The Mountain Gorillas Of Rwanda

 

Benjamin Levin is the Content Creator on the 2024 Tour d’Afrique Cycling Expedition and a self described wildlife photographer. In this report, he looks back at his experience (and that of a few riders) had on the Musanze rest day visiting the mountain gorillas of Rwanda.

The riders had climbed for days and days to get to this point. Rwanda is known as the land of a thousand hills and whoever said that was certainly not exaggerating. But some riders on the 2024 Tour d’Afrique had a destination in mind that was worth the endless ascents; they were going to one of the only places in the world that can offer a wildlife experience as singular and intimate as the one they were after. The excitement in these riders was palpable as we headed to Musanze, Rwanda. They were going to have the opportunity to see endangered mountain gorillas in the wild.

There are just over 1000 mountain gorillas left on the planet. With their range restricted to the jungles of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, it is imperative for the survival of this species that they are properly protected. Tourism is strictly regulated. In Rwanda, only 96 permits are given out each day to see the gorillas. Not only does this make the experience that much more special for the riders that had the opportunity, but it also ensures that the gorillas remain truly wild, not becoming habituated to human intrusion. Moreover, the money made from tourism goes directly back into gorilla conservation and the development of the local community. In a way, the gorillas are the catalysts for the successful development of gorillas conservation programs and growth of the Musanze area.

As it grew closer to the time to leave for the tour, everyone made certain their permits were correct, cameras were charged and clothes were primed for the bugs and rains. Then, in the early morning, we got picked up from camp. Soon we were placed in our groups; the time to search for these beautiful, powerful primates was upon us. The morning was mostly clear, we could see the volcano looming over the jungle. Rain clouds threatened, as they always do in this part of the world, in the distance above Volcano National Park. The bush was dense, more of a game trail than one regularly used for trekking. Ankle deep mud, the enemy of the day, welcomed us to the jungle. For 45 minutes, or maybe an hour, we pushed through the dense undergrowth. The game ranger led us confidently, explaining as he went that all of the gorilla tracking is done using landmarks, no GPS or satellites. Then we heard voices, voices and grunting. We stood still. The tops of the trees moved, rather, they were moved and rounding a corner suddenly, a silverback gorilla stared at us.

One of the most striking feelings you experience while viewing wildlife is being looked at. It is almost ironic, you search for these animals in order to look at them, to see them in their natural environment, undisturbed. So when they look at you, and you can really feel them looking at you, it is an incredibly special feeling. Primates in particular, so human in their appearance and actions, look at you with an intelligence that freezes you in place. We had cycled a thousand kilometres and hiked for many more to end up looking at these creatures, and instead, they were looking at us.

As we observed these wonderful animals, our gaze reflected in theirs, we could not help but compare ourselves to them. Seeing these mountain gorillas in their home, playing, arguing, grooming, and relaxing was like looking at a mirror of the human condition. The tenderness of the mother, the gentle confidence of the father, all things that we have experienced in our day to day lives. Visiting the mountain gorillas was a deeply impactful experience. The unique blend of intimacy and awe of being seen through their eyes is something I will always remember and carry with me.

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