Nicholas Coe is the Content Creator for the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. He sends his final report from Ushuaia, Argentina.

Ushuaia, the final destination for the South American Epic, is the southernmost city on Earth – literally the end of the world. After five thousand eight hundred and ten kilometres and sixty nine days, we arrived at the tip of South America. It’s mind boggling to see where we are on Google Maps.

Finishing an expedition is a bittersweet moment. Riders are cheerful and sorrowful. Energized and exhausted. You ride into the final hotel with, of course, a tough final climb up to it  and now what? While breaking down his bike, rider Ted stated, “What am I going to do now, when I am home and get back from a bike ride and there isn’t soup or a meal made for me?” Or riders Alain and Hugh, now thinking about how they are going straight to work from the airport. Work?? Now that’s a change in mindset.

The last climb

The timing of our arrival in Ushuaia was extra special. Argentina was playing the Netherlands in the World Cup the day we arrived in town and being in the country that celebrates football intensely, man did we have an experience. Every rider watched as the match went into penalties. The energy in the room exploded when Argentina won but little did we know the bomb that had exploded out in the streets. We walked to our final dinner together through streets of honking horns and blue and white flags. The energy was incredible!

Victory!

A group of riders – the gal pals – Maggie, Debbie, and Marnie went on a penguin tour the next day. Talking to Debbie afterwards, she stated how “it was a great way to conclude the trip. a pleasant, happy experience.” I’m glad this group of friends, who met on this tour, were able to get away and share one last special South American experience together (and I’m jealous I didn’t go).

Done and dusted

Ushuaia is a place of mountains sliding into the ocean. Hills like San Francisco. Famous for penguins and journeys to Antarctica. A town overlooked by glaciers. We are almost numb to the beauty and just how extraordinary this place is. This is a result of two and a half months of intense adrenaline and being overwhelmed by scenic bliss. These countries, Argentina and Chile, have some of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever seen. Seeing so many bike packers traveling the same roads as us made us realize how special this journey is. People come from all around the world to cycle the route that we just completed. Now that it’s finished, we suddenly realize how this was a trip of a lifetime.

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Nicholas Coe is the Content Creator for the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. He reports on the experience of cycling in Patagonia.

After leaving Puerto Montt, our cycling lifestyle completely changed. We have had a few hurdles to jump through on our new journey – ferries, rain, campsites and food. It was almost like entering a different country, a different world. We knew that, at last, we had officially entered Patagonia.

While cycling through Patagonia on an epic expedition, it’s almost impossible to stay in a warm cabin and bed every night. This place forces you to camp. This adds to the experience of being here and we’ve been camping in some spectacular spots like a lamb farm when you’re greeted by herds of sheep or farm animals in the morning or on a body of water surrounded by snowy peaks.

You never know what you’re going to eat when you roll into camp. After one hundred and twenty kilometres on gravel roads and over a thousand meters of climbing, you’ll eat basically anything but our chef, Mark Lutz, has been spoiling us. What about a giant fish caught that very day or a full lamb cooked over an open fire by a local farmer?!

There are kilometres of roads without any development. If we did see something, it was a simple homestead and we wondered how they get any supplies, food, etc. Rider Janet once said while looking at a log cabin, “Wow, they must really hate people”. Riding here, you have to deal with very few coke and coffee stops. From previously having four stops a day to none at all, it’s a mental challenge to overcome while cycling each day.

The weather? Well it’s most unpredictable! Expect rain, and be surprised by sunshine. I have never seen a group of people who are more able to withstand weather than our riders. They cycle through cold, wind, rain –  sometimes at the same time! Everyone’s true colours came out riding into Villa O’Higgins – everyone was astonishingly positive. Rider Marnie rolled into lunch with water dripping from her gloves and helmet and the first thing she said was “Is everyone okay?” She was thinking about the group way before thinking about herself.

Ferries? Wow, have we dealt with ferries. Our first ride was a six hour ferry through gorgeous Patagonian channels. Since then, we have ridden on another four ferries! One particular ferry was the cause of us getting to know the little town Villa O’Higgins so well. Villa O’Higgins, population six hundred, sits at the end of the Carretera Austral. The South American Epic rolled into this town with the biggest group the town has seen in four years and we ended up staying way longer than expected. We were supposed to stay just one night and then hop on a ferry for an epic journey across a lake to an island where we would cross into Argentina, hop on yet another ferry, before riding into El Chalten.

Due to high winds on the lake, the ferry couldn’t operate and there was nothing we could do. At first, the uncertainty made us worry as a group but soon, after accepting the inevitable, the group started appreciating where they were. The quaintness of the town inspired everyone. A brewery, Ventisca Cerveceria Patagonia, was a rider favourite with its friendly atmosphere, good beer, great food and Wifi. It was opened just a year ago by a lovely local couple and you could feel their passion for it when walking through its wooden doors.

The staff are extremely proud of this group of riders. They have been going into many unexpected situations with no hesitation at all. They are tough and resilient, two traits you definitely need while cycling though Patagonia.

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This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Nicholas Coe is the Content Creator for the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. He sends this report from Patagonia.

On TDA Global Cycling expeditions, your body goes through a lot. Cycling one hundred kilometres and more every day while sleeping in a tent is not an easy day in the park!

Everyone has their own way of coping with this stress. One rider, Maggie, leads yoga stretches almost every afternoon in camp. These are for anyone who wants to join in. Others stretch alone and on their own time. Our doctor, Harrison, has introduced a new taping method using ‘blue tape’. For those with consistent aching muscle pains, this tape adds a little extra stabilizing. Rest days on camping expeditions are treasured for the opportunities for self care. They are a different kind of resting. Everyone’s schedules are planned around a rest day and what they’ll be like.

What do we do on rest days? Well basically anything. Rest days allow us to be tourists. Sure, you can relax and get a message, but there’s a new world waiting to be explored. We can fully engulf ourselves in a new culture. Instead of being on the move constantly and biking right through places, we can be in a place for more than 24 hours – and discover what the location holds!

When speaking to riders about our rest days, one day has stood out from the others – Pucon. This small tourist town in the middle of Chile stole everyone’s heart. We fell in love with it for its beauty and culture. Set on a lake overlooked by a gigantic snowy volcano, it might’ve been one of the most beautiful towns we will ever see.

The economy revolves around the outdoor industry. Let’s just say we did not ‘rest’ here. Riders hired guides and climbed the volcano. Others went white water rafting. Adrenaline seekers are in heaven here. There were thoughts about going mountain biking or renting backcountry skis as well. We wouldn’t have known about Pucon without stopping there for a day. My point is that being a tourist and not cycling everyday is a different form of self care. One could say it’s giving yourself a mental break from cycling.

Dealing with rain is a new obstacle we have faced in Patagonia. From not seeing rain for a month to dealing with rain almost every day is the biggest challenge for the group. How do we deal with this? The rain wear comes out. In any form possible. We all have rain jackets that are breathable for cycling and have a cheap poncho for in camp. One key factor in the rain is keeping your feet dry. I’ve seen riders with specialized cycling shoe covers and have seen others put their feet into plastic bags and then into their riding shoes. Whatever works!

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Nicholas Coe is the Content Creator for the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. In this report, he looks at the food in both Argentina and Chile.

Now that we have experienced time in Argentina and Chile, the group has been able to taste local foods in both countries of this expedition. Either while on the road cycling or enjoying a rest day, we are getting a taste of local foods almost every day.

Chef Mark at the grill

From our experience, Argentina knows how to cook meat. Beef, beef, beef! It is of extremely high quality, but low in diversity. They have just a few things they specialize in, but those things are really, really good. Good maté, good parrilla, good beef and Dulce de Leche, of course (they use it like people in the US and UK use peanut butter). Parrilla is basically the Argentinian word for grilling. It refers to any meat that is cooked over an open fire or coals on a grill – and almost every restaurant cooks that way.

Group dinner

The group had a rest day in Mendoza, the capital for Malbec wine in Argentina. We caught wind of a restaurant that was considered one of the best wine restaurants in the world – Abrasado Restaurante. The steak to wine pairing certainly did not disappoint. It felt like a must do, especially after passing kilometres of vineyards on the way into Mendoza the day before.

There is less variety in Argentina than in Chile which also has parrilla, but is better known for its seafood and especially ceviche. Ceviche is an interesting dish from Peru – raw fish that is soaked in a citric substance like lemon and then mixed with a variety of ingredients. With a long Pacific Ocean coastline like Chile, it would be a surprise if they didn’t eat a lot of seafood! In any coastal town, we would bike past dozens of ceviche stands.

Fresh from the sea

Our chef  Mark loves to use local foods in all of his dishes. While in Argentina, he would get local beef to add to his curry, stew, pasta, etc. While in Chile, he has used an open grill to cook fish that was caught just hours prior to the meal!

It is very interesting to observe the changes in food and cuisine as one travels along. The type of food being used is based on the resources available to the culture; beef in central Argentina and farmland and fish in coastal Chile. Other cultures also can have an influence on the food as well. Argentina is known to have fantastic ice cream (which is true!) due mainly to the country’s Italian cultural heritage.

Malbec grapes as far as the eye can see

One common interest for everyone on the South American Epic is wine. And why wouldn’t it? We are cycling in fantastic wine country! Argentinian native and TDA staffer, Juan Farias, thinks, “Argentina does Malbec the best, but Chile has the best wine.” Chilean wineries have mastered more of a variety like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carmenere but Argentinian Malbec is considered the best in the world. An added bonus is that when you are in wine country, it is typical for the wine to be extremely cheap…

As we head farther south, food is going to become scarcer with much smaller towns and much less variety available. It’s going to be interesting to see how this food transition unfolds!

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Nicholas Coe is the Content Creator for the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. In this report, he looks back at first days of cycling in Argentina.

Every journey contains the seeds for many stories. Here are 3 that germinated during the early days of the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition.

Soltando – Amarras

On the expedition’s sixth camping night, we stayed in Villa Maria – a small farm town in central Argentina known to be the centre of agricultural production. When arriving at our campground, we were greeted by an overwhelming amount of 1970 VW buses! We thought there might be a convention at this campground. And we guessed correctly. Over twenty unique motorhomes gathered here, and we were camped in the middle of it. A few riders and I walked around like it was a museum. One of the buses caught our eye.

It was an aqua, turquoise bus, decorated with personal paintings of flowers and stickers. It had a pop-up roof and a beautiful interior design (they had the sliding doors open). After some encouragement, we went to say hi to the owners. A couple, Carolina and Carlos were drinking tea inside with a friend and had the most welcoming smiles I have ever seen. They were so happy to share their story with others. It started a few years ago when they drove from Ushuaia to Alaska – the full length of South and North America combined. Imagine, the South American Epic combined with the North American Epic!

Their stories can be seen on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube. There are lots of adventures, mechanic problem solving (if you know anything about VW buses, this is hilariously common) and stories. The couple gave us some personal stickers as well, which live on our water bottles now. Carolina and Carlos are from Buenos Aires and reside there currently. The trip is done, but they are keeping the van and love going on weekend trips and meet-ups like this one with the VW community.

Difunta Correa

On most days on the road, the riders pass by little structures on the side of the road. They are surrounded by bottles of water and decorations. Our own staffer, Juan Farias, educated us on the story behind them. Juan is native to Argentina and was a history teacher here as well. The story revolves around a semi-pagan saint in folk-religion, Correa. It is said that during the revolution in the 19th century, she was walking across the country to find her husband who was involved in the fighting. She was traveling with her baby and during her travels, she died of dehydration. However, it is thought that the baby nursed itself for two days on his deceased mother, until it was found by others.

We cycle by many, many shrines along the roads dedicated to her. In the town of Vallecito, just outside of San Juan, the mother’s bones are buried making it a huge religious destination that brings many people from all over Argentina together. Difunta Correa is an interesting story that parallels ours as we pass through central Argentina. It is a story to us, but also a large part of many people’s beliefs in this part of the world.

Bermejo – Anniversary

Another parallel story we have had along our path is from the tiny town of Bermejo. The county has a population of twenty thousand, but it felt much smaller. When we arrived at camp in town, coincidentally, it was the town’s 137th anniversary. I have never been in a place that celebrates a random number like that – or maybe it was just random to me. Anyways, we were blessed with live music, ice cream, and friendly locals wishing us all the best on our journey.

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During the 2 weeks of the 2022 South American Epic that I was fortunate enough to experience on a break from our virtual office, the riders pedalled out of Argentina’s capital, Buenos Aires, and across the famous Pampas, an area of incredibly fertile soil whose products include wheat, meat and wool.

At this time of year, spring in the Southern hemisphere, the new wheat shoots appeared as a mesmerizing emerald green against the dusty brown fields. Leaving behind the vast sprawl of Buenos Aires, huge ranches and farms began to appear. They reminded me of the North American prairies…but with bright green parakeets and towering palm trees!

Our route out of the city took us along the banks of the Rio Parana, South America’s second largest river, known for its incredible floods, hence the riverside towns being built up on the nearby bluffs. Each night we camped along the water and enjoyed the beautiful views across the water. In the small town of Baradero, as the sun came up, a half dozen wild horses came racing down the dirt road along the river, their tails whipping wildly behind them, their hooves spraying dust into the air. A short time later a guacho (akin to American cowboys) appeared on a horse and effortlessly corralled the escapees and led them back home.

Four days of cycling took us into Rosario, a vibrant city of over a million people, one that I had never heard of. After just one rest day, I knew I would love to come back. Parks, bike lanes, art and architecture. A revitalized park that extended for over 15 kms along the river. Streets lined with towering eucalyptus and sycamore trees. Waterfront restaurants that featured elevators for diners to descend to the river from the bluffs, there to gorge on the delicious local speciality – Boga, a large freshwater fish served whole and seasoned with herbs, lemon, white wine and a variety of spices. Huge ocean going freighters glide effortlessly past on their way to Paraguay.

Rio Parana @ Rosario

In the city centre there are almost no stoplights/stop signs. It is all about yielding but when I asked Juan, our local Argentinian support, about the rules he simply shrugged his shoulders and said he had no idea. Perhaps that explains the few lights that I did see where the green pedestrian signal showed the traditional little green man but in this case his legs were moving quickly, as if he were running for his life.

Rosario is also where Che Guevara was born, is home to the incredible footballer Lionel Messi (left in background) and was where the national flag of Argentina was first raised. As I wandered the streets, I came across a memorial to the Armenian genocide which seemed totally out of place in this city until I found out that actually the country has a substantial Armenian community. In addition, a large number of immigrants from the Middle East made Argentina their new home. One of the past presidents, Carlos Menem, who was in power from 1989-99, had parents who emigrated from Syria. When I mentioned him to Juan, he hissed at me, as it is considered bad luck to even say his name out loud as a result of the disastrous economic polices that he implemented.

After our rest day here, we turned northwest and headed out across the pampas once more. The next 4 days introduced us to the famous winds including the ‘pampero’ – a dramatic blast of cold antarctic air from the southwest. This usually occurs in the Spring months and, as we found out, can dramatically alter the temperature. The second day out of Rosario, from Las Rosas to Villa Maria, was already going to be a challenge. At 158 km, it was the second longest day on the entire tour.

On the day leaving Roasario, the winds started to pick up and actually blew a canopy right off one of the support vehicles. That night, as I lay in my tent, the winds howled and the temperature dropped. By dawn, the only thing holding the tent in place was my weight. I figured the day’s ride might be cancelled but the riders insisted on giving it a try and off they went. By the end of the day, only 2 riders managed to cycle the entire distance but everyone gave it a try. Quite an amazing group of riders.

Fortunately, the winds began to die down over the next 2 days and the temperature returned to normal. The route continued across the endless pampas and we were thrilled to see how much bird life the fields supported. The most impressive was the huge bird of prey, the Caracara, which liked to perch on the fenceposts and watch us as we pedalled past. As we drew closer to the historic city or Cordoba, the landscape started to change, rolling hills began to appear and in the distance the shadow of the Sierras de Córdoba, the mountain range to the west that marks the end of the magnificent northern pampas, emerged.

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I landed in Buenos Aires after a long overnight flight that (per usual these days) included a couple of delays including one where a Brazilian airport employee drove a baggage cart into the side of the plane. The airport in Buenos Aires was much calmer and smaller than I had expected for a large city (pop. 15 million) and my initial opinion was not improved by what seemed to be a vast swath of ugly, degraded high rises bracketing the highway on the way in from the airport. Ill winds, indeed!

After a good night’s sleep I was able to wander around the city centre and my mood shifted drastically. The area is a grid of cobblestone streets each dotted with small shops. This is Argentina, land of meat-eaters, and so almost each small food shop contained it’s own ‘carniceria’ (meat counter) but also a great selection of fruit and veggies.

There was a touch of Paris in the air with corner bars complete with stand-up coffee counters and take out windows.

Walking up and down the streets, I noticed a number of rail lines, peeking out from under the pavement. Curious, I investigated a little and discovered that Buenos Aires had, in the past, been known as ‘The City of Trams’. At its peak in the 1920’s, the system featured almost 900 km of track and 100 lines. Unfortunately, in the 1960’s, like many cities throughout the western world, the municipal authorities decided to replace the city’s trams with buses and after 100 years of distinguished service they were completely eliminated.

This is also a very political city. Out walking you can hear bells, whistles and drums almost constantly, the sound of the numerous political protests in the streets. These days they are usually good-natured and friendly but the possibility of violence in never far from the surface. After all, it has only been 45 years since the generals were kidnapping ‘subversives’, stealing their babies to be brought up by military families and throwing prisoners, still alive, from helicopters into the Rio de la Plata River. That sort of history doesn’t just vanish without leaving some serious scars behind.

One of the most inspiring sights is to be found in the Plaza de Mayo. Here, the Madres de Plaza Mayo (Mothers of the Plaza Mayo) are remembered. In opposition to the military junta during the ‘Dirty War’ (1976-83), mothers of children who had kidnapped decided to demonstrate for their live return, donning children’s diapers (later replaced by white headscarves) on their heads as a political statement, creating an unforgettable image. Their courage was incredible as many of the group were targeted and eliminated. In fact, one of the founders who was killed, Azucena Villaflor, has her ashes buried in the Plaza de Mayo itself.

A few minutes walk from the Plaza, there is an area of old warehouses and harbour cranes that has been re-invented as a beautiful place to walk along the old canal and enjoy some incredible views and delicious food. Just a little further east is the beautiful Reserva Ecologica Constanera, a large marshy nature reserve that is home to hundreds of bird species and makes for an easy and relaxing escape from the hectic streets of Buenos Aires. Along the edge of the reserve runs a boardwalk with numerous food trucks for a bite to eat after a wonderful nature walk. Smooth sailing, indeed.

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A 4500 m high salt lake littered with flamingoes flapping wings. Vicunas hiding behind volcanic boulders. Wind gusting, creating a sandy haze from the desert landscape and eventually a purplish sunset. To me it sounds beautiful, but with the temperature near zero degrees, the sun setting and me standing out in the open in the process of cooking for a group of cyclists crossing South America, it was hard to focus on anything other than the struggle. This is near the Chilean, Bolivian border. It’s, to say the least, remote. A large area with a skull and crossbones sign and fencing nearby illustrates the unrecovered land mines planted in the ground during times of heightened tension between the two countries.

Bolivian Salt Flats

The cyclists on TDA Global Cycling’s South American Epic cross from Cartagena, Colombia to Ushuaia, Argentina. It’s a 5-½ month journey covering nearly 14,000km. As an expedition chef, the job is to keep those bodies fed, healthy and in good spirits. If you can succeed in at least 2 out of those 3 you’re doing well!

Crazy for corn

South America presents countless opportunities as a chef to experiment with the local culinary scene, shop the small village markets and in the case of Argentina gorge oneself on the local grilled meats and wines. One of my favourite memories from the 2009 edition of the trip, which was at the time named the Vuelta Sud Americana and traveled from Rio de Janeiro to Quito, is arriving to a small coastal town just outside Lima, Peru. It was about 10 in the morning, but as our dinner was going to be at our hotel’s restaurant the pressure was not on me to cook. Taking advantage of this, myself and some of our other tour staff found a nearby restaurant by the sea and ordered ceviche’s and beer. Nothing could possibly compare to that ceviche. It was the perfect blend of citrus, heat from local chilis and the freshness of the seafood caught just that morning. Being a chef takes it’s toll, you end up all twitchy and irritable, but it’s mornings like that that make traveling the world as a hobo with tongs worthwhile.

Ceviche & beer

On a trip that long you also get introduced to some oddities that you could have done without. Like having all of your belongings stolen from your tent by someone with a big enough knife to slash a gaping hole in it, luckily I wasn’t inside. For every instance like that though there are ten such times that make up for it, like buying an entire crate of mangoes in Ecuador for about $5, or zipping through a coastal desert city in Peru on a Tuk Tuk to go to the market and buy 10kg of Crayfish, or watching a local in Uruguay cook a pig by cold smoking it over the course of 9 hours.

When I started working on the 2009 South America trip, I had just completed the Orient Express tour in Europe a week before and had spent 3 days driving from Istanbul to Vienna, then flying across the Atlantic to Miami, then flying across a continent to be at the start line in Rio de Janeiro on time. Sometimes the countries all become a blur and the borders take on an absurd hue that makes you hope one day for their erasure.

Cristiano on the Salar

One of the great surprises and pleasures of arriving was finding a long-haired Brazilian guy in the hotel room we’d be sharing for 1 night in Rio before the tour began. His name was Cristiano, little did I know we’d be working together from that time, 11 years ago, right up till the present, and into the future, and that he would be organizing TDA’s trips in the Americas and as far away as India. He introduced me to one of my favourite foods in the world, which only exists at Brazilian street vendors and truck stops, the Coxinha, a deep fried dumpling full of chicken salad. Another Brazilian treat was Feijoada, a stew of black beans with salted pork and sausages!

Coxinha

As a last story from TDA’s 2009 South America tour, I’ll mention a tiny village tucked into a high mountain valley in the rugged Andes between Cusco and Nazca, Peru. The group camped in the field of a local farmer who was kind to have us sleep there for the night. I was busy cooking for the group, as the farmer watched from a short distance away, when dinner was ready, he sat and ate with us and communicated in Spanish to those others in the group who could speak to him. As we cleaned up after our meal, he came over and motioned for me to follow him towards his nearby home. He led me to a small shack next to his house and with a big smile opened the wooden door for me to peek inside. It was very dark, with a dirt floor, but as my eyes adjusted, I could see small animals scurrying around on the ground, guinea pigs. He shut the door and went about getting a fire started outside, turning wood into coals, then did some business with a few guinea pigs that left them skinned and skewered. Sitting there in the deep night with mountain stars overhead, smelling the roasting guinea pigs and getting ready to try this dish for the first time, I reached for a deeper meaning in it all, but after my first bite, all I could say was…“Tastes like Chicken”.

If you find yourself in Lima, Peru, either as a participant in our South American Epic Cycling Expedition or just on your own, you will likely head out to see the city’s famous sights – the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, the Museo de Arte de Lima and the Plaza de Armas. They are certainly worth a visit but dig a little deeper and you will find some more, rather unusual attractions that are worth checking out.

Mercado de Brujas (Witches’ Market)

This unusual market is situated just outside the Gamarra train station. Once you get past the mediums offering readings and treatments, the vendors selling python skins, the witch doctors, the healers, the snake oil salesmen and the live animal market you will have the opportunity to buy palo santo, dried llama fetus, divination cards, charms, soaps, perfumes, crystals and all sorts of things to ward off evil and to attract good fortune. Or perhaps you would prefer something to drink? How about a potion that is made with a live frog plucked from a fish tank, plus pollen, coca, quail egg, honey, a fruit called noni and agorrobina, a syrup made from the black carob tree? Whatever ails you, the witches’ market is bound to have a folk remedy that claims to cure it.

Bosque el Olivar (Olive Grove Forest)

In 1560, not long after the fall of the Inca Empire, Spaniard Antonio de Rivera sailed from Sevilla, Spain, to Lima, Peru with over 100 olive plants. Only 3 survived the voyage but they thrived in the mild climate and by the time Peru gained independence in 1821, they had grown to over 3,000 trees! During the Peruvian War of Independence (1811-1826), the grove suffered badly, mainly at the hands of some departing Spaniards who chopped down and generally mutilated many of the olive trees. However, many of the trees in the grove, Bosque el Olivar, survived and about 1700 still exist today. It features, in addition to the olive trees, 44 species of trees and more than 20 species of birds, including scarlet flycatchers, blue-gray tanagers and Harris’s hawks. The olives are still harvested and distributed throughout the neighbourhood.

Expreso Virgen de Guadalupe

Wandering aimlessly through Lima’s chaotic streets the smell of coffee might lead you to the Expreso Virgen de Guadalupe, an old rail car now transformed into a cafe, serving delicious coffee and light meals. Built in Britain in the 1870’s the car was used on the Lima to Guadalupe route until the late 1990’s before being auctioned off and transformed into a cafe. It features polished pine and rosewood, elegant stained-glass windows and fin-de-siècle light fixtures. You can also enjoy your java on the adjoining patio and on the weekends there is often live music.

Abtao Submarine Museum

Always wanted to captain a submarine? Well, here is your chance. Hop aboard the BAP Abtao (SS-42) down by the harbour in Lima and give it a shot. The sub was in service with the Peruvian Navy for 48 years before being turned into South America’s first floating museum. There are no stairs and you enter and exit using vertical ladders. A special sound and light system combined with the ability to pull levers, raise periscopes and  turn dials and the gentle roll of the harbour waves makes the experience come to life. You can also use the cannon on deck, or simply enjoy the view of the port of Callao from the submarine. Be aware, the tours are in Spanish only.

Paddington Bear of Lima

Credit: Art DiNo CC BY-SA 2.0

Not many people know the connection between Paddington Bear and Peru – I sure did not! As we all know, Paddington Bear was found at Paddington railway station in London by the Brown family, sitting on his suitcase with a note attached to his coat that reads “Please look after this bear. Thank you.” What you may not realize is that he arrived there as a stowaway coming from “Darkest Peru”, sent by his Aunt Lucy who had gone to live in the Home for Retired Bears in Lima. In fact, Paddington’s real Peruvian name is Pastuso. Located in Parque Salazar along the Miraflores Boardwalk, looking out over the Bay of Santander, this statue was unveiled in 2015 to commemorate the strong ties between the UK and Peru.

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This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Anyone planning to embark on a 5 1/2 month bicycle tour from the top to the tip of South America, like the South American Epic Cycling Expedition, is certainly undertaking a daunting project. Riders will have a lot think about. Many things will worry them – visas, traffic, clean drinking water, flush toilets, robbery and even kidnapping. Having run cycling expeditions in South America since 2009, our staff are happy to respond to these concerns. Yet they are continually puzzled by the fact that our riders have yet to inquire about a very real and present danger along the route – monsters. They are lurking everywhere and if our cyclists are not careful, they could easily become one of their victims.

The Mother Mountain In Colombia

The first country on the South America Epic Cycling Expedition is Colombia. Sooner or later riders will pedal through one of the country’s vast forests. This is where La Madremonte’s (the Mother Mountain) spirit lives. She is known to control the weather and can easily  cause cyclists to lose their way – despite whiteboards, flagging tape and GPS tracks!

The Poisoned Urine Of The Boraro

Another scary monster living in the rainforests of Ecuador, the second country on the route of the South American Epic Cycling Expedition, is the Boraro. He has backward feet, is extremely tall and his pale skin is covered with hair. His fangs and large ears face forward. He doesn’t have knee joints so if he falls over, he has a very tough time getting back up. His poisoned urine is his primary lethal weapon but he can also kill by crushing your body until it liquefies and then piercing your skull and sucking out your brains. The Boraro protects wildlife so be careful how you treat the local critters! If you do come across him, be sure to have some tobacco to offer him. If you do not have any, cycle backwards, as this will confuse him.

Maricoxi – The Bigfoot Of The Andes

North America has Bigfoot. The Himalayas have the Yeti. In the forests of Amazon, including Peru the next county on the South American Epic itinerary, you should keep your eyes out for the Maricoxi – enormous hairy ‘savages’ that don’t speak but do grunt. People who have encountered them describe them as over 4 metres tall. So, while cycling, make sure you have your iPhone ready – just in case!

The Alligator Man of Peru

In Peru, cyclists will also ride along the coast where they should be on a lookout for El Hombre Caiman (the Alligator Man). El Hombre Caiman, like all good legends, starts as a love story. He once was a man who fell in love with a daughter of a rich man who absolutely forbade their union. The daughter used to go swimming each day and her unhappy lover, after watching her from a restaurant for many months, finally went and joined her. He repeated this day after day until suddenly one day he was turned into an alligator. It would be wise to be keep this in mind if you decide to go for a dip after a long day of cycling.

The Immortal Shaman of Bolivia

Bolivia is the next country that cyclists on the South American Epic will spent a lot of time in. Here, thousands of years ago, lived a shaman, Mapinguari, who was said to have discovered immortality. The Gods were not very happy with this discovery. In fact, they were so angry that they turned him into a wandering beast. The few lucky people who claim to have seen the shaman describe him as a giant sloth. Of course, there is a possibility that they were simply seeing a real giant sloth or maybe even a Megatherium – a large ground sloth that lived in the area during the last Ice Age.

A Chilean Chimera

From Bolivia, the cyclists will pedal into Chile, home to another scary and powerful monster. According to Mental Floss magazine, “the Huallepen or Guallipen is a Chilean chimera with the head of calf, the body of a sheep, and twisted feet. The monster lives in rivers and lakes, and will mate with livestock, producing deformed offspring. Even the sight of the Huallepen can cause a pregnant woman to bear a deformed child.” Hopefully, he will not be attracted to bicycles!

Loch Ness’ Cousin in Argentina

Finally, there is a monster lurking in Argentina. Nahuelito is a cousin to the Loch Ness monster and is reportedly living in a lake in Patagonia. There are photos that claim to prove the existence of this monster. Whether the photos were taken by a cyclist or not, after five months of spinning across South America, it is possible that cyclists may see monsters everywhere.

Fortunately, like most things that people worry about before joining our tours, these monsters have more to do with our own insecurities and lack of information than anything real out there.

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Ah, the tastes of South America! When people think of the food scene on that vast continent they generally picture ceviche and Pisco sours in Peru or steak and bold red wines in Argentina. There are, however, some other, less-known highlights of the culinary scene that one can visit, ideally while riding the South American Epic Cycling Expedition.

Here are 6 of my favourites:

KGB Cartagena, Colombia

Soviet KGB medal

Cartagena is well-known for its historic UNESCO World Heritage Sites, stunning colonial heritage and sun-soaked beaches but did you know that in the middle of the city’s Centro Historico, you can enjoy a drink or two surrounded by an extensive collection of KGB memorabilia? Look for the mural of Lenin on the outside. Inside? Kitsch galore! Soviet era cartoons and military parades on tap, guns, helmets, servers dressed as KBG officers and a back area made into a replica of the inside of a Soviet submarine. Crack open an authentic Baltika beer from the Motherland and enjoy the retro vibe.

La Puerta Falsa, Bogota, Colombia

Colombian tamale

After a day of exploring Bogota’s oldest neighbourhood, La Candelaria, be sure to slip into one of the city’s oldest and most traditional restaurants. La Puerta Falsa (The False Door), seats maybe 20, has been around for over 200 years and offers up a simple menu of tamales, bowls of ajiaco soup (chicken and potatoes) and chocolate completo, a traditional Colombian hot chocolate with cheese, buttered bread, and a biscuit. In fact, the late Anthony Bourdain choose to try the tamales at this hole in the wall and, as he sank his knife into a succulent Bogotá tamale, exclaimed it was a “thing of beauty.” High praise indeed!

Coca Museum, Cusco, Peru

Coca leaves in the market, Cusco, Peru

Of course, the first thing you think of when someone mentions Cusco, Peru is Machu Picchu! And you should certainly visit it while you are in the city. If you do have a spare hour or so, however, look for this small museum, located just off the main square. This strange but interesting place provides an exhaustive history of Coca, a sacred native Andean planet. The locals have used it for centuries, both for religious and nutritional reasons. Those of us in the west know it mainly as an original flavouring in Coca-Cola and the essential ingredient for the production of cocaine. In fact, the museum even shows you how to make the narcotic at home! You can learn the proper way to chew coca leaves (which might help the riders on the South American Epic deal with the next high altitude stretch) and purchase all sorts of coca products from the attached store. Just be aware that many countries will not let you cross a border with the vast majority of these items. If you run out of time, note that both Puno, Peru and La Paz, Bolivia have their own Coca Museums.

Guinea Pig Last Supper, Cusco, Peru

Cusco Cathedral, Cusco, Peru

The Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin, also known as Cusco Cathedral, is located on the city’s Plaza de Armas. Its construction took over a century (1560-1654) and this UNESCO World Heritage Site contains some of Peru’s finest colonial art. Amongst these treasures in an unexpected twist on classic religious iconography. Many artists have tried their hand at painting the Last Supper but in 1753 Marco Zapata, a Peruvian Quechua painter and member of the Cusco School (the tradition of teaching European art techniques in the Americas), portrayed Jesus and his disciples enjoying a local delicacy and an Incan food staple. In the centre of the table lies a cooked guinea pig, lying paws up on a plate. It is a mystery that this image was tolerated by the Catholic authorities, especially at the time of the Inquisition. In addition to the unusual main dish, the purple drink that the disciples have is not wine but instead a traditional Peruvian drink, chicha, which is made from maize.

Olive Grove Forest, San Isidro, Peru

In 1560, not long after the fall of the Inca Empire, Spaniard Antonio de Rivera sailed from Sevilla, Spain, to Lima, Peru with over 100 olive plants. Only 3 survived the voyage but they thrived in the mild climate and by the time Peru gained independence in 1821, they had grown to over 3,000 trees! During the Peruvian War of Independence (1811-1826), the grove suffered badly, mainly at the hands of some departing Spaniards who chopped down and generally mutilated many of the olive trees. However, many of the trees in the grove, Bosque el Olivar, survived and about 1700 still exist today. In the 1920’s the area was subdivided for housing and the new owners integrated the existing olive trees into their front and back yards. Today it is a charming park just 6 km from downtown Lima. It features, in addition to the olive trees, 44 species of trees and more than 20 species of birds, including scarlet flycatchers, blue-gray tanagers and Harris’s hawks. The olives are still harvested and distributed throughout the neighbourhood.

Glaciobar, El Calafate, Argentina

Perhaps you have tried Iceberg Vodka, a Canadian spirit produced using water from icebergs harvested off the coast of Newfoundland? Perhaps, but have you enjoyed a tipple at the world’s only bar made completely from glacial ice? If you make it to the southern Argentinian town of El Calafate, be sure to head out to the Glaciarium, a modern glacier interpretation centre, located about four miles out of town, just off the road that leads out to the Perito Moreno Glacier. In addition to its informative multimedia exhibitions explaining how ice is formed and how glaciers move and shape their surroundings, the building hosts the Glaciobar, the world’s only bar made completely from glacial ice, including the seats, tables, and the glasses. Capes, gloves and boots are provided but your stay is limited to 20 minutes. It is not everyone’s cup of tea – one reviewer wrote – “In the museum is an ‘ice bar’ which is tantamount to a big industrial freezer where, after paying to enter, you can drink all you want for 20 minutes. Better to go to a restaurant and ask for a cold mug of beer.”

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South America is on many of our life long bucket lists of places to visit. We have created the perfect section for those who can’t do the whole 5 1/2 month long South American Epic Cycling Expedition but want to experience the culture, see some sights, challenge themselves and walk away feeling like they accomplished something amazing!

Here are five reasons to cycle The Gringo Trail from Lima to Cusco in Peru.

1 – Not Your Typical Gringo

Not actual TDA rider

Riding your bike through South America is definitely not the usual way people do their trips. More often then not you see the photos your friends posted on social media enjoying themselves on the beach, wearing flip flops with golden tans and a spectacular view in the background. That’s all well and nice but why not do things a little differently.  If you are thinking about embarking on The Gringo Trail section of the South American Epic then your photos could look a little more like this.

2 – Two Big Bucket List Sights

Nazca Hummingbird

Machu Picchu

If you embark on this journey you will finally get the chance to visit the royal estate of Machu Picchu and the mysterious Nazca Lines in the Nazca desert. We have written about these beautiful and historic places before but The Gringo Trail is an ideal choice if those are some of your top South America destinations.

3 – Get The Strongest You’ve Ever Been, Thanks To The Andes

Not actual TDA riders

The Andes mountains are no joke when it comes to climbing. The Gringo Trail will get you a hefty taste of what it’s like to cycle the highest mountain range outside of Asia. What this means is you will never look at a tiny hill the same again, you wont be afraid of any other climb you encounter and you might even leave with rock hard legs of steel (legs of steel are not guaranteed).

4 – Lima’s Puente De Los Suspiros (Translated, The Bridge Of Sighs)

Not actual bridge

This landmark bridge is located in the bohemian Barranco district of Lima. It’s said to be the most romantic district in Lima, drawing in lovers, poets and musicians to the area. The bridge was built with a simple intention, to cross the Bajada de los Baños which leads locals and visitors to the beautiful views of the Pacific. Over the years it’s reputation started to build as a magical place to visit.  It’s said that if you hold your breath while crossing over it all your life long wishes will come true (or so they say…)

5 – Sea Lions

Not a real Sea Lion.

Have you ever seen a sea lion in the wild? If you have then you might have noticed how much they look very similar to your neighbours dog, the Labrador. They not only look like mans best friend they really do have multiple similarities. These magnificent animals have the ability to walk on all fours, have short, thick hair, and big belly’s filled with food. If you are lucky you might have the chance to see these dog like creatures multiple times on the tour. Though,  instead of stopping to give them a pet along the way, we would advise you to admire them from afar. They tend to be slightly more grumpy then the Labrador we all know and love, after all they do have to hunt for all their own food.

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We have been talking a lot lately about the South American Epic. It is our longest tour by number of days but we can’t forget that many people will be signing up for two and three week sections of this 5+ month tour. So for those of you starting or ending your South American Epic in Bogota, you might be planning to spend a bit more time in the country and we have some suggestions for you.

With the peace agreement that was signed three years ago tourism has continued to increase in Colombia. It’s no longer just hotspots and UNESCO world heritage site like Cartagena and San Augustin (which we did feature recently as well) but much more of Colombia’s vast natural environments – some of which were recently occupied by FARC – are now becoming safe and more accessible.

>>RELATED POST: Is Colombia Safe for Cycling?

I was recently invited to see some of these newly opened regions by the Colombian tourism board – ProColombia. While none of these regions are on the route of the South American Epic, I thought I’d share with you what I found in hopes that some of our participants of Undiscovered Country and Coffee & Cocoa would consider checking this out before or after their cycling adventure with us (and even full tour riders who plan to arrive early to Cartagena). Domestic flights can get you quite easily to the regions I discuss below from Cartagena and Bogota and local tour operators (two suggested below) would be happy to create an itinerary for you.

Overflight of Chiribiquete National Park

Chiribiquete is the largest national park in Colombia and the largest tropical rainforest national park in the world. It is also unique because most travellers are not allowed to enter the park at all. In the past decades, even as FARC guerrillas controlled this region, the government worked with conservationists to expand the park and restrict access to protect tribes within the park who had chosen to remain apart from the modern world. Fascinating stuff – read more about it here.

So for tourists like us, the way to see it is from the air on overflights organized by local tour operators. The flight gives you an amazing perspective – lush jungle, winding rivers, and dramatic rock formations called Tepui.

Swimming with Pink River Dolphins

From the town of San Jose del Guaviare we followed the Guaviare River to Damas del Nare – a lake occupied by 8 – 10 river dolphins. Apparently it is rare that these dolphins will stay in one area very long, but this group must like the local cuisine as they have been around for years and it is now a tourist attraction. The operators are careful to limit the number of visits by tourists and warned swimmers to remove sunscreen as not to pollute the water. To be honest these are the ugly cousins of bottle-nosed ocean dwelling dolphins, but its a really curious experience none the less – and a great excuse to explore the rivers, lagoons, and people that live in the area and operate these tours.

Hiking in the Jungle to Puerta de Orion

Puerta de Orion (shown in the lead photo of this blog) means ‘Gate of Orion’ and at just the right angle at the right time of the year Orion’s belt is perfectly centred in the hole in the rock and creates a beam of light in the darkness (so they say). But at anytime, taking the stroll through the jungle to reach this point is full of local knowledge shared by local guides on the plant life, and wildlife that inhabit the area (ants that can stitch wounds, plants that react to touch, plants that cure and plants that kill, and much more).

Further alone the trail, we came to Rio La Macarenia with its pink river flowers (macarenas clavijeras). At different times of the year the flowers are different colours. On our walk they were a pale pink growing on the rock bed of the river and bobbing with the water that rushes overtop of them. It was quite lovely. They could be clearly seen through the crystal clear river.

Witnessing Ancient Art on Ruta Rupestre

One day we did a 5 km walk uphill in dense jungle to see these incredible rock paintings which are only recently being properly protected, documented and tested to find out exactly how old they are. Even without ancient rock art the scenery was stunning, and the thick foliage, thick air, knotted vines, and green canopy of the jungle made for an eye opening experience for a northern climate dweller like myself.

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Learning What Coca Farmers are Doing Since the Peace Agreement

Probably my favourite part of all the activities we did was meeting Edilson and learning about how he has turned from being part of the illicit cocaine production system, to being a strong anti-drug advocate. Tourism has also been a big part of what people hope will make the peace agreement long lasting. Edilson can now invite people to his farm from all over the world to see what he used to do, what he is doing now, and meet some of his rescued animals like the ones pictured below.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3Qz-ignD47/

Thanks very much to ProColombia for bringing me to see these fascinating places. Thanks also to Colombia Oculta for the overflight of Chiribiquete and Frontera Travel for all the rest of the experiences on my list above. 

Do you love history, archeology, architecture and culture? Well, duh, of course! Then you should absolutely cycle the South American Epic in 2020. It will give you the opportunity to experience 9 UNESCO World Heritage sites; from mysterious megalithic sculptures in the jungles of Colombia to massive icebergs calving off the face of glaciers in Patagonia.

1. Port, Fortresses & Group of Monuments in Cartagena, Colombia

Bocachica Fort, Cartagena

“Situated in a bay in the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena has the most extensive fortifications in South America. A system of zones divides the city into three neighbourhoods: San Pedro, with the cathedral and many Andalusian-style palaces; San Diego, where merchants and the middle class lived; and Gethsemani, the ‘popular quarter’.” – UNESCO

2. San Agustin Archaeological Park, Colombia

Sculpture, San Agustin Archeological Park

“The largest group of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures in South America stands in a wild, spectacular landscape. Gods and mythical animals are skilfully represented in styles ranging from abstract to realist. These works of art display the creativity and imagination of a northern Andean culture that flourished from the 1st to the 8th century.” – UNESCO

3. City of Quito, Ecuador

Plaza de la Independencia, Quito

“Quito, the capital of Ecuador, was founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city and stands at an altitude of 2,850 m. Despite the 1917 earthquake, the city has the best-preserved, least altered historic centre in Latin America. The monasteries of San Francisco and Santo Domingo, and the Church and Jesuit College of La Compañía, with their rich interiors, are pure examples of the ‘Baroque school of Quito’, which is a fusion of Spanish, Italian, Moorish, Flemish and indigenous art.” – UNESCO

4. Chan Chan Archaeological Zone, Trujillo, Peru

Aerial view of ancient ruins of Chan Chan in Trujillo, Peru

“The Chimu Kingdom, with Chan Chan as its capital, reached its apogee in the 15th century, not long before falling to the Incas. The planning of this huge city, the largest in pre-Columbian America, reflects a strict political and social strategy, marked by the city’s division into nine ‘citadels’ or ‘palaces’ forming autonomous units.” – UNESCO

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5. Historic Centre of Lima, Peru

Archbishop’s Palace, Lima

“Although severely damaged by earthquakes, this ‘City of the Kings’ was, until the middle of the 18th century, the capital and most important city of the Spanish dominions in South America. Many of its buildings, such as the Convent of San Francisco (the largest of its type in this part of the world), are the result of collaboration between local craftspeople and others from the Old World.” – UNESCO

6. Lines & Geoglyphs of Nasca, Peru

Hummingbird, Nazca

“Located in the arid Peruvian coastal plain, some 400 km south of Lima, the geoglyphs of Nasca and the pampas of Jumana cover about 450 km2 . These lines, which were scratched on the surface of the ground between 500 B.C. and A.D. 500, are among archaeology’s greatest enigmas because of their quantity, nature, size and continuity. The geoglyphs depict living creatures, stylized plants and imaginary beings, as well as geometric figures several kilometres long. They are believed to have had ritual astronomical functions.” – UNESCO

7. City of Cusco, Peru

Cusco at sunset

“Situated in the Peruvian Andes, Cuzco developed, under the Inca ruler Pachacutec, into a complex urban centre with distinct religious and administrative functions. It was surrounded by clearly delineated areas for agricultural, artisan and industrial production. When the Spaniards conquered it in the 16th century, they preserved the basic structure but built Baroque churches and palaces over the ruins of the Inca city.” – UNESCO

8. Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu, Peru

Sunrise, Machu Picchu

“Machu Picchu stands 2,430 m above sea-level, in the middle of a tropical mountain forest, in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. It was probably the most amazing urban creation of the Inca Empire at its height; its giant walls, terraces and ramps seem as if they have been cut naturally in the continuous rock escarpments. The natural setting, on the eastern slopes of the Andes, encompasses the upper Amazon basin with its rich diversity of flora and fauna.” – UNESCO

9. Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina

Onelli Glacier, Los Glaciares National Park

“The Los Glaciares National Park is an area of exceptional natural beauty, with rugged, towering mountains and numerous glacial lakes, including Lake Argentino, which is 160 km long. At its farthest end, three glaciers meet to dump their effluvia into the milky grey glacial water, launching massive igloo icebergs into the lake with thunderous splashes.” – UNESCO

RN40, better known as Ruta 40, is the longest route in Argentina. Construction began in 1935 and the road was initially designed as a connection between the few inhabited places in the strategically important border zone with Chile. At more than 5,000 km long, it takes its rightful place among the world’s other great roads – Canada’s Trans-Canada Highway, Australia’s Stuart Highway and The USA’s Route 66. It has stirred the imaginations of many including the outlaw Butch Cassidy and writer Bruce Chatwin. An Argentinian band even wrote a song about it.

The route largely follows the course of the ancestral Inca Trail, built by the Inca Empire to link their vast territories with their capital city of Cusco, in Peru. In Patagonia it follows the path of the ancient rastrilladas of the Tehuelche natives. Most of the road runs alongside and sometimes within the Andes Mountain range, passing through some of the most extraordinary landscapes on the planet and connecting 20 national parks. It crosses 236 rivers and features 27 Andean passes (including one at 5,000 m). The elevation varies from its lowest point at 39 m above the sea level by the lighthouse at Cabo Vírgenes, (Cape Virigns) in Santa Cruz, Patagonias to 3,460 m in the border town of La Quiaca, Jujuy. It crosses 11 provinces and passes through three provincial capitals -Mendoza, San Juan and Río Gallegos. It’s length spans almost 30 degrees of latitude, from 22° 45’S to the parallel of 52° – from the tropics to cold Patagonian glaciers. With its hairpin bends and endless straight sections buffeted by violent gusts across the deserted steppe, Ruta 40  is easily considered one of the world’s most epic rides.

Iglesia San Francisco, Salta

Cyclists taking part in TDA Global Cycling’s South American Epic Cycling Expedition will be delighted to discover that they will cover over 1100 km of this legendary road during the Expedition’s ‘Across the Andes‘ section that runs from Salta, Argentina to Santiago, Chile. In fact, the riders will re-join Ruta 40 over a month later in Patagonia for another 265 km!

>>Related Post: Cycling Patagonia: Everything You Need To Know

The ‘Across the Andes’ section begins in Salta, Argentina, known for its Spanish colonial architecture and Andean heritage. This city was originally on the Ruta 40 until a new road was built further west so now the riders will have to wait until the town of Cafayate, 200 km away, to start cycling on the official route. For the next 1100 km, until Mendoza, they will experience the history and sights of this fabled road.

The town of Cafayate is well known for the red rocks of the Quebrada de las Conchas and the Garganta del Diablo as well as local wineries like Finca Las Nubes which specializes in the Torrontés varietal. Heading south on Ruta 40 the landscape shifts from Triassic badlands to mountainsides striped with rocks of green, yellow, red, brown, purple, white and pink.

Quilmes

On the road to the small town of Santa Maria, a 5 km detour leads to the well-preserved pre-Colombian ruins at Quilmes (A. D. 1000).There are some great views to be had by climbing the surrounding hills but be aware that in addition to the hot sun, there is, according to Lonely Planet, ‘a large fly population keen on exploring your facial orifices.” The original indigenous inhabitants managed to co-exist with the Incas but in 1667 the Spanish deported the surviving members of the community to Buenos Aires, where a few descendants still remain. In fact, one of Argentina’s most famous beers, ‘Quilmes‘, is named after the area in Buenos Aires where the inhabitants were exiled to and where the company’s first brewery was established.

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After Santa Maria, the road weaves through the Valle Calchaquí, past dry riverbeds and scrubland with views of far-off, snow-covered mountains. Refreshments are available in the picturesque tiny village of Hualfin, surrounded by red rock walls. Approaching Belén, known as one of the best places to purchase a poncho, the scenery changes as the route enters the Quebrada del Complejo Termal, a red sandstone gorge formed through geothermal activity.

Ruins at El Shincal

Next up is the languid little town of Londres, named after its slightly more famous twin in Britain, founded in 1558 and the second oldest town in the country. It is a base for visiting the Inca ruins at El Shincal, once the capital of the Incan southern provinces. The setting is spectacular and the views are amazing. Be sure to bring your Spanish language skills as all information is in the local dialect.

Heading south, the route is spectacular, following a valley flanked on the west by the Sierra de Famatina range and to the east by the Sierra de Velasco. This is one of the highest areas of the Andes with some mountains reaching up to 6,000 m above sea level. Next up is the Wild West mining town of Chilecito. Dotted with cardon cacti, it is a good base for several attractions in the surroundings: old villages, rock formations and one of the world’s highest mountain railways which , unfortunately, has been recently shut down.

Sandstone rock formations, Talampaya

The road now bends to the west and heads to the city of Villa Union, beautifully situated amidst the intense red mountain ranges of the Sierra de Famatina and the Sierra de Maíz. On the way it passes through a spectacular gorge, the  Cuesta de Miranda. The city, which produces some delicacies like Vino Patero (foot-stepping wine) and dried fruits, is the perfect base for exploring Talampaya and Ischigualasto National Parks, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Talampaya is focused around an immense red sandstone canyon littered with surreal rock formations while Ischigualasto is dominated by a moonscape of greyish dust. Dotted around this aptly named Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) are petroglyphs and fossil sites.

Vineyard near Mendoza

Dry, hilly landscapes dominate the next stretch with the oasis town of San José de Jáchal providing a welcome break. The road passes through San Juan, the provincial capital and site of a 1944 earthquake that killed more than 10,000  people, and skirts the sand desert near Lavalle, the only desert or that kind in South America. Before long the famous vineyards of Mendoza begin to appear. Despite the fact that the area is technically a desert, sparkling irrigation ditches line the roads and burbling fountains adorn leafy plazas throughout the city.

At this point, the cyclists on the South American Epic, after raising a glass or two of Mendoza’s famous Malbec, will reluctantly leave the legendary Ruta 40 and head west, up over the Andes and into Chile, continuing their quest for Ushuaia and the southern tip of the continent.

Now that South American riders, Colombian Egan Bernal, has won the Tour de France and Richard Carapaz from Ecuador the Giro d’Italia, I think that there just might be a little more interest from cyclists wanting to ride through that wonderful continent. Since our company’s original South American trip in 2009, we have been proselytizing in blogs such 10 Reasons to Cycle South America from Top to Bottom and A Few More Excellent Reasons why you should cycle South America from Top to Bottom  and in many others about the magic that awaits you. Please allow me to mention just a few more reasons why you should consider joining us in 2020 on the next version of the South American Epic.

1. We really know South America

When it comes to cycling, we know South America like no one else. Our original South American tour took place in 2009 and since then we have spent a lot of time crisscrossing the continent, creating the most interesting cycling route possible, one that includes spectacular natural wonders, fascinating cultures and ancient civilizations.

2. We are the only organized cycling tour that does it, tip to tip, from Cartagena to Ushuaia

South America is a very big continent meaning that there are endless possibilities  on where to cycle and what route to take. Most cyclists, however, when they contemplate cycling South America think of the whole shebang, tip to tip, South to North or North to South. We like to do it north to south because it is all downhill (!) and because the weather patterns work better. We are the only company in the universe who organizes this demanding but rewarding tour.

3. We are the undisputed leaders in long distance cycling tours

We are the company that created the iconic Tour d’Afrique in 2003 and the legendary Silk Route in 2007. We have set the benchmark for long distance tours all over the world. We now have 17 tours with another one to be announced at the end of this month. We have received rave reviews from such distinguished media as the NY Times, Lonely Plant, Forbes and Outside magazine, amongst many others.

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4. After years of civil war in Colombia, we were the first cycling company to cross the country and the riders loved it

The South American Epic begins in the country that produced three top ten finishers in this year’s Tour de France and I am willing to bet that the era of South American cycling hegemony has started. Think of football/soccer and Brazil. I am also willing to suggest that if you cycle South America without cycling Colombia, it would be comparable to watching the FIFA world football championship without Brazil in it. Colombia is an amazing cycling country and one that you will never regret visiting.

>>RELATED POST – Is Colombia Safe For Cycling?

5. We rock Patagonia

Patagonia, like Colombia is one of a kind sort of place and these days more and more travellers are finding their way there. There may be other cycling tours in Patagonia but none crosses the area the way we do.  We pedal the entire mythic Carretera Austral, one of the world’s epic cycling routes. Then we cross from Chile into Argentina – an incredible day that includes two boat rides and a very long ride (or walk!) on single track. That effort brings you to one of the most remote border crossings on the continent, if not the world.

6. We have participants from all over the world

Participants who ride with us like to explore the world, but they also come from around the planet. On a typical tour, we have cyclists from at least several countries. The mix of cultures creates a fun and relaxed atmosphere and many riders go on to become friends for life.

7. We understand that long distance cyclists need good and nutritious food

We know how many calories it takes to cycle 120 km day after day. Our Operations Manager used to be on the Canadian National cycling team and among his many talents, he also happens to be a qualified chef. He understands what it takes to feed a cyclist who expands a lot of energy every day and we make sure he trains every one of our field chefs.

8. We take care of you and provide a sweep staff rider for security

Your safety is of primary importance to us. This means learning everything about the routes we cycle and making sure that there is a staff sweep rider who is in constant communication with the rest of the team, just in case of an emergency.

9. We have over 17 years of experience

Since our company was created in 2002, we have operated long distance tours in more than 80 countries. The cumulative distance our riders have covered would bring us to the moon and back several times over. This means that over the years we have gained a significant amount of expertise and have learned to deal with just about any problem that comes our way. Our core company team has not changed for over a decade and has the experience to solve problems wherever and whenever they occur. In fact, some participants, having seen the challenges and the way we have dealt with them, have suggested that we are actually a logistics and problem-solving company that happens to run long distance cycling tours.

“It is mentally, physically, and emotionally challenging. But you get to see more of each country than the average tourist.” – Rebecca Nation (USA)

“This adventure was the most remarkable experience of my life.” – Tom Bell (Canada)

“Support was excellent. Crew was outstanding. They worked incredibly long hard hours and never displayed anything but good humour and friendly attitudes to the riders. The dinners were terrific- both nutritious and tasty. The conception was brilliant and delivery nonpareil.” – Jim Boggeman (USA)

“This is a tour where you are going to experience every conceivable bike riding condition. Smooth paved roads, check. River bed like pounding, check. Fifteen kilometre climbs in assorted gravel and paved conditions, check. Fifteen kilometres descents in assorted gravel and paved conditions, check. Constantly rolling terrain with fifteen percent plus grades, check. Front, side and back winds from 5 to 70 plus k, check. Sunshine and rain, check. Riding alone, check. Riding in a group, check. New friends and learning about different countries, cultures and thoughts, absolutely checked.” – Dan Squires (USA)

RELATED
TOUR

South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

“This tour was as advertised. Challenging, both mentally and physically.” – Barb Sweeney (Canada)

“A great experience and I’m glad I did it!” – Nola Reynolds (Canada)

“The tour was a remarkable experience. With the logistical support of TdA, and the personal support of the crew and other riders, I was able to complete a bike ride that I had dreamed of for years. I am exceptionally grateful.” – Kent Kirshenbaum (USA)

“I would describe this trip as totally awesome on so many levels…Mind you this was the toughest tour I have ever been on, both physically and mentally. And now that I’m home I wouldn’t trade one minute of it. Pretty sure that I will be cherishing these moments for quite some time.” – Lloyd Strong (Canada)

“I was worried about joining the tour midway and for just 1 section, but the staff and other riders welcomed me and included me as if I had been there the entire time. It was difficult to leave after my section. The food was great and the accommodations were as advertised. It was great to ride at my own pace- hard if I wanted a good workout and more leisurely when I wanted to see the area more- very flexible. Tour leaders provided info for area sites etc. It was a great trip; I can’t wait to do another section.” – Wayne Brown (USA)

Read what 2015 South American Epics riders had to say about their experience.

The North American Epic and the South American Epic are our two longest tours – North America covering the most kilometres (14,515) and South America for the number of days (167). With the North American Epic now sold out and registrations starting to accumulate for next summer’s South American Epic, we thought it was a good time to point out of few of our best blogs about cycling the vast South American continent from top to tip.

1. Is Colombia Safe for Cycling?

Our most recent blog addressed a common question that people ask about countries like Colombia. Read the full blog here.

RELATED
TOUR

South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

2. Exploring Machu Picchu on the South American Epic

“This ancient part-time residence of the Incan leader Pachacuti was built and populated in the 15th century, before being abandoned sometime after Pachacuti’s death in 1472. The site remained unknown to the outside world for hundreds of years, with only local animal herders and wanderers knowing it existed. Only in the early 20th century did the incredible beauty of its location and structures gain fame, after an American historian, who mistook it for the ‘Lost City of the Incas’, found his way to Machu Picchu, Quechua for ‘Old Peak’.” Continue reading…

3. Cycling the Bolivian Salt Flats

For solo and group cycle tourists alike, the Uyuni Salt Flats have become a must on any South American cycling odyssey. This blog breaks down our route from La Paz and on through the immense Salt Flats. Read the blog here.

4. Wine and Dine Like an Argentine

After pedalling the gruelling Salt Flats on the Bolivian Plateau, Argentina can feel almost idyllic, as this blog explains. Read the full blog here.

5. Just another day on the South American Epic

The title of this blog is a bit tongue in cheek. While in Chile on the 2015 South American Epic, TDA Founder Henry Gold explained the unexpected and implausible that does sometimes occur on our tours, keeping the ship upright and pointed towards Ushuaia. Read the blog here.

6. The Lake District: A Welcome Dose of Pleasant

As the challenges and frustrations ebb and flow over the course of a half year of cycling South America, there are moments and sections that are a pleasant reprieve from hard days and harsh climates. Read about one such place in this blog.

7. Cycling Patagonia: Everything you need to know

This go-to resource piece is one of our most read blogs of all time – for good reason. It’s packed with useful insight for any touring cyclist – solo or in a group – who is heading to Patagonia. Read all the details here.

8. 10 Reasons to Cycle South America from Top to Bottom

This is a lighter post highlighting some of our favourite parts of South America that will hopefully inspire you to head there yourself. Read all 10 here.

9. A Few More Excellent Reasons Why You Should Cycling South America

OK, so we got carried away and gave you a few more reasons. Read and enjoy.

10. Cycling South America: 8 Epic Climbs and Descents

If there is one geographic feature that symbolizes South America, it is undoubtedly the Andes Mountain Range. Read about our favourite rides in the mountains of South America.

The word epic is so overused these days that it has begun to lose its meaning. So what do you do when your company creates a bicycle expedition like no other in the world? A tour that covers 13,405 km (8,330 miles), is almost half a year long (167 days to be exact), and goes through six countries from the top of South America all the way to the bottom?

Well, you can create a video that tries to convey the scope of the tour. Unfortunately, in today’s world, our attention spans are minuscule – a word which just happens to be the antonym of ‘epic’. And so you are left with only about 90 seconds before losing the viewer’s attention – assuming that you don’t have any cats or dogs in the video.

With those instructions, our intrepid office video makers Micah and Shanny came up with this. So, without further ado, I present to you the 2020 South American Epic.

One last comment – rumour has it that one of the best remedies to a short attention span is to go on a very long bicycle tour!

RELATED
TOUR

South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

After inquiring with our Operations Manager, our South American Epic tour leader, the Ambassador for Colombia in Canada, and a Colombia based cyclist/filmmaker the answer to the question is an enthusiastic YES!, followed by a more measured but it will be tough. That is about the simplest way to sum up cycling in Colombia. But let me elaborate a bit.

You have likely heard of world class cyclists like Nairo Quintana, and you might have seen a video or read some stories of people cycling through Colombia – either  solo or on organized tours (such as our South American Epic) but what is it really like as a cyclist? Is the traffic terrible? Are you going to be kidnapped or robbed by drug cartels or FARC rebels?

>>Learn more about cycling through Colombia on the South American Epic

I have been fortunate enough to ride my bike in many places. Cycle touring through Romania, Ethiopia, Bolivia, Kyrgyzstan and beyond has taught me that very few places are what you expect them to be. I have travelled to Colombia but never on a bike, so I thought I’d ask around and get some further insight about cycling in Colombia by people who really know. I am sure many of you would love to hear what they have to say about cycling in Colombia.

Colombia is Stable and Secure Says Ambassador Federico Hoyos

Through the friendly Colombia Tourism team at ProColombia here in Canada I was able to pose a few questions to the Colombian Ambassador to Canada, the Honourable Federico Hoyos. He says that “21st century Colombia is a young and vibrant country.” More in his words…

Tourism in Colombia is steadily increasing year after year, due to a change of image and outside perception of our country. Colombia is an innovative and modern place…added to the fact of stability and security.

Colombia is very well-known for having some of the best cyclists in the world like Rigoberto Urán, Cochise Rodriguez and Nairo Quintana! Due to our beautiful topography, to our mountains, to our very steep slopes, Colombia is a great country for cyclists worldwide. It is going to be tough, it’s going to be exciting, but it is also going to be beautiful because you’re going to see everything: you can see the mountains,the beaches… deserts… in one single country.

Besides, you will sense the warmth of our people who will welcome you with open arms, and you will also get a taste of our food along our roads, which changes from one region to another. And we have great weather too, all year long. It is nice, warm and stable, which of course also contributes to making Colombia a great cycling destination.

Thank you to Mr. Hoyos for taking time out of what is surely a busy schedule to help us with this article.

Colombia is Full of Cycling Enthusiasts says Miles MacDonald

Miles, TDA Global Cycling’s much respected Operations Manager and experienced world traveler, agrees with the ambassador and shares some helpful safety tips.

In Colombia, drivers are both used to cyclists, and also tend to go out of their way to give cyclists their deserved space on the road, and that is a great advantage for safe cycling.

From TDA’s experience bringing groups of cyclists to Colombia, and information from local Colombian sources, the security situation on the ground is stable in the vast majority of regions of the country. So it’s good to do some research when planning a route in Colombia. It’s also good to stick to a few good practices that are best followed anywhere in the world.

Miles’ Tips for Cyclists on Staying Safe in Colombia

• Keep your cycling to daylight hours
• Ideally cycle with a friend
• Know where you are going, and read up on the area and roads you’ll be cycling and place where you’ll be sleeping.
• Be wary of crimes of opportunity (such as bike theft from leaving your bike unattended or unlocked)
• Be defensive minded towards traffic
• Be cautious around dogs along the road
• If something doesn’t feel right, trust your instincts

You Have to Surrender Yourself to Colombia Says Gregg Bleakney

Gregg cycled the Americas (North and South!) in 2006 and planted roots in Colombia where he runs his film production company, WhereNext. As he says “Colombia is the holy grail of both storytelling and travel.” His most recent project is The Birders – in search of rare endemic birds of Colombia. He also created this video for us: Why cycle South America – all shot in Colombia.

Just over a decade ago, most of Colombia’s spectacular landscapes were completely off limits to road tripping in a car, and unthinkable on a bicycle. It’s so great to see the guys in our office, most of whom are cyclists, planning and plotting multi-day routes during their lunch break. Most of the time they are traveling on roads that have never been mapped on Strava. It’s truly a period of discovery.

Nothing in Colombia is easy. It’s a place where joy on two wheels is commonplace–but you’ve got to work for it. The more you surrender yourself to Colombia, the more the country will tow you in its wake of joy. My advice is to be like my adopted Colombian street dog, sniff around, talk to strangers, get carnal. Use your time in Colombia to indulge your curiosity.

Cristiano Shares Some Words of Caution About This Friendly Nation

Having been the tour leader for our various tours in South America over the last decade and having cycled throughout South America himself, who better to finish this off than someone with on-the-ground experience.

More and more international cyclists have been visiting Colombia, whether touring, racing or just attracted by world famous climbs like Paso Letras, which we take on the [South American Epic]

As long as you know where you are going [and avoid known narco guerilla areas] I consider it pretty safe. Having said that, in 2022 there are presidential elections and things could eventually take some kind of a U-turn, [or] improve even more. In my opinion, if you want to cycle in Colombia, now is a great time to do so.

There was a slogan from the government a few years ago that said: ‘Colombia, the only risk is wanting to stay’… the main risk of cycling in Colombia is the same as cycling on any shared road anywhere in the world, motorized vehicles. Also, the ups and downs can be really long and really steep, so it is easy to gain a lot of speed on the downhills.

There is no other country in Latin America with anywhere near the amount of cyclists as in Colombia. I’m not talking only commuters and rural cyclists, I’m talking also about athletes. So in general drivers know how to behave when there are cyclists on the road, when they are not cyclists themselves.

People are extremely friendly! I do not remember one aggressive encounter there ever! People are always smiling. If travelling alone, you will always be invited into people’s houses etc.

>>Read Cristiano’s blog ‘Colombia’s Crazy Cycling Culture’

My Final Thoughts on our Travel Misconceptions

So in conclusion, yes it is safe. And yes, there is many a hill to climb in Colombia. That is the one point everyone – including the Ambassador – all agreed on, so make sure you do some training.

When we haven’t been somewhere ourselves, we have no choice but to base our impressions of a place on a small fraction of reality, and a large amount of assumption. So check yourself and make sure it’s real risk and not just fear holding you back. This is certainly not the first time we’ve written on these topics of perception and risk.

That’s not to say there aren’t risks – there are. You need to educate yourself, and be cautious and clear eyed about any travel to a new place where cultures and customs are different than what you are used to. Use some of Miles’ tips above and once you have done that, take it all in. Pedal hard. Breathe deeply as you experience all that Colombia has to offer.

>>Read more about Colombia: Countless Reasons to Cycle Colombia Now

RELATED
TOUR

South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Almost a month ago, the 2017 South American Epic came to a successful conclusion as the 10 full tour riders pedalled into Ushuaia, Argentina becoming the second group of TDA Global Cycling participants (here was the first) to complete the 13,525km ride that began 5 1/2 months earlier in Cartagena, Colombia.

It’s the end of the world as we know it, and I feel fine! #southamericanepic #biketouring #findelmundo #argentina

A post shared by Rebecca Nation (@rebeccahoop) on Dec 22, 2017 at 6:52am PST

Communications Officer Jacob Warner summed up their arrival.

“The northern part of the island of Tierra del Fuego is barren and windswept. A tough, inhospitable landscape at the end of the world. Reaching the island requires a two hour ferry journey from Punta Arenas in mainland Chile. It is the last big hurdle before reaching the well ridden path to Ushuaia – the most southern city in the world. Riding closer to Ushuaia, the landscape becomes more familiar, more scenic. There are lakes, forests, and mountains begin to emerge again. Almost like a reward for completing this epic journey. The island of Tierra del Fuego is apparently not entirely a windswept desert.

This contrast summarizes so much of the South American Epic, where dramatic differences in landscape and climate are side by side, and often change within the same day. Another example being the shift from Chilean Patagonia with its green forests, blue rivers, and snow capped mountains, to the more arid Argentinian side – empty and windswept. The Carretera Austral section that leads us in to Ushuaia has possibly been the most dramatic, rivalled perhaps only by Colombia and Ecuador in terms of the breathtaking landscapes to ride through.

The Carretera Austral itself is something to be seen – a gravel road winding through idyllic farmland flanked by beautiful snow covered mountains, pristine lakes and rivers. It very much feels like an untouched paradise waiting to be explored on two-wheels. Multiple ferries help bridge the bigger gaps – a welcome rest on tough dirt sections, and an opportunity to appreciate some of the beautiful surroundings.

As the South American Epic riders rolled into Ushuaia, it was hard to process the entire tour as so much has changed. Being on the road for over 5 months is an impressive feat in itself. Cycling the length of a continent from top to bottom is tough on it’s own but throw the Andes mountains in the middle and that makes it even tougher. That first day in Cartagena seems like a long, long time ago…”

And from the front… 14 adventurous riders begin the #southamericanepic journey through #colombia and beyond… #Cycletouring #fromwhereiride #roadslikethese #bikepacking #cyclingphotos #bikestagram #wymtm #igtravels #colombiatravel

A post shared by TDA Global Cycling (@tdacycling) on Jul 9, 2017 at 6:01am PDT

Chile has really been a breath of fresh air on the South American Epic, both figuratively and literally. The lush green forests, and crisp cool air of the Lake District section has been a big change from the more arid and dusty regions of Bolivia and Argentina that we have been used to recently. It feels like we are riding through the Pacific Northwest, rather than a far flung corner of South America. We now see lumber yards, logging trucks, wood cabins, fishing boats, and idyllic farms. There is something more homely about these surroundings. Probably because the climate is more familiar to the regions of the Northern Hemisphere that most riders originate from.

The one big difference has been the sheer amount of volcanoes dominating the landscape. Punctuating many riding days and being visible for many kilometres. Beneath the tranquil setting of sleepy coastal fishing towns and lakeside villages, there are hints to the more unforgiving nature of this beautiful part of the world. Along the Pacific Coast there are frequent signs indicating evacuation routes in case of a Tsunami – a reminder of the instability that lies beneath the ground and even out in to the ocean. Similarly inland, many towns and villages are routinely on alert for volcano activity – a somewhat foreboding presence.

However, day to day you would hardly notice or consider these dangers. The sheer beauty of southern Chile is really something special. Although there is always a challenge on the bicycle. The valleys between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean are a rollercoaster of steep ups and downs. Fun at first, but tiring after a long day, and especially on gravel sections, which make riding more strenuous. These are small obstacles to overcome, especially when thinking back to the big plus 2000 meter climbing days in Colombia.

Arriving in the gateway city of Puerto Montt allows a couple of days respite before the last big push to Ushuaia of 22 riding days. With multiple ferry crossings, inclement weather, and cooler temperatures highly likely. The Carretera Austral and Patagonia itself are on many riders list of highlights for the tour, so any adversity comes with the territory of experiencing this unique and remote part of the world.

“I can’t see any snow from here, it’s probably fine!” one of the South American Epic riders says whilst looking towards the Andes mountain range in Argentina. The reason for their speculation is that we have heard that there is heavy snow on the Chilean side of the mountain range and that the border between the two nations is about to be closed for several days, effectively leaving us stranded in Argentina. The decision is made to bus the riders immediately across to Chile before the border closes, a tough but necessary decision.

The drive up to the border is long and beautiful, but everything looks calm – “tranquilo” as they would say here. There is no snow on the ground. But soon, everything changes. Close to the summit of the pass, the snow begins to emerge. Small patches here and there. Then after passing through a long tunnel – BOOM! It is now a blizzard with snow cascading diagonally across the road. Cars and trucks are slipping on the road. Out of the chaos slowly emerges a sign “Bienvenidos a Chile”. Who is building a border crossing here we wonder?

The border itself looks like the remote arctic research station from The Thing – there are radar dishes, snow plows and lots of other curious looking structures. Inside it is the usual border crossing madness – stamp here – go to this window – fill out this form – stamp here – scan this, etc.. After the long and rigorous process ends, the light is beginning to fade on top of the mountain – the blizzard has gone, and the stunning mountains of the Andes are now clearly visible. We drive down the Chilean side – happy to be through the crazy weather.

We pass a road block heading in the other direction – the border has been closed to all traffic. We had managed to slip through at the last minute – before the worst of the storm hit. The next day all the locals are astonished that we made it through – telling us that the pass is now closed for days. Sometimes you need a bit of luck and good planning.

Luckily for the riders, they still got to ride in to the Chilean capital of Santiago for a well-deserved double rest day. It already feels a far cry from Salta in Argentina where we started this section. Riding through the vineyards of Argentina was certainly a big change from the tough and remote section at altitude through Bolivia. The scenery has still remained a constant highlight – with some beautiful red rock formations, canyons, and otherworldly looking geology. Even though it shares similarities with things we have seen in Peru and Bolivia, it is still distinct and very unique. When you think you’ve seen it all, South America keeps throwing up something new.

Salta, Argentina. Now we can breathe again…

It is a strange feeling returning to the more forgiving altitude of 1,152 meters in the northern Argentine city. Each lung-full of air feels easier, everyone has more energy, there is moisture in the air, walking upstairs is no longer a struggle. To go on about how happy the South American Epic riders and staff are to reach a lower altitude would do a great disservice to the Cycling the Salt Flats section that we just completed. Easily one of the most challenging and spectacular of the trip so far and a distant change from the jungles of Colombia and Ecuador. The high altitude Bolivian plateau is something other-worldly. From the seemingly impossible capital city of La Paz, and the neighbouring sprawl of El Alto at over 4,000 meters, to the beautiful tree lined streets of Salta in Argentina, it was an epic ride through deserts, riverbeds, and salt flats.

Even though riding through the legendary Uyuni Salt Flats only takes up two stages of this section, the anticipation can be felt immediately leaving La Paz. Glimpses of flat salty plains of dried out lakes gives a taster of what is to come. But nothing can match the first glimpse of pure vast whiteness as far as the eye can see, or the crunching sound of riding across thick slabs of salt. Tourists pose for famous perspective photos, and vehicles race across the flats in any direction they please. Cyclists can be seen for kilometres in the distance – tiny little dots on the horizon slowly growing bigger. The vastness of the Uyuni Salt Flats is really incomparable and without any reference points it feels like being lost in an ocean of salt. Luckily for the riders, the wind was mercifully calm, which made riding across the salt even more enjoyable, and truly an unforgettable experience.

Shortly after departing the tourist town of Uyuni itself, the riders crossed into Argentina – sad to say goodbye to Bolivia but happy for more familiar comforts and conditions that await. Now in country number five of the tour and over half-way through, it feels like we are gaining momentum towards the vastness of Patagonia. The legendary wine and beef of Argentina are high on many riders lists of things to experience as we work our way south towards Santiago in Chile

Camping on the shores of Lake Titicaca is a strange experience. Not only is it unusual to see such a large body of water in South America, it is also hard to comprehend that it sits 3,800 meters above sea level. Or to put it another way – 1000 meters higher than the tallest climb of the Tour de France. Riding a bicycle at altitude is a strange experience. The air is thinner, drier, and the sun seems more intense, even though the shade is freezing cold. Moments of weakness and confusion are frequent but pass quickly. Breathing is deeper and more deliberate. The smallest climb can ruin the fittest of rider. Acclimatisation is slow, and it never really feels like your body has adjusted to the lack of oxygen – it is just tolerating it.

However it has not been all doom and gloom riding at altitude on the Inca Highlands section. This is the Andes mountains after all – home to some of the most spectacular and unique scenery in the world. After visiting Machu Picchu close to the Inca city of Cusco, riders cycled through the sacred valley towards Puno and the aforementioned high altitude Lake Titicaca. After crossing into Bolivia it was a short ride to the city of La Paz – famous for being the highest altitude capital in the world. It seems in our short time here that Bolivia thinks of itself in superlatives: highest capital city, largest salt flat, driest desert, highest lake, and so on. So far we have only seen a small part of the country, but it has been spectacular, colourful and rugged.

A double rest day in La Paz is a symbolic milestone on the South American Epic, it is here that we reach the half way mark of the tour – 64 Stages – three times the length of the Tour de France (this seems to be a useful comparison point in this week’s blog). Looking back we remember the jungles of Colombia and Ecuador; looking forward we see the rugged scenery of Chile, Argentina, and the legendary region of Patagonia. But first the riders will experience the Uyuni Salt Flats, one of the most famous tourist attractions in South America, and the infamous Bolivian winds that accompany it!

We welcomed five new riders for this section. They were nervous and anxious to start this journey. The ride out of Lima was hectic as assumed. We rode along the Pan American highway for a while then turned off onto a smaller road that followed the coast line and went through small surf towns. The homes and villages were much more affluent south of Lima. Our first camp was in a small fishing town in a small hostel. The newbies really lucked out for their first day! We continued riding along the highway jumping from beach town to beach town, each camp was very relaxing and felt like a vacation.

Our first rest day was in Nazca, a small tourist town known for the Nazca lines, artfully drawn lines in the desert that has been around for centuries. After resting for a day, we started to climb! Leaving Nazca around 400m we climbed into the mountains to over 3300m. It was a long day to our bush camp, which happened to be the first legit bush camp for the trip! The next day we rode into Puquio, a bustling rural town where we spent a full day to acclimatize.

Our next ride day climbed to the highest elevation we have experienced on this trip, 4500m. Once everyone arrived into the alpine lake camp, a squall of a storm rolled through and covered us with hail and the temperatures plummeted. Sadly, we endured out coldest temps overnight and our coldest morning of sub freezing temperatures and frosted tents. We continued up and down the mountains for 4 days into Cusco. We enjoyed stunning views of the Peruvian Andes and llamas everywhere. We cycled down into valleys riding along rivers and cycling back up into the mountains. By time we arrived in Cusco, everyone was ecstatic for our longest rest period of three days!

It was a challenging section with stunning views.

– Rebecca Nation, Full Tour Rider, 2017 South American Epic

As you might know, we have a club on Strava open to anyone interested in global cycling routes. On any given day you can see leaderboards full of big rides happening on various continents around the world. Here are 6 segments that have been hotly contested by our cyclists on our tours. This is just a small sampling, as we have over 100,000 km of cycling routes in more than 80 countries around the globe.

>>Take a look at our Strava Club (open to all)

Transfăgărășan Highway on the Orient Express

This stunning switchback climb looks daunting from the bottom but is engineered to be a gentle grade most of the way up. And you are rewarded with spectacular views from the top so cyclists from our tours can be forgiven if their times don’t rank near the top 10 of a route popular with most cyclists in the region.

Along the Konkan Coast on the Hippie Trail

Some assume that because this section of our Hippie Trail tour is along the coast that it will be flat – far from it. This Strava segment is a good example of the many short steep climbs along the beautiful coast alongside the Arabian Sea as the road dives down towards the water and then turn up again into the hills above.

The Gorge on the Tour d’Afrique

This is a legendary climb on a legendary tour. So prominent are these 18 km that the entire 15 day section is named after it. And note that Mark Beaumont also ranks in the top 5 – not even the man who just cycled the world in 80 days could match some of our riders!

Akbaital Pass on the Silk Route

This grueling 6.6 km segment tops out at 4,661m elevation. It’s deep in the heart of the Pamir Mountains on the way to the outpost of Murghab on the Pamir Highway section of our cycling tour. This route has been traversed by group and solo cyclists alike for many years, but the altitude, remoteness, and lack of supplies means it requires a lot of planning in advance.

Crown Range Summit at the end of Trans-Oceania

There is no easy finish on the way into Queenstown – the final stop on the Trans-Oceania. The last day includes one final climb up to the Crown Range Summit before they get to relax after their mammoth 4 month cycle journey across Australia and New Zealand. Luckily, the riders are rewarded with an exciting 11km switchback descent. Our cyclists are among over 1600 that have attempted this popular segment.

Andes Ascent on the Way to Cuzco on the South American Epic

Between Nazca to Cuzco the cyclists climb alot! They ride high up into the Andes and don’t come down again for quite some time. This segment is one of many tough climbs, and with each pedal stroke high the altitude affects everyone more, the temperatures begin to drop and road conditions deteriorate – pure pleasure, right?

>>Join TDA Global Cycling’s Strava Club (open to all)

What Did we Miss?

Members of our Strava Club as well as many of our former riders have completed segments all over the globe, so we would love to hear what those favourites are, and which ones deserve to be added to this list above. These don’t have to be on the route of our tours – any route anywhere in the world that you love.

Leave us a comment below and tell us your favourite segment…

The rapidly changing landscapes, scenery, and environments of the South American Epic can be best summarized by the day before the Peruvian capital of Lima. The Panamericana highway in northern Peru snakes through beautiful sand dunes, and arid mountain ranges. It is windy, dry, and nothing grows there for as far as the eye can see. Turning of the highway we ride up a gravel dirt track into some mist – directly into the sandy abyss. Slowly, small specks of green start to appear on the ground, tiny little signs of life. As the mist thickens, the amount of green increases. The air is wet, and the signs of the desert begin to fade. Turning a corner, there is an explosion of life – trees, bushes, ferns, flowers, and wildlife. From a seemingly empty and inhospitable desert emerges an oasis of plant and animal life. This is the Lomas de Lachay National Reserve a eco-system fed by mist rolling in from the Pacific Ocean and condensing in the foothills of the Andes mountains. The combination of mist and humidity creates a unique climate in a dry desert for life to emerge and a stark change from the inhospitable terrain surrounding it.

photo credit: Don Colpitts on Instagram (@dcolpitts)

This is an unique example of how quickly and extreme the changes are on the South American Epic. The stretch from Quito to Lima is full of contrasts. Starting at high elevation in the Andes, we rode through the edge of the Amazon rainforest in hot and humid climates, then emerged into the dry landscapes of northern Peru and arrived in Lima on the Pacific Ocean. The range of temperatures, weather, and ecosystems feels like it is always changing. The one constant is the warm welcome of the Latin American people. Always curious, yet understanding of a dozen riders cycling through their country. The transition from Ecuador to Peru was seamless – even though Peru is less wealthy than its neighbour to the north, the people are just as friendly. The biggest change is suddenly seeing dozens of tuk-tuks whizzing alongside us on the roads!

Peru itself is a country of vastly differing environments and cultures. Many of which we have yet to experience, but will do soon as we ride for Nazca and it’s famous lines, then back into the mountains towards the Inca city of Cusco – the stepping stone to the legendary Machu Picchu. Riders have had a break from the big climbs in Colombia and Ecuador, but this is only a brief respite as we begin ascending to higher altitudes towards Bolivia. The double rest day in Lima is a good chance for riders to rest their legs after completing over a third of the stages of the tour so far!

My partner in life Ruth lost her mother last week after a long illness. As is traditional in our neck of the woods, people come to spend a few minutes or hours with the mourner. Among the conversations I heard was a new English word, Acatalepsy – a state of being impossible to conceive or to understand.

The word of course spoke to me right away because when most people hear about what TDA does and its scope  (and I am sure those who have cycled one of TDA 7 Epics have had the same reactions) their audience all suffers from Acatalepsy. But the word also speaks to me because often as I cycle I have acatalepsy – I often see or think of things that initially are impossible to conceive or to understand.

Of course, I am not the only one. I imagine each and every one that participates in one of our tours goes through these thoughts. Just take a look at one participant Guillaume Blanchet who joined the South America Epic tour in 2015 in La Paz, Bolivia. Being a very talented fellow he produced this wonderfully quirky video called – Unboliviable. Anyone watching this who has not done one of our tours, has yet to experience Acatalepsy and will have a difficult time understanding why we take on these wonderful journeys. But the video manages to answer this question well and ends with the most important message why we do these trips.

UNBOLIVIABLE from Guillaume Blanchet I Filmmaker on Vimeo.

As the man behind the video says the main attraction is ‘la liberte’. Remember the word? It was made famous a couple of centuries ago as in ‘liberte, egalite, fraternite’. This motto applies not only to the French revolution but also to our tours. We are free, equal, and we sure fraternize. There is no doubt that once you join one of our tours you become part of the family, a brotherhood of seekers, adventures, restless souls – in fact a brotherhood of ‘Acataleptics’ – one that is, to many, impossible to understand. But if you want to comprehend the concept, then you should consider joining one of our trips.

“Ecuador, Ecuador, Ecuador!” Says the Colombian border crossing official as I inform him that, yes, I intend to cross into Ecuador. Perhaps he has had too much time of hearing about Ecuador everyday, or maybe he is mocking me stating the only option available. Either way, the Colombia / Ecuador border crossing on the South American Epic was a smooth affair. Unlike many border crossings on TDA tours, where the culture and landscape immediately changes, this transition is almost invisible. The mountainous Andean terrain and latin culture remained almost exactly the same. The biggest difference we have noticed is the use of the US Dollar as currency in Ecuador!

Our journey from Bogota to Quito has taken us through the blazing hot Tatacoa desert in central Colombia, through the remote Purace national park in the south, and down into more indigenous regions of northern Ecuador. We have seen a lot of climbing, to the extent that 2,000+ meter days are no longer a surprise and come to be expected. Days begin freezing cold, but end scorching hot as we reach lower elevations – or vice versa – the temperature changes are constant and severe. Fortunately for us we have been met with warm hospitality everywhere we go. Whether it’s having a ‘tinto’ at the side of the road, or a warm bowl of soup at the end of a long riding day, the Colombians have certainly treated us well!

It is not every day that you get to cross the equator on a bicycle, but the day riding into Quito, the South American Epic riders got to do just that. We stopped by the Quitsato Sundial and heard about why Ecuador has advantage over all the other equator straddling nations in the world – mountains. Apparently Ecuador’s mountainous terrain allows for unique readings and observations of the sun as it rises and sets at different times of the year. Other equator countries, such as Brazil, Congo, or Kenya are either too flat or overgrown with jungle to make accurate readings from the sun. At different times of the year at the Quitsato Sundial, the sun will rise and fall over specific points on the mountain range. At which there have been discovered thousand year old monuments to the sun. Clearly the movement of the sun has been closely watched in Ecuador for a very long time, and they take pride in their place at ‘The Middle of the World’.

Now the South American Epic is truly in the Southern Hemisphere, and from the vantage point of 0° Latitude, Ushuaia still seems a very long way down!