The 2025 Trans-Europa finished in Gibraltar just over a month ago and the riders have had time to look back at their experience cycling across Europe. Here’s what they told us…

“A great way to travel across a continent. The right level of support with the organization for accommodation and routes, but with the right level of independence to just go out and cycle each day.” – Barbara Tate (UK)

“Amazing routes, surfaces, traffic, local bicyclists, bus stops, fields, forests and towns. Impressive staff support, hotels, meals, bicycle skill and spirit! The TDA staff brought a marvellous sense of service, love of bicycling and travel, and enthusiasm for the landscapes, lifestyles, and liveliness of these countries and the places to experience-explore them.” – Anne Fege (USA)

“If you are bicycling solo and want to have the best time with the nicest people and the best run organization, then travel with TDA global cycling!” – Julie Richert (USA)

“I love TDA’s style.” – Kathy Herson (USA)

“UNESCO sites galore – old and new and changing democracies, varied food. Great views and ever changing landscapes.” – Grant Duncan (UK)

NOTE: Things change and the Trans-Europa Cycling is no exception. In 2027, it will be replaced by the Amber Route from Tallinn to Venice and the new Plum Ride from Gdansk to Thessaloniki.

One of the most beautiful things about a TDA tour is that you never really experience it alone – even when you’re pedalling by yourself on a quiet stretch of road. Every rider sees the journey differently and together their photos and stories create a kaleidoscope of perspectives.

Some notice the food, capturing every steaming plate of pasta or surprise roadside picnic. Others tilt their cameras upward and find architecture, clouds, or dramatic skies. Some spot the tiniest details – street art, flowers growing through a crack in the pavement, the expression on a passerby’s face. And then there are the adventurers with drones who lift us above it all and show us the road winding endlessly into the horizon.

A quiet pause to take in the view. Photo by John Karwoski

What amazes me is how these fragments come together into something greater. When riders share their photos, you get to see the same day, the same place, the same ride – but through so many different eyes. It’s humbling, and it’s a reminder that beauty reveals itself in countless ways.

Mikal with Princess Daisy and Jenna’s photobombing

I’ll never forget riding alongside Peggy. She has the most adorable habit of stopping every few minutes to take a photo – a true blessing for every sweep rider. That evening, when I looked at her pictures, I was stunned. We had cycled through the exact same landscapes, but she saw beauty I completely missed. Her photos opened my eyes. Since then, I’ve started looking more carefully at what others capture.

Along the Latvian Roads by Peggy Morsch

Of course, there’s also the official Content Creator. Most tours have one, and they play such a big role in tying all these perspectives together. They film, write blogs, snap countless photos – and, yes, sometimes torture riders by sticking a camera in their face at just the wrong moment. But believe me, it’s for a good cause. While you’re cycling through the world, your friends and family back home are desperate for updates. You wouldn’t imagine the messages we get: “Go, John!” “Show more pics of Brenda!” “Where is my uncle Stéphane?!”

Stunning Ligurian coast by Todd Miller

What’s less obvious is that the Content Creator also provides the space where everyone – riders and staff – can share their photos and videos. By the end, you don’t just have one slideshow; you have a whole mosaic of perspectives. Different eyes, different lenses, different stories.

Grant’s sharing Italian artistry on wheels

This year on Trans-Europa, I had to leave too early (the sad fate of the office rat – needed at the desk sending invoices instead of pedalling beside you) but I stayed in the WhatsApp group where riders kept posting their photos. And while I felt very jealous, I decided I shouldn’t suffer alone – so I’m making you jealous too. Because honestly, there were so many great photos. What I’m sharing here is just a tiny sneak peek.

Together, those photos create a living memory of the tour – each frame a glimpse of what caught someone’s eye, a moment that moved them, a small story that otherwise might have gone unnoticed. The diversity of perspectives is what makes these memories so rich, so human, and so unforgettable.

A photo of Trans-Europa Content Creator Masoud by Barbara and Grant

And finally, a big shoutout to Masoud, our Content Creator on Trans-Europa. It was his first TDA tour (and I sincerely hope not the last). His photos were authentic, his videos bold and experimental, and his blogs so personal and wise, with a style you could recognize instantly.

To Masoud – and to all of our Content Creators across the tours -thank you. You are the ones who hold these threads together, who transform fragments into stories, and who quietly write our history. And let’s be honest: cycling and taking high-quality photos at the same time? That’s a superpower. (I still can’t manage it – can you?)

Masoud Riazati was the Content Creator on the 2025 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour.

The road is no longer ahead of us – it rests beneath our wheels, behind us, carried in the body, saved in our memory. What was once a distance on a map is now lived memory, threaded through sore muscles and sunburnt skin. Now it’s official! We have crossed a continent.

The Trans-Europa started with nineteen adventurous people, but slowly, as we moved along, the group became smaller. Some left in Warsaw, some in Budapest, and some in Venice – not because they couldn’t carry on, but because life called them elsewhere: some back to jobs, some back to family. And now we are ending the Trans-Europa with eight. The final eight—John, Mark, Denise, Barbara, Grant, Maria, Ernest, and Todd – have each achieved something unforgettable. They had the resilience to cross a continent and survive all challenges, whether physical or mental.

On a cycling tour of two and a half months, anything can happen: sickness, mental breakdowns, brain fatigue, even relationship conflicts. But the final eight survived it all and reached their ending point. Endings are strange things. When they come, you realize it wasn’t the finish line you were chasing at all. It was the ride itself – the rain-soaked mornings, the laughter over coffee, the climbs everyone dreaded, the roadside Coke stops. We are going to miss it all.

We will miss Maria’s advice on where to eat, Ernest’s positive energy during the toughest climbs, John’s suggestions for the best Coke stops, and Grant singing songs that matched the mood of the road. We’ll miss Barbara’s never-ending smile on her bicycle, Mark’s eager rush for morning coffee, and Denise’s uplifting energy that kept us going on the hardest days. And of course, Todd—my drone partner – with whom I shared countless moments searching for the best aerial shots.

We learned about many cultures and experienced unforgettable new foods and drinks. Just to give a few examples: when we had affogato before the ferry trip to Venice, when we shared lunch with Hungarian locals on our last day in Hungary, or when we tasted that incredible lava cake in Moissac Bellevue—the joy on our faces was priceless.

Riding the misty roads to Ljubljana brought the same joy. And cycling 134 km with brutal climbs to Bobbio or Granada – our legs screaming, our skin burned by the relentless sun – the joy of finally reaching our destinations was just as priceless. But let’s be real – it wasn’t all joy and happiness. We had tough days. Long days under the burning sun, flat tires, heat exhaustion, rough gravel roads, moments when we questioned our decision: Why am I doing this to myself? I remember one long and painful climb when Mikal looked at me and said, “Can you believe it? We paid to come here and suffer!” – and we both laughed.

Now, these are all memories – moments we’ll always remember, stories we’ll share with family and friends. And let’s not forget that any tour of this size and magnitude is impossible without a dedicated, strong crew. Everyone, in every role, gave their best to keep the wheels turning and the journey moving forward. Gergo, Balazs, Jena, Alex, Adrian, and Jordy – please give them a round of applause as you read this. I still remember the very first day I met Jordy in our hotel room in Tallinn. Two strangers suddenly thrown together to share a room for the next two and a half months. Fast forward to today – what started as a coincidence has turned into a friendship that will outlast the tour itself.

Crossing the last border, rolling into the final city, we carried silence more than celebration. Because how do you measure something like this? In kilometres? In days? Or in the way your sense of self bends and shifts along the way? Trans-Europa 2025 has ended. We are back home, back to normal everyday life. But no, no! We are not the same people who left our homes two and a half months ago to start this journey. We are all changed. We have grown into better versions of ourselves – more resilient, more content, and most importantly, more present in the moments of our lives.

Journeys never really end; they live on in the people we become. I – the content creator – began this trip feeling as if a dream had come true: finally doing what I love most, cycling and capturing every moment of it. Oh dear, I’m getting too sentimental. But why not? These are my last words, and who knows if I will ever meet this crew again? I lived a dream, crossing a continent with a group of amazing people. Believe it or not, I don’t want to finish this blog, as we all know how hard saying goodbye can be. So I will end it with this quote by T.S. Eliot: “We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time.”

Masood Riazati is the Content Creator on the 2025 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour.

Roads with endless curves – you turn, and there is another. You pedal and pedal, and the road stretches on, just like a Wagner melody: you think it’s finished, but then the next phrase begins. That is how many of the roads have felt so far.

It’s hard to believe we’ve already reached the halfway point of the Trans-Europa Tour, now in our eighth country: Italy. Each border has revealed something new. It’s remarkable how an invisible line can shift everything – landscape, language, food and belief. From the infinite wayside shrines of Poland to the misty mornings of Slovenia and all the magnificent old towns we have crossed, what began as a group of individual riders has grown into something I now think of as a tribe.

At the start, we were simply individuals with maps and intentions. Now, after weeks of riding, we have slipped into a rhythm that feels almost ritual. Each evening we gather for the riders’ meeting, listening to Gergo describe tomorrow’s terrain. We eat lunch together – tired, sunburned, still surprised by what Balazs and his assistant Jordi manage to create in the van’s modest kitchen. Coffee stops, scattered across borders, have become sacred pauses. Some search for espresso, others for Coke, but really, we are all searching for the same thing: a sense of the familiar in the middle of constant change.

No one names it, but we have all changed. A rite of passage doesn’t always arrive with ceremony; sometimes it appears on a dusty roadside, or under the weight of a sweaty helmet. Each of us has shifted, not because we chose to, but because the ride demanded it. Or, as Nick says: “Train for the ride—or the ride will train you.”

It’s amusing how repetition doesn’t dull anything here; it sharpens it. Wake. Ride. Eat. Sleep. Repeat. What might seem monotonous becomes a kind of meditation. Maybe that’s what ritual really is – a movement repeated until it begins to transform you.

We’ve grown close, forming small riding groups, sharing wrong turns and breaks along the way. But when we reach the hotel each night, we’re one big group – a TDA Trans-Europa tribe.

Now we know each other’s names, our work, our past lives. It’s extraordinary to listen to Nick, who helped build the first GPS system, and Mikal, the engineer behind the Intel chip that powers my laptop. They’ve already shaped the world in so many ways, and now they’ve given themselves the gift of this journey.

Sometimes I wish I could read minds or, like in Being John Malkovich, step inside their thoughts before sleep. But all I can do is imagine, observe, and contemplate every little interaction I record. That has become my own ritual: to listen closely, to notice the small gestures, to record the stories that are shared when there is time.

And how lucky we are – the TDA team – to be alongside them, to support them, and to share in what the road continues to reveal. We are not finished, not yet. The road ahead will bring more rituals, more reckonings, more quiet joys. But here, at this midpoint, where tired legs meet soft smiles, I can already name what we’ve found: friendship.

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TDA Office manager Olha Kurochkina was recently helping out on the 2025 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour from Tallinn to Vilnius.

When you ride a hundred kilometres a day, something funny starts to happen.
Your legs are busy, but your mind? Free to wander.
Sometimes it lands on big, philosophical stuff.
Sometimes it just loops a terrible pop song from a gas station.
But often, what starts as a thought about cycling… turns into something about life.

So here it is: my unsolicited collection of saddle-side wisdom. You’re welcome.

Things I’ve learned while riding (and maybe also living):

1. When you see a big climb ahead, you might panic – but if you just keep pedalling, it often turns out easier than expected.
2. Just when you think a tough climb is over and a chill descent is coming… surprise! It’s another, even steeper hill.
3. Even when it feels like you’re flying downhill, a little extra pedalling now can save you pain later.
4. Small, unexpected potholes can ruin the whole ride. Stay alert.
5. Choose your underwear wisely. Some mistakes you only make once.
6. People who disappear when you’re struggling probably don’t need a spot at your celebration either.
7. Having a route is great. But some of the best moments happen when you go a little off-course.
8. Switching gears at the right time can change everything.
9. Don’t compare your pace to others – you don’t know what kind of bike they’re riding, or how much it cost. Focus on making it to your own finish line.
10. Breathe it all in: the grass, the river, the forest air… but if it smells like cow dung? Pedal faster and breathe through your mouth.

A bike is a simple machine, but it has a funny way of becoming a mirror.
Of your mood. Your rhythm. Your thoughts.
Some of those thoughts are worth writing down.

So here they are. See you on the next hill.

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TDA Office manager Olha Kurochkina was recently helping out on the 2025 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour from Tallinn to Vilnius.

You’ll Never Be The Same – Whispers From The Baltic Road

I didn’t expect to cry in a forest in Latvia.
Or to feel seen by a song in a language I don’t understand.
Or to realize that stillness – real, extended, unapologetic stillness – might be the hardest and
kindest thing I could give myself. But that’s what the Baltics do. They don’t shout their lessons.
They whisper them. And somewhere between Tallinn and Vilnius, I began to listen.

The Soviet Scars You Don’t See (But feel)

There’s something about cycling through Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania that feels eerily familiar – if you grew up in post-Soviet country like I did. At first, it’s the visual cues: a concrete apartment block in the mist. A fading red star on a warehouse wall. The heavy, silent presence of things left behind – Soviet infrastructure, yes, but also the trauma no one quite knows how to name. But the resemblance ends there. Because here, the scars have been paved over – digitally, politically, even emotionally. Estonia, for instance, races ahead as one of the most advanced digital societies in the world. Lithuania leans into its design and creativity. Latvia glues it’s layers together like glass: fragile, visible, beautiful.

What struck me most was how quiet that transformation was. There are no monuments to pain in the forest. No street signs explaining what used to be there. But you feel it. Like muscle memory. Like a ghost that learned to walk beside you without making a sound. As a Ukrainian, I recognized it instantly. The silence isn’t avoidance. It’s survival. And – sometimes – it’s healing.

Meditation on Wheels

There’s a strange clarity that comes from long days on the bike. It’s not dramatic. It’s not even exciting, most of the time. It’s the everydayness that teaches you something:

• How to sit with discomfort and just keep pedalling.
• How to be alone with your thoughts, and forgive them when they repeat.
• How beauty can sneak up on you – in a roadside shrine, a stork’s nest, a girl selling wild strawberries in the middle of nowhere.

Cycling is a kind of moving meditation. You don’t arrive anywhere quickly – not on the bike, not in your thoughts. But you do arrive. And when you get there, you’re a little bit different than when you left. ‘The road won’t rush you,’ I wrote in my notes. ‘But it will change you.’ Sometimes I think that’s how healing works too.

Let the Forest Speak

One afternoon in Lithuania, the group had moved ahead, I was sweeping. I found myself alone – really alone – in the woods. Just birch trees, birdsong, and the steady rhythm of my wheels.

No traffic.
No war.
No alerts on my phone.

Just a country that had rebuilt itself quietly after trauma. Just a forest that had seen empires rise and fall.
Just me, remembering that being safe is not the same as feeling safe, and wondering if it’s okay to start feeling it now.

And Then Came the Cherries

Of course, not everything about the Baltics was quiet forests and introspective solo rides. On my last night in Vilnius, something entirely different happened. It started, innocently enough, with a visit to Pyana Vishnya – Drunk Cherry – the Ukrainian mono-bar I’ve somehow now made a tradition on my European trips. (Yes, it also made an appearance in my Warsaw blog. Yes, I clearly have a cherry agenda.)

What I didn’t expect were the vast amount of riders that showed up. Some came just to say goodbye. Some came just for the cherry shots (respect!). And suddenly I was surrounded – by friends, by laughter, by toasts, by hugs that lasted a little longer than usual. It felt like a second birthday. Or maybe just a moment when I realized – again – how lucky I am.

Lucky to ride with these people.
Lucky to have a job that makes my world both bigger and more connected.
Lucky to observe myself changing – not just in how I ride, but in how I relate, lead, and celebrate.

In a year of war, grief, and resilience, I ended this tour laughing in a red-lit Ukrainian bar, surrounded by people who understood. And for once, I didn’t feel the need to say anything wise or heavy. Just ‘Bud’mo!’ – ‘Cheers’ in Ukrainian.

You’ll Never Be the Same (and that’s the point)

I don’t leave the Baltics with a grand narrative. But I leave softer. Quieter, yes – but also fuller. These countries changed me – not by challenging me, but by welcoming me into their silence, their memory, and their moments of surprise joy. Sometimes, after enough miles (and maybe a few cherry shots), you realize the road you are cycling isn’t just on a map. It’s in you. And it’s still being written.

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Masood Riazati is the Content Creator on the 2025 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour.

A few days ago, nineteen adventurous people stood in the quiet chill of a Tallinn morning, pretending not to be strangers. There is something tender – almost theatrical – about the first hours of a shared journey. Everyone plays a role they haven’t yet rehearsed: the seasoned cyclist, the quiet observer, the enthusiastic amateur but beneath the surface, we are all merely waiting to be known, hoping for a rhythm to emerge.

How strange it is to set off across a continent with people whose names I hardly remember, yet how quickly it already feels like something more than coincidence. I suppose what surprises me most is the quiet choreography of it all. Someone offers to be a navigator. A rider lingers to check another’s tire pressure. A laugh cuts through a headwind like sunlight.

Our oldest rider is 75, the youngest 29 – though numbers can be deceiving and everyone moves with the spirit of a twenty-year-old. Some have crossed continents before; others are just setting out on their first adventure. What unites them is a shared longing for new discoveries, fresh connections and the kind of life lessons that only the road can offer. No one talks about it, but I sense it in the way they ride.

Behind every great performance, however, is a crew – unglamorous, indispensable and serene. Gergo is our Tour Leader, an experienced cyclist with an endless reserve of energy and knowledge about the continent. Balazs is the chef, the assistant, the driver – to name just a few of his roles. He’s what you might call a Swiss Army knife: versatile, always ready and essential to the team. Jenna, the tour assistant, and Olha, the tour support, appear precisely when needed – saying little, offering much. Jordi, the bike mechanic, is a kind of magician. He fixes bikes but more importantly, he listens while doing so. They do not ask for applause. They understand the art of disappearing at the right time. And then there’s me – the content creator – whose job is to observe, to remember and to record. Not just what happened, but how it felt.

After four days of biking, we arrived in Latvia. It’s tempting to think the tour has now begun but maybe that’s not true. Maybe the first few days of any journey aren’t the beginning, but a rehearsal – a space where we learn to be seen differently, and more importantly, to see differently. What lies ahead is uncertain: new terrain, new weather, new moods but already, I sense a truth forming – quietly and without permission.

We are not yet a family. No, no, that would be too sentimental but the foundations, those light, almost invisible gestures of care are unmistakably beginning to form.

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At just over a week long, this section of the Trans-Europa Cycling Tour packs a lot into 850 kms. It begins in Nice with its incredible pair of Art Museums – Musée Matisse and Musée Marc Chagall, stops for a rest day in Montpellier, home to some of the world’s most striking modern architecture such as the Saint-Roch train station designed by Christian Lacroix, and finishes in Barcelona, famous for its local cuisine like botifarra amb mongetes (beans and sausages) and paella.

There is more! Along the route, riders will discover some lesser known highlights that are equally deserving of their attention.

Moissac Bellevue (Aups)

Chateau de Taurenne

Cycling into Aups at the end of the first stage of this section, riders should keep an eye out for the imposing Chateau de Taurenne on their left. Built by the Order of the Templars in the 12th century it is one of the last buildings in the area still remaining from the Middle Ages. Since 1999 over 11,000 olive trees have been planted around the chateau and riders can visit its olive oil mill and try some of the notable local varieties like Bouteillan, Aglandau, Ribier, Grossane or Cayon.

Salon-de-Provence

In addition to featuring a family-run soap factory with a small museum detailing the industry’s local history, Salon-de-Provence is best known as the place where Nostradamus spent his last years (1544 – 1566). He was buried in a local church and his old residence now houses a museum where displays of his scrolls and other documents tell the story of his life.

Saint-Cyprien

With an average of over 320 days of sunshine each year, riders are pretty much guaranteed a pleasant visit to the city’s fabulous port. They can watch the daily catch arrive early in the morning or enjoy a delicious meal at one of the waterfront restaurants…fresh fish, of course. There is also a sprawling beach or the relaxing Jardin des Plantes des Capellans to explore before the next stage of cycling.

Tossa de Mar

The historic city of Tossa de Mar, located just across the border in Spain features some spectacular beaches and amazing views out over the Mediterranean. It is also known for its Vila Vella, a fortified medieval town dating from the 14th century. Within its well preserved walls, complete with turrets and towers, are cobblestoned streets and a number of historical buildings including the ancient Hospital of Sant Miquel.

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Riders who join the ‘Along The Riviera’ section of the Trans-Europa Cycling Tour will be understandably excited about the start city, Venice, the rest day city, Genoa, and the finish city, Nice. All three are justifiably famous for their history, culture and architecture. What may come as a pleasant surprise is that each of the other nightly stops takes place in a town with some remarkable highlights of their own.

Chioggia

Also known as ‘Little Venice’ due to its picturesque canals and narrow alleyways, Chiogga features a Museum of Adriatic Zoology, a Romanesque watchtower, the Torre dell’Orologio S. Andrea, with a medieval clock and is famous for its tradition of lacemaking.

Wikipedia Fun fact: “Chioggia represents an almost unique demographic case in Italy: the most common surname among the inhabitants is Zennaro. Because of the large number of people with the same surname, the comune officialized what is known as “detto” (popular nicknames used to distinguish the various branches of the same family). These “third names” are inserted in every official document, including the driving license and the identity card.”

Ferrara

Estense Castle

Ferrara was a major Renaissance power led by the Este Dukes who created a city of wide boulevards and impressive castles. The architecture is striking; from the Diamanti Palace, home to the National Picture Gallery, to the 9 kms of brick walls built in the 15th century that surround the city.

Wikipedia Fun fact:  “Ferrara gave birth to Girolamo Savonarola, the famous medieval Dominican priest and leader of Florence from 1494 until his execution in 1498. He was known for his book burning, destruction of what he considered immoral art, and hostility to the Renaissance.”

Parma

Known for its famous Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Prosciutto di Parma ham (Yum!!), this city features the University of Parma, one of the oldest in the world, as well as a variety of beautiful Romanesque buildings including the Cathedral, the 12th century Santa Croce church and the Baptistery.

Wikipedia Fun fact:  “The Palatine Library houses the largest collection of Hebrew manuscripts in Italy, and the second-largest in the world after the Bodleian Library in Oxford.”

Bobbio

Ponte del Diavolo (Devil Bridge)

Widely considered one of Italy’s most beautiful small villages, Bobbio sits along the shores of the Trebbia River. Its most famous landmark is the Ponte Vecchio, also known as the Hunchback or Devil’s Bridge. Almost 300m long with 11 arches, it is said to be over 1000 years old, perhaps having been constructed by the Romans.

Wikipedia Fun fact: “Recent historical-artistic studies and confirmed scientific hypotheses have shown that the landscape that is the background to Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa is taken from Bobbio.”

Imperia

Created by merging Porto Maurizio and Oneglia in 1923, this coastal city covers two sides of the Impero River and is a popular retreat for tourists in the summer months. Porto Maurizio’s narrow lanes and old town feature a large Cathedral and the Convent of Santa Chiara which dates from the 14th century.

Wikipedia Fun fact: “During the Napoleonic Wars Napoleon Bonaparte himself stopped for a night in Porto Maurizio and spent the night on the Parrasio on the third floor of Palazzo Lavagna.”

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“For us, born in the early sixties, it was a not possible to go to the east part of Europe during the Cold War. So now we want to see also that part of Europe.”

Herman Sans has participated in many of our tours around the world – from South America and North America to the Journey to the East in Korea and Japan and is currently cycling in Italy on the Viva Italia. Last year Herman and his wife Ada decided on a big adventure closer to home – crossing all of Europe from the northeast to the southwest on the Trans-Europa. You might recall we wrote about this ‘Crazy European Diagonal’ in the spring when we had a chat with Frenchman, Stéphane Lancereau.

>>VIDEO: Click here to watch the video preview of the route.

We recently asked Herman to think back to his Trans-Europa ride and share some highlights and the reason why he chose this tour in Europe, just as Stéphane had. Here’s what he had to say:

“The start in the Baltic states was very nice. Cycling was not to hilly and most of the route was on very calm roads. People were quiet but friendly. And a lot of them spoke English.” Herman went on to say that Poland appeared a little more poor than the first 3 countries and much more Catholic but that “the big cities were modern and Warsaw, especially, was a worthwhile rest day.”

>>Read all about the dates, details and prices for the 2025 Trans-Europa

His ride continued south and “after some hilly cycling, we came to Slovakia. It was another modern country with very friendly people. Then came Hungary.” Herman marvelled about Budapest where “it became another world, very modern and fancy cars. Budapest was a very nice city with its walkable centre. Especially the old bridge.”

Herman in the Baltics

I asked Herman the inevitable question – what was the best part? “Concerning cycling, I think Slovenia was the most beautiful country. Nice roads and great nature…everything was clean. Also the city of Ljubljana was not too big but very friendly.”

After Slovenia, the Trans-Europa drops out of the mountains into Italy and reached the iconic city of Venice. “Venice was, of course, something that you have to see but for us it was not the most important.  Food and coffee and wine were of course very good.” After that, the route follows the sunny coast of the Mediterranean of Italy and then France, and as Herman remarked, “France was France. Nice weather and the great Mediterranean life.”

Then the group entered Spain and followed the Costa Brava.“After that we cycled along the coast in the direction of Barcelona. It’s a very big city but easy to enter using the wonderful cycling lanes. It has a very beautiful centre and great food. The part between Barcelona and Valencia is mostly along the coast but sometimes busy. After Valencia, we entered the interior of Spain, away from the coast. This was very very nice. In spite of having a lot of climbing and sometimes having very hot weather, the nature was breathtaking.”

Herman summed up his Trans-Europa tour like this… “We think that the nicest part for cycling was Slovenia and the part in Spain after Valencia. The best espresso was in Italy. The best bread in France. The nicest people in the Baltic states.”

Herman’s advice to you – whether you live in Europe or anywhere else? “It is a tour for everyone all over the world but take on the whole tour, not just a part of it. Then you have time to get in good shape for some of the hard days. It is a TDA tour ?.”

Video Preview of the Route

Please enjoy this video overview and consider reaching out to us with any questions. Spaces are open for the 2025 tour (it starts in July) if you want to join, perhaps for a week or maybe to tackle the tour in its entirety.

A special thanks to videographer Ethan Weil who travelled with the cyclists in 2023 and created this video series for us. 

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To many of us, one of the best rewards after a long, challenging cycling stage is a cold beer. The riders on the 2025 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour will be happy to know that their route across Europe will take them through some serious beer drinking cultures. From Estonia, where beer has been brewed for over 1000 years, to Poland, Europe’s 3rd largest beer producer, to Gibraltar, with its fine British ales, the riders will never be lacking for a brewski after their ride.

Not everyone, however, loves beer so we thought we would take a look at the options for a different post-ride beverage, something with a little more oomph! Here are our suggestions:

Estonia

Vana Tallinn – Riders will warm up to this unique liqueur, created in 1960 by Ilse Maar, a legendary Estonian liqueur artist. It is a mix of rum, orange, lemon and aromatic spices, including cinnamon and anise. A perfect choice after a cool, rainy ride or on a sunny patio in old Tallinn. You can even visit the Liviko distillery in Tallinn for a tour!

Fun Fact – According to Food & Wine Magazine, this liqueur was used as ‘currency’ under Soviet occupation in place of the ruble. Even today in post-Soviet countries, older people know it -Vana Tallinn is a kind of currency. For a bottle of Vana Tallinn, you can still get yourself help if you have a problem.

Latvia

Cocktail: Black Night Dancer (Balsam & Coke)

Balsam Herbal Bitter – The first Balsams (herbal extracts) were brought to Europe by Marco Polo and slowly spread through Europe. This particular drink was created by an apothecary named Kunze in the 1700’s and used by Catherine the Great to recover from an illness as she passed through Riga on her way back to Russia. Flavors include blackcurrant, cherry and brandy.

Fun Fact – The secret recipe is only known to the Headmaster and 2 apprentices and in 1939 the recipe was temporarily lost when German population left Latvia before Soviet occupation.

Lithuania

Midus (Mead) –  The world’s oldest alcoholic beverage is made from grain, honey (up to 50%) and water and can be flavoured with thyme, lemon, cinnamon, cherries, linden blossoms, juniper berries and hops. Some meads should be served cold while others are best at room temperature. Riders will be happy to know that it also goes very well with sweet deserts!

Fun Fact – The ancient Lithuanian god for brewing mead was Ragutis or Rūgutis.

>>Related Post: The Beers of the Pub Ride: Little-known, Weird, Unexpected & Occasionally Appalling

Poland

Vodka – It is rumoured that vodka originated in Poland in the 8th century but was first mentioned in the Akta Grozkie, a deed document from 1405. Try the Bison grass version or the Goldwasser, which contains gold flakes and is produced in Gdańsk. Człowiek nie wielbłąd, pić musi! (Man is not a camel, he must drink!)

Fun fact – At a Polish wedding, the bride and groom are presented with 2 shot glasses. One has vodka, the other water. The bride chooses first and then whoever drinks the glass with vodka will be the leader in the marriage.

Slovakia

Juniper berries

Borovička – This is made from ripe juniper fruits (black but not red) and dates from the 15th century. It is similar to gin but much stronger tasting. During the Hapsburg monarchy it was exported on rafts down the Vah River to the Danube and on to the cities of Budapest and Vienna.

Fun Fact – Because of its distinctive juniper flavour, a night of too much Borovička can be referred to as “revenge from the forest.”

Hungary

Pálinka – This spirit originated in medieval Hungary and is traditionally made from mashed fruit like apricots, pears, and plums, sour cherries, apples, mulberries, and quince. There are very strict regulations regarding its authenticity, commonly referred to as the ‘pálinka law.’ Its alcoholic content can be up to a very strong 55% which I personally discovered, much to my regret the next day, on the 2023 Trans-Europa.

Fun fact – Budapest has a Pálinka Museum where you can learn all about this local spirit.

>>Related Post: Elephant’s, Tigers & Sheep’s Piss: A Cyclist’s Guide To The Beers Of South East Asia

Slovenia

Schnapps – Known as ‘Zganje’ in Slovenian, there are a number of versions like peach, lemon and blueberry but the local favourite is viljamoka, flavoured with the Williams pear. While you can get mass-produced bottles in the supermarkets, local bars pride themselves on stocking a variety of schnapps made nearby, likely in someone’s garage.

Fun Fact – Annual homemade schnapps competitions can involve tasting 25 entries or more! 😯

Italy

Grappa – We all know how great Italian wine is but you should definitely try this local brandy, made from the skins, pulp, seeds and stems left over after pressing the grapes used to make wine. It is best enjoyed in stemmed nosing glasses and slightly chilled as a digestif after a meal.

Fun fact – Some critics consider grappa to be nothing more than a fancy version of moonshine.

France

Champagne – When you want to celebrate something, you immediately think of champagne, so when the Trans-Europa riders arrive in France, they can bring out the flutes and raise a toast to their achievement. Started from vineyards planted by the Romans in the 5th century, it began as a still wine, the sparkling bubbles being added almost by mistake by the early winemakers including the Benedictine monk, Dom Pérignon.

Fun fact – After the October Revolution in Russia in 1917, champagne was prohibited and a class system of alcoholic beverages was introduced…hello, vodka!

>>Related Post: The Beers Of Africa

Spain

Sangria – This drink doesn’t have the same long history as say, vodka or mead, having just emerged in the late 18th century in the Andalusia region of Spain. It usually consists of a mixture of red wine, various chopped fruits and a splash brandy or triple sec and its popularity really took off after it was served at the Spanish pavilion at the 1964 World’s Fair in New York City.

Fun fact – Sangria is believed to have derived its name from the Spanish word for blood – sangre.

Gibraltar

Gin – No alcoholic beverage is more representative of Britain and its overseas territories than gin. From the ‘Gin Craze’ in the early 18th century in London where it was called ‘Mother’s ruin’ to the ubiquitous gin and tonics used in its tropical colonies to ward off malaria, gin is simply interwoven into British history.

Fun fact – Gibraltar is home to its very own craft gin distillery – The Gibraltar Distillery Company.

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Olha Kurochkina joined the TDA Global Cycling team in early 2023 as Office Manager. In this piece, she takes a personal look back at Warsaw, one of the first places she ended up after fleeing the war in Ukraine.

Among our dearest alumni there will definitely be people who can better depict the wonderful city of Warsaw. I’m sure many of our riders have been there before and some new cyclists will visit the city next summer on the 2025 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour. However, I would like to share my personal impressions of the capital of Poland and pay credit to those amazing people who supported my family and I in the darkest days of my life. When fleeing from the war in Ukraine, I found myself in Warsaw in March, 2022, and lived there until July, when I moved to Canada. I found such great support, and on behalf of many, many Ukrainians, I want to thank this great country, and most important, its citizens, who were one of the first to lend a helping hand to their neighbours in need.

Having been neither a tourist nor a permanent resident, I was shown the city in the way it is seen by the Varsovians, people who love their city wholeheartedly. It was one of my last days in Poland when my good friend, a noble ‘Warszawiak’ (Varsovian in Polish) took me for a walking tour around his favourite places in the city and literally infected me with the love and respect for a city which was almost totally destroyed in WWII. It was rebuilt very quickly and has now become one of the most modern, digital and fast-growing cities of Eastern Europe.

Syrenka, the mermaid of Warsaw

So, let us dismount our bikes for a while, and explore Syrenka’s favourite spots (Syrena, the mermaid, is a symbol of Warsaw and features prominently in its coat of arms and is a poetic or symbolic way of referring to the city). If you would like to see the city by bike (they call a bicycle “rover”), that is also great idea. The biking lanes are great and are almost everywhere in the city.

Palace of Culture and Science

Rest assured, wherever you go in Warsaw, you will be able to see the towering Palace of Culture and Science. When I first visited Warsaw, I called it the ‘Polish Mona Lisa’ – no matter where you go in the city, it’s always there, looking at you! Locals hate it. No surprise, as it was a gift from the Soviet Union to Poland to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the People’s Republic of Poland. The design was inspired by Soviet architecture, particularly the Stalinist style. So the best way to escape its imposing presence is to go to the top of the building itself. On the 30th floor, there’s an observation deck that offers spectacular panoramic views of Warsaw and its surroundings. It’s a popular spot for both tourists and locals so it’s better to make a reservation beforehand but with the price of less than $7, it’s totally worth it.

Anytime I talk to friends who are going to Warsaw I make them promise that they will visit my favourite bar in the whole universe! It is called Piana Vyshnia (Drunk Cherry) and offers only a single product – the most delicious cherry liqueur you ever tried. The atmosphere is exquisite and very special to my heart as it is a famous Ukrainian brand, with locations all over Western Europe. I, personally, made a solid contribution to their prosperity, taking all my friends and colleagues to their location in Warsaw. When I was moving to Canada, I had to sacrifice some stuff in my baggage to fit in a of couple of bottles as well as a pair of marvellous crystal glasses, which are a signature souvenir from this bar. My sincerest advice is to pay a visit to Piana Vyshnia whenever you’re in Warsaw, Budapest, Bratislava or Vilnius. Just do it! (And grab a bottle for me if you are from Ontario, I’ll pay you double the price).

If you would like to refresh after couple of glasses at the Drunk Cherry (you will never stop at just one), my recommendation would be to take the 107 or 520 bus (the public transport in Warsaw is great and cheap) and visit my favourite Lazienki (Royal Baths) Park.

Lazienki Palace

If you prefer walking, that is also a good option. It won’t take more than 40 minutes. You can also use your bike to get there, but you can’t ride inside the park. Wander away from the main paths and discover secluded spots like the Amphitheatre, the Old Orangery, and the beautiful Chinese Garden. In summer, free Chopin concerts are held by the park’s famous statue, offering a cultural escape in the heart of nature. Admission to park is free but you might want to delve deeper into history of this enchanting place and visit some exhibitions with a package ticket for $20.

Warsaw Uprising Museum

In my life there have been several places I visited which were really unforgettable. Two of them are in Poland. The first is Auscwitz-Birkenau, not far from another amazing city of Krakow, which truly deserves a separate blog. The second is located in Warsaw, out of the Old City’s touristic spots. I’m talking about the Warsaw Uprising Museum. Both of them, to my mind, are absolute must-visits for every human being in order to confront the uncomfortable truths about human nature, society and the capacity for cruelty. It serves as a call to action to promote tolerance, human rights and dignity for all. The Warsaw Uprising Museum is a deeply moving and essential stop for anyone seeking to understand the city’s history.

It is dedicated to the 1944 uprising against the Nazi occupation. The museum offers a powerful, immersive experience through multimedia exhibits, artifacts, and personal stories that detail the bravery and resilience of the Polish resistance. While it can’t exactly be called a ‘hidden gem’, it often gets overlooked by those who focus solely on Warsaw’s historical old town. The museum serves as both a memorial and a reminder of the city’s indomitable spirit. I was most impressed by watching the video of all the destruction from the bird’s eye view. By the end of the war, approximately 85% of Warsaw had been destroyed. The Old Town, a symbol of Warsaw’s heritage, was almost completely levelled. Together with the bitterness that I felt, I came out of the Museum with an after-taste of hope. I saw a beautiful city, its people, and their beauty. While significant portions of Warsaw were restored by the 1970s and 1980s, the process of rebuilding, renovating, and modernizing the city has continued into the present day. Warsaw’s transformation from a war-torn city to a thriving capital is one of the most remarkable urban recovery stories in modern history. This gives me the optimism and aspiration that one day we can expect resurrection for my native Ukraine.

Warsaw sunset

To get away from these heavy thoughts, let’s hop on the #20 streetcar (we call it tram in Europe) that will take you straight to the Old Town and the banks of the Vistula River. Have some patience not to get off right there and cross the river at sunset to experience a marvellous view to the city, with its castles, museums and modern skyscrapers. I saw it thanks to a friend of mine and will stay with me forever. Since you are now already in the district of Praga Północ, you might want to have a good stroll around it. It’s one of the oldest districts in Warsaw, known for its unique character, vibrant arts scene, and historical significance. Unlike much of Warsaw, Praga Północ largely survived the destruction of World War II, allowing visitors to experience a more authentic pre-war atmosphere. Depending on your preferences and time available, you may enjoy the Museum of Neon, visit Praga Park and Zoo, go shopping at Michałowski Bazaar, or relax on the beach. Just make sure to ask locals where the name “Praga” came from. You’ll be surprised, I promise (nothing in common with Prague).

Above all the incredible places and experiences, what truly left an indelible mark on my heart were the people I met. The warmth, kindness, and unwavering support of the Varsovians turned a difficult chapter in my life into one filled with hope and resilience. Warsaw’s story is one of triumph over adversity, a spirit embodied by its citizens who welcomed me with open arms during my darkest days. As you explore this remarkable city, take a moment to connect with the people who call it home. Walk the streets, bike the lanes and listen to their stories – their histories are intertwined with the city’s very fabric. I am certain that, like me, you will find it impossible to remain indifferent to the city’s charm and the strength of its people. When you do, please share your impressions with me. Oh, and a bottle of Drunk Cherry too, of course.

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“When, after much research, I ended up finding TDA, I was delighted… I had to, as a European, make this Crazy European Diagonal…I discovered countries that I did not know (Baltic States, Poland, Hungary, etc.), others of which I deepened my knowledge (Italy, Spain). A great playground for cyclists with magnificent landscapes, maximum safety for cyclists, dream cuisine… In addition, I only met super friendly cyclists. The whole group was really fantastic and I also created links with certain people who I know will push us to repeat…other trips are planned! Also, thanks to the Tour Leader and his Team.” – Stéphane from France

Stéphane as he pedalled across Europe last summer

As our 2024 European tours got underway, I started looking ahead to the summer of 2025 and, in particular, at a very special tour on our calendar. The Trans-Europa is by far the longest supported cycling tour offered in Europe. At nearly 6,000 km, it is a bit of a monster. It started out in 2010 as a much ‘shorter’ 3,400 km tour from St. Petersburg to Venice called the Amber Route. I was the Tour Leader for that one and it was fantastic. I remember the forests of the Baltics, the beauty of the Tatras mountains in Poland and Slovakia, having a tasty donut at the top of a gruelling climb in Slovenia, and experiencing Italian cuisine in Italy for the first time. I remember leading an eager group of riders exploring a continent by bike. It all ended with a big celebration in Venice. What a treat! How lucky we all were to have had that experience.

>>VIDEO: Click here to watch the video preview of the route found at the end of this blog.

The TDA team, however, is a restless bunch. With our somewhat warped outlook on things, the tour was somehow not long enough and so we doubled the length and renamed it the Trans-Europa – an epic and truly singular European cycling adventure (The Amber Route is now the name of one section of this much longer trip).

It has been a while since I have been a part of that tour, so I decided to reach out to Stéphane, one of the 2023 participants, and Gergo, our longtime European Tour Leader, to tell me a bit about their impressions of the route.

Stéphane Remembers the Cycling and the Friendships

When I asked Stéphane to describe what his experience cycling the Trans-Europa was like, he created a new term I’d never before heard – the Crazy European Diagonal. Crazy – yes, in the sense that it’s crazy long, crazy ambitious and perhaps just a bit crazy to consider participating in.  Diagonal – yes indeed! Starting in Europe’s Northeast, in the Estonian capital Tallinn, the participants pedal southwest across 11 (!) European countries – ending at the iconic Rock of Gibraltar.

But Stéphane didn’t stop there:

“Straightness, flatness and new beautiful roads in the Three Baltic States, the visit to Poland, a country so important to our European history, the rural side of Slovakia, peaceful, quiet and restful, discovering Budapest, a lively, bustling city full of energy, the high-percentage days in the climbs of Slovenia and Italy, the Italian and French elegance, and also the excellent and delicious cuisine in these two countries. The traces of the past still present in Italy, in particular in Venice and Genoa, the small roads along the Mediterranean coast (with or without flamingoes), the charming little villages of Provence, nestled in the hills, for a refreshing drink under the plane trees, the kindness and generosity of the Spanish people and southern Spain with Olive groves as far as the eye can see.”

He also remembers some of the many special moments had on the tour:

“Silent breakfasts and much noisier aperitifs. Discussions, laughter, exchanges (despite my horrible French accent) and Coke Stop or Coffee with friends. ‘Virtual’ border crossings (no more customs) still allow photos to be taken. The difficult and long climb to Bobbio in the scorching heat, as well as, after, the excellent dinner in the evening. The climb to Nice, with a wonderful view of Monaco in the bottom. A dinner in Barcelona with my [fellow cyclist and] New Zealand Rugby Player, watching the first Match of the World Championship between… New Zealand and France. The healthy vision of the Red Van, synonymous with delicious and varied meals [at the roadside lunch]. Inflating the tires in the morning, looking for the white pump (my favorite).”

Gergo Shares Some Advice

Some of the highlights Gergo recalls were the delicious pierogis, haluski and goulash found in central Europe. He recalls the ride along Lake Balaton in Hungary, then some hillier days in Slovenia, cruising along the Po River and climbing up into the Apennines after Venice.

There is the Côte d’Azur in Provence with the lingering smell of fresh herbs in the air, before you return to the coast along the French Riviera. The double rest day in the Barcelona and El Toro, the final section of the tour that has some hidden gems as well. Gergo says it’s “more than just a ride on the coast. Hidden mountain villages, good days of cycling with decent amount of climbs and rewarding downhills with the view of Sierra Nevada.” 

So it may be a Crazy European Diagonal, but as Gergo says “Do not worry about a thing. There is enough time to get accustomed to the bike touring lifestyle, while every day will bring you something new and unique.”

Video Preview of the Route

Please enjoy this section-by-section overview and consider reaching out with your questions. Spaces are open if you want to join for a week or tackle the tour in its entirety.

A special thanks to videographer Ethan Weil who travelled with the cyclists in 2023 and created this video series for us. 

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“The TDA team completely exceeded my expectations. The route was stunning, challenging, and fun!“

We have run the Trans-Europa Cycling Expedition, the longest supported cycling tour in Europe, 6 times since 2012 – 3 times from St Petersburg to Lisbon, once from Helsinki to Lisbon (Thank you Mr Putin), once from Ljubljana to Gibraltar (Thank you COVID) and in 2023 from Tallinn to Gibraltar. In 2025, inshallah, we will meet up again in Tallinn for the journey across 11 European countries.

Over the years, there have been a number of great blogs from the tour, designed to give you an idea of all the amazing sights and experiences that come with such an epic transcontinental journey. Here are 5 of our favourites:

1 – Bike Trails & Urban Lanes: Discovering The Bike Culture Of The Baltic States

2023 Content Creator Ethan Weil took a look at the fast developing bike infrastructure in the Baltic States and visited Latvia’s unique Saulkrasti Bicycle Museum. “Simply put, the Baltic States are a beautiful and tranquil place to ride a bike.”

2 – 8 Potential Side Effects Of Cycling Across Europe

In 2018 TDA Founder Henry Gold took a light-hearted look at the potential ‘risks’ of cycling across Europe on trips like the Trans-Europa. “Europe is the most popular cycling destination in the world so it may surprise you to learn that when you take a long cycling trip through the area, there are real dangers lurking along the roads and trails.”

3 – Montpellier to Barcelona – 5 days on the Trans Europa

2014 Trans-Europa cyclist Clive Smith took a closer look at the 5 riding days between Montpellier, France and Barcelona, Spain. “The riding itself was stunning. We travel through Frances largest wine producing region and you can see why – endless miles of red and white grapes grow in the vineyards – stopping to taste a few of these sweet fruits is an absolute pleasure.”

4 – 10 Reasons You Should Cross Europe On A Bike

What’s the best way to cross Europe? To Founder Henry Gold, the answer is obvious – by bike. “How else can you meet local farmers working the fields one day, visit a great museum the next day, find a quiet historical town the day after and enjoy a great workout all at the same time?”

5 – Keszthely: Museums, Museums, Museums!

You never know what a small town in Hungary might surprise you with. TDA staffer Michael Coo joined the 2023 Trans-Europa for the Alps & Adriatic section and was delighted by what he discovered in Keszthely. “Paris might have the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay and the Palace at Versailles but it ain’t got nothing on this town!”

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The 2023 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour finished in the shadow of the Rock of Gibraltar just a couple months ago and the lucky riders who rode all, or part, of the way from Talliin, Estonia across 11 European countries had a wonderful journey.

The 2025 Trans-Europa is now open for registration. The 2023 ride sold out early so don’t delay…sign up for this unique transcontinental cycling adventure and start dreaming of pedalling across Europe.

“I was satisfied, delighted, fulfilled, full… tired! My eyes, my mind, my legs loved it!” – Stéphane Lancereau (France)

“Perfect way to visit new countries, visit touristic and less touristic spots. socialize with fellow riders and all by bike 🙂 What’s not to like?” – Remmelt Van der wal (Netherlands)

“Cycling the TransEuropa is a mind blowing experience. Challenging, but so rewarding.“- Julie Richert (USA)

“Thoroughly enjoyed the staff, friendliness of other riders and the challenge of riding the mountains.” – Susan Silcox (Canada)

“Loved the route and the excellent planning.” – Wayne Grover (Canada)

“The food and scenery were amazing. It is an experience I will never forget and I hope to do something like this again soon.” – Robin Locken (Canada)

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Ethan Weil was the Content Creator on the 2023 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour.  He sends his final report from Gibraltar.

We have just finished the 2023 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour. It was quite the journey, filled with epic landscapes, historic cities, incredible food, fascinating history and lasting friendships! It was an emotional moment, turning the final corner that revealed the 426 m (1,398 ft) limestone Rock of Gibraltar, the finish line for this 2 1/2 month ride across Europe. The end of a tour can be a flurry of emotions – excitement, gratitude, contentment. There is even a slight bittersweet feeling in the air as the riders prepare to transition from such an adventure back into their daily lives all around the world. The connections made during the tour can develop into lifelong friendships and result in a wonderful network of cycling crazed personalities from all over the world.

Arriving in Gibraltar felt like a perfect way to finish the tour. As we got closer to the British overseas territory we enjoyed our last moments in Spain before crossing the border…where we even had to cycle across the airport runway. It is a truly unique experience. Where else can you bike on an active airport landing strip?! It provided us with a great view of the famous rock with the skyscrapers below providing a unique perspective. Cycling through the town, we soon arrived at our hotel for a sip of bubbly to celebrate the end of the tour!

As the last few days on this tour are a mix of celebration and a scramble of bike boxing logistics, I highly recommend staying for a few days to relax, reflect on the experience and explore the surrounding area. Gibraltar, although a small place, is packed with things to do! We stayed at The Rock Hotel, a beautiful historical hotel with a luxurious art deco aesthetic, perched on the western face of the Rock. The rooms have balcony views overlooking the Bay of Gibraltar where barges, cargo ships, sail boats and military vessels can be seen sailing in and out of the Mediterranean Sea.

Great sunset views can be enjoyed and once the sun dips down below the horizon, the city lights take over. You can see lights from Gibraltar, Spain, and even Morocco out in the distance to the south. On clear days one will be able to see the African continent during the day from the southern beaches or from the top of the viewpoints around Gibraltar. If you’re looking for a relaxing activity, just below the hotel is the Botanical Garden of Gibraltar where it is free for the public to walk around and enjoy all the unique flora.

A trip up to the top of the Rock is an excellent idea as there are plenty of activities up there. As it is quite a steep hike to the top, there is a cable car that will take you up quickly and efficiently. There are also tour vehicles that can take you to all the sites around the Rock. One guide I can recommend is my taxi driver, Alan, who runs Guided Rock Tours. He’s a longtime local and passionate about showing his home to visitors. Whether you choose to walk up, take the cable car, or a tour van, once on the Rock you can enjoy the great views of the surrounding area. Across the bay you can see the Spanish city of Algeciras. If you have multiple days to spend in the area, you can consider booking a ferry ride from Port Algeciras to Morocco, about an hour ferry ride one way.

The highlights to see on the Rock start with Europe’s only monkey population, the Barbary Macaques. They are fun to watch but be aware that they have been known to be little thieves, snagging phones, food, bags and other miscellaneous items. After visiting the Macaques, I suggest making your way to see St. Michaels Cave. I knew very little about what to expect and was blown away by its incredible cave system. Large stalagmites create columns around the cave and there is a light show that is projected onto the cave walls every seven minutes. From the top of the Rock you can also explore World War Two bunkers to learn about the military history of the area. If you get hungry or fancy a drink, there is a restaurant there where you can enjoy the views and relax before taking the cable car back down.

Gibraltar is a special and unique destination and makes for an action-packed ending for the tour. It is a great place to unwind, explore with fellow riders and reflect on the tour. It was heartwarming being able to hear everyone’s exciting and memorable moments from the ride alongside with what plans they have for the future.

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Ethan Weil is the Content Creator on the 2023 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour.  He reports on the Spanish city of Valencia, where the riders enjoyed a well-deserved rest day.

“I believe this is my favourite city on tour so far!” – Geoff Bailey

The comforting golden hue of the sun reflected off the ornate architecture in the last few hours of daylight. We had just arrived in Valencia and I was speechless at just how beautiful the city was! Gorgeous architecture lurked around every twist and turn, every detail was well thought out and perfectly placed. Not one building was remotely the same. Thankfully, we had a rest day to explore the city and after talking to a few other riders on tour I’m not the only one that fell in love with the city of Valencia!

Font de la Plaça de I’Ajuntament

It has to be one of the most charming cities in Spain, if not the world. It’s blessed with balmy weather year-round and is surrounded by a line of beaches with Blue Flag status – Cabanyal, Malvarrosa and Arbre del Gos. This rating guarantees the quality of the water, the sand, and ensures respect for the environment. With impressive architecture, both old and new, the city rivals any other when it comes to the arts and design. Santiago Calatrava, a famous architect and Valencian native, designed many of the buildings within the city such as the Queen Sofia Palace of Arts, Hemisfèric (IMAX Theater & 3D Cinema), Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe (Science Museum), Agora (Cultural Center) and L’Umbracle Sculpture Garden. He was also responsible for such notable buildings around the world like the World Trade Center in New York and the Creek Tower in Dubai. Valencia, home to hundreds of brilliant architectural creations, was named World Design Capital of the world in 2022.

Santiago Calatrava Architectural Designs

Founded by the Romans, Valencia’s history spans over 2,000 years. As one of the oldest cities in Spain its strategic location in the Mediterranean has made it a vital asset to the country. I was surprised to learn that its port is now the main economic driver and influencer within the region of Western Mediterranean and is the most efficient port in southern Europe.

Now, let’s talk food! More specifically, the delectable dish, paella! One of the most well known, if not the most famous dish in Spanish cuisine, it’s a rice dish that originated in Valencia. There is even  a  tournament – World Paella Day – where they celebrate the dish and Valencian culture and host a global competition to see who can make the world’s most delicious paella! Last year’s winner took home the cup representing France and this year the competition is taking place on September 20th.

Iberian ham paella

There are many great places in Valencia to get paella and you simply can’t go wrong with choosing one or another. I can personally recommend the restaurant at the base of the Queen Sofia Palace of the Arts – Restaurante Contrapunto Les Arts – for for a lunch paella. It opens at noon but doesn’t serve food until 13:30. What makes this place special is that you get to eat and drink on the outside patio surrounded by the decorative waters that line the beautiful architecture created by the Santiago Calatrava. I ordered a coffee to start before having the Carne Paella which came with Iberian ham

Overall, the food and drink scene in Valencia is simply fantastic! Moving beyond paella, the city has all the gastronomic choice that your heart could desire. On the night we arrived in Valencia, I joined rider Ming-Jiing for dinner at a Chinese restaurant called Min Dou. Ming revealed that the reason we went is that, “Sometimes I miss the food I have at home and so on rest days I look for a good Chinese restaurant to go to.” It was a great meal and I got to experience a part of the city that I wouldn’t have otherwise visited.

I strongly suggest spending a morning sitting outside at a local cafe, enjoying the early activities of the day and taking in the surroundings. In the evening, if you fancy a drink, feel free to explore the multitude of bars and restaurants scattered around the city. Valencia breaths anew at night as people walk around, relax in parks and meet up with friends and family . The local cocktail of Valencia is Agua de Valencia. The ingredients include cava or champagne as a base, orange juice, and vodka and gin. If you want a rooftop viewing experience, particularly of the Queen Sofia Palace of Arts, visit the 270º Terrace at Barceló but be aware that it can fill up quickly. Arrive early or make a reservation in advance in order to enjoy the view Valencia from above!

Mercado Central

Another notable highlight in Valencia is the Mercado Central Market. It is the largest fresh produce market in all of Europe with 1200 stalls serving fresh fruits and vegetables in a beautifully decorated building with Art Nouveau design.

Valencia truly has something for everyone of all ages and backgrounds. From festivals to operas, from art festivals to sporting events, there is always something going on. While staying for only a day makes it difficult to see everything, I hope you took something away from this little piece on Valencia and you can get out there to explore it for yourself.

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Ethan Weil is the Content Creator on the 2023 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour.  He sends this report on Slovenia and its amazing highlights.

There is, tucked away in Central Europe, an absolute hidden gem, perfect for all outdoor enthusiasts to visit. I’m talking about the beautiful country of Slovenia. It features an outdoor centric culture, an attitude to rival any others, and it shows through the records achieved, the events held, and the conservation efforts on display throughout the country. For winter sports, water sports and mountain sports, it’s truly an outdoor adventurer’s dream. I got to witness first hand the incredible beauty that Slovenia has to offer as our tour, the Trans-Europa, cycled through the country!

Putting the LOVE in sLOVEnia

The capital city, Ljubljana, translates to ‘Beloved’, fitting in many ways as it has a sustainable mindset in its development with green spaces both in the heart of the city and the surrounding areas. It is a educational experience walking around the city, as in other Slovenian cities, as the streets and parks are spotless due to a sophisticated garbage system that has separate bins for glass, packaging, paper, residual waste and organic waste. Not only that but there are also numerous street sweepers and a community outlook that cares for the city and the surrounding nature.

One thing that is immediately noticeable once you enter the country are the lush green forests. That’s because Slovenia makes it a priority to protect and conserve the natural environment. About 60% of the country is covered by forests and overall about 41% of all Slovenian territory is protected through conservation.

The Adventurous Spirit

While we were cycling through the country I made it my goal to explore and highlight the outdoor culture of Slovenia as well as to show what one can do while having a rest day in Ljubljana.

Outdoor activities in Slovenia seem to be endless! Want to rock climb under a castle? You got it! Want to cycle in a cave? Can do! Want to paraglide off a mountain and see the landscape from an adrenaline-rushing, bird’s eye view? You betcha! With a mountainous landscape that runs down the sea, there’s a tremendous amount of activities to choose from: climbing, mountaineering, hiking, cycling, mountain biking, rowing, kayaking, parachuting, canyoneering and caving. It’s no wonder that Slovenians have a deep love for the outdoors and with that, excel in a multitude of sports.

Many notable Slovenian names have achieved great things within the sporting world. When it pertains to cycling, one can’t help but mention the two-time winner of the Tour de France, Tadej Pogačar, who became the second youngest cyclist to win the prestigious race at the age of 21 years old. As a result, a growing cycling community can be seen whilst traveling through the country. There’s Primož Roglič, a former ski jumper turned world class cyclist, Janja Garnbret, a sport climber who is the first in the history of the sport to win the Olympic gold. and Alenka Artnik, a world record holder in free-diving. There are many other Slovenian athletes in sports like rowing, basketball, hockey, motocross, alpine mountaineering and many more.

Many unique outdoor events have been, and are being held, in Slovenia such as the Red Bull sponsored climb where two adventurers scaled the Trbovlje chimney, the highest flue-gas stack in Europe, standing 360 meters high. A popular film of this was subsequently made – the 360 Ascent. The 2023 European rowing championship were held in May at Lake Bled, a picturesque location nestled in the mountains just 55 kilometres from the capital.

So why tell you all this? Well it goes to show just how important the world of sports and recreation is to Slovenians and the country as a whole. Even the hotel we stayed at in the capital was broadcasting climbing competitions. What to do on the rest day in Ljubljana

It’s the age-old question on TDA tours – what to do on rest days? Sometimes they aren’t always restful as many riders choose to explore the town or city they’re in to see what it has to offer. From restaurants, tours, history, museums and more, there’s a little something for everyone on Slovenian rest days, especially whilst in Ljubljana. I talked with rider Nancy to see what she was going to do in Ljubljana and she noted, “I’m going to do a food tour as it’s a great way to meet new people and try local foods from the area you’re in! Sometimes it’s too much food.” I found this to be a great way to spend the time on a rest day as it’s a way to culturally immerse yourself along with meeting others who have a similar interest as you.

Things to do around the city are abundant. There are many cafes, restaurants and things to do within walking distance, along with just wandering aimlessly within the city. One can visit the Mesarski Bridge which has a bunch of love padlocks lining the rails but what is notable are the restaurants nearby. Riders Greg and Eve enjoyed eating by the canal right next to the bridge and have been back twice since they arrived in the city. Another thing to do would be to visit the castle that is in the heart of the city as it can be a good viewpoint from above. Otherwise, the castle in the Slovenian city of Celje is much more interesting to visit.

My Ljubljana Rest Day Suggestion

If you’re looking for a bit more of an active rest day while in Ljubljana, I have a couple of suggestions for you! While in the city, Michael Coo from the Toronto office had joined the tour and together we decided to wake up early at 6am to head to Lake Bled. I suggest visiting in the early morning to beat the traffic as well as to witness the stunning morning sunlight. It is an absolute fairytale of a lake to visit, as it has an island in the centre of the lake with a church built on it and a castle overlooking the surrounding beautiful landscape. There are a ton of activities to do around the lake and it’s only about 55 kilometres from Ljubljana. A bus ride from the city centre will take you straight here, taking about an hour to an hour and a half to reach the lake.

You can hire a wooden paddle boat called a ‘pletna’ which means ‘flat-bottomed boat’ which can take you out the island to walk around. I highly recommend this. It’s a pleasant and smooth ride as the boat doesn’t have a motor so all you hear is the chatter of your fellow boat passengers, the splash of the paddles and the occasional church bell. We got lucky and were able to watch paragliders sailing off the nearby mountains and over the lake as we traveled to the island which added to the overall adventurous atmosphere. Beyond the pletnas there are other ways to reach the island. One can rent a stand-up paddle board (SUP), kayak, or even swim to the island. From there visitors can enjoy a drink at the cafe, a little walk around the island’s edges or even scuba diving. There are plenty of large fish that feed near the shores of the island and can easily be seen through the crystal clear turquoise waters.

To reach the nearby castle requires a walk up quite a few stairs but the views make it all worthwhile! There’s a great exhibit about the castle which also includes history of the surrounding area. Worth some time to check it out. Once one feels they’ve seen enough of Lake Bled, it is time to head back to Ljubljana to rest or do laundry if needed. As it gets closer to sunset and the city lights come on, I suggest a stroll in the city. With restaurants opening up along the canal and people wandering through the street, the city comes to life.

If you’re looking for an alternative active rest day to Lake Bled, I would suggest booking a cycle tour through a cave. Slovenia is known to have over 10,000 caves and in a few of them, bike rides are offered, ranging from leisure rides to more technical riding. These companies can give you a ride from Ljubljana to the tour’s starting point.

Overall there are so many things to do while staying in the capital city of Slovenia. It is truly is an outdoor centric nation and as the world takes notice of this small European gem, it is evident that Slovenia’s passion for sports will continue to inspire and to build on a legacy of athletic achievement. I hope this has helped foster some ideas of what to do while visiting the country of Slovenia and its largest city, Ljubljana, while on tour!

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I was lucky enough to join the 2023 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour in Budapest for the beautiful 2 week stretch to Venice. After a few days, some of the riders asked when I was going to cycle. After a few more days, more riders chimed in so…

I decided that I would ride the stage out of Ljubljana, Slovenia. I checked out the figures and it looked doable, although perhaps a bit of a stretch for someone at home who rides his bike to the farmer’s market and the local brewery. The 92.8 km included 1031 m of climbing which didn’t sound too bad at the time.

I woke up early on my cycling day and got myself ready.

In my hotel room in Ljubljana, ready for the ride

Cycling shoes…check…

My borrowed bike…check…

After a hearty breakfast at out hotel, I headed off, trying my best to hear the GPS instructions above the sound of the traffic. Fortunately, I was riding with Odessa, one of our Tour Leader Trainees, so I essentially followed her out of the city. Lots of bike lanes and very respectful drivers. I felt good. A little surprised given my last stage on a bike during one of our tours was on the Bamboo Road in 2015.

Once outside Ljubljana, we stopped to refill our water bottles and one of the many free fountains along the road. If you prefer milk to quench your thirst, you will love Slovenia. They have these roadside machines – Miekomats. Modern vending milk dispensers they usually can be found near a local dairy farm. Made of stainless steel, they are self cleaning and you can bring your own vessel to drink out of or they will provide a PET bottle. Ice-cold and very fresh. The farmers continuously replenish the milk.

The first of 2 projected climbs of the stage began. A long steady 5 km climb up into the hills. We stopped to pee at the summit and to learn about the threat of African Swine Flu to the local domestic pigs and wild boar. I felt great. This was going to be fun.

We enjoyed spinning along the beautiful back roads checking out the numerous beehives (Slovenia is famous for its honey) that dotted the forest and making great time to lunch, scheduled for about the 46 km mark.

We stopped at the bottom of a hill and checked our location. According to RideWith GPS, we were already 3 km into our 11 km climb to the summit of the pass. Nice! I told Odessa to go ahead. Lunch was just 8 km away and there was only one road. No problem.

The road to the top

I pedalled off and then the pain began. The climb was relentless. Every time I struggled through a corner, another slope presented itself. I started taking breaks. Lots of breaks. My initial projected lunch arrival time fell by the wayside. At one particularly low point, I turned a corner and the incline ahead looked so steep, I gave in, hopped off my bike and walked.

Finally, behind everyone else, I pulled into our lunch stop. Exhausted but also a little bit proud of myself despite the brief walk with the bike.

And then…the reward. An absolutely incredible 17 km downhill towards Italy. Immediately after we crossed the pass, everything changed.

For one thing I wasn’t swearing anymore but the views were spectacular and the flora immediately changed. Cacti appeared as did a number of palm trees. And the vineyards! Slovenia had quite a few but in Italy, it is a whole different ballgame!

The downhill finally came to an end (rats) and we eventually pulled into our hotel, the traditional TDA flagging tape marking the end of my return to cycling on the Trans-Europa.

Respect to all the riders on the 2023 Trans-Europa! My ride taught me just how much effort and determination you put in each and every day.

A big shout out to Odessa for hanging back with me and encouraging me to finish the stage.

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Keszthely is a small Hungarian town of about 20,000 souls perched at the end of the country’s largest body of water, Lake Balaton, and is an overnight stop on our Trans-Europa Cycling Tour. Have you ever heard of it? I certainly hadn’t.

Paris might have the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay and the Palace at Versailles but it ain’t got nothing on this town!

Model Railway Museum

My first stop was the incredible model train museum. It brought back many memories as during my childhood in Montreal, my father had transformed the entire basement of our house into a model train layout, much to my mother’s chagrin! I loved it. This layout is one of the largest in the world – the tracks total almost 3 kms in length, there are over 1000 buildings, 20 stations and 80 individual trains operating at once.

Radio & Television Museum

Next up was the Radio and Television Museum. No flatscreens here! I remember trying so hard to get those metal rabbit ears to stay at the perfect angle so that the screen wasn’t full of ‘snow’ during Saturday morning cartoons. TVs and radios have certainly come a long way but there is a certain charm about some of the retro designs on display here.

Doll Museum

If you have ever watched, even through your fingers, the movies Chucky or Annebelle, you may want to consider bringing a few friends with you as you explore the 3 floors of dolls in this museum. One doll always seems so harmless but throw hundreds of them together in glass cases and add in some creaky wooden floors? Creepy!

Snail Shell Parliament Museum

Say you have 4.5 million snail shells hanging around? And not much to do for the next 14 years? To paraphrase Mary Oliver, “What would you do with your one wild and precious life?” Well, one woman spent it using the snail shells to make a 7 m x 2.5 m scale model of the iconic Hungarian Parliament buildings, proving once again that the line between genius and madness is a thin one.

Museum Of Historical Wax Figures

Down a set of rickety stairs, you will find a collection of wax figures. First up is a large array of creepy nuns. Once you run that gauntlet, you emerge into a musty space where Hungary’s historical figures reside in waxen majesty. They run from the leader of the original Hungarian tribes, Arpad, to the country’s first King, Saint Stephen.

Torture Museum

Have you ever wondered about the most painful ways to be tortured? Well, the answers may lie here in this dark museum room. Reading the above methods, my thirst immediately disappeared. Additional tortures included the having people eaten alive by insects (sounds like camping in Canada), making people become rotten while still alive and the always popular, making people swallow a string!

Nostalgia Museum

Some people may be accused of living in the past. In this museum, you can join them. It contains an amazing collection of everyday items from dishes to typewriters to posters to bicycles and pretty much everything in between. Weirdly, the store slogan is, “Whoever enters here, abandon all hope.”

Toy Museum

The Toy Museum is a truly incredible collection. Remember those plastic army figures you used to play with? They have a whole display of them. Toy cars, constructions sets, board games and even more dolls (must have escaped from the Doll Museum). Just about anything you might have played with as a child can be found here.

Erotic Museum

Situated right next door to the Toy Museum is the Erotic Museum (more toys, I guess). You descend down a dark stairwell and emerge into a number of rooms that confirm your sneaking suspicion that, contrary to their fusty reputation, the Victorians had much more fun. Apparently, they were in pretty good shape as well. I was exhausted just thinking about all the positions.

That made nine museums that I had visited. Somehow I still managed to miss the Georgikon Farm Museum, the Balaton Museum, the Coach Museum, the Helikon Palace Museum and the Hunting Museum. Not to mention the Palm House, the Amazon House, the Aristocratic Lifestyle Exhibition, the Helikon Library, the Travelling Aristocrats Adventures on the Road Exhibition, the Bird Park, the Palace Park, the Lion’s Well and the Princess Garden.

Phew!! I need a beer! How about a local brew made from lavender? Delicious.

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Ethan Weil is the Content Creator on the 2023 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour.  After cycling through Poland he decided to take a closer look at the country’s recent history.

Poland is a country in Eastern Europe with a rich history dating from medieval tribes to the modernity of the present day. Its past may have been plagued by wars, occupation and corruption but the people have stood proud in recent years as the country is fast becoming one of the most influential in Europe. However, it is also important to know the history of how Poland got to where it is today.

Complete Destruction

Poland was at the centre of World War Two as Nazi Germany invaded from the west on September 1st, 1939 and 16 days later the Soviet Union attacked from the east. This resulted in the loss of over 5 million of its citizens. The destruction that was left behind by the war is estimated to have cost Poland the equivalent of more than US$1.5 trillion. With such staggering loss of life and a shattered economy, Poland was in desperate need of rebuilding as the war came to an end.

Soldiers stand guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Pitsudski Square in Warsaw

Soviet Influence and the Eastern Bloc

After World War Two ended in 1945, the U.S.S.R. had many soldiers remaining all throughout Eastern and Central Europe. Many believe this military influence in the region attributed to the formation of the Eastern Bloc, more formally known as the Warsaw Pact. This resulted in the creation of a number of satellite states of the Soviet Union – Albania, Bulgaria, Czechoslovakia, East Germany, Hungary, Romania and Poland. The 1947 election marked Poland’s official transition into a communist nation. A constitution was formally introduced in 1952, creating the Polish People’s Republic. Poland was communist-led economy with an extremely slow growth period that lasted all the way until 1989.

With the end of the Soviet Union, Poland began a democratic transition and on October 27th, 1991 they had their first democratic election since the 1920s. This marked the moment Poland moved away from communism and towards a democratic and westernized government. It was a pivotal moment as this change can be a delicate time and corruption can easily develop. In 1993 the last Soviet troops left the country and from then on, Poland’s economy started to grow.

Welcome to NATO and the EU

The democratic transition of Poland in 1989 allowed them the freedom to decide on the direction of their economy and to determine their own security policy without interference. In March of 1991 the Warsaw Pact was dissolved and in July of the same year, it ceased to exist, allowing Poland to join NATO. In the same month, the Polish President at the time, Krzysztof Skubiszewski, emphasized that Poland wished for a secure and safe place in Europe. While joining NATO helped boost Poland’s security, they also were admitted to the European Union on May 1st, 2004 which helped boost their economy.

Polish flags line the street near the Old Town in Warsaw, commemorating the 1944 Warsaw Uprising against the Nazis

The Phases of Growth

Poland has now managed to grow its economy for more than three decades, essentially achieving the longest period of growth in modern European history. Not many countries have ever able to manage that. Poland has found a different growth strategy for each of the three decades which has allowed the economy to grow incredibly fast. The first decade’s growth strategy was all about developing capitalism.

In the second phase during the 2000’s they focused on integrating into the globalized world as part of the EU. They concentrated on utilizing their cheap labor and manufacturing skills which was enough to continue uplifting the Polish economy. Another major benefit of EU membership was the redistribution of money from richer member states to the less developed ones in order to balance the wealth disparity in the Union. Poland used this money to further improve its economy, building roads and creating universities.

The third phase, bringing us to the present day, is the use of education. Poland was able to move its economy away from cheap industrial labor and manufacturing for foreign companies and instead developed into having one of the largest pools of engineering talent in Europe. Whereas Poland used to have a brain drain as higher educated people left the country during the communist era, they are now returning to help develop Warsaw’s growing tech industry. Foreign businesses are investing in the country with Google opening research and development hubs.

With all the changes and positive developments in the economy, Poland has also begun a historic military buildup and has created one of the strongest militaries in Europe. The reasons for Poland doing so stems from its not so recent history of invasion and Soviet influence. All NATO member states are encouraged to contribute 2% of GDP to military spending . Poland already spends 2.42%, one of the highest in NATO. After the Russian invasion of Ukraine, Poland has now decided to increase its spending to 4 or 5% in the coming years, higher than any other NATO member.

Once Poland was considered nothing more than a cold, poor, post-communist nation with a cheap industrial workforce but has now has developed into a thriving economy. The country has evolved economically, politically, and militarily in 30 years, largely by leaving its post-Soviet influence behind. It is still lagging behind some of its Western neighbours in terms of GDP but its steady growth has been impressive and some people have predicted that their economy might surpass Great Britain’s by 2030. The rise of Poland has been truly remarkable and it seems it will continue to become more and more influential within the European Union as time passes.

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Hungary has a complicated history with Russia. Hmmmm…actually, maybe not. It is pretty clear-cut! Our 2023 Trans-Europa Content Creator, Ethan Weil, and I learned more about Hungary under Soviet rule during a bike tour that we took in Budapest entitled ‘From Fading Communism to…’

It turns out the 1956 uprising wasn’t the first time the Russians had crushed the hopes of the Hungarians. In 1848, they also sided with the Hapsburg monarchy in suppressing the hopes of democratic reformers. During WWII, Budapest was spared until 1944 when Hitler, in order to slow down the Red Army, instructed the Germans and Hungarian Nazis to hold out at all costs. After a 100 day siege, the Russians broke through and destroyed much of the city.

Our first stop on the tour was in an area of the city (Joseph Town) where the fighting in the streets during the 1956 uprising was particularly brutal. Bullet holes can still be seen in the walls of some buildings, over 65 years later. Many of the youths who fought the Soviets were kept in prison until they were 18 and then executed.

Next, we visited the Memorial to the victims of the 1956 revolution which stands over top of the Museum of Ethnography. The site was once a military grounds and there was a statue of Stalin that they tore down during the revolt, leaving just his shoes. Although the Hungarians lost the revolution and many were executed and imprisoned, in the long term the result was a softer version of communism (Kadarism or ‘Goulash Communism’) with more private property and an increased ability to travel.

Museum of Ethnography

1956 Memorial

Our final stop was at the National Cemetery. It is important to note that the Hungarians have removed almost all symbols of Soviet rule. In fact, it is illegal to display the Red Star anywhere in the city. It can only be seen at the Soviet War Memorial near the American Embassy and at the Soviet war graves in the National Cemetery. Even here the government will not maintain them and their upkeep is the responsibility of an anonymous Russian oligarch. In the past, President Putin has visited the site but otherwise, the graves are left alone.

National Cemetery

Not far away was an area dedicated to the men and women who died fighting the Soviets in 1956. We were puzzled by the Hungarian flags flying with holes in the middle but our guide explained that this was the symbol of the revolution. The Hungarians had cut out the hammer and sickle and red star that the communists had placed in the centre of the national flag.

Fittingly, Hungary played a major role in the end of the Soviet empire. As a result of its softer approach to communism, in the 1970’s and 1980’s Germans from the East and the West, who couldn’t cross the German border, were both able to visit Hungary and so it became a place of family reunions. While Hungarians had been allowed to cross their border into the West, in the 1980’s the Hungarian authorities began to allow East Germans to use this exit as well. Once that became widely known, a tidal wave of East Germans headed to Hungary to escape to the West. And once the East Germans saw that this was possible they began to wonder what else was possible…like, say, tearing down the Berlin Wall!

While the city has successfully rid itself of most Soviet era symbols, their influence still remains in places. Take for example, the Marriott in Budapest. This hideous structure certainly wins the prize for ugliest hotel on the planet – Soviet Cold War bunker chic. Worse yet, it is situated right on the beautiful Danube River right across from the beautiful Royal. Palace.

As we learned from our historical bike tour, a city like Budapest has a complex and fascinating history and it is always worthwhile to learn more about the cities and countries on the route of the Trans-Europa Cycling Tour. You never know what you will discover!

Thanks to Akos, the owner of Budapest Bike Breeze, who taught us about Budapest’s Soviet past and answered all our questions with honesty and incredible patience

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“Awareness of ignorance is the beginning of wisdom” – Socrates

Ethan, ready to roll

I may have studied history in University but when I was suddenly sent to Hungary in order to help out on the 2023 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour, I realized just how little I knew about the country and its capital city, Budapest. I knew that I often forgot to add an A to the spelling, turning a proud nation into a gnawing need for chicken wings. I remembered something about the Austrian-Hungarian Empire but really, Austria and Hungary had an empire? Oh, and goulash soup…

In order to rectify this appalling lack of knowledge, I roped our Trans-Europa Content Creator, Ethan Weil, into taking a couple bike tours of Budapest with me. Our mission? To discover some history about this country and this city.

Let me just note that while the new mayor is a big supporter of more bike infrastructure, currently it is much like Toronto’s. Add a lick o’paint here, a lick o’ paint there, some sharrows and hope for the best…In any case, here’s what we found out.

The city itself is currently being spruced up, largely due to funds from the EU, but improvements have been in the works for a while. A good example is the House of Music in City Park. The Park itself was neglected for many decades but has been transformed over the last few years with projects like this one.

Before…and after

St.Stephen’s Basilica, in the city centre, can seat 8,000 people. In 1838 a historic flood swamped the Pest side of the city, submerging almost the entire area. However, there was a small hill where some inhabitants managed to survive by climbing up it as the waters steadily rose. As a result, it was decided that a cathedral should be built in that location as a gesture of thanks to God for saving those people.

St.Stephen’s Basilica

Budapest is a city of statues. No matter where you go, you will likely find a metal or stone figure lurking nearby. There is even one of the American TV detective Colombo (Peter Falk)!

One of the city’s many statues

After WWI, Hungary lost a lot of its territory (like two thirds) to Romania (Transylvania – maybe Dracula was Hungarian?), Serbia, Croatia, Ukraine and Slovakia. One of the reasons, they supported the Nazis in WWII was the hope they would recover these areas…bad move. Still, even today on the Hungarian Parliament buildings, there are 2 flags, one of Hungary and one of the Hungarian diaspora living in Romanian Transylvania. In Europe, it seems there is so much history lurking beneath the surface, just waiting to boil over.

Hungary was much bigger before WWI

Hungary is famous for its thermal baths. The whole country lies atop these waters and past Turkish influence simply encouraged their development. The waters can be up to 70C (yikes) and Hungarians with health issues are given free access to them.

Thermal baths in Budapest

The country founded in 896 by seven leaders who may, or may not, have been Huns (Hun-gary, get it?)! They took a blood oath to protect their people and  you can enjoy their unsmiling faces at the Millennial Monument (serious looking dudes) along with a collection of the past kings of the country.

Smile!

Budapest’s opera house was constructed during the time of the Austrian-Hungarian empire. As the junior partner to the Austrian capital, Vienna, the city was finally given permission to build one, but on the condition that it was not bigger than Vienna’s. Size, I guess, did matter to the Austrians.

The smaller Opera House

Thanks to Boris Johnson and Brexit, Budapest can now claim the oldest subway in the European Union. I would never have guessed! And it is beautiful.

Budapest’s subway

Unexpectedly, we ran across a statue of Ronald Regan and George Bush Sr.. While maybe not remembered as fondly in their own country or  some others around the world, in Eastern Europe they are appreciated for having ended the Cold War and pulled back the Iron Curtain. Ironically, they are located near the last Soviet War Memorial in Budapest which itself is located across from the US Embassy!

Soviet War Memorial

We also stopped at a memorial to the victims of the Nazis in WWII that is quite controversial. It was dedicated to Hungarian victims of the Nazis, overlooking that Hungary was actually allied with the Nazis until it became apparent they were going to lose the war. The real victims, of course, were the Hungarian Jews whose descendents are rightfully appalled at this revision of history. In response, they began to leave notes and photos of those who were the actual victims of Nazi Germany and their Hungarian allies. The current government has tried to remove the displays but they are always replaced and are currently there to see. Very touching and a reminder of the power of protest and memory.

World War II Memorial

So now I know a little bit more about Budapest and Hungary. And hopefully you do too!

Taking a bicycle tour of any city is the best way to get a better understanding of its heart and soul. Many thanks to Bernadette and Akos of Budapest Bike Breeze for teaching us about their beautiful city.

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Ethan Weil is the Content Creator on the 2023 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour. In this piece, he examines bike culture in the Baltic States.

Tucked away in the north-eastern corner of Europe along the coast of the Baltic Sea are three countries, Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, also known as the Baltic states. It’s a northern landscape with vast forests, long sandy beaches, and a countryside that emits a sense of tranquility as you pedal through it. There is a richness in the cultures and history that each of the three states hold, both through similarities with one another as well as unique differences. When planning a biking adventure, the Baltic isn’t likely a place you hear much about in North America, much less having known someone that has cycled there, but what brings these Baltic states together is their bike culture and the ability to develop widespread bike infrastructure.

Estonia, the northernmost of the Baltic states, is developing and updating its cycling infrastructure, especially around the capital city, Tallinn. A city of advanced tech mixed with historical castles and cathedrals, Tallinn originally had very little support for cycling. Now they have created separated bike lanes, implemented bike sharing systems and have designated bike parking all around the city. It’s become quite the bike-friendly city, so much so that the ‘Visit Tallinn’ website has a bunch of information on cycling. Whether it’s guides on how to get around the city or blogs on bike-packing, they now take cycling seriously as both a means of transportation and as a recreational activity.

Not only that, their development for tech and entrepreneurship in the business/investment industry has extended into opportunities for bike sharing systems such as ‘Bikeep’ which especially boomed during the pandemic. This bike friendliness extends throughout the country as smooth and convenient bike trails are a common site. They lead both inland and along the coastal waters of the Baltic which happens to be a part of the European Coastal Path (also known as the E9). Over the years Estonia has built an impressive network of cycling trails and paths for everyone to enjoy!

Latvia, located between Estonia and Lithuania, has a unique bike culture as cycling has been present throughout much of its history, including the Soviet era. It has been home to manufacturers that have produced all kinds of bicycles and hundreds of brands throughout their years of operation. Like Estonia, the land is flat and makes for easy riding along the many bike paths. Locals can be seen throughout the country, cycling both for leisure and as a means of transportation, especially in the smaller towns.

Along our tour route, we had the chance to check out the Saulkrasti Bicycle Museum, which is family owned and goes in depth about Latvia’s history with bicycles. I highly recommend checking it out whenever you’re in the area! The EuroVelo 9 cycling route continues down Latvia’s coastline and many cyclists and bike-packers can be seen along this road. It takes the riders into Riga, Latvia’s capital. This beautiful city is built over the Daugava River where there are bike trails along the water that allow riders to enjoy the views. Within the city itself bike culture is strongly present, with many bike shops to be found.

The Daugava River, Riga

Lithuania, especially its capital Vilnius, has embraced biking by making it easy to get around the city with numerous rental bike options. It’s a beautiful city and in addition to the infrastructure they have put in place around the new city, they have also updated their old town. Bike lanes have been painted over the cobblestones to help separate cyclists from pedestrians and vehicles. Outside the capital, there are some separated bike paths as well as simple shoulders on which to ride. What really sets Lithuania apart from Estonia and Latvia for cyclists are the rolling hills in the countryside. The topography starts to have more definition beyond just a flat surface, so slight uphills and downhills are to be expected.

In the Baltic States you will find many locals cycling with their families for recreation in small towns or using them as transportation to get to work. What is most striking is the amount of bike-packers and bike tourers one sees throughout the Baltic States. Cyclists loaded with gear can be seen more regularly than one would have expected, as the area turns out to be a very popular bike destination.  We met one set of Greek cyclists on the Estonian-Latvian border who were geared up for bike touring and mentioned that they started in Tallinn and were headed back down to Greece while using part of the E9 Coastal Path. Other cycle tourers we encountered were actually from Estonia or Latvia and were returning home from their long adventures.

Simply put, the Baltic States are a beautiful and tranquil place to ride a bike. Whether you are just riding a short distance or continuing far across the Baltic region, there is always something to see and appreciate.

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The 2021 Trans-Europa was the very first tour we had been able to run since the pandemic forced us to cancel the Tour d’Afrique way back in March of 2020! Hopes were high and the riders were excited to get back on their bikes and explore the world but changing travel restrictions and health requirements added a degree of uncertainty into the mix. In the end, the participants were able to successfully pedal from Ljubljana to Gibraltar. Here is what they had to say about their European adventure.

“The TDA team completely exceeded my expectations. The route was stunning, challenging, and fun! I can’t wait for my next tour.” – Stacey Bailey (USA)

“A bunch of strangers came together and formed a really great group of nice folks to ride and share meals with. The varied terrain took us from mountains to seaside and back while the climbs most always topped out to give great scenic views. Glad I did it.” – Greg Forst (USA)

“A great route with a great group of people and a great team.” – Simon Boyd (UK)

“The Trans Europe tour was everything I expected and more. I expected quaint towns, interesting cities and a safe riding route and the Trans Europe was all of that. Every member of the TdA staff treated each of us with kindness, consideration and attention to whatever it was that we needed. I have done other tours with other companies and nothing in my experience compares with the quality of the tour they provided.” – Robert Peltzer (Canada)

“It was a joyful experience – riding through beautiful Spanish cities, spinning along the Costa Brava, laughing in the driving rain through the mountains. I felt like a kid again – my daily life responsibilities seemed so far away for those 40 days.” – Jeanne Turner (USA)

“It was so great to be on the bike again, and experiencing a TDA road trip: great scenery, great food, and the best support staff. There is nothing that beats getting on the bike every day and knowing everything is taken care of and all you have to do is enjoy the ride!” – Eve Holland (USA)

“Excellent experience. Support staff was great. Lunches delicious.” – Lee Taylor (USA)

“Overall it has everything in it. Excellent routes for cycling with low vehicle traffic except in the cities. Lots of interesting and challenging sections, great vistas, riding through villages and small towns, lots of quiet roads, broken pavement, riding down narrow twisty and windy roads.” – Justin Chia (Canada)

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Tim Millikin worked on the 2021 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour and sends this final report.

It was 8am and the sun was rising over the top of the buildings opposite our hotel, warming us with a bright morning glow. It was the final day of our tour. Stage 31 out of 31 and the last 102 km out of 3035 km. Everyone beamed with pride and excitement as we wore our Trans-Europa branded jerseys out of the hotel and across to the bullring in Ronda for the final snapshot. With the photo taken, everyone was keen to head out onto the last stretch of road of the 2021 Trans-Europa tour. The final day was from Ronda to Gibraltar and we would mark our final ride with a final border crossing – onto the rock and into British territory. The road started like any other in Southern Spain, which was uphill! We slowly made our way up the 800m meter climb and over the first pass of the day.

The road weaved in between towering outcrops of grey and brown rock, rewarding us with more amazing views. It was the final bite in the tail from Spain, but our legs were now strong and our minds resilient to the challenge as we climbed with a gusto we had not seen before. We didn’t have to save any energy for tomorrow, so we gave it our all! From the top of the pass you could look out and see the tops of the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. To see Africa from our lofty height made me reflect back to that first day in Slovenia and to finally realize how far we had come. Half way across Europe! A smile beamed from ear to ear and I was reminded how far you can actually travel by bicycle and how lucky I was to be on this TDA Tour.

Suddenly, it was all downhill, literally. A 30 km descent began and we tore down the mountain roads towards Gibraltar. The colours quickly went from grey to green as we headed back to sea level. The temperature increased as did our heart rates after our fun downhill ride. The last stage was a 30km flat section which saw me ride with Eero and Yvonne. They were the last riders to finish the day and we all rode together as a little team, slowly making our way out of Spain and into Britain. We cycled across the runaway at the Gibraltar airport after having our passports checked. There is a traffic light system there letting the road know if there is a plane coming before you cross! Fortunately for us, the lights were green and we crossed into the busy and congested city.

We rode the final 3 km towards the Rock Hotel, which was uphill and was the final climb of the day and the trip! As we turned the last corner to the hotel, we were greeted with bells, whistles, cheers and claps from the other riders. Everyone was waiting for us to arrive, to greet us and pass out the congratulations. It was a great moment. This was a shared journey and it didn’t end until the last riders were in. Champagne popped and stories were told before everyone went back to their rooms to prepare for the final dinner.

The celebration dinner was at a beautiful Gibraltarian restaurant called Rendezvous Chargrill and we passed the evening with good wine and even better food. Awards were given out, speeches were made and we all rejoiced in the knowledge that we had made it. 3035 km over 31 days, 24 riders and 4 staff members, across five countries. The memories made here will last a lifetime – the tough days, the wet days, the days chilling on the beach! It was the first tour that pandemic restrictions had allowed and I can say it was a roaring success. We started with a degree of uncertainty but we finished safely and with the knowledge that tours and travel can once again run. For me, this was the biggest win. Memories of cancelling the 2020 Tour d’Afrique half way through the route faded into the background and were replaced with the new experiences gained on the Trans-Europa.

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Tim Millikin is working on the 2021 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour and sends this report from Granada.

After a wonderful rest day in Valencia, the riders on the Trans-Europa turned their bicycles to the west. We said our goodbyes to the sea, to the Valencian architecture and to the easy road. Goodbye to the hustle and bustle of the Costa Blanca and the Costa Dorado. We had been cycling along the Mediterranean coast for the past 10 days, from the Cote D’Azur in France and on into Northern Spain. While it had been fun to visit it was time to head inland and see what else Spain had to offer.

We left Valencia at sun up, with local traffic buzzing past us. Our destination for the day was Ontinyent and a stylish Moorish hotel in the heart of the city. We quickly left the city behind and made our first foray into rural Spain. Endless vines of grapes, both purple and translucent green in colour, dotted the highway as we pedalled towards the hotel. One hundred kilometres of gentle riding meant that we reached the hotel with smiles on our faces, happy to have been riding on the quieter roads.

As we ventured west, the coast gave way to olive orchards and vineyards. Blue and white hues gave way to browns and greens while the busy traffic vanished and made way for quiet secondary roads with pristine tarmac and the occasional gravel sections! Population centres were quickly replaced by small, sleepy, stone villages and the landscape opened up before our ever widening eyes.

This was the start of a six day ride between Valencia and Granada, a stretch of wild Spain where we cycled in the shadow of two mountain ranges, the Sierra Castril and the Sierra Nevada. Riding along the vast mountain ranges , we were guided westwards, spinning between towering peaks. In three days we had reached Caravaca De La Cruz, a pilgrim town famous as the fifth Holy City of Catholic Christianity. Old yellow walls, pockmarked with a secret history, towered over us, creating narrow, shady walkways as we wound our way to the hotel. We stayed at the excellent Circulo Articulo hotel directly outside one of the old churches where the hospitality of the owners, Alex and Mercedes, echoed the beautiful style of this peaceful and charming town.

Over dinner, the talk was of climbs, descents, wide open landscapes and how the riders would best handle their energy over this long six day stretch. The reason for the slight concern was the last day into Granada which would be a 134 km stage with 1860 metres of elevation gain, possibly the toughest stage of the entire tour. Energy conservation was their aim, with each rider putting forward different strategies on what would suit them best. Leaving Caravaca De La Cruz, we had a climbing day with 1300 metres of elevation gain factored in over 80km. This short, but relatively slow stage, meant our riders could take some time off their bikes to enjoy the scenery.  I was riding ahead that day and loudly shouted my admiration for the views ahead as the road wound around, giving me a new vision on every turn! It was excellent! All the talk of strategy and conservation was replaced with smiles, excitement and a realization of just how lucky we were being able to see the sights around us.

That day we reached Velez Blanco, a town nestled under the protection of a 16th century castle. Our hotel, Casa De Los Arcos, had arranged an eight course degustation dinner, perfect to re-energize and refuel everyone. It was magnificent to sit on the terrace as the sun went down, drinking wine and eating amazing food. It was a real treat for our riders with some saying it was the best meal of the tour. The whole evening was put on by just two people, a chef and a waiter and before everyone went to their rooms the two of them were treated to a standing ovation for all their hard work and excellent food.

The final day into Granada, we left just after sunrise in order to compensate for the long day of riding. Some rain the previous evening had dampened the mood and the riders were keen to get going after a brief breakfast. The road was tough. It began with a challenging 12 km climb followed by a mix of gravel and pot-holed farm roads. It was a stunning ride as we pedalled past vast open landscapes that looked similar to Mars or even Utah! After lunch, the road surface greatly improved as we snaked around the Sierra Nevada Range. We climbed up to 1290 metres and then took a deep breath, as the views from the top of the pass meant we could see for kilometres all around with villages perched on steep mountain slopes. Moments like this make for unforgettable memories and these six days of rural Spanish cycling will stay with me forever. Our final task to get to Granada was to cycle 35 km, all downhill.  The road whipped us away and we rode like pros, leaning into the smooth bends of the fun, fast descent.

We had come so far, both in terms of distance and but also in our mindset! We had been challenged and had risen to it. We had taken the tougher route and had been rewarded with beautiful views, lasting memories and a companionship which will last forever. Southern Spain had been exactly what we wanted and more.

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When I was asked to help out on our Trans-Europa Cycling tour my initial feeling was, yes of course, I love Europe! Like many people, I had not been travelling outside my home country in almost two years. I knew there would be some extra steps but I was up for the challenge. Today, as a fully vaccinated Canadian, I am fortunate in being able to travel to many places and for that, I am very grateful.

The first thing I did was print my vaccine certificate which was an email with a PDF stating I had been vaccinated twice with an official  Government of Ontario header on the form. I made sure to have a digital copy as well as a paper copy that I could keep with my passport. I did not want to have be using my phone constantly. Having the paper copy with my passport made things quick and easy.

It’s important to know that not every European country has the same requirements for entry. I flew into Slovenia where they only required the vaccine certificate (for two valid doses, at least 14 days prior to travel). When I arrived in Ljubljana after two flights and no sleep, the border control officer was not happy with my paper certificate. He asked me what it was, shook his head and starred at it for what felt like 10 minutes. It was made it clear to me that my Ontario certificate, which he had maybe never seen before, was not the best and most clear form of proving my vaccine status. After some frustration and heavy sighs, he let me through. When I arrived at the hotel and spoke to other riders, one from Canada and one from the USA, they both said there were no issues with their certificates. The American one was on a proper vaccine form about the size of a cue card and the Canadian rider had shrunk down the form, printed and laminated it. So naturally, it looked much more official than mine.

Ljubljana

Once I had arrived, all was green, slightly rainy, but beautiful. When I researched Slovenia I learned that it’s said to be the garden of Europe. I must agree. I was surrounded by mountains and it had many options for hiking, mountain biking or wandering around under the trees below a castle. I kept my vaccine certificate with me everywhere I went, which was good as you needed to show it upon entry to most stores and all restaurants.

After a few days in Ljubljana, our next stop on the tour would be Italy, on our way to Venice. We learned a few weeks earlier that we now had to all get COVID tests before entry.  This was arranged for us all at the hotel, the required papers were printed and on we went. After a lovely afternoon of riding, we crossed the Italian border, and rode right through. No hassle, no stopping. I’m not sure I even saw a border guard. I was now in Italy and very excited, as it was my first time there. I could already feel it would be a special place.

Venice

After a few days on the road, we arrived in beautiful Lido, Venice. Lido being only about a 15 minute ferry from the mainland, offers a beautiful beach, restaurants and the best gelato I’ve ever had. On our first rest day, I took a ferry to Venice to see San Marco Square and wander around. It was the first time in a very long time that I was speechless.

There were some other tourists around but I can imagine it was nothing compared to the days before COVID. It felt more relaxed in Italy, as I was only asked to show my vaccine papers once or twice in the time I was there.

It was now time to get ready for travel back to Canada. The biggest lesson I had learned on this trip, was the importance of booking PCR tests early. In Toronto, Canada where I live, it’s a simple process and there are many places to go. In Lido, there was only one clinic and you needed to make an appointment a day or two ahead of time. To anyone travelling in the near future, if PCR (deep nose drill test that takes 24-48 hours for results) testing is required for your return, I would suggest that you make the appointment to have the test 48-72 hours prior to your flight. It will be one less thing to worry about. I spoke to a few people in the airport who, like me, got their results only a few hours before they had to fly.

Travelling during these times can still be easy. Just be sure to do your research on what you need to enter the places you re travelling to, and then check again days before you go. As with any trip, expect a few hiccups and last minute changes. It’s all part of the journey!

Tim Millikin is working on the 2021 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour and sends this report from Nice.

We crossed into Italy with jubilant smiles as the tour cycled over its first international border. The pre-crossing nerves subsided as we saw the border post was unmanned and we were able to put away our passports, Covid tests, locator forms and QR codes. We were cycling again, touring to new countries, witnessing the mix of language, food and culture as we exited Slovenia and crossed into Italy.

The talk of Italy was food, coffee and gelato. And it was not long until we found our first Italian hotel in the border town of Gorizia. After checking in, showering and drinking a quick Moretti, we all decamped and walked to the restaurant La Tarantella, where we were treated to a beautiful three course meal, the highlight being the homemade tiramisu. The chef used his traditional family recipe, which was passed to him from his grandma just three years before our arrival. The sponge was fresh, the middle boozy and the flavour and memory of the evening lasted us well into the night. Italy was proudly showing us why it has earned its reputation for delicious food. We all looked forward to cycling and eating our way across this new country.

We left Gorizia after a light Italian breakfast of croissant and macchiato and began our crossing of Northern Italy. The first two days saw us ride across the flat, agricultural heart of the country. We passed open farms and waved at the local farmers going about their daily business. It was a momentary glance at a life which would continue whether we passed by or not. We cycled alongside the Po River on a service road which felt more like a bike lane than a road due to the lack of traffic we encountered. We stayed in San Stino De Livenza, a town which had more church bells than people, before heading towards Venice.

There are many ways into Venice, but for our riders, we had decided to treat them to a water taxi tour around the historic city before heading towards our hotel on Venice Lido. We passed the Grand Canal, St Mark’s Square and Basilica and waved at locals and tourists alike as we spent 90 minutes on route to our hotel. There, we were reunited with our bikes and checked into the Venetian style, Hotel Antonio Augustus, before our riders were able embrace their first rest day of the tour. A day off to explore, sightsee, and dine in the Italian manner. We were also lucky that our hotel was a directly opposite a stunning little gelato outlet. A single window and range of rich ice creams and sorbet meant our riders were never far from the most perfect Italian treat. Venice Lido is a short boat ride from the mainland and is where the locals live. It is quieter and has the added bonus of public and private beaches for our riders to relax on after their day out in the hustle and bustle of Venice.

Leaving Venice required another couple of boat rides, two separate ferries that would take our riders to Chioggia. A short riding day from Chioggia meant that everyone was itching to leave the following morning, ready to head westwards across Italy toward the mountains. We passed the walled city of Ferrera, where we stayed in a beautiful four star Novatel hotel directly outside the Este castle. A fortified moat surrounded the castle, once owned by the powerful Este family in the 1400’s. We spun past the busy city of Parma and stopped to taste its famous ham (Prosciutto di Parma) before the route changed course. Instead of continuing west, we were to venture south, heading towards the mountain range of the Apennines. We said goodbye to the farmland and rivers of the province of Parma and looked up at climbs and down at the elevation gradients on our Garmins!

This would be the first tough climbs for our riders and there was some nervousness in the group. Some declared they would take the bus from lunch, others like Yvonne said “I am Dutch; I am not used to big climbs!” Each rider decided that they would begin the day and see how they felt but, like some of their moods, the weather decided to change too.

The sunshine of the flat farmland had been replaced by thunder and lightning, bringing an erratic energy to the group in a way that only a looming storm can. Heavy rain moved in and everyone had to don waterproof and protective clothing for the first time on the trip. As the riders began to climb, the weather matched them with bolts of bright lightning crescendoing from the sky above.

Everybody was soaked. Each rider battled on towards the lunch van and the chance for some dry space under the canopy. Only one rider decided to take the van to the hotel with 20 others bravely going back out into the thunderstorm for more climbing. Navigation became hard with phones not working, paper notes and maps spoilt, and soggy flagging tape not being clear in the wet mist. The riders worked together to make it to the town of Bobbio, riding in teams where only one person had a working device. One rider, Peter from Seattle, even went 10km in the wrong direction, not having heard the shouts from those closest to him. Eventually he had to ask locals in the nearest village for the route back to Bobbio. It was a day for true adventures and everyone arrived at the hotel in Bobbio with stories to share and memories made. The battle over the route, over the weather, over their own willingness to continue, was not easy, but as British adventurer Alastair Humphreys puts it “It doesn’t have to be fun, to be fun!”

To celebrate everyone’s arrival, our hotel for the night featured an award winning, Michelin approved restaurant. The wine corks popped and everyone was able to celebrate their day with delicious, traditional Italian food. The warmth of the local family run restaurant soon soothed our wet memories and each rider had a story to share having overcome the worst and embraced a day of true adventure.

Not every day is easy, but it truly was all downhill from here. The storm passed, the sun came out and our riders were able to descend towards Genoa and the Mediterranean Sea. Greeted by the warmth again and spectacular views of the water, our Italian journey was complete. We had cycled 790km over nine cycling days across the country, and would soon enter the third country of our journey towards Gibraltar, France. We enjoyed sunshine and sea views, cycled through tunnels and enjoyed our last good coffee and ice cream in Italy. The road kept winding west and would soon enter France and the Cote d’Azur.

Italy had been an example of the adventure and experience that makes cycling a TDA tour so special. The change of terrain, weather and altitude meant that each day was different. The staff were on hand at all times as support but the riders had to have the mind-set to ride positively and they did marvellously. Touring in Italy was more than just delicious food, it was friendship and new experiences shared and as we approached France ,we all hoped for more of the same.

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Tim Millikin is working on the 2021 Trans-Europa Cycling Tour and sends this report from Venice.

I was there in Africa, sitting in the shade of a school building in a dusty town in southern Tanzania, as a feeling of nervous uncertainty rushed through my body. Riders and crew all gathered together as Tallis, the tour leader, announced that due to an unknown virus that was spreading across the world, we were unable to enter Zambia and so the tour would return to Arusha and end. The feeling of immense disappointment was matched only by the understanding that something serious was going on. As governments around the world told their citizens to return home, we solemnly boxed up the rider’s bikes, packed away our tools, said our goodbyes and left our hearts in Africa as the world went on a two year hiatus.

During this break, schedules were constantly pushed backwards, dates were changed, governments issued changing and conflicting travel advice and TDA adapted and reworked their plans so as to safely follow the rules and ensure they would be in a position to re-launch again as soon it was able. Riders had to adapt to these changes as well and much credit must go to them for showing a large degree of flexibility and resilience as they continually modified their own plans.

Passing vineyards in Italy

It has been a hard two years as riders and staff alike played a waiting game for the restrictions to end, for the world to open up, and to be able to ride our bikes across a continent again. In September, as the mist of Covid-19 started to disappear and we could see the TDA Trans-Europa on the horizon, everything was beginning to feel more positive.

I asked the riders how they felt about being back on the road and Eve from Tucson said, “Beyond excited…we were literally pinching ourselves and saying is this true that were really here and its happening.” Simon from Ireland added, “Great to be back out, I’ve spent so much time in one place! To be able to go from place, to place, to place, feels great.”

We started out on a misty Ljubljana morning as 18 riders from around the world took their place for the obligatory start line photo. Then followed the sound of 18 pairs of clipless pedals popping in as the intrepid team turned and rode forward – 3035 kilometres to go until Gibraltar! The day started with a 50 km ride and a tough climb which saw some steep 15% gradients but everyone was smiling as they had lunch at the top of the climb. They were all happy to be back, happy to have reached the top and happy knowing it was all downhill from here!

Stacy Bailey told me “This is my first long tour, and it’s been really nice. The first day really exceeded my expectations with a steep mountain climb and a beautiful gorgeous descent that was really relaxing. The first day was lovely.”

The first ride ended as we crossed from Slovenia into Italy, from the Julian Alps into Gorizia and the home of good coffee and even better gelato! Everyone was smiling and the jubilant atmosphere matched the heights of the pass we had just crossed. It felt so great to be back on the road, to be riding in a new and exciting country, to pass borders without fear. TDA is back and perhaps even better than before as we now all know what a life with restrictions felt like, so now we would all make the most of each and every opportunity going forward.