UPDATED

October 26, 2016

BY Brian Hoeniger

16 comments

UPDATED

October 26, 2016

BY Brian Hoeniger

16 comments

Cycling Patagonia: Everything You Need to Know

Mystical Patagonia has stirred the imaginations of travellers for centuries. Its sparsely populated, wild, and beautiful lands extend down the triangle at the southern end of South America from approximately latitude 40°S to Tierra del Fuego, encompassing the Aísen, Magallanes, and part of Los Lagos regions in Chile, together with the Argentinian provinces south of the Rio Negro.

>>Check out our supported cycling tour of Patagonia

The narrow Chilean side and the cross-border frontier areas are dominated by formations carved by the last ice age, including jagged Andean peaks, U-shaped valleys, glacial lakes, ice fields, and crystal clear rivers. In stark contrast the rest of Patagonian Argentina is a vast wind swept emptiness of semi arid scrub plateau.

turquoise river and purple lupines

Turquoise River and Purple Lupines

In recent years, Patagonia has become a mecca for long distance cycle tourists. Typically they follow 2 renowned and incredibly scenic routes, Chile’s Carretera Austral and Argentina’s Ruta 40. Unless you are a glutton for brutal winds, the best itinerary may be a combination of both, crossing over the Andes between Esquel, Argentina and the white water rafting haven of Futaleufu, Chile, or further south after you tire of being buffeted by the punishing westerlies.

Carretera Austral

Carretera Austral mapMany choose to ride the entire 1247 km length of the rugged Carretera Austral, starting in the port city of Puerto Montt, where one can indulge in seafood and pisco sours, and stock up on spare parts and outdoor adventure clothing before hitting the road. The legendary Carretera is about 60% gravel with some rough, corrugated stretches, and 40% paved, with more pavement slowly being added every year. En route you will take 5 ferries and spin through temperate rain forest and national reserves, across icy cold rivers and mountain passes, and past isolated farms, smoking volcanoes and snowy peaks. While there are a few long climbs and descents between watersheds, the physical challenges are not extreme and a small price to pay for pedalling past one magnificent and isolated scene after another.

After restoring your energy and replenishing supplies at the midway point in the small city of Coyhaique, the road traverses la Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo before hugging the shoreline of Lago General Carrera and the banks of swirling Rio Baker. The settlement of Cochrane provides the last well equipped general store before the gravel stretch to the tiny frontier and glacial lakeside town of Villa O’Higgins where the Carretera officially ends.

credit: Carretera Austral map by B1mbo under CC-BY-SA-2.5

Lago General Carrera vista

Lago General Carrera

The Gauntlet: Villa O’Higgins to El Chaltén Border Crossing

The Gauntlet mapFrom there the cross border trek through no man’s land – involving two ferries, a 22 km slog thru muddy woods, and a final 37 km of off-road to the Argentinian backpacker haven of El Chaltén is one of the most fabled in the world of South American cycle touring. Technically it can be done in one long day, but the ferries are weather dependent so bring plenty of food, warm clothing and a tent, in case of a storm or nasty winds.

The alternative route from Chile to El Chaltén, for support vehicles and less intrepid cyclists, is to turn east just before Cochrane and climb up the stunning Valle de Chacabuco past flocks of guanaco to the Paso Roballos border post, joining up with Ruta 40 at the god forsaken outpost of Baja Caracoles. From there however it’s a 500 km battle against the winds to El Chaltén.

Cycling Argentina’s Ruta 40

Logo-Ruta-40-232x300The alpine town of San Carlos de Bariloche, on the shores of immense Nahuel Huapi lake, is a base for trekking, kayaking and mountain biking, and a natural starting point for the ride south along Argentina’s Ruta Nacional 40, the long and largely paved highway that runs the length of the country. Bariloche also offers popular side trips including the renowned Seven Lakes route and the trans-Andes ferries and cycling ride into Chile.

South of Bariloche, iconic Ruta 40 skirts Lagos Gutierrez and Mascardi, and offers beautiful views of Cerro Catedral Sur. After passing the town of El Bolsón, cyclists can choose between two routes to Esquel, Most opt for the more scenic and secondary Ruta Provincial 71 via Cholila, meaning “beautiful valley” in Mapuche, where the bandits Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid built a ranch and hide out. In Esquel, you can trade your bike for a ride on the Old Patagonian Express, which still has weekly departures but only runs 20 km to Nahuel Pan.

The Notorious Patagonian Winds

Provided you opt to stay in Argentina rather than cross into Chile, south of Esquel the pampas begin and the infamous winds truly take hold, testing your will and skill. This is Patagonia’s most empty and desolate stretch where the distances between backwater town are longer, supplies and services are more expensive, and there is little to see along the roadside beyond merino sheep and the occasional guanaco. Just north of Perito Moreno, the junction with Ruta 43 offers one more chance to detour into Chile via Lago Buenos Aires before the desolate run to Baja Caracoles and beyond. For those continuing on Ruta 40 a major highlight is the UNESCO-listed Cueva de las Manos (Cave of Hands), reached by gravel side road, where archaeologists found 9,000-year-old stencilled handprints and galloping guanacos painted by ancient peoples.

guanacos

Guanacos alongside Ruta 40 in Santa Cruz province

All told it’s over 1,100 km from Esquel to El Chaltén along Ruta 40, including the final 80 km up the shores of Lago Viedma into what will likely be a brutal headwind. But if you are lucky skies will be clear and the views of Mount Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and the Glaciar Viedma spectacular, and when you finally arrive in El Chaltén, you can indulge in life’s comforts, including its many bars and restaurants while revelling in the supernatural scenery.

Southern Patagonia

Los Glaciares national park extends across the huge Southern Patagonian ice field, from the towering Fitz Roy Massif to Lago Argentino, created by the Perito Moreno glacier. Leaving El Chaltén, its 80 km of brisk tailwinds followed by 120 km of head and crosswinds to El Calafate, the upmarket tourist center on the shores of the turquoise-coloured Lago.

lago_argentino & perito moreno glacier

Perito Moreno glacier & Lago Argentino, photo credit: Ladislav Kamarád

From there another 2-3 days of wind blown peddling, some of it on dirt, will take you back into Chile at Cerro Castillo, bound for another of Patagonia’s star attractions, Torres del Paine. This world renowned park features trekking, horseback, and mountaineering circuits, great campsites, superlative hotels, and the chance to see guanaco and condor against jaw dropping landscapes.

15849801987_4c4f853c46_b Timothy Dhalleine

Cycling at Torres del Paine, photo credit: Timothy Dhalleine / Twitter @tdhalleine 

The final stretch takes one first to Puerto Natales, a formerly modest fishing port on Seno Ùltima Esperanza that has become a tourist mecca as the gateway to Torres del Paine and the southern terminus of the ferry trip from Puerto Montt through the Chilean fjords. Artesanal beers, delicious restaurant fare, cozy lodgings, and kickback views along the waterfront are among its many attractions.

king crab and avocado sandwich

King crab and avocado sandwich for lunch in Puerto Natales

Then it’s on to Punta Arenas, an important port before the opening of the Panama Canal, as reflected in its stately mansions and location astride the Magellan Strait. Today it’s a seafood paradise and the gateway for Antarctica expeditions. For some, Punta Arenas will mark the end of their Patagonian adventure, but for others the huge Island of Tierra del Fuego, beckoning across the strait, is the ultimate goal. The ferry crossing to Porvenir takes 3-4 hours followed by a final 475 km ride across this windswept archipelago to Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city, perched on the tip of South America, overlooking the Beagle channel.

end of the world highway

Getting to Patagonia

Getting to Patagonia is straightforward. After flying into Santiago, Chile, or Buenos Aires, Argentina, domestic jets will take you to Puerto Montt, Coyhaique, Bariloche, or El Calafate and homeward bound from Punta Arenas or Ushuaia. Most nationalities do not require a visa to enter Chile. Citizens of some western countries require an easily obtained Argentinian reciprocity visa in advance while others, including Americans, do not.

When to Go

The best months to go are from November to March, when the daytime temperature reaches the low twenties in northern Patagonia and the low-mid teens at Ushuaia and Punta Arenas. Expect all conditions – warm, cold, sun, wind, perfect days, and storms. And that’s in the southern summer. Any other time of year would be a bold undertaking, with short days and cold, blustery weather. Note that South Americans holiday in January and February, so November, December and March are ideal.

Where to Stay

Patagonia is wild camping nirvana, unbelievable scenery and isolation at its best. Rarely will you need to camp more than one night in a row as the small towns typically have a handful of cheap, friendly family run hosterias which also offer meals. For those not on a budget, the riverside fly fishing lodges, estancias (ranches), and upmarket accommodations in the tourist centers offer luxury and the opportunity to sample fine wines and dine on local specialities, including Patagonian lamb, Argentinian beef and the ubiquitous seafood.

Type of Bike and Gear to Bring

Hard tail mountain bikes and cyclocross bikes are best suited for a trans-Patagonia cycling expedition. Buy the best rear (and front) racks you can find as they will take a pounding on some of the rougher stretches which can include a fair amount of corrugation. Carry all the essential spare parts you need for your bike, as well as a water filter for when you are in the wilderness and there is no fast flowing mountain stream or river nearby. The better your equipment – including gortex rain gear, warm layers, an all season tent, and extra tent pegs to combat the wind – the less likely you will encounter a setback and the more enjoyable your trip of a lifetime will be.

Torres del Paine & Condor  Timothy Dhalleine

Torres del Paine & Condor, photo credit: Timothy Dhalleine / Twitter @tdhalleine 

Further Reading

There is a great deal of useful information online for this region. Here are several of my sources and other sites and blogs I came across while putting this piece together.

11 Best Bike Touring Destinations in the World – Cycling About
Patagonia Region, Argentina – Encyclopedia Britanica
Sublime Carretera Austral – Cycling with Serendipity
10 Questions: Cycling Patagonia – TravellingTwo
Carretera Austral and Patagonia – CrazyGuyOnABike
Guide to Patagonia – Guardian Travel
Patagonia Trip of a Lifetime – Telegraph Travel
Patagonia – Lonely Planet
A Single Track Mind – TDA Global Cycling blog

And if you are looking for a supported cycling tour thru Patagonia consider joining us on the South American Epic as it passes thru Patagonia.

Closing Thoughts

Do it now! Patagonia is changing, the Carretera Austral is being paved, the gauntlet between Villa O’Higgins and El Chaltén may soon be replaced by a road and bridges, so … if you want to experience this magnificent region at its wildest you are starting to run out of time.

offroad thru temperate rainforest

That’s me loving Parque Pumalin in Patagonia last year

Lastly. here is some advice from one of my fellow cyclists for those considering this cycling adventure…

“Be prepared to face some of the harshest conditions from weather to the route to the camping.Be prepared to cycle in some of the most scenic and desolate areas on earth. Be prepared for the awe. Expect the unexpected!” – Lorry Schmidt (Canada)

Brian Hoeniger works for TDA Global Cycling and cycled the Carretera Austral segment of the 2015 South American Epic. Registration is now open for the next edition starting in July 2017. 

16 Comments for "Cycling Patagonia: Everything You Need to Know"

Patagônia is the best place to ride in South America!!! ever…

    great article Brian! you have my curiosity up and can’t wait to give it a try! cheers Lloyd

Hi fellows riders
I ‘m a french bike rider , 68 y old
Last year , 2016 , i ride as single ,the entire Carretera Austral , from Puertto Mont to Punta Arenas , an amazing experience
Looking now forword to thr Trans Canada Trail , with a partner to be find
I you heard anyone interesred to follow me on this path , please let me know
Many thanks and congrztulation to TDA

    Hello Henri,

    I am Steve, 71 years old, in one week I will be in Puerto Montt, riding South, to El Chalten. I am glad you had a good trip, I hope for the same! I have 3 weeks to do this – hope it is enough time.

Great Article!! Would you recommend the route from north to south or south to north and why?

Will go through Patagonia, but not sure which direction. I will start in November.

Thank you for the advice

    Hey,
    I want cycle through this road.
    Same question North -> South or South -> North.
    Have you done it ?
    Any advice ?

    Cheers.
    thibault

      Hello Baily, we got this advice from our tour leader Cristiano…

      We scouted it by car and rode across with about 50 people in 2015 and we are just about to do it again with the group in the 2017 SAE Tour. Most of the serious wind that people talk about is in the Argentinean part of Patagonia. Choose wisely not only the direction but also the time of the year!

      We felt that the wind was for the most part coming from the W or NW, so I would suggest North to South. But this is tricky advice since that is not as predictable as we would like it to be.
      -Cristiano Werneck

Daar,
Do you have a dutch Office or representative with who I could talk about The Patagonia tour.

Thanks,

Gino.

There is a group of us from the UK planning on doing the trip on our own bikes. Does anyone know how easy it is to get bikes and the rest of our equipment on the local airlines from Santiago etc. Has anyone had experience of bringing their bikes and equipment from Europe?

Thanks

Ian

great article! you have me curious about the place.I can’t wait to give it a try!

Realise its probably like asking how long is a piece of string….but, how long would you estimate the cycle from puerto montt to puerto natales should take? Planning on heading over at Christmas time and just wanted to get a rough sense of how long it takes.

Cheers,

    Before I answer your question you’d have to tell me how strong a cyclist you are, how much baggage you intend to carry, how far you’d like to cycle each day on a mix of paved and gravel roads with some climbs and descents.

hey my name is matt. planning on riding in chile this november. would 3 months be enough for a trip riding from santiago to Ushuaia. My main goal is exploring patagonia. what route would you recommend from santiago to puerto montt? or am i better of flying tyo Puerto montt and beginning from there? i am new to cycle touring, im from australia and only had 1 o/s tour under my belt. im relatively fit but dont like to exceed 70-100 km a day. any advice would be much appreciated.

thanks matt

Hi,

What is the weather going to be like starting in October? I know that November is already considered the shoulder season but what about October? If I started in Puerto Montt in October and rode South, could I be riding the warmer weather as it goes South?

I have a three/ five day window is there any groups I could join .

November and I would need to hire a bike .
I am a regular cyclist.
I will be staying in Montevideo and could cycle anywhere but would prefer to be group led.

Thanks..

    Hi Don, Sorry but at this time we do not have anything in South America but I am sure if you do a little research you can find something. Have a good ride.

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