Cycling the Transfăgărășan: Romania’s most iconic road

Becky Timbers is the Assistant Tour Leader on the 2024 Orient Express Cycling Tour. She reports on one of the most challenging but rewarding days on the route from Paris to Istanbul.

Picture a winding ribbon of road, threading its way through the heart of Romania’s Carpathian Mountains, flanked by jagged peaks and valleys that easily rival the Italian Dolomites in their rugged beauty. The Transfăgărășan Road is often hailed as one of the most spectacular roads in the world. It’s the second highest mountain pass in Romania and one of the top highlights for the riders on the Orient Express but, as we discovered, it’s no easy feat to reach the beautiful Balea Lake at the top!

Stage 28 of the Orient Express took the riders up the north side of the Transfăgărășan Road (gaining a whopping 1,695 m over 34.4 km) while the following day, Stage 29 had us sailing down the equally stunning south side. The ascent to the top started gently enough, with the road snaking through lush evergreen forest. As the riders climbed higher, the trees began to thin out, giving way to rocky outcrops and panoramic views of the valley below. Soon, we were out of the trees and staring up at the final push of the climb – a formidable set of switchbacks that led to Bâlea Lake and a well-deserved rest and meal. Many riders described this climb as one of the hardest they’ve ever down, but worth it for the views and sense of accomplishment.

We spent the night in rustic lodges on the shores of Bâlea Lake, a glacial gem nestled at the highest point of the road. The lake, reflecting the bowl-shaped towering peaks around it, was a picture-perfect reward for the tough climb. The riders spent the evening relaxing, rehydrating, and swapping stories from their epic day of climbing the Transfăgărășan.

The next morning, the riders formed a convoy between our two vehicles to transit the 1km tunnel that led to the descent on the south side of the Transfăgărășan pass. Instead of grinding up switchback after switchback, the riders enjoyed an exhilarating descent.

The south side of the Transfăgărășan had a different feel – more rugged and untamed, with waterfalls cascading down cliffs and narrow canyon walls towering above us. And… bears! Our trip leader, Balazs, had warned us about the possibility of bear sightings on this stretch, but nothing could quite prepare us for the reality. Some riders spotted as many as 11 bears during the descent—an incredible, if bittersweet, reminder of the untamed wilderness we were passing through. Unfortunately, many of these bears have grown accustomed to seeking food from tourists, an indication that this beautiful area is not being managed as carefully as it should be.

As the Transfăgărășan Road eventually led us into the Argeș Valley, the landscape softened into rolling hills, the towering peaks of the Carpathian’s gradually fading into the distance. For most of us, the Transfăgărășan had lived up to its legendary reputation and then some. The tough climb, the exhilarating descent, the raw beauty of the mountains—all of it came together to create an experience that will undoubtedly be the highlight for the Orient Express riders.

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