Warsaw: Risen From The Ashes

Olha Kurochkina joined the TDA Global Cycling team in early 2023 as Office Manager. In this piece, she takes a personal look back at Warsaw, one of the first places she ended up after fleeing the war in Ukraine.

Among our dearest alumni there will definitely be people who can better depict the wonderful city of Warsaw. I’m sure many of our riders have been there before and some new cyclists will visit the city next summer on the 2025 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour. However, I would like to share my personal impressions of the capital of Poland and pay credit to those amazing people who supported my family and I in the darkest days of my life. When fleeing from the war in Ukraine, I found myself in Warsaw in March, 2022, and lived there until July, when I moved to Canada. I found such great support, and on behalf of many, many Ukrainians, I want to thank this great country, and most important, its citizens, who were one of the first to lend a helping hand to their neighbours in need.

Having been neither a tourist nor a permanent resident, I was shown the city in the way it is seen by the Varsovians, people who love their city wholeheartedly. It was one of my last days in Poland when my good friend, a noble ‘Warszawiak’ (Varsovian in Polish) took me for a walking tour around his favourite places in the city and literally infected me with the love and respect for a city which was almost totally destroyed in WWII. It was rebuilt very quickly and has now become one of the most modern, digital and fast-growing cities of Eastern Europe.

Syrenka, the mermaid of Warsaw

So, let us dismount our bikes for a while, and explore Syrenka’s favourite spots (Syrena, the mermaid, is a symbol of Warsaw and features prominently in its coat of arms and is a poetic or symbolic way of referring to the city). If you would like to see the city by bike (they call a bicycle “rover”), that is also great idea. The biking lanes are great and are almost everywhere in the city.

Palace of Culture and Science

Rest assured, wherever you go in Warsaw, you will be able to see the towering Palace of Culture and Science. When I first visited Warsaw, I called it the ‘Polish Mona Lisa’ – no matter where you go in the city, it’s always there, looking at you! Locals hate it. No surprise, as it was a gift from the Soviet Union to Poland to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the People’s Republic of Poland. The design was inspired by Soviet architecture, particularly the Stalinist style. So the best way to escape its imposing presence is to go to the top of the building itself. On the 30th floor, there’s an observation deck that offers spectacular panoramic views of Warsaw and its surroundings. It’s a popular spot for both tourists and locals so it’s better to make a reservation beforehand but with the price of less than $7, it’s totally worth it.

Anytime I talk to friends who are going to Warsaw I make them promise that they will visit my favourite bar in the whole universe! It is called Piana Vyshnia (Drunk Cherry) and offers only a single product – the most delicious cherry liqueur you ever tried. The atmosphere is exquisite and very special to my heart as it is a famous Ukrainian brand, with locations all over Western Europe. I, personally, made a solid contribution to their prosperity, taking all my friends and colleagues to their location in Warsaw. When I was moving to Canada, I had to sacrifice some stuff in my baggage to fit in a of couple of bottles as well as a pair of marvellous crystal glasses, which are a signature souvenir from this bar. My sincerest advice is to pay a visit to Piana Vyshnia whenever you’re in Warsaw, Budapest, Bratislava or Vilnius. Just do it! (And grab a bottle for me if you are from Ontario, I’ll pay you double the price).

If you would like to refresh after couple of glasses at the Drunk Cherry (you will never stop at just one), my recommendation would be to take the 107 or 520 bus (the public transport in Warsaw is great and cheap) and visit my favourite Lazienki (Royal Baths) Park.

Lazienki Palace

If you prefer walking, that is also a good option. It won’t take more than 40 minutes. You can also use your bike to get there, but you can’t ride inside the park. Wander away from the main paths and discover secluded spots like the Amphitheatre, the Old Orangery, and the beautiful Chinese Garden. In summer, free Chopin concerts are held by the park’s famous statue, offering a cultural escape in the heart of nature. Admission to park is free but you might want to delve deeper into history of this enchanting place and visit some exhibitions with a package ticket for $20.

Warsaw Uprising Museum

In my life there have been several places I visited which were really unforgettable. Two of them are in Poland. The first is Auscwitz-Birkenau, not far from another amazing city of Krakow, which truly deserves a separate blog. The second is located in Warsaw, out of the Old City’s touristic spots. I’m talking about the Warsaw Uprising Museum. Both of them, to my mind, are absolute must-visits for every human being in order to confront the uncomfortable truths about human nature, society and the capacity for cruelty. It serves as a call to action to promote tolerance, human rights and dignity for all. The Warsaw Uprising Museum is a deeply moving and essential stop for anyone seeking to understand the city’s history.

It is dedicated to the 1944 uprising against the Nazi occupation. The museum offers a powerful, immersive experience through multimedia exhibits, artifacts, and personal stories that detail the bravery and resilience of the Polish resistance. While it can’t exactly be called a ‘hidden gem’, it often gets overlooked by those who focus solely on Warsaw’s historical old town. The museum serves as both a memorial and a reminder of the city’s indomitable spirit. I was most impressed by watching the video of all the destruction from the bird’s eye view. By the end of the war, approximately 85% of Warsaw had been destroyed. The Old Town, a symbol of Warsaw’s heritage, was almost completely levelled. Together with the bitterness that I felt, I came out of the Museum with an after-taste of hope. I saw a beautiful city, its people, and their beauty. While significant portions of Warsaw were restored by the 1970s and 1980s, the process of rebuilding, renovating, and modernizing the city has continued into the present day. Warsaw’s transformation from a war-torn city to a thriving capital is one of the most remarkable urban recovery stories in modern history. This gives me the optimism and aspiration that one day we can expect resurrection for my native Ukraine.

Warsaw sunset

To get away from these heavy thoughts, let’s hop on the #20 streetcar (we call it tram in Europe) that will take you straight to the Old Town and the banks of the Vistula River. Have some patience not to get off right there and cross the river at sunset to experience a marvellous view to the city, with its castles, museums and modern skyscrapers. I saw it thanks to a friend of mine and will stay with me forever. Since you are now already in the district of Praga Północ, you might want to have a good stroll around it. It’s one of the oldest districts in Warsaw, known for its unique character, vibrant arts scene, and historical significance. Unlike much of Warsaw, Praga Północ largely survived the destruction of World War II, allowing visitors to experience a more authentic pre-war atmosphere. Depending on your preferences and time available, you may enjoy the Museum of Neon, visit Praga Park and Zoo, go shopping at Michałowski Bazaar, or relax on the beach. Just make sure to ask locals where the name “Praga” came from. You’ll be surprised, I promise (nothing in common with Prague).

Above all the incredible places and experiences, what truly left an indelible mark on my heart were the people I met. The warmth, kindness, and unwavering support of the Varsovians turned a difficult chapter in my life into one filled with hope and resilience. Warsaw’s story is one of triumph over adversity, a spirit embodied by its citizens who welcomed me with open arms during my darkest days. As you explore this remarkable city, take a moment to connect with the people who call it home. Walk the streets, bike the lanes and listen to their stories – their histories are intertwined with the city’s very fabric. I am certain that, like me, you will find it impossible to remain indifferent to the city’s charm and the strength of its people. When you do, please share your impressions with me. Oh, and a bottle of Drunk Cherry too, of course.

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