Biking the Balkans: An Exploration On 2 Wheels

Sara Frenning is the Content Creator on the 2026 The Odyssey Cycling Tour.

Over 1400 km, 20 days, 4 countries, 4 languages, 3 currencies, winter, spring, summer, mountains, sea, and flatlands – the Balkans really covered it all.

In the small town of Danilovgrad, Montenegro, on a busy pedestrian street among cafés and restaurants, I asked the young guy at the tourism office what the best thing about Montenegro was. “That you get everything you need, from views to food to culture, condensed in such a small country,” he answered. Unbeknownst to him, his words not only perfectly described our time in Montenegro but also our whole experience biking the Balkans for the last 20 days.

Between Athens and Sarajevo, we have had most of the weather known to man, but also an incredibly rich diversity of cultures, food, fauna, and landscapes, all squeezed into what felt like an impossibly short amount of time and distance.

Before this trip, when I heard someone mention ‘the Balkans’, I had a homogeneous idea of what that meant. For me, I (naively) expected Eastern European architecture, grey buildings, green valleys, and one or two rice-stuffed vegetables across all these countries, but more or less the same. The reality, though, was very different. Even though there is a common thread that ties the Balkans together, each country has its own unique character and energy. The subtle shifts and changes in culture and energy are felt distinctly, especially on a bicycle.

In Greece, the weather was anything but stereotypical. Hail, rain, sleet, and cold temperatures all paid us a visit, but the warmth of the people and good food made up for it. If I were to tell you about the olives, I would need another thousand words, so I will refrain.

From Greece, we entered Albania, a country we all had high expectations for, and it was also the first time we saw the coast on this trip. The coastline along the Ionian Sea created a wonderful contrast to the breathtaking mountain views and farmlands, and, perhaps more importantly, offered the chance to soak our tired bodies in its comforting waves at the end of the day.

Albania is developing fast, and infrastructure and cities are growing, but time still moves differently there. Shepherds in the fields we biked by reminded us to take a breath and move with the phases of nature, and sometimes to move by the pace of the very slow coffee service in the mornings. Albania teaches you patience and acceptance in the best of ways.

Before we knew it, we were in Montenegro, and the asphalt was instantly smoother, the valleys steeper, and the water, if possible, even bluer. We were only in Montenegro for two days, but I sure wished it were longer. On the first day, we were invited by the tourism office in Danilovgrad for coffee, and they made sure all the riders were well caffeinated before the climb up to the Ostrog Monastery, a 17th-century Serbian Orthodox monastery founded by Saint Basil of Ostrog. It is one of the Balkans’ most visited pilgrimage sites. Just one of many examples of Montenegro’s hospitality and rich culture.

Bosnia gave us beautiful scenery and cultural richness. This is where we had the biggest shift in food, and you could see a strong Serbian influence in the dishes. Meat and potatoes seem to be the fuel that gets much of this region through the day, but there is plenty of regional variety in vegetables and seasoning (although my early prediction about stuffed vegetables did come true, there is no shortage of that dish anywhere in these countries).

Stari Most, Mostar, Bosnia

The Bosnian capital Sarajevo, which was under heavy military siege in the 90’s, marked the end of the Balkan section of the Odyssey and was a harrowing reminder that, behind the warmth of the people we met and the ease with which we crossed it’s boarders, there is a complicated social history that draws deep lines between these areas.

As that young man in Danilovgrad told me, the wonder of these countries lies in how much you can experience in such a short distance and time. From Greece’s olive groves and rich history to Albania’s blue coastline, to Montenegro’s smiling people, to Bosnia’s big mountains – it truly has been everything we need.

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