Note that the planned Trans-Caucasus cycling tour involving Armenia is not currently being offered. Please take a look at our tour finder to see our many other options around the world.

For 2024, we have moved the start line of the Trans-Caucasus Cycling Adventure to Yerevan, Armenia. The country’s capital since 1918, it is one of the world’s oldest cities, having been inhabited since 782 BC. Participants should seriously consider spending a few days exploring this fascinating city before the start of their cycling adventure through Armenia, Georgia and Turkey. Here are 10 sights not to be missed.

1 – The Matenadaran

Armenia has an ancient literary history but over the centuries, its libraries have been ransacked by invaders and many treasures were lost or destroyed. In 1959, the government decided to build a central location for the country’s manuscripts and other documents. Hence, the Matenadaran. It holds over 20,000 manuscripts, including the oldest Armenian manuscript in the world, the 7th century Vehamor Gospel.

2 – Katoghike Church

This is the church within a church and was originally built in the 13th century. In the 1600’s another, larger church was built over this one and in 1936, when the larger structure was being torn down for redevelopment, this tiny ancient church was ‘discovered’. After a public outcry, the small church was saved and religious services now once again take place here.

3 – Sergei Parajanov Museum

Have you ever heard of the 1969 film, The Color of Pomegranates directed by the Armenian director Sergei Parajanov? I haven’t and am pretty sure most of you don’t recognize the names either. Yet, according to Wikipedia, “Parajanov is regarded by film critics, film historians and filmmakers to be one of the greatest and most influential filmmakers in cinema history.” A visit to this museum will enlighten you to his story under Soviet rule which included being persecuted and imprisoned and introduce you to his impressive body of work in cinema.

4 – Spider Statue

Yerevan has a surprising amount of public art and one of the most striking pieces is the Spider statue, centrally located in Charles Aznavour Square (named for the French Armenian singer). It is the work of Armenian artist Ara Alekyan and was created after the 1988 earthquake that devastated the country. He saw in the wreckage of the city all sorts of metal debris which he then collected and welded together to create this distinctive piece.

5 – Cafesjian Center for the Arts & Yerevan Cascade

A giant limestone staircase with 572 steps, the Cascade connects 2 distinct neighbourhoods in downtown Yerevan. It is decorated with gardens, fountains and sculptures and offers visitors great views of both the city and of distant Mt Ararat. The Cafesjian Centre for the Arts is located in and around the Cascade and offers up displays of contemporary art. When it opened the New York Times commented that is was, “a mad work of architectural megalomania and architectural recovery, (…) one of the strangest and most spectacular museum buildings to open in ages.”

6 – Blue Mosque

In this city of churches, the Blue Mosque, built in 1765, is the only active Islamic place of worship in Yerevan. During the Soviet years, it was not operational but with the help of the current Iranian government, it now functions as a Shia mosque once again for the country’s Muslim community. It is well worth a visit for its elaborate design and tranquil grounds.

7 – Vernissage Market

This open-air arts and crafts market offers up endless possibilities for shoppers. The items for sale are usually made by the vendors who have them on display but the quality can vary widely so pay close attention. You can purchase carpets, Soviet-era memorabilia, old books, paintings and just about anything else you can imagine. The market is open daily but the number of vendors increases on the weekend. Bargaining is expected and you may have to down a shot of vodka to seal your deal.

8 – The Garni Temple

Located about a 40 minute drive (or 2 hour bike ride!) from Yerevan, the Garni Temple is a fine example of Christian Armenia’s pagan past. It was built somewhere in the first century BC and was dedicated to Mihr, the pagan god of light and the sun. It was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1679 but was painstakingly rebuilt during the years 1969 – 1975 using many of the original stones.

9 – The Pink City

Many of the buildings in Yerevan were constructed during the Soviet era and during that time a favourite construction material was something called tuff. This was a compacted volcanic ash that had a distinctive pink colour that was widely available locally. The widespread use of tuff over the years means that the city, especially at sunrise and sunset, gives off a subtle rosy glow. Visitors should try to find a suitable viewpoint at these times to see why Yerevan is referred to as the ‘Pink City’.

10 – Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum

A sobering visit to the this memorial and museum will help people understand Armenia’s tragic past and its current outlook. It commemorates the 1915 -1922 massacre of Armenians by the Ottoman Empire. The 12 basalt slabs hovering over the eternal flame represent the western provinces lost to Turkey after World War 1 while a towering spire represents the survival of the Armenian people and their culture.

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Note that the planned Trans-Caucasus cycling tour involving Armenia is not currently being offered. Please take a look at our tour finder to see our many other options around the world.

“Laughter relieves us of superfluous energy, which, if it remained unused, might become negative, that is, poison. Laughter is the antidote.”  – George Gurdjieff

The music was haunting, spiritual, beautiful. “What are you listening to?” I asked Ruth, who was sitting in the living room. “The Gurdjieff Ensemble, you should watch and listen to this,” she responded. I had heard of Gurdjieff, the Armenian born philosopher, mystic and spiritual teacher but I had no idea that he also composed music. Ruth, of course, knows that in less than a year our company will, for the first-time ever, cycle in Armenia as part of the 2024 Trans-Caucasus Cycling Adventure. And so, I went over to listen to and watch the video.

I have never been to Armenia, though I have heard much about it. During my university studies at McGill, I befriended a fellow newcomer from Lebanon, of Armenian origin. We found a common language, which was not difficult as both our families suffered from the 20th century’s two most horrific attempts to eliminate whole communities. We shared a bond that came from being surrounded by survivors. After McGill, Ara and I went our separate ways only to reconnect years later here in Toronto. By now the Soviet Union had fallen apart and Armenia has become an independent country. Ara, now a successful businessman, was very involved with the Armenian community here in Toronto as well as in rehabilitation efforts back in Armenia itself. He would often tell me about his beloved Armenia and the reasons that our company should make a point of cycling there. “You will not regret it”, he would insist.

Over the years TDA added a number of new trips but somehow Armenia wasn’t yet part of our repertoire of tours. Until this year. Miles, our Operation Manager, went to Armenia to scout a route and in his report from the trip he wrote, “Armenia is truly an incredible destination, not only for cycling, but for its history, culture, culinary richness and geography.”

According to Britanica.com, George Ivanovich Gurdjieff, who grew up in the mountainous plateau of Armenia, taught that, “human life as ordinarily lived is similar to sleep; transcendence of the sleeping state required work, but, when it was achieved, an individual could reach remarkable levels of vitality and awareness.” In 1919 he established a school in Tbilisi, Georgia  (the next country the cyclists on the Trans-Caucasus Cycling Adventure will be cycling after Armenia) called the Institute for the Harmonious Development of Man. He eventually relocated the Institute to Paris and to this day there are followers of his Fourth Way. “Combining the three commonly known ways of enlightenment — physical, spiritual, and emotional — The Fourth Way presents a new way of reaching enlightenment, a more effective combination of the three known ways.” I doubt that I or any of the other participants will find enlightenment on our cycling tour in Armenia, Georgia and Turkey but biking in the area will certainly give us a better understanding and context to Gurdjieff’s philosophy and his perspective on life on this planet.

Interestingly, after cycling in Georgia the riders will be riding through Turkey and the first rest day in that country is in the city of  Kars. According to Wikipedia, “Gurdjieff spent his childhood in Kars, which, from 1878 to 1918, was the administrative capital of the Russian-ruled Transcaucasus province of Kars Oblast, a border region recently captured from the Ottoman Empire. It contained extensive grassy plateau-steppe and high mountains, and was inhabited by a multi-ethnic and multi-confessional population that had a history of respect for travelling mystics and holy men, and for religious syncretism and conversion. Both the city of Kars and the surrounding territory were home to an extremely diverse population: although part of the Armenian Plateau, Kars Oblast was home to Armenians, Russians, Caucasus Greeks, Georgians, Turks, Kurds and smaller numbers of Christian communities from eastern and central Europe such as Caucasus Germans, Estonians and Russian sectarian communities like the Molokans, Doukhobors, Pryguny, and Subbotniks.” Wikipedia further explains that Subbotniks (Sabbatarians) is a common name for adherents of Russian religious movements that split from Sabbatarian sects in the late 18th century.

Reading all about this made me wish I was sitting across from Ara. I owe my existence to a family of Sabbatarians in Slovakia, who literally risked their lives during WWII and saved my father from certain death. Now I think of Ara and I wish that I could hear his thoughtful laughter and talk about the Gurdjieff Ensemble and our lives. Unfortunately, my friend Ara passed away a year and half ago. He was a great friend, a family man of integrity and passions. I have no idea whether he studied the Fourth Way but what I do know is that he had lived with “a remarkable level of vitality and awareness.” The last time I saw him, he told me, “I have no regrets. I had a good life.”

Carahunge, Karahunj, Armenia

And now, as I write this with the Gurdjieff ensemble playing on the screen, displaying the landscape behind and around the ensemble, on the plateau in the Karahunj prehistoric archeological site in the Syunik province of Armenia, I am wondering why it took us so long to bicycle in this part of the world. In any case, if you haven’t done it yet, watch and listen to the Gurdjieff Ensemble playing traditional Armenian and Middle Eastern instruments whose repertoire includes music from the Middle East, ancient and medieval Armenian folk and spiritual music, troubadours songs from the Caucasus and others.  It may even prompt you to sign up for our tour.

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Note that the planned Trans-Caucasus cycling tour involving Armenia is not currently being offered. Please take a look at our tour finder to see our many other options around the world.

The 2024 Trans-Caucasus cycling adventure will include TDA’s first ever visit to Armenia, and after having scouted the route in Armenia recently, it has surpassed all expectations. Armenia is truly an incredible destination, not only for cycling, but for its history, culture, culinary richness and geography.

Yerevan, Armenia

Those joining us in 2024 should plan to arrive to Yerevan, the capital, at least a few days before the tour begins. The cosmopolitan city’s centre is a great feat of early 20th century city planning by the Armenian architect Alexandre Tamanyan. Lush, tree lined streets with their red hued “tuff” stone buildings offer many incredible restaurants and cafes to explore. The local tastes include Lahmacun, “Armenian pizza”, as well as dishes influenced by the empires which are part of Armenia’s history, such as Persian, Russian and Ottoman. Along the streets sit vendors selling an abundant array of local produce from the small villages surrounding Yerevan. No one should leave Armenia without trying the brandy, a favourite of Stalin, who famously served it to Winston Churchill at the Yalta conference at the end of World War II, the “Cognac of the Caucasus”.

Many first-time visitors are struck by the mountainous terrain of the country, and how incredibly green the slopes of those mountains are. In May the mountain flowers are beginning to bloom adding blasts of colour along the way. Trans-Caucasus riders will start cycling from Khor Virap, a monastery just to the south of Yerevan. It is where Gregory the Illuminator, an early Christian, spent over a decade in a dungeon prison, before convincing King Trdat III to have Armenia adopt Christianity. With Mt. Ararat as its backdrop, the setting is a special way to begin our cycling journey.

Khor Virap

The Trans-Caucasus first day will pass through Armenia’s wine centre, Areni, named for the local grape variety, and for those who will be on the tour, it’s already in the plans to bring some of these bottles for all to try at our first camp location further along the road. Wine has been made in current day Armenia for at least 5000 years, including in the location of Areni itself. Wine is a deeply rooted part of the local culture, and despite the Soviet’s attempt to focus their empires wine production in Georgia and for Armenia’s grapes to go towards brandy, wine production in Armenia has flourished once again since the late 1990’s.

13th century caravanserai

The first mountain pass to cross on our ride in Armenia will be the Selim pass on our 2nd day. The gradients are gradual overall, and the pavement is mostly quite good, but a strong effort will be required climbing the switchbacks nearing the top at approximately 2400m. Just before the summit lies one of the best-preserved caravanserais in the Caucasus, where from 700 years ago and onwards Persian and Armenian traders would stay with their animals while traversing the pass. In the present day the caravanserai is the perfect spot to take a rest and enjoy the amazing vistas before descending to Martuni and the shores of Lake Sevan.

Lake Sevan, Armenia

The tour will have a couple days of riding to enjoy the views of Lake Sevan, a high-altitude fresh water lake at the heart of Armenia geographically and referred to as the “Jewel of Armenia”. Armenians come from Yerevan for summer vacations to the western side of the lake, but on the eastern side, where the tour cycles, tucked up against the mountains and near the Azerbaijan border the area is unpopulated and not often visited. A perfect place to camp for the night and enjoy the dark sky rich with stars.

Dilijan, Armenia

Dilijan is where the tour will spend its rest day in Armenia. The “Switzerland of Armenia”, it is nestled in the densely forested mountains, at a slightly lower elevation than Lake Sevan. A famed spa resort and sanatorium town during Soviet times. After the collapse of the Soviet Union the number of visitors greatly reduced, and while there are still spas to enjoy in the small city, the nearby Dilijan national park has become the main attraction, along with multiple monasteries in the forests which can be visited on a day trip.

Pushkin Pass, Armenia

The Pushkin pass, named after the famous Russian writer who traveled the road in the 19th century, is the last great challenge our tour will face before departing Armenia into Georgia. With its rough road and incredible switchbacks and even more incredible vistas it will be a rewarding as well as punishing feat to cycle over it. After descending from the heights of the pass the famous Pine Forests of Lori region await.

Armenia is truly an amazing country to explore by bicycle. It took a very long time for TDA to bring a tour through Armenia, and we are very happy that the time has now arrived. We believe you’ll be amazed at all this country has to offer.

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“Your gonna remember those moments in between where you get to interact with folks…see sights you might not have noticed if you were so focused on the destination.”

“For me it’s true adventure. Everyday there has been a meaningful encounter to increase my understanding of how other people live and function…and helps me understand myself.”

Last year we created the Trans-Caucasus tour during a time when many of the other countries in the region were still not open and accessible for our cycling tours. At first it was a stand-in for our larger Silk Route tour but after a successful first trip, we are making it a permanent part of our calendar of tours. It is now scheduled to run again in 2024 and will include Armenia as well!

>>Learn more about the updated 2024 Trans-Caucasus route

With the help of our talented Content Creator – Mats Fredrix – we were able to produce this wonderful 3-part video series to share with everyone some of the highlights from Georgia and Turkiye and to hear directly from the participants on their experiences. We are very happy to share the resulting video with you now. Please read on below the video where we ask the filmmaker a few questions about the challenges of filming on the road and what advice he has for those considering to ride the Trans-Caucasus tour in the future.

Videographer Mats Fredrix from Belgium on His Biggest Challenges and Advice for Future Participants

Tell us about making this video series… what were the biggest challenges?

I think the hardest part was trimming everything down. I approached my interviews with the riders very much like normal conversations, often with a cup of tea or something similar, and I am really happy I did. Everyone had such interesting things to say and points of view. As a result our conversations went into all directions, sometimes ones that brought a big smile to our faces, but we also touched on less cheerful subjects. As cycling is a mental practice, in one way or another. So often, as is my habit, it turned quite philosophical, and we ended up pondering into the depths of our minds why the hell we like riding our damn bike so much. As you’d expect it ended up being a mountain of material. Choosing which topics to go for and which to cut, the famous process called ‘killing your darlings’ is inevitable when telling this kind of story, so I decided to work around the big themes everyone talked about. Things people often unanimously agreed on, but sometimes their takes ended up being almost complete counter opposites. It was these things I felt would be most interesting for someone who’s into long-distance bike riding and feels drawn to these countries or this tour.

What impressed you / surprised you about the participants of the tour?

As it was my second TDA tour, everyone’s mental and physical toughness wasn’t something that I was blown away by anymore. Though I did often remind myself that this isn’t a normal feat, what everyone out there is doing. I think what impressed me the most was everyone’s thirst for interaction with everything and everyone they were passing. Rather than getting the often long, and often very hot days over as quickly as possible, everyone treated their time on the bike as special. Whatever they saw, whoever they talked to along the way that is what they’re paying for. It is often these things we ended up talking about in our interviews, and it is these stories that we will remember for a long time to come.

What advice do you have for someone considering joining the tour in the future?

First of all, I’d advice somehow, inventing a very strong liking for oatmeal. The going can get really tough without that into your morning TDA routine. Seriously though, I think the tour offers a unique perspective on two completely different people [in Georgia and Turkiye]; culture, way of life and history. They’re separated by nothing but a line in the sand. And it truly special to feel this change crossing that line with a bike. However different both countries on the Trans-Caucasus tour are, there’s one thing that is exactly the same: there’s never-ending, calf-biting climbs on both sides of the border, so I’d suggest not overlooking that granny-gear when choosing your rear cassette.

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Note that the planned Trans-Caucasus cycling tour involving Armenia is not currently being offered. Please take a look at our tour finder to see our many other options around the world.

We are excited to share the expanded version of our popular Trans-Caucasus cycling tour. It will be the same route in Georgia and Turkiye, but we have added an additional week at the beginning of the tour in Armenia.

The 2024 Trans-Caucasus: Yerevan to Istanbul! This 38 day tour includes 9 rest days in fascinating places like Armenia’s Lake Sevan, Tbilisi (Georgia’s culinary and state capital), Lagodekhi (next to a national park) and the classic Ottoman centres of Erzurum, Şebinkarahisar, Amasya and Safranbolu.

>>Find the tour schedule, dates and prices here

Armenia

“Few nations have histories as ancient, complex and laced with tragedy as Armenia (ՀԱՅԱՍՏԱՆ). And even fewer have a culture that is as rich and resilient. This is a destination where you will be intrigued by history, awed by monuments, amazed by the landscape and charmed by down-to-earth locals. It’s not an easy place to explore – roads are rough, transport is often hard to navigate and those who don’t speak Armenian or Russian may find communication difficult – but travelling here is as rewarding as it is revelatory.” – Lonely Planet

Georgia

“To this day TDA’s time in Georgia has stood out amongst the many other travels our tours have taken us. For a geographically small country, it is extremely diverse in cultural history, languages, architecture and natural beauty. From the heights of the greater Caucasus to bountiful lakes and forests, and from the European fashioned architecture of the cities to the ruins of castles and ancient monasteries in the rural hills.” – from our blog

Turkiye

“Many of the riders were quick to mention the momentous change they sensed rolling into Cildir, a tiny city [in Turkiye] right on the border. There was a warmth there, and a forthcoming attitude that was simply striking after encountering a much more reserved – though always friendly and helpful – attitude from the Georgians. It was the hustle and bustle in the little cafés by the side of the road that did the trick, men playing boardgames and shouting ‘merabah’ or ‘Welcome to Turkey’ and offering us our first çays (tea).” – from our blog

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Mats Fredrix was the Content Creator for the 2022 Trans-Caucasus Cycling Tour. He sends his last report from Istanbul, Turkey.

A border crossing stage isn’t exactly one of the days on tour you would describe as ‘relaxing’. On the Trans-Caucasus tour, the ‘what could go wrong’ chatter among staff was rising exponentially, pretty much in parallel with the riders’ excitement to get to Turkey. Both had been building up for a few days. You could sense the climax was near when the two-wheeled circus set up camp about 20km from the Georgian-Turkish border, near a tiny place called Bozali.

The camp was a text-book example of a TDA bush camp, without a bush in sight. There was dry farmland as far as the eye could see, spotted by the moving shadows of the clouds. You could see a herd of cattle coming – of course directly your way – from over half an hour away. All-in-all, a picture-perfect ending to the Georgian chapter of the tour.

The first indication that the next couple of days were going to be rather eventful popped up a few kilometres out of camp. It was the tour’s first – but certainly not last – 140+ km day, a taste of the grind that was waiting for them on the other side of the border.

Photo credit: @pedalling_pete

There was a traffic jam over two kilometres long, exclusively consisting of cargo trucks, blocking the entire right hand side of the road on the way to the border. With close to no traffic on the other side, the riders slalomed through effortlessly, with plenty of ‘gamarjobas’ (hello in Georgian) and already a couple of the first ‘merhabas’ (hello in Turkish) being thrown back and forth. At the end of the swirling queue, lay the reason for the commotion. An overly eager truck driver had tried to overtake and some ill-fated timing made it end in disaster. Like a lego-cube it had tumbled on its side, and slid down into the ditch below. A forklift truck attempting to rescue the broken truck was in the middle of the action, creating the very slow moving caterpillar-like crawl into Turkey even as the cargo customs car park was barely a few meters further along the road. Patience, it’s something we’d all have to learn soon enough.

The border crossing itself was tiny, but scenic, located next to a lake, the Kartsakhi. The road is usually only frequented by cargo truck traffic, so a herd of 18 cyclists was surely completely unheard of and promised to be quite the momentous phenomenon. Patience was again paramount, sure, but it was also much more stress-free than any of us had imagined. This was, with the blessing of hindsight, largely due to something we’d all be witnessing and experiencing first hand for the next couple of weeks: genuine Turkish warmth and hospitality.

Going near a border, it’s almost a reflex to stow away any device that has a camera on it – and these days that is a lot – especially if you are the Content Creator on a TDA tour. On the Eastern border of Turkey, however, this memo clearly had never arrived. Group pictures in front of the Turkey sign were not a problem, and even encouraged, some would say.

Photo credit:@murraybeare

This very laid-back relationship with the law in Turkey continued for almost all of our Turkish journey from East to West. Traffic control agents proved incredibly kind, helping us out with water and often asking if they could have a picture with us. Once an officer even asked if he could take my ride for a spin. It is quite an odd feeling, refusing a police officer a joy ride on your wheels.

English isn’t a thing in Eastern Anatolia, however, that often did not necessarily mean you’d have to resort to your hands and feet for communication. Though they undoubtedly saw very few Westerners and even fewer clad like we were – it wasn’t like, as one of the riders described it, we were aliens to them. They were very aware of who we were and even what we were doing. It was more the ‘why’ that induced the frowns and question mark shaped faces.

The roads we experienced on our first week through Turkey were impeccable, but also almost completely deserted. A very smooth and enjoyable ride on a bike for sure, but it also brought up the painful question whether the people in this region really benefited in any way from such smooth as marble asphalt.

The locals had come up with very practical, modern way of communicating with us Westerners. I experienced it first hand riding sweep the day of the border crossing and having a lunch sandwich by the side of the road on one of the very first – and not certainly not last – Turkish climbs. An elderly man came over to me, phone in hand. He thrust it towards me and a woman started talking to me in near to fluent English. It turned out to be his niece, functioning as a full- fledged translator and relaying the man’s unrelenting offers of help or a place to rest and stay. Only when I had assured him I was very much ok, and was doing this ‘for my pleasure’ – was I really? – he turned away, very much confused as to why I didn’t want to just catch a ride with him to Ardahan, our final destination for the day.

Others were very quick to pull up a translation app on their phones, which worked surprisingly well, with only the odd exception here and there. In my case, it was a bystander asking me if I was doing any ‘sports or activities’ in Turkey. I just about stopped myself from asking him when he had last played a game of volleyball after a 140 kilometres ride in 35 degree heat.

It was clear, almost everything except for the landscape had changed after crossing the virtual line in the sand that divided the two countries. Many of the riders were quick to mention the momentous change they sensed rolling into Cildir, a tiny city right on the border. There was a warmth there, and a forthcoming attitude that was simply striking after encountering a much more reserved – though always friendly and helpful – attitude from the Georgians. It was the hustle and bustle in the little cafés by the side of the road that did the trick, men playing boardgames and shouting ‘merabah’ or ‘Welcome to Turkey’ and offering us our first çays (tea). Our interactions with the locals proved to be very different from there on out. The honking and encouragement from the cars driving past more than tripled, creating a bit of a practical problem for our vans double ‘Are you ok’-honk. Many of them offered us rides to whatever destination we needed to get to. Most of the time we politely declined, though, or so I heard later on, they were accepted by a few on the odd very steep climb.

We were offered fruit daily, and aplenty. At a coke stop in a small village out of Oltu, a man spoke out to me in French. He said he lived in Paris and was visiting his home village, and offered all the riders as many prunes and apples from the trees around his house as we could wish for. He apologized for his town being so empty and quiet, explaining that it was market day in the big city and most people were out buying or selling merchandise there.

The most striking story was perhaps a man who offered each and every rider an apple on one of the tour’s hardest and longest days. As far as I could tell, he didn’t miss a single one. Even Tour de France soigneurs could learn a thing or two from him. Near the end of the tour we had to resort to what was a bit of an emergency ‘improvised’ camp site, and when the owner of the field we camped in approached, rather than tell us off, he brought his whole family with him, along with about 5kg of hazelnuts.

He asked if his 8-year-old son could come over and talk to us to improve his English. At that point the warmth of the Turkish people really almost became unbearable, as if your heart would explode under such kindness. Not too dissimilar to the taste of the sweets they are known for around the world. The difference between the two being the cavities, I guess. Although accepting too much çay (tea) with sugar surely wouldn’t help in getting some positive feedback from your dentist back home.

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Mitchell Kadelbach is the Chef on the 2022 Trans-Caucasus. Here is his take on Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia.

Upon arrival in Tbilisi, you might find a skyline littered with aesthetically nuanced architecture, comparatively small churches which command your attention through sheer quantity. Look closer, away from the steady drum of jostling vehicle factions and you’ll find a cityscape married to climbing greenery, cushioned from the sweltering summer sun by low hanging forest beach and maple canopies. Tbilisi is not a city lying in wait for an Olympics nomination to put it on the map. Furthermore, the character and charm here is not born from an imperialist coffer but rather a people who are naturally accustomed to having a good time and getting on with it. Here are three things I loved that set Tbilisi apart from its neighbours.

1. It’s not slanted it’s offset!

In Tbilisi (or Bellisi as locals spin it), courtyards of complicated and precarious wonders brought me to a stop, as I couldn’t help but speculate whether a well-aimed gust of wind would push it down flat. In the vibrant and enticing cobbled streets of the Old Town, it doesn’t matter which way you turn, you’re sure to find a collage of building extensions. Overhanging gothic balconies, DIY wooden verandas and corrugated steel huts; tastefully combined with cracked and often crumbling cement cladding to humbly reveal that fashionable red brickwork prized in the west. While some of these angled and undoubtably teetering developments remain defiant to earth’s eternal pull, others are less fortunate…

Another mark of quaint charm is their almost too typical Soviet state building style. Having been through Central Asia on TDA’s Silk Road in 2018, I’ve seen so many Soviet-era papier mâché façades that I’m no longer caught off guard by their towering demeanour. Georgia and Tbilisi, to my surprise, feels different. While the ‘in your face’ sentiment is still there, the upkeep and lifespan is notably more considered. I’ve seen fifty-foot-high statues which are better described as wire sculptures, because the outer layer of cement feels about as brittle as drywall in a testosterone filled frat house. The steel structure of Mother Georgia, sword in hand, looks surprisingly more permanent and less permeable.

2. What an unassuming culture!

I can’t speak much for specifics as I’m no studied historian, but the shallow research I did pre-arrival highlighted the fact that a multitude of different empires have warred over Georgia’s fertile lands since records began. Mongol hordes, Turkish Sultans, Romans, and Persians pretty much all have had their way with this region. I can see why. The weather is hot while the grass is green. Grape vines take so naturally to the soil in Georgia it’s as if it’s really a weed. And a further note of accreditation to this fact is that the earliest artifacts holding wine residue were found in Georgia, making it the birthplace of the beverage. Yet classical Georgian wine is something else altogether, largely because grapes are crushed and fermented, seed, stem and all. Georgians don’t like to swirl, sip and pontificate refined palates. Instead, they toast to God’s good favour, slam it back and poor another.

Celebrations aren’t reserved just for weekends; in Tbilisi shops open late (usually 9:00am or 10:00am) and stay open later (their Baskin-Robbins was still serving at 2:00am). While Georgians may be renowned for their hospitality and easy-does-it approach, mannerisms here are clearly separate from European customs. Gather up all the looks and interactions I have shared with the locals – working men, shopkeepers, waiters, and waitress and that’ll tell you subtly what life here is really like.  People in Georgia, for the most part (…there are exceptions to all assumptions), I’ve found are indignant or unconcerned about you and yours. Part of that is unhelpful at times and comforting at others, when you learn how tourists receive no special pampering. Instead, eyes are stern, cheeks unwaveringly flat and discourse is often curter than it is indulgent.

3. Not all cheesy breads are cooked equally.

I first had Georgian food in Almaty, Kazakhstan and was blown away by how original, fresh and well presented everything was. That experience I’ve learned was something of a misnomer. Georgian food in Georgia can be somewhat hit and miss. Service is inattentive and slow for the most part. Menus are usually foreigner-friendly, with pictures and English descriptions. Yet navigating how much you’re getting or when it will come requires a little more tact. Cold items come first and quickly (for the most part), hot dishes, usually meat oriented, arrive sporadically and often require some starchy accompaniment i.e., bread! An etiquette I learned a little too late is that Georgian food is often shared and enjoyed rather than coursed and personally placed. This makes ordering a dream if you all enjoy the same appetite and diet, not so much if you’re a lonely vegan adamant on staying true. Regardless, the options are still there and Tbilisi’s restaurant scene offers varied cuisines and classifications for rigid diners.

Our group took to the tactic of ordering lots of different sides and cold options to ensure that we didn’t have to wait too long before feasting. Or you could avoid the wait entirely and enjoy one Tbilisi’s many kiosk-style bakeries, which turn out a variety of stuffed breads, namely, Khachapuri, a traditional cheese-filled bread Georgians are proud to call their own. Normally cheesy bread needs no introduction as it practically sells itself. However, Khachapuri is largely different due to the type of cheese held within its often crunchy confinement – Sugulni, which is easily the most popular and widely distributed Georgian cheese. The flavour is mild in comparison to European varieties and can come from either a cow, goat, or buffalo, I would liken it to mozzarella, yet the taste of Sugulni is more defined and cultured than it is fresh. Either way, Sugulni, is a deliciously salty cheese which melts beautifully, draping strings, ideal for baking. Lastly, the quality largely remains in the craft of the cooking. The best Khachapuri I found was made by a seasoned local in a traditional homestead, enjoyed fresh from the wood-fired oven – it was worlds away from any other. Other pertinent Georgian dishes for me are Lobio (beans in clay pot), Khinkali (soup filled dumplings), Nigvziani Badrijani (walnut stuffed eggplant rolls) and Ispanakhis pkhali (spinach, walnut, and fenugreek dip).

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Mats Fredrix is the Content Creator for the 2022 Trans-Caucasus Cycling Tour. He sent this report from Sighnaghi, Georgia.

It is difficult for expectation levels to rise any higher after you hear you’re about to ride into, ‘Georgia’s most beautiful city’. Add in some, very shallow, research and you’re left with fantasies of ‘the city of love’,’the next Florence’ or ‘the Tuscany of the Caucasus’. To be fair, the TDA cycling caravan’s excitement levels were already through the roof after setting out from the dry, almost forgotten, desert village of Udabno on what was only their second day of riding on the Trans-Caucasus tour.

Having had the privilege of visiting  both Tuscany and Florence, I can tell you, Sighnaghi is nowhere near as striking as Italy’s most famous wine region and its capital city. But, fair enough, this is Georgia, not Italy. This city was quite significantly refurbished in 2007 by the government with visions of Tuscany strongly lodged in the back of their minds. Cities imitating and mirroring themselves to Western styles and architecture are always a bit like beating the air. The Georgians, however, landed a hell of a lot closer to the mark than the Moroccans with their effort.

Sighnaghi, located atop quite steep a hill, has an absolutely fascinating history. It begs the painful question why there’s any need for imitation at all. This region, with all its wine, vineyards and a climate that – or so one of the riders who is a geophysicist told me – is almost exactly like Italy’s most famous wine region. That makes a comparison almost inevitable.

Riding into the city, much of Sighnaghi’s history becomes blatantly obvious. The city’s name Sighnaghi comes from the Turkish word signak, which means shelter. In other words, it’s a fortress, and a stunning one at that. The main city is surrounded by a four km defensive wall, called, surprise, surprise, ‘the Great Wall of Georgia,’ of which long stretches are still clearly visible. All these fortifications certainly served a purpose. It was initially erected – some say out of an already existing settlement – in the 18th century to ward off marauding attacks by nearby Dagestani tribesmen and has kept up its status as a refuge from war and a sanctuary of love, kindness and virtue ever since.

When it comes to the title, ‘The City of Love’, the claim is largely due to the city’s particular pastel colours that pop up everywhere. Many buildings and balconies are doused in blue, pink and yellow hues and many Georgian couples visit the town to get married. Although Sighnighi won’t quickly snatch the ‘City of Love’ title from Paris, you can consider it a significant outsider in that competition. And though it is certainly not the ‘next Florence’, it is a great city in and of itself, needing no comparison to any other big attraction to up its value as a place well worth visiting.

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It has been 15 years since TDA ran a tour that passed through Georgia. The last time was 2007 on our Silk Route tour, which in those days began in Istanbul and headed east towards Georgia, Azerbaijan, across the Caspian Sea by ferry and eventually to Beijing.

To this day TDA’s time in Georgia has stood out amongst the many other travels our tours have taken us. For a geographically small country, it is extremely diverse in cultural history, languages, architecture and natural beauty. From the heights of the greater Caucasus to bountiful lakes and forests, and from the European fashioned architecture of the cities to the ruins of castles and ancient monasteries in the rural hills.

Then there is the vodka and local “cha cha” that tend to infuse the spirit of shared meals with much boisterousness and song. As well the incredible history and quality of Georgian vineyards, which supplied the former Soviet Union, and still supplies wine drinkers throughout the region today. Rich culinary traditions are apparent throughout the country, whether it be in the guise of multi-course meals in Tbilisi or a rustic serving of local bread and fresh homemade cream in the country side.

We are very excited to be able to bring a group of cyclists back to Georgia for another incredible adventure, on our Trans Caucasus tour starting in August, after all these years.

Our time in Georgia is extended

Our Trans Caucasus tour was originally scheduled to begin in Baku, Azerbaijan and head west into Georgia, and onwards to Istanbul. However due to the Azerbaijan land border remaining firmly closed due to COVID, we have moved the start of the tour to Tbilisi, Georgia, and will not be cycling in Azerbaijan. By doing so we will now have the opportunity to spend 5 more days in Georgia than originally planned. Some of the amazing highlights we’ll experience on route are…

Tbilisi

The capital of Georgia. An incredibly scenic city. Explore the 4th century Nirikala Fortress, enjoy the national dumpling dish Khinkali at one of myriad restaurants in “Old Town”, or relax your muscles and mind in the local Sulfur Baths.

Davit Gareji

Our first camp night will bring us near the Davit Gareji Monasteries, which are spread out over approximately 20km, and close to the Azerbaijan border. It is a semi-desert area, and strikingly different than most of the other terrain we will experience in Georgia.

Sighnaghi

As Lonely Planet describes it “Sighnaghi is perhaps Georgia’s single most attractive town, with an amazing position perched on a lofty hilltop facing the snow-capped Caucasus looming in the distance across the vast Alazani valley.”

Lagodheki

From our rest day in Lagodheki, when not relaxing and trying one of the local wines, you could explore the nearby Lagodheki National Park, where one may hike past waterfalls, pristine lakes and densely forested landscapes.

Ikalto

During our rest day in Ikalto, you can take the opportunity to explore the heartland of Georgian wine country, with numerous vineyards nearby. Or if you are looking for a respite, walk the grounds of the Ikalto Monastery, founded by Saint Zenon in the 6th century.

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You may have missed it. While we were busy getting our first pandemic-era tours underway in Europe and the southern US, we quietly posted a new and exciting tour called Trans-Caucasus. Now that we have had time to catch our breath, I wanted to tell you a bit about this new adventure along an old route of ours.

>>Find the Trans-Caucasus dates, details and pricing here

We used this route in 2007 for our very first Silk Route cycling adventure that took cyclists east through Georgia, Azerbaijan and across the Caspian Sea (instead of our current routing via Iran). Since we aren’t able to run the entire Silk Route next year (we have postponed that to 2023 – see our updated calendar) we thought this was an excellent opportunity to return to a beloved route.

I personally have some of my fondest (and most exhausted) memories of cycling remote mountain roads in eastern Turkey, and experiencing the wonderful food, wine and scenery of the two Caucasus countries of Azerbaijan and Georgia. So here are a few more things you might not know about this fascinating route.

1. Qobustan Rock Art, Azerbaijan

At the end of our first day of riding we will reach the town of Qobustan and for those who still have some energy left, you can arrange a trip into the Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you can walk around this incredible site and ponder the long history of humans in the area…

“Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape covers three areas of a plateau of rocky boulders rising out of the semi-desert of central Azerbaijan, with an outstanding collection of more than 6,000 rock engravings bearing testimony to 40,000 years of rock art. The site also features the remains of inhabited caves, settlements and burials, all reflecting an intensive human use by the inhabitants of the area during the wet period that followed the last Ice Age.” from UNESCO.

For those that don’t want to risk missing this site after a day of cycling, tours can also be arranged pre-tour from Baku.

2. Sheki Caravanserai, Azerbaijan

One of the coolest places we stayed on the Silk Route back in 2007 was the caravanserai in Sheki. This is not a luxury stay by any means. It’s a step up from bush camping as there are basic toilets and showers, but the rooms are sparse and what you are really getting is a chance to step back in time.

“A caravanserai was a roadside inn where travelers could rest and recover from the day’s journey. Caravanserais supported the flow of commerce, information and people across the network of trade routes covering Asia, North Africa and Southeast Europe, most notably the Silk Road.” from Wikipedia.

For traders heading to or coming from Europe through the Caucasus, the caravanserai was their motel to rest and hitch their animals for the night before continuing on their arduous journey. So our cyclists will be no different – hitching their bikes and getting some rest before continuing their cycling adventures.

photo credit: Caravanserai Hotel by Gilad Rom under Creative Commons CC BY 2.5

3. In the Foothills of the Greater Caucasus

The Greater Caucasus are our constant companion sitting to the right of our route over the first couple weeks of the tour from Baku and through Azerbaijan and most of Georgia. We cross the lesser Caucasus to enter Turkey. The Greater Caucasus certainly make for challenging riding with lots of elevation gain and some steep ascents with rewarding views and screaming downhills on the other side.

“Spectacular mountain scenery, wonderful walks and picturesque old villages with strange defensive towers are all part of a trip to the southern side of Europe’s highest mountain range.” from Lonely Planet.

4. Lagodekhi  Nature Reserve

Our first stop in Georgia is Lagodekhi – one of the countries natural treasures.

“Lagodekhi National Park, is one of the most unique and diverse national parks in Georgia. Located in the eastern part of the country, on the borders of Dagestan (Russia) and Azerbaijan, the park has a sub-tropical climate that most travelers would never have expected to find in this part of the world…a place for intrepid travelers and curious locals looking for challenging adventures with beautiful rewards.” from Meanwhile in Georgia.

Ninoskhevi Waterfall

5. Fortresses of Georgia

I remember turning a bend in the road and this magnificent castle loomed high above me. Khertvisi Fortress – which we pass towards the end of day 8 – is one of several fortresses that are spread across the Georgian landscape. According to Wikipedia “There are over 100 castles and forts in Georgia, which were constructed between the years 800 and 1700 by various provincial kings.”

“Khertvisi fortress – Middle age castle is located in village Khertvisi, on the estuary of rivers Paravani and Mtkvari, on a tall rocky mountain…was an active fortress during feudal ages…The fortress consists of the citadel and a wall. Citadel stands on a narrow, rocky edge of the mountain, it is not approachable from the northeastern side. Water was supplied by a tunnel on a northwestern side.” from Georgia Travel Guide.

Khertvisi Fortress

6. Flavours of Georgia

I love cycling in this part of the world and a big reason for that is the surprising variety of flavours I didn’t expect to find. I couldn’t agree more with how Georgian cuisine was described here…

“…it’s hard to find dishes anywhere that so deftly intermingle Eastern and Western techniques: platters of soup dumplings, called khinkali, are as big an attraction in Tbilisi as they are in Shanghai, while Georgia’s supple flatbreads parallel India’s best naan, puffed and scorched on the inner walls of traditional clay toné ovens. The similarities aren’t coincidental. Sitting at the midpoint of ancient East–West trade routes, Georgians had the advantage of being able to cherry-pick the best of what the Greeks, Mongols, Turks, and Arabs were cooking along the Silk Road. When Russian poet Alexander Pushkin asserted that “every Georgian dish is a poem,” I like to think he wasn’t referring just to flavor and artful presentation but also to the coalescence of cultures on the plate.” from Serious Eats.

7. Kakheti Wine Region Georgia

On our way to Tbilisi, we cycle straight through the heart of Kakheti. Many of the wineries still employ an ancient technique in wine making using a ‘kvevri’…

“Kvevri (also known as churi in Western Georgia) are large earthenware vessels used for the fermentation, storage and ageing of traditional Georgian wine. Resembling large, egg-shaped amphorae without handles, they are either buried below ground or set into the floors of large wine cellars. Kvevris vary in size: volumes range from 20 litres to around 10,000.” from Wikipedia

I found an old entry on our blog from back in 2007 that brings me back to my experiences in Kakheti…

“Some rolling hills and a decent climb were followed by a fun downhill (nice, winding, fast and offering some great views)…situated in some of Georgia’s wine and cheese producing areas. There were vineyards and castles to view and large blocks of cheese and delicious fresh bread available on the side of the road to sample.” from our blog in 2007.

8. Tbilisi, Georgia’s Capital

Besides Istanbul, Tbilisi is perhaps the most culturally rich and diverse city along the entire route. With its variety of restaurants, museums and galleries Tbilisi definitely has a European flavour to it.

“With its dramatic valley setting, picturesque Old Town, eclectic architecture and superb eating and drinking opportunities, Tbilisi is the vibrant, beating heart of Georgia and home to more than one in three of its citizens…Tbilisi is confidently sealing its reputation as the South Caucasus’ most cosmopolitan city.” from Lonely Planet

9. Yusufeli, eastern Turkey

Among the challenging climbs of eastern Turkey you find this gorgeous town nestled in a river valley. It takes a great deal of pedal power to reach this place, but I remember clearly how much we all enjoyed our rest in Yusufeli. As a first stop in Turkey it is a great introduction to a culture that is warm and welcoming and a glass of tea or a snack are never far away with vendors and shops scattered across town.

“This beautiful small town is set in the valley of the Barhal Cayi river beneath towering rocky faces and pinnacles. For the hungry cyclist it offers a feast of local dishes on a terrace overlooking the river at the Hacioglu Cag Doner restaurant and a leisurely stroll through its colorful streets and alleys.” from our blog in 2012.

10. Safranbolu

Safranbolu is a gorgeous place that really gives you a feel of times past. It is named for (you guessed it) saffron – the precious spice that is still grown in the area. But it is also recognized for other reasons too…

“Its Ottoman architecture includes the old Çarşı district, with hundreds of preserved, red-roofed Ottoman houses on cobblestone streets. Cinci Han is a 17th-century caravansary with rooftop views over town. Nearby, Tarihi Cinci Hamam is a restored 17th-century bathhouse, still in operation.” from UNESCO.

These are a few of the many surprises I found while cycling in this region. It is currently open for travel and I am eagerly anticipating a return to a region I have really enjoyed cycling. I think you will too.

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