A Rest Day In Oslo On The Road To Valhalla Cycling Tour

“Nothing is impossible that one desires with an indomitable will.”  – Henrik Ibsen

The inaugural Road to Valhalla Cycling Tour from Helsinki to Trondheim has reached Oslo, the midpoint of the tour. Wonderful, compact, and almost traffic free, Oslo is ideal for my regular rest day walkabout. And as in Helsinki and Stockholm, there is much to see and explore. It was a windy, rainy day and so with some wonderful companions, I chose to take a ferry to see two museums knowing very little about them.

It turned out that much like my blogs on Helsinki and Stockholm, this piece is essentially about two remarkable Norwegians who are the central figures in each of the museums. The Fram (meaning forward) Museum houses the 39 meter schooner which was designed and built specifically to prove that you could make a ship that northern ice will not destroy. More importantly, it would also prove the natural east–west current of the Arctic Ocean. It was an audacious idea, with many sceptics and nay sayers but, as the Wikipedia page notes,“In the face of much discouragement from other polar explorers, Nansen took his ship Fram to the New Siberian Island in the eastern Arctic Ocean, froze her into the pack of ice, and waited for the drift to carry her towards the pole.”

The man behind building the ship and the leader of the expedition was a remarkable man of action, Fridtjof Nansen, who was an explorer extraordinaire, a polymath, scientist, diplomat, humanitarian and, eventually, a Nobel Prize winner. I had never heard of him or any of his many exploits and activities and I was most fascinated to learn about him and the multiple stories connected to the expeditions of the ship and its crew. And, of course, walking on the actual ship was an experience in itself. Frankly, I could have spend several more hours in the museum.

Right across the Fram museum is the Kon -Tiki Museum which houses the balsa raft that the Norwegian explorer, Thor Heyderhal, and his remarkable crew used to cross from Peru to Polynesia to prove that an ancient civilization had the knowledge to cross the Pacific Ocean. It also houses the totora-reef boat built for the subsequent voyage to cross the Atlantic Ocean. The museum tells the story behind the construction of the boats, the hypothesis for the raison d’etre of the expeditions, the crew, and Thor Heyderhal’s story and his determination to implement his projects.

I started this blog with a quote from perhaps the most famous Norwegian author, often referred as the father of modern drama. If you have read any of his books or seen his plays, you will likely agree that he had an excellent understanding of human nature. There are no better examples of ‘indomitable will’ than Fridtjof Nansen and Thor Heyderhal. Walking around the museums, learning about these two individuals, also reminded me of the ‘indomitable will’ of many of the participants on our tours.

What a wonderful way to spend a rainy day in Oslo.

RELATED
TOUR

Road to Valhalla

Valhalla, also known as the Hall of Heroes, was the goal for all real Vikings. Ruled by the Norse God, Odin, only the bravest and fiercest of warriors...