searched out the roughest and least used dirt trails, roads, and paths that we could find. And where we couldn’t find anything, we would reluctantly need to ride some paved roads as well.
Some of these we found by cutting out bits of other bikepacking routes that we found online, and others from heatmap logs of any one riding in the area, and in a few cases even just squinting really hard at satellite maps and hoping that a faint shadow was hiding some kind of passable route behind it. Some of this research led us to beautiful bits of doubletrack winding up and over mountains, but a couple of times we ended up on trails that were barely rideable, especially with bikes loaded down bags.
The riding, even on the nicest trails, was hard. Our average day was something like 60km with 2,000m of climbing. It also didn’t help that we began our trip just as a heat wave set in, with several days getting close to 40 degrees. Even with three litres of water capacity on each of our bikes, we still would need to find water refills once or twice every day.
From the very first day, our ride became a game of trying to find the most scenic places to stop to make coffee, or have a beer or a meal. Our decision to bring folding chairs, and a coffee making setup consisting of pour over filters, a folding kettle, and a manual coffee grinder, really paid off.
A bikepacking trip involves so many decisions – not just the route, but also what to bring: what bike, what kind of bags, which tent, how much food, etc. After many hours spent discussing these choices, and a few last minute additions and subtractions, I have to say it all worked out very well. Our bikes – both Kona Units – were perfect. The comfortable position and wide 2.6″ tires had us frequently laughing out loud at how they took some of the hardest roads I’ve ever seen, and made them not only rideable, but fun. We were similarly pleased with the Tarptent Moment tents that we used. They aren’t the best in wind or rain, but in good weather, they set up with only one pole and two pegs in under five minutes. When you are setting up and taking down your tent every day, especially after twelve or more hours in the saddle, every bit helps.
Almost from the very first day of our ride, Alen and I remarked on how this part of the world is so well suited to bikepacking. While the paved roads are often narrow, and the traffic not especially welcoming to cyclists, there are smaller dirt roads and tracks all over the place. While these are often very rough and incredibly steep, if you are up for the challenge, there is some fantastic riding to be found here. And the many peaks of the Dinaric Alps are just small enough that it is feasible to ride up and over a different mountain every day or two. With careful planning, it is even possible to ride much of the area without needing to camp, as there are small hotels and other accommodations available in many places.
So was this ride ‘like the Odyssey’? I don’t think so. But maybe this can serve as some inspiration to the riders of the next Odyssey in 2026 – if you find yourself riding up and maybe cursing one of the many steep climbs of that tour, just imagine that you could be on a trail twice as steep on gravel made of rocks the size of your fists!
RELATED
TOUR
The Odyssey
The original Odyssey by Homer followed Ulysses, King of Ithaca, on his grueling ten year trip home from the Trojan War during which he faced and...
]]>
The Australian island of Tasmania is quickly gaining a reputation as a cyclist’s paradise – from cross country to downhill, to relaxing rides along quiet country roads with scenic coastal views. Lightly-trafficked roads in good condition provide a great network to explore the entire island.
While you are happily pedalling along – on your own or as part of the Trans-Oceania Cycling Tour – be aware that Tasmania has a lot more to offer riders than just ideal cycling conditions.
1. Wildlife – Tigers, Devils, Wombats & Wallabies
With fewer introduced predators and a relatively large amount of intact habitat, Tasmania is a haven for wildlife and has some animals that are found nowhere else on earth. Cyclists will have a good chance of seeing some of these while pedalling along the roads, save perhaps the semi-mythical Tasmanian Tiger. The Tasmanian Devil, the world’s largest carnivorous marsupial, is unique to the island. It has fearsome teeth and powerful jaws which combined with its famous bad temper and spine-chilling screeches, certainly lives up to its name. Another singular Tasmanian animal is the Pademelon, a small marsupial related to the kangaroo. They are distinguished from their more famous cousins by their shorter, thicker, and sparsely haired tails. Then there is the Quoll, a carnivorous marsupial native to mainland Australia, New Guinea and Tasmania. The island is home to the Eastern Quoll where it can be found in rainforests & alpine areas. Incredibly you may also see penguins, mutton birds, wombats, dolphins, koalas, kangaroos, echidnas, possums, wallabies, bandicoots, platypus & whales!
2. Colonial History
Richmond Bridge, Richmond
Tasmania is named after Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, who made the first reported European sighting of the island on 24 November 1642. Its colonial history is harsh and dark and includes the genocide of the original Aboriginal inhabitants. The island was permanently settled by Europeans in 1803 as a penal settlement of the British Empire and over 75,000 convicts were sent there until the practice ended in 1853. Free settlers were attracted by the offer of unpaid prison labour and land grants. A visit to the Port Arthur Historic Site reveals the depressing scope of the colonial prison system – the sombre ruins are a reminder of the convict-labour industries which included timber, milling, ship-building and coal mining. Many bridges were also constructed by prisoners across the island including the one in Richmond, a major town in the incarceration and slave labor of convicts. This one was built in 1823 making it the oldest bridge in Australia and is reputedly haunted by the ghost of George Grover, a convict who was thrown off the bridge to his death in 1832. His ghost has been seen pacing the length of the bridge and hovering in the trees on the west bank of the river. Witnesses say they can feel the intensity of his anger.
3. Wine, Whiskey & Beer
Vineyards, Tasmania
Many people know Australia as the source of some incredible wines, especially bold, juicy Shiraz but not everyone realizes that Tasmania was one of the earliest regions in the country to be planted with vines. In fact, some cuttings from the island were used to start vineyards in Victoria and South Australia. The island’s cooler climate produces some lovely Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. For those more interested in spirits, Tasmania has some wonderful whiskeys. Despite production being banned until 1992, in 2014 Hobart’s Sullivan’s Cove’s French Oak Cask variety was judged the best single malt whiskey in the world. Riders can follow the Whiskey Trail around the island. Beer loving cyclists are in for a treat. Traditionally, Tasmania had 2 main breweries – Boags in Launceston and Cascade (Australia’s oldest brewery) in Hobart. These days the craft beer scene is exploding and riders can check out such standout microbreweries as Seven Sheds in Railton or T-Bone Brewing in Hobart. One classic bike/beer experience is to tackle the challenging climb up to Weldborough and then sample the dozens of local craft beers available at the historic pub in town. Fortunately the hotel has rooms for those cyclists who may have tried a few too many.
4. Hobart
Hobart marina
This city has come a long way from its founding in 1804 when it was a collection of tents and huts, its population consisted of 178 convicts, 25 Royal Navy marines, 15 women, 21 children, 13 free settlers, and 10 civil officers. It is now home to over 40% of Tasmania’s population and its streets are lined with classical examples of Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian architecture. Its attractive waterfront is lined with pubs, restaurants and cafes and is the site for many popular festivals. Cyclists can pedal through the city stopping to visit attractions like the Cascades Female Factory Historic Site where colonial Hobart’s female convicts were held (1 in 4 prisoners sent to Tasmania were women) or spin out to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens, home to over 6000 exotic and native plants species. There is also a wonderful cycling path, the Intercity Cycleway, running along an abandoned railway line from the city northwards to the exquisite Museum of Old & New Art (MONA). After all that activity, riders will be more than eager to explore the city’s exciting craft beer scene, stopping to sample the brews at the Hobart Brewing Company or Shambles Brewery.
5. Arts & Culture
Museum of Old & New Art, Hobart
Tasmania is blessed with some wonderful galleries, festivals and museums. Perhaps the most incredible is Hobart’s Museum of Old & New Art (MONA). The largest privately funded museum in the Southern Hemisphere, it has been described as a “subversive adult Disneyland.” Exhibits include Wim Delvoye’s ‘Cloaca Professional’, a machine which replicates the human digestive system and turns food into faeces, excreting it daily. Another must-see destination would be the small town of Sheffield. It reinvented itself in the 1990’s as an arts hub by encouraging residents to paint large scale murals. There are now more than 50 examples around the town and it hosts an annual mural painting festival. The Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery (QVMAG), in Launceston is situated in both an 1870s era railway workshop and an 1891 Royal Park Art Gallery building. You can see dinosaurs, death masks, planes soaring above, and artefacts from Australia’s oldest merchant shipwreck. Or join the locals in experiencing Aussie Rules Football when the North Melbourne Kangaroos play in Hobart or the Hawthorn Hawks visit Launceston’s Aurora stadium.
6. Historic Railways
Railway enthusiasts might regret both the end of Hobart’s unique double decker tram network in 1960 and the cessation of all rail service in 1970 but, happily, Tasmania is still blessed with a couple historic train lines. The small west coast town of Tullah (Aboriginal meaning ‘meeting of 2 rivers’) is the location of the Wee Georgie Wood Steam Railway. In the past the only way to get to Tullah from its founding in 1900 until 1961 was on a narrow gauge railway. Now you can take a 20 minute ride through the area’s stunning temperate rainforest pulled by an authentic 1924 steam engine. Just under 60 km further south, riders will discover the West Coast Wilderness Railway. Running through breathtaking rainforests and over 40 bridges, it runs between Queenstown and Strahan. Built in 1896 for the Mt Lyell Mining Company, the original railway closed in 1963 but restoration began in 2002 and in 2014 operations were restored along the complete original route.
RELATED
TOUR
If you find yourself in Lima, Peru, either as a participant in our South American Epic Cycling Expedition or just on your own, you will likely head out to see the city’s famous sights – the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, the Museo de Arte de Lima and the Plaza de Armas. They are certainly worth a visit but dig a little deeper and you will find some more, rather unusual attractions that are worth checking out.
Mercado de Brujas (Witches’ Market)
This unusual market is situated just outside the Gamarra train station. Once you get past the mediums offering readings and treatments, the vendors selling python skins, the witch doctors, the healers, the snake oil salesmen and the live animal market you will have the opportunity to buy palo santo, dried llama fetus, divination cards, charms, soaps, perfumes, crystals and all sorts of things to ward off evil and to attract good fortune. Or perhaps you would prefer something to drink? How about a potion that is made with a live frog plucked from a fish tank, plus pollen, coca, quail egg, honey, a fruit called noni and agorrobina, a syrup made from the black carob tree? Whatever ails you, the witches’ market is bound to have a folk remedy that claims to cure it.
Bosque el Olivar (Olive Grove Forest)
In 1560, not long after the fall of the Inca Empire, Spaniard Antonio de Rivera sailed from Sevilla, Spain, to Lima, Peru with over 100 olive plants. Only 3 survived the voyage but they thrived in the mild climate and by the time Peru gained independence in 1821, they had grown to over 3,000 trees! During the Peruvian War of Independence (1811-1826), the grove suffered badly, mainly at the hands of some departing Spaniards who chopped down and generally mutilated many of the olive trees. However, many of the trees in the grove, Bosque el Olivar, survived and about 1700 still exist today. It features, in addition to the olive trees, 44 species of trees and more than 20 species of birds, including scarlet flycatchers, blue-gray tanagers and Harris’s hawks. The olives are still harvested and distributed throughout the neighbourhood.
Expreso Virgen de Guadalupe
Wandering aimlessly through Lima’s chaotic streets the smell of coffee might lead you to the Expreso Virgen de Guadalupe, an old rail car now transformed into a cafe, serving delicious coffee and light meals. Built in Britain in the 1870’s the car was used on the Lima to Guadalupe route until the late 1990’s before being auctioned off and transformed into a cafe. It features polished pine and rosewood, elegant stained-glass windows and fin-de-siècle light fixtures. You can also enjoy your java on the adjoining patio and on the weekends there is often live music.
Abtao Submarine Museum
Always wanted to captain a submarine? Well, here is your chance. Hop aboard the BAP Abtao (SS-42) down by the harbour in Lima and give it a shot. The sub was in service with the Peruvian Navy for 48 years before being turned into South America’s first floating museum. There are no stairs and you enter and exit using vertical ladders. A special sound and light system combined with the ability to pull levers, raise periscopes and turn dials and the gentle roll of the harbour waves makes the experience come to life. You can also use the cannon on deck, or simply enjoy the view of the port of Callao from the submarine. Be aware, the tours are in Spanish only.
Paddington Bear of Lima
Credit: Art DiNo CC BY-SA 2.0
Not many people know the connection between Paddington Bear and Peru – I sure did not! As we all know, Paddington Bear was found at Paddington railway station in London by the Brown family, sitting on his suitcase with a note attached to his coat that reads “Please look after this bear. Thank you.” What you may not realize is that he arrived there as a stowaway coming from “Darkest Peru”, sent by his Aunt Lucy who had gone to live in the Home for Retired Bears in Lima. In fact, Paddington’s real Peruvian name is Pastuso. Located in Parque Salazar along the Miraflores Boardwalk, looking out over the Bay of Santander, this statue was unveiled in 2015 to commemorate the strong ties between the UK and Peru.
RELATED
TOUR
South American Epic
This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...
Bruges, with its canals, cobbled streets and medieval buildings, is the perfect spot for a day off, be it on our Pub Ride Cycling Tour or on your very own bicycle adventure in Europe. Here are our top ten things to do in Bruges.
1. Lumina Domestica – Let There be Light
Once you get tired of visiting the city’s seemingly endless supply of chocolate museums, wander over to the Lumina Domestica (The Lamp Museum) whose collection of over 6,000 lamps is meant to illustrate “more than 400,000 years of humans’ battle against darkness.” It is not just lamps. You can also discover the mysteries of the glow-worm and the lantern fish! It is not everyone’s cup of tea – “Truly bizarre place that looks like a hoarder’s garage. The creepy, random mannequins will haunt your dreams.”
2. Smedenpoort Skull – Head’s Up
Bruges has 4 surviving medieval gates but it is the Smedenpoort or “Blacksmith’s Gate, that is the most interesting. Look up. What do you see? Yup, that is a human skull attached to the yellow brick walls (OK, it is now a replica but you can still see the original at the city’s Archaeological Museum). A local politician, François van der Straeten, made the mistake of siding with attacking French troops in 1691. When his activities came to light, he was hanged and his head was dipped in bronze and then hung from an iron pin on the gate.
3. The Lucifernum – Enter If You Dare
Run by a self-described vampire, Don “Willy” Retsin, this bar/museum/art gallery comes complete with a Gothic cemetery in a subtropic garden and is located in an old Freemasons temple (1756 – 1882). Occasionally, he opens the doors of his repurposed Masonic Lodge to wild parties among the strange portraits and curious artifacts he has accumulated. One recent visitor mused “Having travelled the world for quite a few years, this is the most weird experience of all. Is it a bar, an exhibition or just a weird home of a strange man, I don’t know.”
4. Basilica of The Holy Blood – The Blood Of Jesus?
If you are devoutly religious, deeply skeptical or anywhere in between, a visit to this Basilica, home to a revered vial containing cloth stained with the actual blood of Christ (Or so it is believed!), is worth the effort. Try to arrive early in the morning before the crush of curious tourists arrive. The legend has it that Flemish Count Thierry of Alsace received the vial from the King of Jerusalem and that Jesus’ disciple Joseph of Arimathea, who had readied Christ’s body before burial, originally collected the blood.
5. House Bouchoute – The Answer My Friend Is Blowing In The Wind
One of the oldest buildings on Bruges’ beautiful main square, the House Bouchoute features an octagonal compass but this isn’t your typical compass. Instead of showing the magnetic North, it actually depicts the direction of the wind. It is linked to a rooftop weathervane. The instrument was installed in 1682 to inform traders on the square of the prevailing wind direction. In addition, on the roof there is a shiny ball which was used in combination with a “meridian line” (indicated by a series of bronze studs on the ground) to calibrate clocks.
6. Frietmuseum – And Don’t Hold The Mayo
It is fitting that the only museum dedicated to fries is located in Belgium. Despite being widely known as ‘French’ fries, this tasty treat was created in this country and is the national dish. In fact, from the Belgian standpoint the popularity of the term “french fries” is explained as a “French gastronomic hegemony” into which the cuisine of Belgium was assimilated because of a lack of understanding coupled with a shared language and geographic proximity of the countries. The museum traces the history of the fry, from Andean potatoes to Belgium’s iconic paper cones of crispy, hot pommes frites. Be sure not to miss the unique mobile of dangling tubers of various hues and sizes from around the world.
7. The Windmill Walk – Round & Round You Go
Four old, romantic looking windmills are still located alongside the old moat and medieval city gates on Bruges’ original city wall. Checking them out makes for a wonderful 7 km walk and you can even include the 4 remaining medieval city gates in your route. One of the windmills, the Sint Janshuysmill (built in the 1770s) still grinds grain to feed the local cattle and 2 others contain small museums. You will also enjoy great views of both the old city centre and the historic canal which is lined with colourful houseboats.
8. The Belfry – Up, Up & Away
For killer views, take on the 366 steps up to the top of the Belfry, a UNESCO Heritage Site. The 83 m high building formerly housed a treasury and the municipal archives, and served as an observation post for spotting fires and other dangers. In addition to the dazzling views over the city and the surrounding area, the belfry features 47 bells, together weighing about 27.5 tonnes. If you feel a little off balance at the top, it wasn’t just the climb up the narrow, steep, staircase. The tower actually leans 87 centimetres to the east.
9. Ostend – Seaside Getaway
Need a break? Ostend, with its sea-side esplanade, pier, and fine-sand beaches, is just a 15 minute train ride away. History buffs will be happy to find that near the beach is a well-preserved section of Hitler’s fortified Atlantic Wall, open to the public as the Atlantic Wall Open Air Museum while others can head to the Vissersplein, a car free zone with many bars where one can sit and enjoy a leisurely drink. You can also wander though the British-influenced Leopold Park and stop to check out the famous Floral Clock, created from 20,000 flowers and plants. The date, made entirely of flowers, is reset every day during the summer months.
10. Belgian Beer – 800 Varieties & Counting
Belgian beers are world famous…and rightly so! During the 15th century, when the city was at its most powerful, Bruges boasted no less than 54 breweries within its fortified walls. As the city’s economic power waned, so did its breweries. With Bourgogne des Flandres, De Halve Maan and Fort Lapin, Bruges today now has three working breweries. After a day sightseeing maybe head to Café Vlissinghe, founded way back in 1515. The cafe consists of two joined houses from the late 15th century. Enjoy your beer surrounded by history but be sure to bring cash. No bank or credit cards accepted.
RELATED
TOUR
Pub Ride
Over 5 weeks you will cycle from storied Dublin to the waterfront of Copenhagen. Through Ireland, Scotland, England, France, Belgium, The Netherlands...
One of Australia’s iconic routes is the Savannah Way – a 3700 km track from Broome in Western Australia to Cairns in tropical North Queensland. It passes through 15 National Parks and 5 World Heritage areas. Whether you are riding this on your own, with a group of friends or on the 2020 Trans-Oceania Cycling Adventure, you will be covering just over 2000 km from Katherine to Cairns.
>>RELATED POST: 8 Reasons to Cycle Darwin to Sydney
The ride itself will be intense and challenging! Depending on the route you choose, you will be rewarded with some incredible sights and experiences.
Mataranka Hot Springs – Land Of The Never Never
Mataranka Thermal Pool
Mataranka, which means ‘home of the snake’ in the Yangmanic language of the aboriginal people who inhabit the area, is a small town of just 350 souls. It is located about 100 km south of Katherine (birthplace of 2011 Tour de France winner Cadel Evans), and is best known for 2 reasons. First, it was the setting for one of the country’s most cherished books, We of the Never Never, Jeannie Gunn’s autobiographical account of her experiences in the outback in 1902. The homestead, which she shared with her husband, Aeneas Gunn, until his death, has been meticulously reconstructed near to the hot springs. A number of characters from the book are buried at the small bush Elsey Cemetery found around 12 km to the south of Mataranka on the Stuart Highway. Second, the nearby Elsey National Park contains the warm (34C), soothing, crystal clear, sandy bottomed Mataranka Thermal Pool. The area is a natural breeding ground for the Little Red Flying Fox. They roost during the day in the stands of bamboo, often in large numbers, and leave at night to feed on nectar from trees. There is also a cooler natural swimming hole, Stevie’s Hole, located nearby.
Limmen National Park – Lost Cities & Hungry Crocs
Southern Lost City, Limmen National Park,
This isolated National Park, the third largest in the Northern Territory, is famous for its spectacular sandstone formations, known, rather romantically, as the Lost Cities. The Southern Lost City is the result of thousands of years of wind and rain erosion. The walls, narrow passages and domes give the eerie impression that they were man made. Well marked walking trails allow you to wander through the bizarre sandstone pillars. The park itself covers almost 10,000 sq/km and incorporates wetlands and numerous rivers, including the Limmen Bight River, but swimmers should be aware of estuarine crocodiles in the waters. It might be better for them to wait until Butterfly Falls for a dip. The road through the park is unpaved and you may see the occasional wild buffalo crossing your path. In the morning you are sure to hear a chorus of birdsong as your prepare for the next day’s ride
Burketown – Cloud Surfing
If you are cycling through Burketown between August and September, look up…way up! You may be fortunate enough to see a very rare meteorological phenomenon – Morning Glory clouds. Shaped like tubes, these clouds usually appear in groups, can be up to 1000 km long, 2 km high, travel at 60 km/hr and may be only 200 m above the ground. While they have been spotted in other places around the world, it is here in the Gulf of Carpentaria that they are most frequent and predictable. These clouds have been sighted since ancient times. The local Garrawa Aboriginal people called them ‘kangólgi’. The exact nature of this complex atmospheric phenomenon is largely still a mystery. Local weather lore in the area suggests that when the fridges frost over and the café tables’ corners curl upwards at the historic Burketown Pub, there is enough moisture in the air for the clouds to form. Once that happens, track down a local glider pilot and get in some cloud surfing.
The Gulflander – From Nowhere To Nowhere
Normanton railway station with the Gulflander – The Tin Hare – rail-motor train ready to depart to Croyden.
Gold was the catalyst for the development of the railway from the bustling river port of Normanton to the rich gold fields of Croydon. In 1888 construction began on a submersible line in the fickle flood-prone terrain, using specially designed and patented steel railway ties. They were hollow and packed with mud to allow flood waters to flow over, leaving the track intact when they receded. Even today, over 100 years on, the majority of the original sleepers are still intact. Once a week the 1950’s rail car nicknamed the ‘Old Tin Hare’ will head off through savannah grass, billabongs and termite mounds, halting at colourful stops like Critters Camp, Blackbull and Timbercutters. The train staff will keep you entertained with trivia, species identification, amusing stories and colourful characters. Runs every week from Normanton to Croydon (Wednesday) and Croydon to Normanton (Thursday).
Undara Lava Tubes
Undara Volcanic National Park is certainly worth the quick 14 km detour off the main Savannah Way route. Here you can find the remains of the Earth’s longest flow of lava originating from a single volcanic crater – 160 km in length. In fact, the word Undara is aboriginal in origin and means ‘a long way’. The area features over 160 volcanoes, vents and cones. The activity that created the tubes took place about 189,000 years ago when the surface of the lava cooled while hot lava continued to move through the centre of the flows. Huge caves, some over 21m wide and up to 10m high, have formed along the tubes. For example, Bayliss Cave, 1,300 m long, 11 m high and 22 m wide, is what remains of a lava tube that was once over 100 kilometres long. It is a “bad air cave” with measured carbon dioxide levels as high as almost 6%! Despite that, the cave is home to 52 resident animal species making it one of the world’s most biologically diverse caves. Once back on the surface, you can search for minerals like topaz, moonstone, peridot, aquamarine, garnet, quartz and gold or, during the breeding season, watch micro-bats and night tigers (snakes) wage war at the edge of the surrounding caves. The snakes hang in the nearby trees and strike at the micro-bats as they pass into and out of the caves.
RELATED
TOUR
]]>
Ah, the tastes of South America! When people think of the food scene on that vast continent they generally picture ceviche and Pisco sours in Peru or steak and bold red wines in Argentina. There are, however, some other, less-known highlights of the culinary scene that one can visit, ideally while riding the South American Epic Cycling Expedition.
Here are 6 of my favourites:
KGB Cartagena, Colombia
Soviet KGB medal
Cartagena is well-known for its historic UNESCO World Heritage Sites, stunning colonial heritage and sun-soaked beaches but did you know that in the middle of the city’s Centro Historico, you can enjoy a drink or two surrounded by an extensive collection of KGB memorabilia? Look for the mural of Lenin on the outside. Inside? Kitsch galore! Soviet era cartoons and military parades on tap, guns, helmets, servers dressed as KBG officers and a back area made into a replica of the inside of a Soviet submarine. Crack open an authentic Baltika beer from the Motherland and enjoy the retro vibe.
La Puerta Falsa, Bogota, Colombia
Colombian tamale
After a day of exploring Bogota’s oldest neighbourhood, La Candelaria, be sure to slip into one of the city’s oldest and most traditional restaurants. La Puerta Falsa (The False Door), seats maybe 20, has been around for over 200 years and offers up a simple menu of tamales, bowls of ajiaco soup (chicken and potatoes) and chocolate completo, a traditional Colombian hot chocolate with cheese, buttered bread, and a biscuit. In fact, the late Anthony Bourdain choose to try the tamales at this hole in the wall and, as he sank his knife into a succulent Bogotá tamale, exclaimed it was a “thing of beauty.” High praise indeed!
Coca Museum, Cusco, Peru
Coca leaves in the market, Cusco, Peru
Of course, the first thing you think of when someone mentions Cusco, Peru is Machu Picchu! And you should certainly visit it while you are in the city. If you do have a spare hour or so, however, look for this small museum, located just off the main square. This strange but interesting place provides an exhaustive history of Coca, a sacred native Andean planet. The locals have used it for centuries, both for religious and nutritional reasons. Those of us in the west know it mainly as an original flavouring in Coca-Cola and the essential ingredient for the production of cocaine. In fact, the museum even shows you how to make the narcotic at home! You can learn the proper way to chew coca leaves (which might help the riders on the South American Epic deal with the next high altitude stretch) and purchase all sorts of coca products from the attached store. Just be aware that many countries will not let you cross a border with the vast majority of these items. If you run out of time, note that both Puno, Peru and La Paz, Bolivia have their own Coca Museums.
Guinea Pig Last Supper, Cusco, Peru
Cusco Cathedral, Cusco, Peru
The Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin, also known as Cusco Cathedral, is located on the city’s Plaza de Armas. Its construction took over a century (1560-1654) and this UNESCO World Heritage Site contains some of Peru’s finest colonial art. Amongst these treasures in an unexpected twist on classic religious iconography. Many artists have tried their hand at painting the Last Supper but in 1753 Marco Zapata, a Peruvian Quechua painter and member of the Cusco School (the tradition of teaching European art techniques in the Americas), portrayed Jesus and his disciples enjoying a local delicacy and an Incan food staple. In the centre of the table lies a cooked guinea pig, lying paws up on a plate. It is a mystery that this image was tolerated by the Catholic authorities, especially at the time of the Inquisition. In addition to the unusual main dish, the purple drink that the disciples have is not wine but instead a traditional Peruvian drink, chicha, which is made from maize.
Olive Grove Forest, San Isidro, Peru
In 1560, not long after the fall of the Inca Empire, Spaniard Antonio de Rivera sailed from Sevilla, Spain, to Lima, Peru with over 100 olive plants. Only 3 survived the voyage but they thrived in the mild climate and by the time Peru gained independence in 1821, they had grown to over 3,000 trees! During the Peruvian War of Independence (1811-1826), the grove suffered badly, mainly at the hands of some departing Spaniards who chopped down and generally mutilated many of the olive trees. However, many of the trees in the grove, Bosque el Olivar, survived and about 1700 still exist today. In the 1920’s the area was subdivided for housing and the new owners integrated the existing olive trees into their front and back yards. Today it is a charming park just 6 km from downtown Lima. It features, in addition to the olive trees, 44 species of trees and more than 20 species of birds, including scarlet flycatchers, blue-gray tanagers and Harris’s hawks. The olives are still harvested and distributed throughout the neighbourhood.
Glaciobar, El Calafate, Argentina
Perhaps you have tried Iceberg Vodka, a Canadian spirit produced using water from icebergs harvested off the coast of Newfoundland? Perhaps, but have you enjoyed a tipple at the world’s only bar made completely from glacial ice? If you make it to the southern Argentinian town of El Calafate, be sure to head out to the Glaciarium, a modern glacier interpretation centre, located about four miles out of town, just off the road that leads out to the Perito Moreno Glacier. In addition to its informative multimedia exhibitions explaining how ice is formed and how glaciers move and shape their surroundings, the building hosts the Glaciobar, the world’s only bar made completely from glacial ice, including the seats, tables, and the glasses. Capes, gloves and boots are provided but your stay is limited to 20 minutes. It is not everyone’s cup of tea – one reviewer wrote – “In the museum is an ‘ice bar’ which is tantamount to a big industrial freezer where, after paying to enter, you can drink all you want for 20 minutes. Better to go to a restaurant and ask for a cold mug of beer.”
RELATED
TOUR
South American Epic
This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...
South America is on many of our life long bucket lists of places to visit. We have created the perfect section for those who can’t do the whole 5 1/2 month long South American Epic Cycling Expedition but want to experience the culture, see some sights, challenge themselves and walk away feeling like they accomplished something amazing!
Here are five reasons to cycle The Gringo Trail from Lima to Cusco in Peru.
1 – Not Your Typical Gringo
Not actual TDA rider
Riding your bike through South America is definitely not the usual way people do their trips. More often then not you see the photos your friends posted on social media enjoying themselves on the beach, wearing flip flops with golden tans and a spectacular view in the background. That’s all well and nice but why not do things a little differently. If you are thinking about embarking on The Gringo Trail section of the South American Epic then your photos could look a little more like this.
2 – Two Big Bucket List Sights
Nazca Hummingbird
Machu Picchu
If you embark on this journey you will finally get the chance to visit the royal estate of Machu Picchu and the mysterious Nazca Lines in the Nazca desert. We have written about these beautiful and historic places before but The Gringo Trail is an ideal choice if those are some of your top South America destinations.
3 – Get The Strongest You’ve Ever Been, Thanks To The Andes
Not actual TDA riders
The Andes mountains are no joke when it comes to climbing. The Gringo Trail will get you a hefty taste of what it’s like to cycle the highest mountain range outside of Asia. What this means is you will never look at a tiny hill the same again, you wont be afraid of any other climb you encounter and you might even leave with rock hard legs of steel (legs of steel are not guaranteed).
4 – Lima’s Puente De Los Suspiros (Translated, The Bridge Of Sighs)
Not actual bridge
This landmark bridge is located in the bohemian Barranco district of Lima. It’s said to be the most romantic district in Lima, drawing in lovers, poets and musicians to the area. The bridge was built with a simple intention, to cross the Bajada de los Baños which leads locals and visitors to the beautiful views of the Pacific. Over the years it’s reputation started to build as a magical place to visit. It’s said that if you hold your breath while crossing over it all your life long wishes will come true (or so they say…)
5 – Sea Lions
Not a real Sea Lion.
Have you ever seen a sea lion in the wild? If you have then you might have noticed how much they look very similar to your neighbours dog, the Labrador. They not only look like mans best friend they really do have multiple similarities. These magnificent animals have the ability to walk on all fours, have short, thick hair, and big belly’s filled with food. If you are lucky you might have the chance to see these dog like creatures multiple times on the tour. Though, instead of stopping to give them a pet along the way, we would advise you to admire them from afar. They tend to be slightly more grumpy then the Labrador we all know and love, after all they do have to hunt for all their own food.
RELATED
TOUR
South American Epic
This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...
We have been talking a lot lately about the South American Epic. It is our longest tour by number of days but we can’t forget that many people will be signing up for two and three week sections of this 5+ month tour. So for those of you starting or ending your South American Epic in Bogota, you might be planning to spend a bit more time in the country and we have some suggestions for you.
With the peace agreement that was signed three years ago tourism has continued to increase in Colombia. It’s no longer just hotspots and UNESCO world heritage site like Cartagena and San Augustin (which we did feature recently as well) but much more of Colombia’s vast natural environments – some of which were recently occupied by FARC – are now becoming safe and more accessible.
>>RELATED POST: Is Colombia Safe for Cycling?
I was recently invited to see some of these newly opened regions by the Colombian tourism board – ProColombia. While none of these regions are on the route of the South American Epic, I thought I’d share with you what I found in hopes that some of our participants of Undiscovered Country and Coffee & Cocoa would consider checking this out before or after their cycling adventure with us (and even full tour riders who plan to arrive early to Cartagena). Domestic flights can get you quite easily to the regions I discuss below from Cartagena and Bogota and local tour operators (two suggested below) would be happy to create an itinerary for you.
Overflight of Chiribiquete National Park
Chiribiquete is the largest national park in Colombia and the largest tropical rainforest national park in the world. It is also unique because most travellers are not allowed to enter the park at all. 
In the past decades, even as FARC guerrillas controlled this region, the government worked with conservationists to expand the park and restrict access to protect tribes within the park who had chosen to remain apart from the modern world. Fascinating stuff – read more about it here.
So for tourists like us, the way to see it is from the air on overflights organized by local tour operators. The flight gives you an amazing perspective – lush jungle, winding rivers, and dramatic rock formations called Tepui.
Swimming with Pink River Dolphins
From the town of San Jose del Guaviare we followed the Guaviare River to Damas del Nare – a lake occupied by 8 – 10 river dolphins. Apparently it is rare that these dolphins will stay in one area very long, but this group must like the local cuisine as they have been around for years and it is now a tourist attraction. The operators are careful to limit the number of visits by tourists and warned swimmers to remove sunscreen as not to pollute the water. To be honest these are the ugly cousins of bottle-nosed ocean dwelling dolphins, but its a really curious experience none the less – and a great excuse to explore the rivers, lagoons, and people that live in the area and operate these tours.
Hiking in the Jungle to Puerta de Orion
Puerta de Orion (shown in the lead photo of this blog) means ‘Gate of Orion’ and at just the right angle at the right time of the year Orion’s belt is perfectly centred in the hole in the rock and creates a beam of light in the darkness (so they say). But at anytime, taking the stroll through the jungle to reach this point is full of local knowledge shared by local guides on the plant life, and wildlife that inhabit the area (ants that can stitch wounds, plants that react to touch, plants that cure and plants that kill, and much more).
Further alone the trail, we came to Rio La Macarenia with its pink river flowers (macarenas clavijeras). At different times of the year the flowers are different colours. On our walk they were a pale pink growing on the rock bed of the river and bobbing with the water that rushes overtop of them. It was quite lovely. They could be clearly seen through the crystal clear river.
Witnessing Ancient Art on Ruta Rupestre
One day we did a 5 km walk uphill in dense jungle to see these incredible rock paintings which are only recently being properly protected, documented and tested to find out exactly how old they are. Even without ancient rock art the scenery was stunning, and the thick foliage, thick air, knotted vines, and green canopy of the jungle made for an eye opening experience for a northern climate dweller like myself.
RELATED
TOUR
South American Epic
This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...
Learning What Coca Farmers are Doing Since the Peace Agreement
Probably my favourite part of all the activities we did was meeting Edilson and learning about how he has turned from being part of the illicit cocaine production system, to being a strong anti-drug advocate. Tourism has also been a big part of what people hope will make the peace agreement long lasting. Edilson can now invite people to his farm from all over the world to see what he used to do, what he is doing now, and meet some of his rescued animals like the ones pictured below.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B3Qz-ignD47/
Thanks very much to ProColombia for bringing me to see these fascinating places. Thanks also to Colombia Oculta for the overflight of Chiribiquete and Frontera Travel for all the rest of the experiences on my list above.
]]>
Do you love history, archeology, architecture and culture? Well, duh, of course! Then you should absolutely cycle the South American Epic in 2020. It will give you the opportunity to experience 9 UNESCO World Heritage sites; from mysterious megalithic sculptures in the jungles of Colombia to massive icebergs calving off the face of glaciers in Patagonia.
1. Port, Fortresses & Group of Monuments in Cartagena, Colombia
Bocachica Fort, Cartagena
“Situated in a bay in the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena has the most extensive fortifications in South America. A system of zones divides the city into three neighbourhoods: San Pedro, with the cathedral and many Andalusian-style palaces; San Diego, where merchants and the middle class lived; and Gethsemani, the ‘popular quarter’.” – UNESCO
2. San Agustin Archaeological Park, Colombia
Sculpture, San Agustin Archeological Park
“The largest group of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures in South America stands in a wild, spectacular landscape. Gods and mythical animals are skilfully represented in styles ranging from abstract to realist. These works of art display the creativity and imagination of a northern Andean culture that flourished from the 1st to the 8th century.” – UNESCO
3. City of Quito, Ecuador
Plaza de la Independencia, Quito
“Quito, the capital of Ecuador, was founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city and stands at an altitude of 2,850 m. Despite the 1917 earthquake, the city has the best-preserved, least altered historic centre in Latin America. The monasteries of San Francisco and Santo Domingo, and the Church and Jesuit College of La Compañía, with their rich interiors, are pure examples of the ‘Baroque school of Quito’, which is a fusion of Spanish, Italian, Moorish, Flemish and indigenous art.” – UNESCO
4. Chan Chan Archaeological Zone, Trujillo, Peru
Aerial view of ancient ruins of Chan Chan in Trujillo, Peru
“The Chimu Kingdom, with Chan Chan as its capital, reached its apogee in the 15th century, not long before falling to the Incas. The planning of this huge city, the largest in pre-Columbian America, reflects a strict political and social strategy, marked by the city’s division into nine ‘citadels’ or ‘palaces’ forming autonomous units.” – UNESCO
RELATED
TOUR
South American Epic
This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...
5. Historic Centre of Lima, Peru
Archbishop’s Palace, Lima
“Although severely damaged by earthquakes, this ‘City of the Kings’ was, until the middle of the 18th century, the capital and most important city of the Spanish dominions in South America. Many of its buildings, such as the Convent of San Francisco (the largest of its type in this part of the world), are the result of collaboration between local craftspeople and others from the Old World.” – UNESCO
6. Lines & Geoglyphs of Nasca, Peru
Hummingbird, Nazca
“Located in the arid Peruvian coastal plain, some 400 km south of Lima, the geoglyphs of Nasca and the pampas of Jumana cover about 450 km2 . These lines, which were scratched on the surface of the ground between 500 B.C. and A.D. 500, are among archaeology’s greatest enigmas because of their quantity, nature, size and continuity. The geoglyphs depict living creatures, stylized plants and imaginary beings, as well as geometric figures several kilometres long. They are believed to have had ritual astronomical functions.” – UNESCO
7. City of Cusco, Peru
Cusco at sunset
“Situated in the Peruvian Andes, Cuzco developed, under the Inca ruler Pachacutec, into a complex urban centre with distinct religious and administrative functions. It was surrounded by clearly delineated areas for agricultural, artisan and industrial production. When the Spaniards conquered it in the 16th century, they preserved the basic structure but built Baroque churches and palaces over the ruins of the Inca city.” – UNESCO
8. Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu, Peru
Sunrise, Machu Picchu
“Machu Picchu stands 2,430 m above sea-level, in the middle of a tropical mountain forest, in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. It was probably the most amazing urban creation of the Inca Empire at its height; its giant walls, terraces and ramps seem as if they have been cut naturally in the continuous rock escarpments. The natural setting, on the eastern slopes of the Andes, encompasses the upper Amazon basin with its rich diversity of flora and fauna.” – UNESCO
9. Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina
Onelli Glacier, Los Glaciares National Park
“The Los Glaciares National Park is an area of exceptional natural beauty, with rugged, towering mountains and numerous glacial lakes, including Lake Argentino, which is 160 km long. At its farthest end, three glaciers meet to dump their effluvia into the milky grey glacial water, launching massive igloo icebergs into the lake with thunderous splashes.” – UNESCO
]]>
You’ve decided to cycle from Cairo to Cape Town. Great! There are many obvious reasons to do this. Exercise. Fresh air. Wild animals. Incredible Scenery. And the sights! The Pyramids. Abu Simbel. Mount Kilimanjaro. Lake Malawi. Victoria Falls. The Dunes at Souseveli. Table Mountain. All worthy of the effort.
There are, however, a number of slightly more quirky and arcane reasons to pedal across Africa.
1. Cairo – Explore the Baron Empain Palace
Of course, Cairo has the incredible Pyramids in Giza but if you stray off the beaten track and head to the suburb of Heliopolis, you will find this Indian themed mansion, locally known as the Hindu Palace. Built by Belgian industrialist and architect Edouard Empain (who also built the Paris Metro), its construction was completed in 1911. Designed by French architect Alexandre Marcel and decorated by Georges-Louis Claude, the mansion was inspired by temples in both Angkor Wat, Cambodia and Orissa in India. Baron Empain had purchased 25 square kilometres of desert dunes from the British who still ruled Egypt at the time. His goal was to turn this, at the time deserted area, into a peaceful oasis with his very own palace right in the very heart of it. It is believed that palace’s iconic tower was even once able to rotate so that the Baron could enjoy 360º views.
Unfortunately, it appears the palace is cursed. The Baron’s wife fell to her death from its tower. The story goes that the Baron was so busy playing with his tower that he failed to see her fall, and was therefore unable to rescue her. A few years later his daughter was found dead in a basement chamber, the same basement that is said to be connected to underground tunnels which lead to the nearby Catholic basilica. The palace is also said to be haunted – the site of satanic rituals, orgies, and animal sacrifices in its underground rooms. There are rumoured sightings of the Baron’s daughter, of furniture moving across rooms, of mirrors stained with blood and voices in the dead of night.
2. Khartoum – Take a whirl at the Sheikh Hamad-al Nil Tomb
After taking the obligatory photo of the meeting of the Blue and White Nile Rivers in Khartoum, head over to its sister city of Omdurman. While most people immediately think of Turkey when you mention whirling dervishes, a local troupe from the vibrant Sudanese Sufi community whirls around the the Sheikh Hamad-al Nil Tomb tomb, named after a 19th-century Sufi leader, every Friday afternoon in a trance-like state as part of a sacred ritual called dhikr. The ceremony starts with participants, looking like Rastafarians with their dreadlocks and colourful patchwork robes with bright beads draped around their necks, carrying green banners while parading through the cemetery towards the mausoleum. Their appearance is a world away from the restrained white robes of most Sudanese.
Devotees then dance and work themselves into a frenzy – chanting, praying, bobbing, clapping, drumming and clashing cymbals all while reciting Allah’s name. This helps them to create a state of ecstatic abandon that supposedly allows their hearts to communicate directly with God. The atmosphere is electric and dancers can enter trance-like states, some falling to the ground. The perimeter is maintained by a man with a club but fights often break out among the more belligerent adherents who appear to taunt each other while wild-eyed priests dance around and blow incense into the faces peering out from the mass of spectators. You will find it hard not to be swept along with the ritual.
3. Nairobi – Experience ‘Art Brut’ in a glass wonderland
After a fine meal of crocodile steak or ostrich meat balls at the city’s famous Carnivore restaurant, head out to Kitengela Glass, opposite to Nairobi National Park. German art brut exponent Nani Croze settled in the desert across the road from Nairobi National Park in the 1970s. Art Brut, or Raw Art, was invented by the French artist Jean Dubuffet to describe art such as graffiti or naïve art which is made outside the academic tradition of fine art. He saw fine art as dominated by academic training, which he referred to as ‘art culturel’ or cultural art. For Dubuffet, art brut − which included the work of the insane, prisoners, children, and primitive artists – was the raw expression of a vision or emotions, untrammelled by convention. Nani found she had no reprieve from the scorching Kenyan sun. There were few trees, so the artist began making sculptures to create shade.
Kitengela is now a community, complete with hotel, glassworks and sculpture garden. It has been described as a cross between the splendorous architecture of Antoni Gaudí and a Hobbit village. The area is filled with dragons, butterflies and abstract, multi-coloured giants. Nani tells visitors that “Money was always scarce so we used available materials; grass, mud and stone. This has not stopped and we are still using mainly recycled materials; old glass, scrap metal and wastepaper.” The community now employs about 50 artisans, most of whom live onsite. You can stay in one of the unique guesthouses but be aware that the proximity to the National Park means that overnight guests can expect giant and mini pigs, camels, horses, mule and donkeys, ostriches, rottweilers and dachshunds and jack-russels, the Egyptian Vulture (the Kitengela mascot), and the odd leopard or hyena, lions, baboons, Sykes monkeys, bush babies and Hyrax, not forgetting, of course, the river pythons that regularly feed on the poultry.
4. Lusaka – Learn how to cast a spell at Lusaka’s National Museum Witchcraft Exhibit
While cycling through the rolling hills of eastern Zambia on the way to a rest day in its capital, Lusaka, you may suddenly find yourself humming the catchy, yet somewhat annoying Eagles tune, ‘Witchy Woman.’ Don’t worry. The heat and humidity are not driving you crazy. You are just gearing up for your visit to the mysterious Witchcraft Exhibit at Lusaka’s National Museum, a fascinating window into the traditional beliefs of Zambia, a blend of Christianity, superstition, and magic. There are so many people in Zambia who can swear to have had some personal encounter with the power of witchcraft. It is fact that many Zambians turn to traditional healers, herbalists and witchdoctors when confronted by strange or unexplainable problems.
While pedalling through the Zambian countryside, see if you can find some small gourds, baby bush skin, bead strings (blue, green, white, yellow), a hand rattle, a small carved human figure and a fly whisk. This Kapuyi will enable you to sleep with other people’s wives during the night. It can be used with water, groundnuts or mealie meal. If you can rustle up some monitor lizard skin, a piece of chitenge (local cloth) and an infusion of tutumusi, inkunta mazombwe, nkulumunshi and tutu, you can apply this to your feet and as you walk through other people’s fields, those crops will mysteriously be taken to your house or field. Nyakazi, a wooden carving with light and dark blue beads, human hair and pieces of cloth will allow you to use the resulting powers of darkness to cause fatal road accidents. Finally, and this is a really good trick, there is the Python Skin Belt. The herbal medicine stitched into it will allow you to commit adultery while a couple is in bed together at night. The man is anointed with herbs putting him into a deep sleep while the adulterer sleeps freely with the woman.
5. Solitaire, Namibia – Eat apple pie & explore an alternative universe
After pedalling 200 desolate kms from Windhoek, cyclists will be happy to arrive in the tiny settlement of Solitaire. The fact that MacGregor’s Bakery serves the best apple pie in Africa won’t hurt either! Beside the bakery and behind the gas station, riders will discover the A Sentence is an Archipelago of Words Kcymaerxthaere Historical Site. Within the site there is a marker titled Each and Every Word. I am sure you are now thinking to yourself, ‘WTF”!? Let me try to explain. According to their website “Kcymaerxthaere is the name of an alternative universe that co-exists to some degree with ours. It was–and continues to be–presented by Geographer-at-Large Eames Demetrios. Its name comes from two Cognate words: kcymaara, which means the true physicality of the planet, and the word xthaere, which is a shape with almost an infinity of dimensions or sides— infinity minus 29, to be precise. This parallel world is largely consistent in certain ways with our physical world, but with different stories, creatures, rules, even laws of physics.” Got it?
Kcymaerxthaere is also the name of Demetrios’ storytelling art project installing markers and historical sites that honour events from this parallel world in our world. Most include written stories (in bronze, concrete and stone usually)—but it is not only what is written but where you experience reading the story (and, often, the forms). This particular site, Each and Every Word, informs you that “As in most gwomes, the inhabitants of this area were keenly aware of the not quite infinite number of dimensions in space, time, ferylemt and even existence that make up Kcymaerxthaere. Their core belief, however, was far less common: that for each and every word of every language of all times there was a corresponding dimension of the xthaere utterly embodying its meaning. Ironically, their name for themselves was not a textual word but an experience: [the very silence of waiting in this place]. And the one whose waiting gave the gift of that name was called the Sevral Acrlaat, sent alone here for life, for the husks of gutted universes, windblown from the lair of Kmpass, needing the healing sound of a new word.”
6. Namib Desert, Southern Namibia – Follow in the footsteps of the Gods
They may be a little difficult to see from the seat of your bicycle but Fairy Circles are worth the effort. These unexplained bald patches in the landscape grow and recede over time, as though they are somehow alive. Unlike their paranormal cousins, crop circles, it appears that these are completely natural. Scientists have tried to explain their formation with various theories – competition for scarce water resources, sand termites, radioactive soil and residual plant toxins – but any examination of the soil in and around the circles has revealed no abnormal insects, parasites or unusual fungus. The smallest fairy circles are about five feet in diameter and the largest circles can sprawl across 130 feet. A single one can exist for at least 75 years—maybe for centuries. Among their many peculiar qualities is a spooky low-level magnetism: A magnet dragged across the inside of a circle picks up far more soil than it does outside its boundary.
Of course, other, less scientific, explanations exist. Some see them as UFO hotspots while others propose that the circles are formed by a dragon in the earth and that its poisonous breath kills the vegetation. Maybe it was fairies, linking hands and dancing round and round and round. The region’s bushmen have traditionally ascribed spiritual and magical powers to them, seeing them as the footprints of the Gods. In the oral myths of the Himba people, a semi-nomadic, pastoral people, the circles are said to have been caused by the their original ancestor, Mukuru. “I think it is God,” one local guide recently claimed. “If he decorated animals with stripes or spots, why not the sand too?” For now, the only certainty is the mystery.
7. Cape Town, South Africa – The end of the road…literally!
credit: Wikipedia
After cycling the 12,000 or so kms from Cairo to Cape Town, riders will be greeted, weather permitting, by the iconic back drop of Table Mountain looming over the ‘Mother City’. To them, Cape Town marks the end of the road, the completion of their incredible cycling achievement. To local residents, however, the ‘end of the road’ means something else entirely – the Foreshore Freeway Bridge.
In the late 1960’s increasing traffic congestion in the city led engineers to design a new road, the Eastern Boulevard Highway. Work began in the early 1970’s but budget constraints meant that work was halted in 1977 and then never restarted. Urban myths regarding the reason for the refusal of the city to complete the project include the theory that a shopkeeper refused to sell his property so the bridge could pass though it or that the design team had made a calculation error resulting in the two ends failing to link up. In the meantime, the bridge has become somewhat of a tourist attraction and is also a popular movie and fashion shoot location. Sometimes used as a parking lot, some other ideas for the bridge’s future include planting trees on the overpass, turning it into a roller coaster or skate park or creating a street arcade underneath. Recently rumours have circulated in the cycle touring community that TDA Global Cycling will use it as the finish line for their annual Cairo to Cape Town Cycling Expedition.
]]>
RN40, better known as Ruta 40, is the longest route in Argentina. Construction began in 1935 and the road was initially designed as a connection between the few inhabited places in the strategically important border zone with Chile. At more than 5,000 km long, it takes its rightful place among the world’s other great roads – Canada’s Trans-Canada Highway, Australia’s Stuart Highway and The USA’s Route 66. It has stirred the imaginations of many including the outlaw Butch Cassidy and writer Bruce Chatwin. An Argentinian band even wrote a song about it.
The route largely follows the course of the ancestral Inca Trail, built by the Inca Empire to link their vast territories with their capital city of Cusco, in Peru. In Patagonia it follows the path of the ancient rastrilladas of the Tehuelche natives. Most of the road runs alongside and sometimes within the Andes Mountain range, passing through some of the most extraordinary landscapes on the planet and connecting 20 national parks. It crosses 236 rivers and features 27 Andean passes (including one at 5,000 m). The elevation varies from its lowest point at 39 m above the sea level by the lighthouse at Cabo Vírgenes, (Cape Virigns) in Santa Cruz, Patagonias to 3,460 m in the border town of La Quiaca, Jujuy. It crosses 11 provinces and passes through three provincial capitals -Mendoza, San Juan and Río Gallegos. It’s length spans almost 30 degrees of latitude, from 22° 45’S to the parallel of 52° – from the tropics to cold Patagonian glaciers. With its hairpin bends and endless straight sections buffeted by violent gusts across the deserted steppe, Ruta 40 is easily considered one of the world’s most epic rides.
Iglesia San Francisco, Salta
Cyclists taking part in TDA Global Cycling’s South American Epic Cycling Expedition will be delighted to discover that they will cover over 1100 km of this legendary road during the Expedition’s ‘Across the Andes‘ section that runs from Salta, Argentina to Santiago, Chile. In fact, the riders will re-join Ruta 40 over a month later in Patagonia for another 265 km!
>>Related Post: Cycling Patagonia: Everything You Need To Know
The ‘Across the Andes’ section begins in Salta, Argentina, known for its Spanish colonial architecture and Andean heritage. This city was originally on the Ruta 40 until a new road was built further west so now the riders will have to wait until the town of Cafayate, 200 km away, to start cycling on the official route. For the next 1100 km, until Mendoza, they will experience the history and sights of this fabled road.
The town of Cafayate is well known for the red rocks of the Quebrada de las Conchas and the Garganta del Diablo as well as local wineries like Finca Las Nubes which specializes in the Torrontés varietal. Heading south on Ruta 40 the landscape shifts from Triassic badlands to mountainsides striped with rocks of green, yellow, red, brown, purple, white and pink.
Quilmes
On the road to the small town of Santa Maria, a 5 km detour leads to the well-preserved pre-Colombian ruins at Quilmes (A. D. 1000).There are some great views to be had by climbing the surrounding hills but be aware that in addition to the hot sun, there is, according to Lonely Planet, ‘a large fly population keen on exploring your facial orifices.” The original indigenous inhabitants managed to co-exist with the Incas but in 1667 the Spanish deported the surviving members of the community to Buenos Aires, where a few descendants still remain. In fact, one of Argentina’s most famous beers, ‘Quilmes‘, is named after the area in Buenos Aires where the inhabitants were exiled to and where the company’s first brewery was established.
RELATED
TOUR
South American Epic
This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...
After Santa Maria, the road weaves through the Valle Calchaquí, past dry riverbeds and scrubland with views of far-off, snow-covered mountains. Refreshments are available in the picturesque tiny village of Hualfin, surrounded by red rock walls. Approaching Belén, known as one of the best places to purchase a poncho, the scenery changes as the route enters the Quebrada del Complejo Termal, a red sandstone gorge formed through geothermal activity.
Ruins at El Shincal
Next up is the languid little town of Londres, named after its slightly more famous twin in Britain, founded in 1558 and the second oldest town in the country. It is a base for visiting the Inca ruins at El Shincal, once the capital of the Incan southern provinces. The setting is spectacular and the views are amazing. Be sure to bring your Spanish language skills as all information is in the local dialect.
Heading south, the route is spectacular, following a valley flanked on the west by the Sierra de Famatina range and to the east by the Sierra de Velasco. This is one of the highest areas of the Andes with some mountains reaching up to 6,000 m above sea level. Next up is the Wild West mining town of Chilecito. Dotted with cardon cacti, it is a good base for several attractions in the surroundings: old villages, rock formations and one of the world’s highest mountain railways which , unfortunately, has been recently shut down.
Sandstone rock formations, Talampaya
The road now bends to the west and heads to the city of Villa Union, beautifully situated amidst the intense red mountain ranges of the Sierra de Famatina and the Sierra de Maíz. On the way it passes through a spectacular gorge, the Cuesta de Miranda. The city, which produces some delicacies like Vino Patero (foot-stepping wine) and dried fruits, is the perfect base for exploring Talampaya and Ischigualasto National Parks, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Talampaya is focused around an immense red sandstone canyon littered with surreal rock formations while Ischigualasto is dominated by a moonscape of greyish dust. Dotted around this aptly named Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) are petroglyphs and fossil sites.
Vineyard near Mendoza
Dry, hilly landscapes dominate the next stretch with the oasis town of San José de Jáchal providing a welcome break. The road passes through San Juan, the provincial capital and site of a 1944 earthquake that killed more than 10,000 people, and skirts the sand desert near Lavalle, the only desert or that kind in South America. Before long the famous vineyards of Mendoza begin to appear. Despite the fact that the area is technically a desert, sparkling irrigation ditches line the roads and burbling fountains adorn leafy plazas throughout the city.
At this point, the cyclists on the South American Epic, after raising a glass or two of Mendoza’s famous Malbec, will reluctantly leave the legendary Ruta 40 and head west, up over the Andes and into Chile, continuing their quest for Ushuaia and the southern tip of the continent.
]]>When we announced the 2020 Trans-Europa, it included a new route in Spain and a new finishing point at the rock of Gibraltar, making the Trans-Europa a truly cross-continental tour and the longest supported cycling trip in Europe. This just might be the year for you to jump on board.
If you can’t rustle up the three months to cycle it all, here are 5 reasons to consider joining the newest and final section – El Toro.
1. Barcelona
Barcelona makes a great starting point for this amazing new section – beaches, seafood, bars, culture and street life await you. The art of Antoni Gaudi dominates the city and its proud people are more likely to tell you they are Catalonian than Spanish.
“Barcelona is an enchanting seaside city with boundless culture, fabled architecture and a world-class drinking and dining scene.” – Lonely Planet
On my first visit, I was amazed with how walkable the city is and how much it has to offer – great beaches right in the city and amazing museums like the Museo Picasso.
>> Related: 36 Hours in Barcelona: A Cyclist’s Guide
2. Valencia, the Homeland of Paella
My time in Spain felt like an unending, but very enjoyable, search for the perfect paella, the yummy saffron and rice-based dish that you will find across Spain.
The region around Valencia is known for growing fruits and vegetables. Of course, oranges are grown here, but did you know Valencia is also “Paella’s homeland” according to Lonely Planet. I never had the chance to visit Valencia, but it’s a stop on the new and improved Trans-Europa.
3. Alhambra and Moorish History
Most of the Iberian Peninsula, which makes up modern day Spain and Portugal, was ruled by the Moors from 711 until 1492 when the Moorish Kingdom of Granada surrendered to the Christian armies of Spain. The Alhambra became a Royal Palace and remains one of the most popular attractions in Spain.
4. Bull Fighting (and more) in and Around Ronda
Some consider Ronda to be the birthplace of bull fighting. Home to the oldest bullring in Spain, the city was also a destination for some famous writers. Ernest Hemingway visited often and Orson Welles’ ashes are buried there. If bull fighting isn’t your thing, than you can spend some time in El Torcal de Antequera – a nature reserve known for its unusual landforms. According to Wikipedia, it is regarded as one of the most impressive karst landscapes in Europe.
5. Nothing Like Shoulder Season in Europe
Cities like Tarragona, Valencia and Granada are all very, very busy during the summer months. On the Trans-Europa, you’ll feel travel-savvy visiting in late September, with its cooler temperatures and uncrowded beaches.
]]>Last year I was lucky enough to spend seven weeks in Japan. I travelled around the country, half the time walking on Shikoku Island and the other half, visiting the Okinawan islands. This February I found myself sent to Taiwan and mainland China to scout the new sections of the 2019 Bamboo Road Cycling Expedition. What a surprise! While driving around the island I realized how similar it looked to the Japanese archipelago. I shared my impression with Jimmy, our local support for Mandarin-speaking regions, and he told me that Taiwan was occupied by the Japanese from 1895 to 1945. During those 50 years the economy, education, culture, religion and urbanization of this island all radically changed.
Front gate of Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall
If you are wavering between exploring China and Japan and have 2 weeks off in September this year, Taiwan is a great compromise. On the ‘Taiwan Coastal Loop‘ section of the Bamboo Road, you can circumnavigate the island and experience both cultures. It’s really interesting to travel there and see how well these two rich heritages mix together to form a new syncretism.
Streets signs, Taipei
You’ll sometimes think you’re travelling in Japan due to the modernity of the cities, the great cell phone coverage (unblocked!) and the ubiquitous presence of 7-Eleven and Family-Mart convenience stores throughout the island. Everyone speaks Mandarin but in bigger cities you can always find some people who speak English.
Ancient Temple
Religion on this island is most diverse. It mixes Shinto (the original religion of Japan), Buddhism, Atheism, Daoism/Taoism, Mazu (a Chinese sea goddess), Christianity, Confucianism, Yiguandao and some other, even more localized beliefs.
Taiwanese Meatballs
You can find fresh sushi, takoyaki (octopus’ balls) and udon noodles, all of which are typically from Japan and sample traditional Chinese food. Taiwan is also known for its own unique culinary cuisine and many people travel to the country just to sample it.
RELATED
TOUR
Bamboo Road
Many of us have criss-crossed the countries of South-East Asia on a ‘shoestring’ over the years, returning home with fond memories. Now we invite...
How do you say rear derailleur?
Residents of Taiwan are most considerate and curious about foreigners. They want to talk to you and, despite the language barrier, you can communicate with apps like Google Translate, where each person speaks in their native tongue and hears a translated response from their smartphone.
East Coast, Taiwan
Landscapes are stunning. On your bicycle, you’ll likely want to stop at every corner. Roads range from winding trails in the mountains with impressive lookouts to oceanside routes bordered by sheer cliffs.
There are dedicated bike paths by rivers and through the rice paddies. On the Bamboo Road, you exit and re-enter Taipei on beautiful bike paths along the river.
Kenting National Park
You can relax by the beach and hike in the mountains in Kenting National Park or enjoy a soak in one of the island’s many beautiful hot springs.
Rice Paddies
It takes 10 riding days to circle this beautiful island. Each day comes with its own unique flavour. Every 100 kms is different!
]]>The magical and mysterious region of Southeast Asia has in recent times become a mecca for international travellers, including an ever growing number of long distance cycle-tourists. Its allures cover a broad spectrum, from ancient and modern civilizations influenced by Buddhism, Hinduism, Islam and folk religions, to spicy culinary delights and every kind of fruit imaginable. The beauty of its diverse terrain and the warm and often hot and humid climes beckon work and winter weary farang to embark on a spiritual retreat at a centuries old temple, a kickback holiday on a tropical isle, or in this case an extended tour from the best seat imaginable – your bike.
Vegetable Market in Stung Treng, Cambodia (Credit: Marek Poplawski)
While Southeast Asia is typically defined as consisting of eleven countries that reach from eastern India to China to the Philippines, this blog focuses on exploring its heartland of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam, on two wheels. These neighbouring mainland nations share much in common including the mother Mekong river, super friendly local peoples, relatively low crime rates, and the at times overbearing influence of China, but each delivers its own unique and rich experience.
RELATED
TOUR
Bamboo Road
Many of us have criss-crossed the countries of South-East Asia on a ‘shoestring’ over the years, returning home with fond memories. Now we invite...
Sunset over the Mekong River
The Grand Circle
In fact there is so much to indulge the senses that this blog is simply going to outline a grand circle tour that encompasses many of the region’s must visit locales, with the aim of encouraging you to dream of riding your bike through this awesome corner of the planet. Everyone’s itinerary is different, for some it will be mostly about cycling, while others will choose to sojourn in places that enthral, or divert off the beaten track to where hidden discoveries await. I cycled from Hanoi to Bangkok as part of our company’s Bamboo Road cycle tour in 2017, and I plan to go back for more later this year. Whatever your priorities this route serves as a baseline itinerary for what is bound to be a thrilling adventure of a lifetime. The ideal time to embark on this 3 to 4 month adventure covering approximately 5500-6000 kms is mid October, with the aim of finishing between late January and mid February. This is generally the driest part of the year when temperatures are overall slightly cooler than at other times, ranging from warm to hot. Within this timeframe the ideal locale to start pedalling is probably Vientiane, the capital of Lao, and from there riding towards northern Vietnam, down most of its length, then into Cambodia, along Thailand’s coast to Bangkok, than upcountry to Chiang Mai, and back into Laos.
Credit: Ride with GPS
What to Bring
SE Asia has a road network whose primary routes are generally in good to excellent condition, and if you must bring a road bike than sticking to pavement will be your approach. But you’ll also be dealing with more traffic, above all scooters, and your ability to truly explore will be reduced. With that in mind, a gravel or cross or hard tail mountain bike are the best choices, as they will enable you to navigate secondary and rougher roads and to adopt a “go wherever I choose” approach. Puncture resistance tires of width 32-40 mm and a cache of spare tubes will serve you well.
In Hanoi (shown here) and other Vietnamese cities, the scooter rules the road
Campsites are rare and there are reasonably priced and comfortable accommodations to be found virtually everywhere. Likewise cheap restaurants and delicious food abound, so there is no need for a tent, sleeping bag, or cooking equipment. In short, you can plan on travelling fairly light, with the strongest rear rack you can buy, a set of quality panniers containing a few changes of cycling and casual clothes, footwear, rain gear, the tools and spare parts essential to keep your bike rolling, a smart phone/camera utilizing local SIM cards, detailed country maps, basic toiletries including sun protection, and your documents.
Visas can be obtained at your point of entry/border crossing; the exception is Vietnam which has to be secured in advance. In terms of money, bring a reasonable amount of US$ cash for use when needed; beyond that your debit/credit card will work for withdrawing local funds – just be aware its always safer to use ATMs inside larger banks than street side machines. Note that the US$ is the predominate currency in Cambodia and ATMs in the larger Khmer towns and cities will surprisingly spit out greenbacks.
Laos
The “Land of 1000 Elephants” is the least densely populated, the cleanest and the most relaxed of the 4 countries en route; in other words the perfect place to acclimatize and begin spinning one’s wheels. Some of the must see highlights include:
The languid temple strewn capital city of Vientiane offers low cost digs, great street markets, a fascinating old quarter, delicious food washed down with Beer Lao, your introduction to the Mekong river sunsets, and quality bike shops.
Heading north, check out the cluster of Buddhas at Vang Sang, and then go caving, rafting and zip lining in rural paradise around Vang Vieng.
330 km north of Vientiane at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers lies the UNESCO World Heritage city of Luang Prabang, famed for its 33 wats (temples), royal history, French colonial villas, saffron clad monks, and world class gastronomy. LP is also one of the country’s eco-tourism centres and its nearby waterfalls, mountain bike trails, and serene landscapes will ensure your stay here is longer than expected.
Monks worshipping at Wat Souvanna Poumaram in Luang Prabang
From Luang Prabang, cycle northeast towards Vietnam. En route you’ll encounter vividly attired local tribes, including the Hmong, as you spin through rustic countryside, alongside river valleys and up and down twisting roads over mountain ridges.
Vietnam
Vietnam stretches almost 1500 km from top to bottom, bordered by the Gulf of Tomken and South China Sea on the east and a series of mountain ranges characterizing much of its western and northern frontiers. Away from the coast it’s rarely flat, with hilly terrain, and tropical forests in abundance. Outside of the more mountainous areas it’s also very heavily populated, and the omni-present scooter dominates traffic – cyclists beware. All in all Vietnam is a bargain and a feast for the senses, including its renowned national cuisine, conical hat clad peoples and ubiquitous rice paddies.
Terraced Rice Fields in Mu Cang Chai, northern Vietnam
From the border at Tay Trang head across forested hills to Dien Bien Phu where the Viet Minh defeated the French in 1954. Then turn north on route 12 through hill tribes country bound for the trekking centre of Sa Pa, surrounded by the country’s highest peaks. Turning southeast, breathtaking Route 32 is a premium option that will take you via Mu Cang Chai (see above photo) and usher you most of the way to Hanoi.
In this 1000 year old capital city it’s imperative to dodge the seemingly millions of scooters. Dive into the unbelievable street food while exploring the old quarter and paying homage to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. Leave your bike for a tune up in town, and take the bus for a kick back side trip to the World Heritage site that is mystical Ha Long Bay’s thousands of limestone karst islands.
Vista of Ha Long Bay, Vietnam
With your legs and spirits rejuvenated, explore Vietnam’s extensive coastline and empty beaches en route to the Nguyen empire’s capital of Hue, and the atmospheric town of Hoi An, before heading inland to the temperate garden center of Da Lat. From there route 20 will steer you to Saigon, the “Land of the Blue Dragon’s” pulsating metropolis. Here the War Remnants museum will give you a sobering reminder of the ravages of the USA-Vietnam conflict before you immerse yourself back into the bustling streets and heartbeat of this fast forward moving nation.
Cambodia
Cambodia is a paradox. On the one hand the “Land of the Khmer” is SE Asia’s poorest country, on the other it’s steeped in history and mystery. And while the genocidal era of Poi Pot and the Khmer Rouge is fading into the past, the omnipresent rule of the current one party state is not to be messed with. For the cycle tourist Cambodia offers the tranquility of cycling on quiet roads along the Mekong past villages of stilted houses before you encounter its principal destinations.
Depending on your chosen route, you’ll probably meet the Mekong at Kratie, where Irrawaddy dolphins frolic in its waters, or in the unhurried provincial town of Kampong Cham. From there we recommend taking the back roads on the south side of the river to where the ferries cross into downtown Phnom Penh. This sultry capital has much more to offer than casually meets the eye, above all its gilded national palace compound, riverside restaurants, street markets, and anything goes nightlife.
Khmer Royal Palace, Phnom Penh
Leaving Phnom Penh you have 2 enticing but entirely different options – pedalling the smooth pavement of Highway 6 or taking a leisurely boat cruise meandering up the Sap River and across Tonle Sap lake. Both will deliver you to Siem Reap, gateway to the Angkor temples complexes. The town of Siem Reap can be an assault on the senses, with hordes of tourists congregating around gaudy Pub street, but it does have many fine dining options and some cool handicraft markets. Remember to buy your tickets to the temples on the outskirts of town before taking a tuk tuk with guide or your bike to gape at Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious building, Bayon’s faces of Buddha, jungle swallowed Ta Prohm, and the other fortunately less frequented temples. It’s best to arrive at sunrise before the throngs of Chinese package holidayers overwhelm the place.
Bayon Temple’s ever smiling faces of Buddha
Back on your bike, the Thai border at Poipet is a quick 200 km west but we recommend instead taking the longer route south via the laid back towns of Battambang and Krong Koh Kong, before entering the Kingdom of Siam along the Gulf of Thailand coast.
Thailand
Known as the “Land of Smiles,” SE Asia’s densely populated economic and tourist engine, has it all; culinary paradise, temples and ruins, kick back Islands and beaches, hedonism and spirituality, elephant festivals and agricultural drudgery, all stirred together in one unfathomable and unforgettable pot.
Following the coastline north-eastwards gives the long distance cyclist the chance to slowly adjust to Thai temptations, including the omnipresent massage options. The island national park of Koh Chang and the palm lined bays of tiny Ko Mak are among the many possible retreats that will provide a relaxing respite for tired legs in paradise.
Pattaya marks the onset of more frenetic Thailand, including the unsettling phenomena that is the sexpat industry. We’ll leave the seemingly endless list of what to do’s in Bangkok, the “City of Angels” (and Demons some would say), to the Guidebook experts. Our only suggestion is that you ferry into this megapolis of 12 million people from the south on the Chao Phraya river and exit by train or bus heading north, thereby reducing your exposure to the smog and nightmarish traffic.
Bangkok, Thailand
About 50 km beyond Krung Thep’s sprawl, Ayutthaya and its network of crumbling temple ruins, is a logical place to hop back in the saddle. From there the 3000 and 1000 series of secondary roads will eventually take you to Sukhothai, whose 13th-14th century Kingdom is often referred to as the Golden Age of Thai civilization. Then it’s on to another of the major highlights of the “Grand Circle”, namely Chiang Mai, a glittering city of temples, markets and museums that served as the former capital of the Kingdom of Lanna.
Pagoda in Doi Inthanon National park, Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai is also renowned for its cooler climate and as a gateway to Thailand’s beautiful and rugged northern region. It’s the perfect place to base oneself for a few days or weeks or even months, before reality sets back in.
Laos revisited
The final leg of our journey takes one back into Laos at the border town of Muang Nguen and en route to the dense jungle of Nam Ha National Protected Area, home to a rich variety of wildlife including leopards. From there it’s a short exhilarating pedal back to sublime Luang Prabang. Hopefully this is where you’ll bless your bike for the last time because, and it’s unclear the extent to which this is possible nowadays, but if it is, then, as a tranquil finishing touch to your SE Asian odyssey, you should try to float down the mother Mekong by boat to Vientiane.
A few Do’s and Don’ts
Don’t get into arguments with or criticize the locals. Saving face is a key tenet of Eastern Asian cultures, creating embarrassment or dispute can cause an easy going person to turn nasty. Splurge on massages, they’re cheap and the perfect antidote to long days in the saddle. If you are not faint of stomach, eat the street food wherever you’re confident it’s safe, above all in the larger towns and cities in Vietnam, Lao and Thailand. In Cambodia food poisoning can be a riskier prospect.
Rodents and birds as dinner options at a village market in Lao
Closing Thought
Do it now! South-East Asia is only becoming more popular, its primary destinations more swamped with tourists, and its roads more crowded.
Peddling down the road in Vietnam
Brian Hoeniger works for TDA Global Cycling. He cycled from Hanoi to Bangkok in 2017 and is planning on spinning onwards from Bangkok to Singapore in late 2019, as a participant on TDAs Bamboo Road tour.
]]>Corsica isn’t known as one of Europe’s most popular places to cycle, but that is perhaps because people don’t know what they’re missing. So allow me to suggest six excellent reasons to cycle this Mediterranean island. It is officially French, but is closer to Italy than France – and not only in physical distance. It is for this reason – kind of – we included Corsica in the Viva Italia tour.
1. Cycling the Island of Beauty
The Greek called it Kalliste, the most beautiful island. The French call it L’Ile de Beaute. Others have called it Pleasure Island. I would say that if those are not enough of reason to cycle in Corsica, then your imagination likely needs a boost and there is no place better for it than Corsica.
2. Imagination Rules the World
It was a man who was born and grew up in Corsica who said “Imagination rules the world”. He must have had quite an imagination because he tried to rule as much of the world as he could. He even made it to an abandoned Moscow and his starving troops had to unceremoniously try to make it back home. His name was Napoleon Bonaparte and he was born in Ajocio – one place you need to make sure you visit when cycling Corsica.
RELATED
TOUR
Viva Italia
It has been said that ‘All roads lead to Rome’ and the Viva Italia cycling tour is simply more proof that this may indeed be the case...
3. It is a rough road that leads to the heights of greatness
There are a lot of hills and mountains in Corsica. A couple of millennia ago, in 41 AD to be precise, a Roman emperor Claudius banished a man called Seneca – a philosopher, stoic, playwright, investment banker, senator and tutor to future emperor Nero – to Corsica. Seneca used this opportunity to study the island, but more importantly to write. His works are being read to this day, and it is he who said “It is a rough road that leads to the heights of greatness”. Seneca of course knew nothing about bicycles but every Tour de France cyclist can tell you that whoever wants to win Le Tour he better be a good climber. The 2013 Tour de France had 3 stages in Corsica. You too can try to find the road to greatness!
4. Classica Corsica
No, I do not mean an elite men’s UCI road race that was held in 2015 but rather the classic foods that you will eat on the island. Corsica being mountainous with goats and sheep everywhere produces excellent cheeses, most famous of them being brocciu, the ricotta-like cheese. And if you’re going to have excellent local cheeses, then you will of course have excellent local wines. Rosé in particular goes well with another local specialty, Corsican charcuterie, which is made using centuries old methods.
5. Vistas, beaches and aroma
There is a reason why the island is called the Island of Beauty. While there are remarkable views to be had all over the island, the most spectacular are on the west coast called Les Calanches de Piana. One of the most striking – a UNESCO protected rock structure site known as porphyry needles – is called La Tete du Chien (Dog’s Head). Riding here ranks as one of the most stunning coastal bike routes in the world. Another beautiful area is the long peninsula of Cap Corse in the north. And when you need a break from cycling, wining and dining, it is time to choose one of the many beaches along the 1,000km of coastline. And let’s not forget the ‘aroma’. There are not many places in the world where two thirds of the area is protected and just about wherever you go or cycle you will smell a scent that emanates from aromatic shrubs that cover the island. It is called Maquis – a mixture of fresh herbs, flowers, and grasses that covers the mountains.
6. Heritage and Culture
Corsica is officially French but you do not want to announce it loudly. The Corsican language is more a dialect of Italian and young Napoleon had this to say about his home: “On Corsica I was given life, and with that life I was also given a fierce love for this my ill-starred homeland and fierce desire for her independence. I too shall one day be a ‘Paoli’.” Pasquale Paoli was a Corsican patriot, statesmen and the first president of a democratic Corsica that existed from 1755 until the French took over in 1768. Napoleon changed his mind and he did not become Paoli, but even today one can see graffiti from FLNC the Front de Liberation Nationale de Corse, a nationalist movement who want independence from France. This proud identity is not the only heritage around. When cycling through villages one can overhear the ethereal harmonics of Corsican musical polyphony, no doubt created by the mixture of influences that had acted on this island from nearby areas of Mediterranean, Africa, Alpine regions, France and Italy.
In conclusion, here are a couple of quotes from Seneca that serve not only as reasons to cycle Corsica, but also as a guide to better living:
“As is a tale, so is life: not how long it is, but how good it is, is what matters.”
“Begin at once to live, and count each separate day as a separate life.”
After inquiring with our Operations Manager, our South American Epic tour leader, the Ambassador for Colombia in Canada, and a Colombia based cyclist/filmmaker the answer to the question is an enthusiastic YES!, followed by a more measured but it will be tough. That is about the simplest way to sum up cycling in Colombia. But let me elaborate a bit.
You have likely heard of world class cyclists like Nairo Quintana, and you might have seen a video or read some stories of people cycling through Colombia – either solo or on organized tours (such as our South American Epic) but what is it really like as a cyclist? Is the traffic terrible? Are you going to be kidnapped or robbed by drug cartels or FARC rebels?
>>Learn more about cycling through Colombia on the South American Epic
I have been fortunate enough to ride my bike in many places. Cycle touring through Romania, Ethiopia, Bolivia, Kyrgyzstan and beyond has taught me that very few places are what you expect them to be. I have travelled to Colombia but never on a bike, so I thought I’d ask around and get some further insight about cycling in Colombia by people who really know. I am sure many of you would love to hear what they have to say about cycling in Colombia.
Colombia is Stable and Secure Says Ambassador Federico Hoyos
Through the friendly Colombia Tourism team at ProColombia here in Canada I was able to pose a few questions to the Colombian Ambassador to Canada, the Honourable Federico Hoyos. He says that “21st century Colombia is a young and vibrant country.” More in his words…
Tourism in Colombia is steadily increasing year after year, due to a change of image and outside perception of our country. Colombia is an innovative and modern place…added to the fact of stability and security.
Colombia is very well-known for having some of the best cyclists in the world like Rigoberto Urán, Cochise Rodriguez and Nairo Quintana! Due to our beautiful topography, to our mountains, to our very steep slopes, Colombia is a great country for cyclists worldwide. It is going to be tough, it’s going to be exciting, but it is also going to be beautiful because you’re going to see everything: you can see the mountains,the beaches… deserts… in one single country.
Besides, you will sense the warmth of our people who will welcome you with open arms, and you will also get a taste of our food along our roads, which changes from one region to another. And we have great weather too, all year long. It is nice, warm and stable, which of course also contributes to making Colombia a great cycling destination.
Thank you to Mr. Hoyos for taking time out of what is surely a busy schedule to help us with this article.
Colombia is Full of Cycling Enthusiasts says Miles MacDonald
Miles, TDA Global Cycling’s much respected Operations Manager and experienced world traveler, agrees with the ambassador and shares some helpful safety tips.
In Colombia, drivers are both used to cyclists, and also tend to go out of their way to give cyclists their deserved space on the road, and that is a great advantage for safe cycling.
From TDA’s experience bringing groups of cyclists to Colombia, and information from local Colombian sources, the security situation on the ground is stable in the vast majority of regions of the country. So it’s good to do some research when planning a route in Colombia. It’s also good to stick to a few good practices that are best followed anywhere in the world.
Miles’ Tips for Cyclists on Staying Safe in Colombia
- Keep your cycling to daylight hours
- Ideally cycle with a friend
- Know where you are going, and read up on the area and roads you’ll be cycling and place where you’ll be sleeping.
- Be wary of crimes of opportunity (such as bike theft from leaving your bike unattended or unlocked)
- Be defensive minded towards traffic
- Be cautious around dogs along the road
- If something doesn’t feel right, trust your instincts
You Have to Surrender Yourself to Colombia Says Gregg Bleakney
Gregg cycled the Americas (North and South!) in 2006 and planted roots in Colombia where he runs his film production company, WhereNext. As he says “Colombia is the holy grail of both storytelling and travel.” His most recent project is The Birders – in search of rare endemic birds of Colombia. He also created this video for us: Why cycle South America – all shot in Colombia.
Just over a decade ago, most of Colombia’s spectacular landscapes were completely off limits to road tripping in a car, and unthinkable on a bicycle. It’s so great to see the guys in our office, most of whom are cyclists, planning and plotting multi-day routes during their lunch break. Most of the time they are traveling on roads that have never been mapped on Strava. It’s truly a period of discovery.
Nothing in Colombia is easy. It’s a place where joy on two wheels is commonplace–but you’ve got to work for it. The more you surrender yourself to Colombia, the more the country will tow you in its wake of joy. My advice is to be like my adopted Colombian street dog, sniff around, talk to strangers, get carnal. Use your time in Colombia to indulge your curiosity.
Cristiano Shares Some Words of Caution About This Friendly Nation
Having been the tour leader for our various tours in South America over the last decade and having cycled throughout South America himself, who better to finish this off than someone with on-the-ground experience.
More and more international cyclists have been visiting Colombia, whether touring, racing or just attracted by world famous climbs like Paso Letras, which we take on the [South American Epic]
As long as you know where you are going [and avoid known narco guerilla areas] I consider it pretty safe. Having said that, in 2022 there are presidential elections and things could eventually take some kind of a U-turn, [or] improve even more. In my opinion, if you want to cycle in Colombia, now is a great time to do so.
There was a slogan from the government a few years ago that said: ‘Colombia, the only risk is wanting to stay’… the main risk of cycling in Colombia is the same as cycling on any shared road anywhere in the world, motorized vehicles. Also, the ups and downs can be really long and really steep, so it is easy to gain a lot of speed on the downhills.
There is no other country in Latin America with anywhere near the amount of cyclists as in Colombia. I’m not talking only commuters and rural cyclists, I’m talking also about athletes. So in general drivers know how to behave when there are cyclists on the road, when they are not cyclists themselves.
People are extremely friendly! I do not remember one aggressive encounter there ever! People are always smiling. If travelling alone, you will always be invited into people’s houses etc.
>>Read Cristiano’s blog ‘Colombia’s Crazy Cycling Culture’
My Final Thoughts on our Travel Misconceptions
So in conclusion, yes it is safe. And yes, there is many a hill to climb in Colombia. That is the one point everyone – including the Ambassador – all agreed on, so make sure you do some training.
When we haven’t been somewhere ourselves, we have no choice but to base our impressions of a place on a small fraction of reality, and a large amount of assumption. So check yourself and make sure it’s real risk and not just fear holding you back. This is certainly not the first time we’ve written on these topics of perception and risk.
That’s not to say there aren’t risks – there are. You need to educate yourself, and be cautious and clear eyed about any travel to a new place where cultures and customs are different than what you are used to. Use some of Miles’ tips above and once you have done that, take it all in. Pedal hard. Breathe deeply as you experience all that Colombia has to offer.
>>Read more about Colombia: Countless Reasons to Cycle Colombia Now
RELATED
TOUR
South American Epic
This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...
Sardinia. Widely known as the ‘Land of Silence’, it boasts well-maintained roads, little traffic and widespread bike-friendly accommodation. As the second largest island in the Mediterranean, it is blessed with over 50 lakes, 3 major rivers and great weather. Autumn is especially lovely for cycling – sunny, pleasantly mild with its trees magically changing from green to reds, oranges and yellows.
Sounds nice, eh? But wait, there are more reasons…many more! Here are just 5 of our favourite reasons to cycle Sardinia.
A Wine For Every Region
Cycling through Sardinia, you are never far from a vineyard. The island boasts an astounding 113 varieties of the local grape, Cannonau (widely known as Grenache) so every region you pedal through will have a different taste. Sardinians were the first wine-makers in the Mediterranean and the tradition goes back thousands of years. It was originally believed that grapes were brought to the island when it was conquered by the Aragonese in the 15th century BC but are now believed to have originated on Sardinia.
Killer Coastlines
Sardinia is endowed with over 1800 km of stunning coastlines. Roads snake along the edge of the island providing breathtaking views around almost every curve. Every now and then, as they pedal past deep bays and picturesque inlets, riders may discover a hidden cove in which to enjoy a well-earned swim in otherworldly blue waters. Steep cliffs give way to gentle, sandy beaches while secluded caves and grottoes invite exploration.
Challenging Climbs
Amazing climbs, amazing views. Sardinia’s mountain ranges are an ever-changing combination of sandstone, granite, basalt and limestone separated by wide valleys and high plateaux. Narrow roads with demanding hairpin turns climb up into the island’s heights, providing cyclists with unparalleled viewpoints over Sardinia’s extensive forests (50% of the land area), vast flatlands and sparkling seas. In fact, fully 25% of the island is environmentally protected.
RELATED
TOUR
Viva Italia
It has been said that ‘All roads lead to Rome’ and the Viva Italia cycling tour is simply more proof that this may indeed be the case...
Identity & Flavour: Sardinian Cuisine
Sardinia shares with the Japanese island of Okinawa the highest rate of centenarians – people over 100 years old – in the world (22 centenarians/100,000 inhabitants). One of the reasons for this is the local diet. It may not sound particularly healthy to some people’s minds – after all, the national dish is roasted suckling pig over hot coals – but the combination of fresh, local food, great weather and sunshine seems to work wonders. Of course, it might also be the Cannonau de Sardegna wines which tend to be high in anthocyanins and polyphenols, antioxidant-rich compounds which have been linked to heart health.
Traditional Mountain Villages
Some of Sardinia’s mountain villages have been around for well over 5,000 years and feature autumn feasts, pagan parades and a variety of local dialects (Sard, Sassarese, Corsican Gallurese, Algherese Catalan and Ligurian Tabarchino). Remarkably, almost each village on the island bakes its bread according to its own distinctive, traditional recipe. Set amongst towering peaks, along deep gorges, surrounded by vast forests, these settlements, with their steep winding lanes, will take cyclists back in time to a more relaxed age.
]]>Taiwan is known for its great cycling culture and its gorgeous scenery. There are also, however, a number of other, slightly more off the wall, reasons to cycle this island. Let’s take a look at 10 of them.
1. Rainbow Family Village, Taichung
The Nationalist Chinese army retreated to Taiwan after being defeated by Mao-Tse-Tung and the Communists. Here the soldiers were housed in temporary military settlements, some of which became permanent, like the Rainbow Village. Eventually, the residents moved away and developers moved in. Finally, only 87 year-old military veteran, Huang Yung-Fu, and 11 houses were left. Huang, now known as ‘Grandpa Rainbow’ decided to start painting the remaining buildings. Local university students discovered this work of ‘street art’ and began a campaign to save Huang’s work.
>>Cycle the Taiwan Coastal Loop on the Bamboo Road cycle tour
2. The Dome Of Light, Kaohsiung
The world’s largest glass work of art (30 m high, covers an area of 2,180 square metres with 4,500 glass panels) is located in the Formosa Boulevard MRT station. It took 4 years to complete and tells the story of human life in four chronologically arranged themes: Water: The Womb of Life; Earth: Prosperity and Growth; Light: The Creative Spirit; and Fire: Destruction and Rebirth, with an overall message of love and tolerance. The station itself is also the location of the Formosa incident in 1979, when protests against Taiwan’s then one-party state began the process towards democratization. Today, the country is one of the region’s most democratic.
3. Modern Toilet Restaurant, Taipei
photo credit: riNux on Flickr (CC BY-SA 2.0)
Holy shit! This ‘crappy’ eatery was inspired by a Japanese cartoon character named Dr. Slump whose favourite past time was “swirling poop on a stick”. The walls are decorated with shower heads, while plungers hang from the ceiling along with fæces-shaped lights. Chairs are actual non-functioning toilets, food is served in plastic miniature toilet bowls and drinks arrive in miniature urinals. Sound crazy? Maybe but the company now has 12 restaurants in Taiwan and Hong Kong with future locations planned in Macau and Kuala Lumpur. Mind you, Taiwan also has restaurants that resemble jailhouses and hospitals.
4. The High Heel Church, Chiayi
This extraordinary structure, 18m high and constructed of 320 blue-tinted panes set into a metal grid, was constructed to commemorate the blackfoot disease outbreak during the 1950s in Taiwan. Apparently a local girl contracted the disease and had to have the lower portions of her legs amputated, ending her engagement, and resulting in her spending the rest of her days alone and living in a church. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the church has received Guinness World Records certification as the world’s largest high-heel shoe-shaped structure. Not everyone loves it. One commentator wrote “What were the authorities thinking when they commission such a hideous-looking building in the area? It’s just disrespectful.”
>>5 Exciting Changes to the Bamboo Road (including Taiwan)
5. Bei Tou Incinerator Revolving Restaurant, Taipei
Looking for a romantic restaurant with a great view? Your search is over. Not only can the Bei-Tou Incinerator treat 1,800 tons of garbage from the Taipei area per day, it features a revolving restaurant 120 meters up its 150-meter-tall chimney. It seats 120 guests and is powered by energy from the incinerator. The views over Taipei are sublime and, perhaps fittingly, one of its feature dishes is pigeon.
6. Cartoon King Creative Park, Taichung
photo credit: by Jirka Matousek on Flickr (CC BY 2.0)
This park features all-cardboard exhibits like the Eiffel Tower, the Leaning Tower of Pisa and Big Ben, all set amongst windmills, sheep, monkeys, giraffes and cardboard trees with paper leaves. Tired of walking? No problem. A working cardboard train runs through the property. Hungry after exploring the cardboard garden? No worries. The park has, of course, a restaurant where the furnishings, decorations and crockery are all made of corrugated cardboard.
7. Houtong Cat Village
This village was once a prosperous mining town of over 6,000 people but once the coal industry began to decline the population eventually fell to under a hundred. Just another small town facing tough times. However, in 2008 a local cat lover organized volunteers to start offering the cats that had been left behind a better life. Social media was just gaining popularity and by posting photos of the cats online, they garnered an overwhelming response from the country and around the world. Drivers entering the town are now greeted with a sign that reads ‘A lot of stray cats here. Drive slowly.’ and a special bridge was constructed above the busy railway, to allow safe passage for the cats who now number well over 100. Shops in town are full of all manner of cat related items but it is still the cats themselves that are the main attraction. Meow!
8. Wanli UFO Village
Everything about Wanli is sketchy. What was once a beach resort, designed apparently for US soldiers, lies virtually abandoned. Locally known as the UFO village due to its distinctive Futuro pods (see photo), even its existence is debated with some claiming it has been demolished while others insist it is still there. Legend has it that the area is haunted by evil spirits. That during its construction there were suicides and unexplained accidents. That it was cursed because the remains of Dutch soldiers were dug up to make way for the resort. That a ceremonial Chinese dragon was destroyed. What’s the real story? You’ll have to pedal over to find out for yourself.
9. Tengfeng Fish Ball Museum, Taipei
While cycling in Taiwan it is almost inevitable that at some point you will have stopped at a roadside stall for a delicious bowl of fish ball soup. Seriously though, what do you really know about those crispy little balls of goodness? The Weixiang Fish Ball Shop was founded in 1950 and in 2004 they added the Dengfeng Fish Ball Museum in order, one assumes, to answer questions just like that. The balls are actually fish paste mixed together with vegetables and spices. In fact, the museum was created to promote Tamsui’s local fishing culture and tradition. Visitors can learn about the secrets of fishing products and even have a chance to roll their own fish balls by hand.
10. Ice Cream Burrito, Night Markets
A Taiwan exclusive – Take a flour crepe and cover it in fine pieces of peanut brittle. Add three scoops of ice cream, likely in flavours like pineapple, taro, or peanut. Sprinkle some cilantro and then fold the edges in and roll up the contents into a magical, tasty creation. The combination of flavours and textures achieves a balance of creamy, crunchy, chewy, sweet, herbal, tart and nutty. A perfectly yummy way to celebrate the end to another day of cycling in Taiwan.
]]>Madagascar is one of the most recent areas on earth to be inhabited by humans. As well it’s physical separation from the African continent allowed it’s flora and fauna to evolve in a different direction from Africa, and indeed the rest of the world. Travellers have been amazed at it’s incredible diversity and beauty for centuries, and is well known by westerners as seen through the eyes of Sir David Attenborough in his BBC documentary series.
It is also an island that has attracted cycle tourists, who are dreaming of a adventurous ride through this beautiful, hospitable country. Our Magical Madagascar tour crosses from the southern shore, in Ifaty, to Nosy Be Island in the north. From our experience running this supported tour, we are happy to share with you a few tips we’ve learned on the way.
1. Start in the South
There are no guarantees with wind directions, but from our experience the most consistent winds blow from the southwest/west.
RELATED
TOUR
2. Time of Year
The best time of year is May and June or September and October. These are the drier seasons, as well as the most temperate overall weather wise.
3. Use the Paved Roads
Madagascar is not blessed with an enormous amount of paved roads, but the main ones heading north/south, are great for cycling and allow you to stop in at many highlights along the way. Other than roads near the Capital city of Tana, there is not an abundant amount of vehicular traffic. That said, the paved roads are not always in the best of shape. A pure road type bike is not advisable, a touring or gravel style bike that you can have wider tires on should do the trick!
4. Bring your bike on a River Journey
One of the most unique experiences in Madagascar is taking a riverboat journey, and experiencing the remote flora, fauna and village life along the river shores. Our own Magical Madagascar tour allows us to spend 2 days on the Tsiribihina River, on the way towards the Mozambique Channel.
5. Don’t miss the Avenue of the Baobabs and Nosy Be Island
You can see a thousand photos of the Avenue of the Baobabs, but much like the Pyramids of Giza or other great wonders of the world, their majesty is startling. Try to time your arrival there to in morning or evening hours for the best light. Also, if you’re cycling from the direction of Belo Tsiribihina, be aware that the road is all sand! Bring wide tires, and pack as much water as you can, as there is little population on that road.
Nosy Be Island is the perfect place to finish your journey, head to the more remote, north west of the Island, there you will find serene beaches, amazing snorkelling possibilities, delicious fresh fish and you can spend your last days in Madagascar with your bike resting right along side your tired legs.
]]>Mystical Patagonia has stirred the imaginations of travellers for centuries. Its sparsely populated, wild, and beautiful lands extend down the triangle at the southern end of South America from approximately latitude 40°S to Tierra del Fuego, encompassing the Aísen, Magallanes, and part of Los Lagos regions in Chile, together with the Argentinian provinces south of the Rio Negro.
>>Check out our supported cycling tour of Patagonia
The narrow Chilean side and the cross-border frontier areas are dominated by formations carved by the last ice age, including jagged Andean peaks, U-shaped valleys, glacial lakes, ice fields, and crystal clear rivers. In stark contrast the rest of Patagonian Argentina is a vast wind swept emptiness of semi arid scrub plateau.
Turquoise River and Purple Lupines
In recent years, Patagonia has become a mecca for long distance cycle tourists. Typically they follow 2 renowned and incredibly scenic routes, Chile’s Carretera Austral and Argentina’s Ruta 40. Unless you are a glutton for brutal winds, the best itinerary may be a combination of both, crossing over the Andes between Esquel, Argentina and the white water rafting haven of Futaleufu, Chile, or further south after you tire of being buffeted by the punishing westerlies.
Carretera Austral
Many choose to ride the entire 1247 km length of the rugged Carretera Austral, starting in the port city of Puerto Montt, where one can indulge in seafood and pisco sours, and stock up on spare parts and outdoor adventure clothing before hitting the road. The legendary Carretera is about 60% gravel with some rough, corrugated stretches, and 40% paved, with more pavement slowly being added every year. En route you will take 5 ferries and spin through temperate rain forest and national reserves, across icy cold rivers and mountain passes, and past isolated farms, smoking volcanoes and snowy peaks. While there are a few long climbs and descents between watersheds, the physical challenges are not extreme and a small price to pay for pedalling past one magnificent and isolated scene after another.
After restoring your energy and replenishing supplies at the midway point in the small city of Coyhaique, the road traverses la Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo before hugging the shoreline of Lago General Carrera and the banks of swirling Rio Baker. The settlement of Cochrane provides the last well equipped general store before the gravel stretch to the tiny frontier and glacial lakeside town of Villa O’Higgins where the Carretera officially ends.
credit: Carretera Austral map by B1mbo under CC-BY-SA-2.5
Lago General Carrera
The Gauntlet: Villa O’Higgins to El Chaltén Border Crossing
From there the cross border trek through no man’s land – involving two ferries, a 22 km slog thru muddy woods, and a final 37 km of off-road to the Argentinian backpacker haven of El Chaltén is one of the most fabled in the world of South American cycle touring. Technically it can be done in one long day, but the ferries are weather dependent so bring plenty of food, warm clothing and a tent, in case of a storm or nasty winds.
The alternative route from Chile to El Chaltén, for support vehicles and less intrepid cyclists, is to turn east just before Cochrane and climb up the stunning Valle de Chacabuco past flocks of guanaco to the Paso Roballos border post, joining up with Ruta 40 at the god forsaken outpost of Baja Caracoles. From there however it’s a 500 km battle against the winds to El Chaltén.
Cycling Argentina’s Ruta 40
The alpine town of San Carlos de Bariloche, on the shores of immense Nahuel Huapi lake, is a base for trekking, kayaking and mountain biking, and a natural starting point for the ride south along Argentina’s Ruta Nacional 40, the long and largely paved highway that runs the length of the country. Bariloche also offers popular side trips including the renowned Seven Lakes route and the trans-Andes ferries and cycling ride into Chile.
South of Bariloche, iconic Ruta 40 skirts Lagos Gutierrez and Mascardi, and offers beautiful views of Cerro Catedral Sur. After passing the town of El Bolsón, cyclists can choose between two routes to Esquel, Most opt for the more scenic and secondary Ruta Provincial 71 via Cholila, meaning “beautiful valley” in Mapuche, where the bandits Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid built a ranch and hide out. In Esquel, you can trade your bike for a ride on the Old Patagonian Express, which still has weekly departures but only runs 20 km to Nahuel Pan.
The Notorious Patagonian Winds
Provided you opt to stay in Argentina rather than cross into Chile, south of Esquel the pampas begin and the infamous winds truly take hold, testing your will and skill. This is Patagonia’s most empty and desolate stretch where the distances between backwater town are longer, supplies and services are more expensive, and there is little to see along the roadside beyond merino sheep and the occasional guanaco. Just north of Perito Moreno, the junction with Ruta 43 offers one more chance to detour into Chile via Lago Buenos Aires before the desolate run to Baja Caracoles and beyond. For those continuing on Ruta 40 a major highlight is the UNESCO-listed Cueva de las Manos (Cave of Hands), reached by gravel side road, where archaeologists found 9,000-year-old stencilled handprints and galloping guanacos painted by ancient peoples.
Guanacos alongside Ruta 40 in Santa Cruz province
All told it’s over 1,100 km from Esquel to El Chaltén along Ruta 40, including the final 80 km up the shores of Lago Viedma into what will likely be a brutal headwind. But if you are lucky skies will be clear and the views of Mount Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and the Glaciar Viedma spectacular, and when you finally arrive in El Chaltén, you can indulge in life’s comforts, including its many bars and restaurants while revelling in the supernatural scenery.
Southern Patagonia
Los Glaciares national park extends across the huge Southern Patagonian ice field, from the towering Fitz Roy Massif to Lago Argentino, created by the Perito Moreno glacier. Leaving El Chaltén, its 80 km of brisk tailwinds followed by 120 km of head and crosswinds to El Calafate, the upmarket tourist center on the shores of the turquoise-coloured Lago.
Perito Moreno glacier & Lago Argentino, photo credit: Ladislav Kamarád
From there another 2-3 days of wind blown peddling, some of it on dirt, will take you back into Chile at Cerro Castillo, bound for another of Patagonia’s star attractions, Torres del Paine. This world renowned park features trekking, horseback, and mountaineering circuits, great campsites, superlative hotels, and the chance to see guanaco and condor against jaw dropping landscapes.
Cycling at Torres del Paine, photo credit: Timothy Dhalleine / Twitter @tdhalleine
The final stretch takes one first to Puerto Natales, a formerly modest fishing port on Seno Ùltima Esperanza that has become a tourist mecca as the gateway to Torres del Paine and the southern terminus of the ferry trip from Puerto Montt through the Chilean fjords. Artesanal beers, delicious restaurant fare, cozy lodgings, and kickback views along the waterfront are among its many attractions.
King crab and avocado sandwich for lunch in Puerto Natales
Then it’s on to Punta Arenas, an important port before the opening of the Panama Canal, as reflected in its stately mansions and location astride the Magellan Strait. Today it’s a seafood paradise and the gateway for Antarctica expeditions. For some, Punta Arenas will mark the end of their Patagonian adventure, but for others the huge Island of Tierra del Fuego, beckoning across the strait, is the ultimate goal. The ferry crossing to Porvenir takes 3-4 hours followed by a final 475 km ride across this windswept archipelago to Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city, perched on the tip of South America, overlooking the Beagle channel.
Getting to Patagonia
Getting to Patagonia is straightforward. After flying into Santiago, Chile, or Buenos Aires, Argentina, domestic jets will take you to Puerto Montt, Coyhaique, Bariloche, or El Calafate and homeward bound from Punta Arenas or Ushuaia. Most nationalities do not require a visa to enter Chile. Citizens of some western countries require an easily obtained Argentinian reciprocity visa in advance while others, including Americans, do not.
When to Go
The best months to go are from November to March, when the daytime temperature reaches the low twenties in northern Patagonia and the low-mid teens at Ushuaia and Punta Arenas. Expect all conditions – warm, cold, sun, wind, perfect days, and storms. And that’s in the southern summer. Any other time of year would be a bold undertaking, with short days and cold, blustery weather. Note that South Americans holiday in January and February, so November, December and March are ideal.
Where to Stay
Patagonia is wild camping nirvana, unbelievable scenery and isolation at its best. Rarely will you need to camp more than one night in a row as the small towns typically have a handful of cheap, friendly family run hosterias which also offer meals. For those not on a budget, the riverside fly fishing lodges, estancias (ranches), and upmarket accommodations in the tourist centers offer luxury and the opportunity to sample fine wines and dine on local specialities, including Patagonian lamb, Argentinian beef and the ubiquitous seafood.
Type of Bike and Gear to Bring
Hard tail mountain bikes and cyclocross bikes are best suited for a trans-Patagonia cycling expedition. Buy the best rear (and front) racks you can find as they will take a pounding on some of the rougher stretches which can include a fair amount of corrugation. Carry all the essential spare parts you need for your bike, as well as a water filter for when you are in the wilderness and there is no fast flowing mountain stream or river nearby. The better your equipment – including gortex rain gear, warm layers, an all season tent, and extra tent pegs to combat the wind – the less likely you will encounter a setback and the more enjoyable your trip of a lifetime will be.
Torres del Paine & Condor, photo credit: Timothy Dhalleine / Twitter @tdhalleine
Further Reading
There is a great deal of useful information online for this region. Here are several of my sources and other sites and blogs I came across while putting this piece together.
11 Best Bike Touring Destinations in the World – Cycling About
Patagonia Region, Argentina – Encyclopedia Britanica
Sublime Carretera Austral – Cycling with Serendipity
10 Questions: Cycling Patagonia – TravellingTwo
Carretera Austral and Patagonia – CrazyGuyOnABike
Guide to Patagonia – Guardian Travel
Patagonia Trip of a Lifetime – Telegraph Travel
Patagonia – Lonely Planet
A Single Track Mind – TDA Global Cycling blog
And if you are looking for a supported cycling tour thru Patagonia consider joining us on the South American Epic as it passes thru Patagonia.
Closing Thoughts
Do it now! Patagonia is changing, the Carretera Austral is being paved, the gauntlet between Villa O’Higgins and El Chaltén may soon be replaced by a road and bridges, so … if you want to experience this magnificent region at its wildest you are starting to run out of time.
That’s me loving Parque Pumalin in Patagonia last year
Lastly. here is some advice from one of my fellow cyclists for those considering this cycling adventure…
“Be prepared to face some of the harshest conditions from weather to the route to the camping.Be prepared to cycle in some of the most scenic and desolate areas on earth. Be prepared for the awe. Expect the unexpected!” – Lorry Schmidt (Canada)
Brian Hoeniger works for TDA Global Cycling and cycled the Carretera Austral segment of the 2015 South American Epic. Registration is now open for the next edition starting in July 2017.
]]>1. Top Food at a low price.
Where else can you stop anywhere at any time and get a wonderful freshly cooked meal full of great spices and herbs? Where else can you have an open market meal that is tastier and fresher than any fancy restaurant and costs one hundredth of the price?
2. Great quiet roads.
Some countries such as Laos and Cambodia have very little traffic; in others there are plenty of country roads with little traffic and courteous drivers. The locals actually think that cyclists have the right to be on the roads.
3. Culture, culture, culture.
Cycling gives you a great opportunity to experience the cultural diversity, traditions, foods, customs and beliefs. Is there a better way to experience local culture than cycling through small places and big ones, sleeping in local hotels and corner restaurants and meeting the locals?
4. Say Wat.
Visiting historical places such as Angkor Wat is without any doubt best done on a bicycle. Just ask those who have tried it.
5. More bang for your Thai baht.
Your dollar, pound, euro or rand can stretch further in Southeast Asia than in most other places around the world.
6. Friendly folks.
South East Asia has the friendliest people on earth and it is very safe to cycle anywhere in the region.
7. Connected.
South East Asia has a well-developed modern infrastructure so if you need to use the internet or an ATM machine you are never too far from one.
8. Start in a jungle, end on a beach.
With a bicycle you will cycle through some of the lushest scenery only to end up in some of the most amazing beaches in the world with nobody on them.
9. Capital cities.
In a few weeks of cycling, you can see some of the most grandiose metropolises in the world: Bangkok, Hanoi, Kuala Lampur, Phnom Penh, Singapore.
10. Drinks and snacks.
Because if you get off the bike in Laos, you can always have a great ‘Beerlao’; if you need a break in Vietnam, you can always have a Vietnamese coffee; if you get an unexpected hunger attack in Cambodia, you can wave down the guy cycling beside you and buy a baguette from his large basket; and if you feel like trying something really local in Malaysia, you can have ‘Tea Tarik’ made from black tea and condensed milk.
11. Strange and wonderful fruit.
Because you can stop anytime, anywhere and buy the tastiest mango, rambutan, dragon fruit, jack fruit, mangosteen, lotus flower seeds, sapodilla, longan, papaya, pomelo, guava and, if you dare, a durian or two.
12. Massaging those cycling legs.
Because after a long day on a bike, you can get a great massage that will not put you into debt. Most towns will have basic, but reputable massage shops. For less than $20, you can get a well deserved massage to help recuperate your tired body.
Join Tour d’Afrique in South East Asia on the Bamboo Road bicycle tour
]]>