Tom Perlmutter recently completed the 2025 Silk Route Cycling Expedition. He looks back at his previous trans-continental experience on the 2024 South American Epic Cycling Expedition.

Rainy day crossing the Cauca River, Colombia

It was downhill to Ushuaia at the southern tip of South America, gateway to Antarctica and the final destination of our near six-month cycling odyssey down the length of the continent up and down its Andean ribcage. It had rained the night before, our last one camping, but by then we were used to the elements from the raging heat of the Colombian lowlands to the chilly blasts of the Bolivian Altiplano, the world’s most extensive high plateau (averaging about 4,000 meters) outside of Tibet. We were weatherbeaten, blistered and aching in parts of the body we hardly knew existed and utterly exhilarated.

A year has passed since that day that capped our incredible adventure. Great undertakings do not end at their outward conclusion; they send out ripples that undulate through our lives, sometimes overtly, more often unconsciously. An inner bell tolls that reminds us that ‘this we have done.’ There is an affirmation that strengthens us in whatever else we do.

I took the opportunity of this first anniversary to speak to a number of my fellow riders to share stories and see what that trek has meant for them.

Mike Crum

Mike C. is a bluff teddy bear of a man in his early sixties, an organic kiwi fruit farmer from New Zealand, always ready with a smile and an encouraging word. He spoke about doing the trip to push boundaries, physical and mental. He had, perhaps, more of a challenge than most of us. It was only four weeks before we set off from Cartagena that he got the medical okay to go ahead with the trip. He was in recovery from a mini-stroke.

As he flew by me on that final day I smiled thinking of what I had learned from him. He had embarked on his cycling adventures in a change period of his life. He was moving into retirement with a burning desire to expand his horizons. South America gave him that. “I was getting a view about life; it opened up possibilities.” I knew he was right.

Mark K. at 27 was the youngest of our riders. An Egyptian he divides his time between the family home in Cairo and his work and studies in San Francisco (he is a graduate student in engineering at Stanford). Mark is a questioner probing at himself and his environment. His face is often stamped with a quizzical expression which just as often gives way to a broad grin as one struck by a sudden moment of enlightenment. His most distinctive feature is his shock of curly black hair, as if he’s just poked his finger into a light socket.

>>Related Post: South American Epic Cycling Expedition Documentary Film Screening In Toronto

Tom and Mark, Paracas, Pacific coast, Peru

Mark was new to long-distance cycling. The longest he’d ridden before was 90 kms and never on an overnight trip. He thinks about what South America meant; it fills him with gratitude. “It made me more resilient,” he says. “I developed an endurance muscle” for all walks of his life. Because of South America, he says, “I can have big goals and see how to do it.”

At the other end of the spectrum is Marie-Josée V. (M-J as we all called her). In her early sixties she is trim, hardy and perennially buoyant. She is an athlete with significant accomplishments under her belt: five major summits of 5,500+ meters including Kilimanjaro (highest mountain in Africa at 5,895 m) and Aconcagua (highest mountain in the Americas at 6,967 m); skiing to the North Pole with an all women team; and quite a few cycling expeditions. Even so she was apprehensive because she had never done such a long trek. She thought it might be hard to go day after day, month after month. She surprised herself. “It was all so beautiful. I was in better shape than I thought. No matter how hard a day was, how tired I was coming into camp, the next morning I was ready to go. I never wanted to take a day off.”

M-J

Diversity was a word that kept cropping up. The sheer variety of landscapes, cultures and people astonished and delighted us all.

Ellen L. is a sturdy, fearless GP whose no-nonsense attitude is belied by her great warmth and a remarkable openness to the world about her. Dutch born and bred she has worked most of her life in Cornwall, England. Her daily regime involves cycling 50 kms to work and back on the steep Cornish hills regardless of weather conditions. She has backpacked across the Caucuses on her own and cycled in various parts of the world, again often on her own.

Ellen

The challenges of long hard days and some extreme conditions were dwarfed by the great exuberance of South American life. The diversity, to her was astounding: the lush tropical conditions of Colombia; the stark beauty of the Tatocoa desert; the immensity of the Bolivian Salt Flats, the tempting vineyards of Argentina, the exquisite beauty of Patagonia and on it went. At every turn there was a gasp-inducing moment of amazement.

Tom in Tatacoa, Colombia

For Paul L., an experienced cyclist from British Columbia, on his first extended tour and his first group tour, the wide range of cultures and people spoke to him as someone whose work as an arbitrator, often with First Nations, developed in him a cultural sensitivity.

Paul

On our rest day in Bogota, cycling in with hundreds of locals on car-free Ciclovía day, we mingled in the main square with a joyous crowd clad in yellow t-shirts in honour of the Colombian national soccer team who were about to face off Argentina in the final game of the Copa América. It was only the third time in the 48 years of the Copa that Colombia had made it to the finals. Even a heart-rending 1-0 loss in overtime could not dampen the enthusiasm and generosity of the people who embraced our participation in their festivity.

Ciclovia in Bogota

In the high Andes of Bolivia we learned to respect the aversion of locals, the bowler hatted women and juyuna (poncho) sporting men, to cameras. A short, stout shepherd had come to talk to us, curious about these lycra-wrapped tourists on bikes. The exchange was warm and reciprocal until one of our group asked if she could take a photo of him. The very mention of a photograph sent him flying off like greased lightning. It was clear that they had had too many encounters in the past where the question was only a prelude to the act. We kept our phones tucked away.

Ayacucho village, High Andes

From a guide on Lake Titicaca riding on dragon-shaped boats to the floating islands we learned about the complex history of the Aymara and Quechua peoples whose ancestors, the Incas ruled this land from Ecuador in the north as far south as Chile and Argentina.

Lake Titicaca

So it went. Shifting landscapes, shifting cultures, shifting cuisines. Arepas (corn cakes), aborrajados (fried sweet plantain with cheese), beef and pork empanadas, the hundreds of varieties of quinoa, potatoes, and sweet potatoes, the abundance of fish and sea food along our campsites on the Pacific coast, the richness of the fruit, far greater than anything we see in North America or Europe with guanaban, dragon fruit, pepino, papaya, passionfruit, cherimoya, granadilla and tamarillo to name only a few.

Roadside produce stall, La Pintada, Colombia

For us there was always someone with whom to share a new delight. We were a group but we didn’t travel as a pack. Everyone went their own pace. Ride alone if you wished or team up with riders compatible with your pacing and how much you wished to stop on route. For some a group ride was a new experience.

Kenny S. from Inverness, Scotland doesn’t see himself as a particularly outgoing person. But he appreciated how on this trip “meeting new people changes aspects of your life.” As he went on he made an effort to cycle at least for a day or half-day with everybody in the group.

Kenny (seated)

M-J remembers a tough day. It was raining and very cold with temperatures hovering just above freezing. “It was one of the very few days I thought of abandoning the ride. Then Ellen stopped and gave me a down vest. Thanks to her I was able to keep going.”

Paul, on his first group ride, says he “had to work through issues because I found it hard at first to be in a group.” As time went on that changed. Riding with others added a whole, unexpected dimension to the experience, opening up new vistas. In that time he made new good friends among the unlikely few who at the drop of a hat will head off into a great unknown for months at a time.

Kenny is a long-time member of a cycling club back home. He says that even his cycling friends, ardent about getting out on the road, “can’t get their heads around what I’m doing. They think it great if they can get a week off to go cycling.”

Mark recalls his family thinking him crazy. “But they knew I would do crazy things.”

Climbing to Quito, Ecuador

I have very active cyclist friends who tell me that there is nothing in what I have described that would induce them to sit on a bike for hours at a time, day after day and face some of the challenging conditions that inevitably surface.

There was another advantage for us to travel with TDA. Paul who had long experience of solo cycling expeditions of several weeks duration knows what it is like to organize the complex logistics of such trips. He says, “I was amazed at the wonderful job TDA did in logistical support.”

Tried and true athlete M-J notes, “I wouldn’t go on a trip like this on my own.” Crossing a continent through large swathes of uncharted and remote territory is very demanding. She appreciated the sense of safety provided by the TDA support. So much so that she has signed for multiple more TDA journeys.

Ellen agrees. “Most of the cycling I’ve done has been on my own. I couldn’t have done this one in that way.”

At the end of the day, regardless of the support from TDA or fellow riders, we face the road on our own. Each morning we saddle up not knowing what the day will bring. The kilometres stretch ahead of us; our feet press down on the pedals and off we go.

Paracas National Reserve, Peru

A journey across space, time into unknown lands and the unknown of ourselves. As we posed for photos in Ushuaia, mission accomplished, I think we all realized that something wondrous had happened. On mounting our bikes in Cartagena to cross South America we had tumbled into Alice’s rabbit hole through to a wonderland of mystery, magic and enchantment. We had emerged at the other end different, larger, trailing clouds of glory that would forever be a part of us.

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TOUR

South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

In just over 9 months, our legendary South American Epic Cycling Expedition will begin! Will you be there?

There are still limited spaces available, both for the full tour and for all sections.

It is simply impossible to convey the experience of cycling across the South American continent from tip to tip in words. Past riders have described it as: Challenging. Joyous. Thrilling. Rewarding. Enriching. Wonderful. Amazing. Fantastic. Incredible. Memorable. Stunning. Yet, even then, as one 2024 rider put it, “Words don’t do it justice!”

Perhaps not, but we hope these posts might help to give you an idea of what to expect along the way.

Full Tour – Because It’s There: South America By Bike

On the last day of June, 2024, a group of cyclists from around the world awoke at dawn in Cartagena, Colombia, watched the sunrise over the shimmering Caribbean Sea while sipping on a cup of coffee, and then started their incredible cycling adventure across South America. Led by the unflappable tour leader Carolina and her resourceful crew, the cyclists pedalled across vast salt flats, mountain passes, wind-blasted deserts, and remote river valleys. Along the way, they confronted mechanical failures, political protests, wild weather, and personal doubts — but also experienced a shared joy that can’t be measured in distance travelled. (Watch now)

Colombia – Colombian Culture Is A Sight To Behold

“As I sat in a restaurant on the outskirts of the city… I watched as thousands of cyclists of all ages and styles passed in front of my eyes – a sea of cyclists. Street vendors were all selling bike gear – helmets, sunglasses and uniforms. Everything was about cycling.” (Read more)

Ecuador – The Middle Of The World

“We stopped by the Quitsato Sundial and heard about why Ecuador has advantage over all the other equator straddling nations in the world – mountains. Apparently Ecuador’s mountainous terrain allows for unique readings and observations of the sun as it rises and sets at different times of the year.” (Read more)

Peru – Off The Beaten Track

“I thought I would visit a place off the beaten track during my rest days here: I chose Choquequirao, which could be translated as the Golden Crib. You may or may not have heard of this site, as it is only started to see visitors about 15 years ago.” (Read more)

Bolivia – Cycling The Uyuni Salt Flats

“Glimpses of flat salty plains of dried out lakes gives a taste of what is to come. But nothing can match the first glimpse of pure vast whiteness as far as the eye can see, or the crunching sound of riding across thick slabs of salt.” (Read more)

Argentina – Single Track Mind

“Remote, isolated, and challenging. The famous border crossing from Villa O’Higgins to El Chalten is one of fabled myth in the world of South American cycle touring.” (Read more)

Chile – Cycling Patagonia: Everything You Need To Know

“Do it now! Patagonia is changing, the Carretera Austral is being paved, the gauntlet between Villa O’Higgins and El Chaltén may soon be replaced by a road and bridges, so … if you want to experience this magnificent region at its wildest, you are starting to run out of time.” (Read more)

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

When I arrived in Cartagena, Colombia last July, it was hot and humid. There was no breeze and it would remain around 30C at night. As I sweated it out in the hotel parking lot in the pre-departure days – assembling equipment, organizing gear – I slowly met each of the cyclists taking part in the South American Epic Cycling Expedition as they arrived. I’ve been to the start of probably 20 or 30 of our tours over the years and I am always amazed that we are able to convince people to fly in from all over the globe to set off into the unknown as part of our intrepid crew of cyclists. Is it faith in TDA Global Cycling or is it curious people willing to jump into the deep end and try something new?

>>RELATED – Facing Adversity on the South American Epic

Whatever it is, this particular group of strangers had committed to spending the next 6 months together (for those going the full distance). When, in our adult lives, do we ever do something like this? It is unique to say the least. The openness of this group to new adventures and experiences was inspiring. There was no single reason that they all chose to do this but they were open to finding the answer to ‘why’. This film’s title – Because It’s There – gives us one possible answer.

The film takes you along for the ride and introduces you to a number of the cyclists. We are very proud of the film and wanted to thank Mats Fredrix for his efforts to put this all together – capturing footage, interviewing the participants, editing and post-production. We also want to thank Benjamin Levin for capturing footage and assisting in the film’s production.

Please enjoy the film. We’d love to get your feedback in the comments.

Because It’s There – A Group Of Strangers Crossing South America By Bicycle

“Why are you doing this?” That’s the question posed at the start of this visually rich and thought provoking documentary following the 2024 South American Epic — a 6-month cycling expedition stretching from Colombia to Patagonia. The answers, at first, are uncertain. “All my friends think it’s a bit crazy,” one rider admits but as the film unfolds, so does a deeper understanding of what compels a group of strangers to cross an entire continent by bicycle – starting in Cartagena on the Caribbean coast and ending up in Ushuaia at the southern tip of the continent in Argentina.

Led by unflappable tour leader, Carolina, and her resourceful crew, the cyclists pedal across vast salt flats, mountain passes, wind-blasted deserts, and remote river valleys. Along the way, they confront mechanical failures, political protests, wild weather and personal doubts — but they also experience a shared joy that can’t be measured in distance travelled.

Through candid interviews, moments of adversity and scenes of breathtaking beauty, the film captures more than just a journey — it reveals the formation of a tight-knit community. “I like the circus metaphor,” one rider says. “We are putting up the big top, our tents, everyday, taking them down.. travelling to the next place.”

In the end, no simple answer to ‘why’ emerges but one thing becomes clear – this is not just a film about cycling. It’s about choosing discomfort, embracing challenge and discovering meaning in movement — together.

The 2024 South American Epic Cycling Expedition took cyclists almost 14,000 km from Cartagena, Colombia to Ushuaia, Argentina. The route passed through Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina & Chile and included 128 cycling days. There were 39 rest days spaced out along the way in order to allow the riders to explore fascinating sights like Machu Picchu and the Bolivian Salt Flats. Was it a success? We’ll let the riders answer that question!

The 2026 South American Epic Cycling Expedition is now open for registration. Spaces are filling up quickly.

“Great variety of wonderful cultural and spectacular geographical experiences, thrilling cycling challenges, extremely congenial and supportive staff and fellow cyclists. Rewarding, enriching remote experiences that were well worth working for. 10/10!!” – Brenda Trenholme (Canada)

“It’s a wonderful thing having your route, campgrounds, hotels, and meals taken care of for you and trucks to haul your stuff. Just about every staff member involved with the tour was a standout focused on giving a great experience.” – Suzanne Stack (USA)

“Wonderful trip and experience of a lifetime. Cycling is an amazing way to experience this beautifully diverse continent, especially as part of such a great group of cyclists from around the world. The tour is very well organized and provides a great balance between fantastic staff support and freedom for your own adventures. Thoroughly recommended.” – Stephan Daggenvoorde (Netherlands)

“Words don’t do it justice!” – Mike Mossing (USA)

“A unique experience and cycling trip. It was really tough, mentally and cycling. But now I am proud I did it and will never forget this adventure.” – Klaus Hofstaetter (Switzerland)

“I feel incredibly lucky that I was able to do this. It was one of the most incredible experiences of my life.” – Mark Khalil (USA)

“I loved the tour. The TDA route is exceptional and the field staff is tremendous. It lived up to and exceeded my pre-tour checklist for a great experience. I especially liked having a few shorter days sprinkled into the ambitious schedule that allowed us to do some exploring off route and/or on foot. Thanks TDA for making these tours and expeditions all over the world available.” – Scott Colner (USA)

“It was the trip of a lifetime!” – Marie-José Vasseur (Canada)

“The ride lived up to its name EPIC. Five and half months passed so quickly. The tour leaders watched out for our safety both on and off the bike. Information was made in a timely manner and the ride was a complete success for me.” – Steve Johnson (USA)

“Another memorable TDA Tour.” – Neil Cassson (UK)

“A challenging tour through stunning scenery. The views just kept getting better as we went through Patagonia, and every turn had more beautiful views to offer.” – Liz Crago (New Zealand)

“This was an amazing experience. For me my mission became: to cross the continent by bike and this is what TDA provided me. An unforgettable experience. Thank you.” – Jean Benoit (USA)

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Benjamin Levin is the Content Creator on the 2024 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. 

The Greek myth of Sisyphus has frequently been explored as an allegory for the human condition, most famously by 20th century existentialist Albert Camus who compared the Greek myth, in which Sisyphus is condemned to the seemingly meaningless task of rolling a boulder up a hill for eternity, to humanity’s futile search to give meaning to our lives in an inherently meaningless universe. However, Camus did not see Sisyphus as a tragic figure, resigned to a life with no purpose, living with no intention. He argued that in the face of absurd tasks and struggles, the attitude that one adopts towards the struggle is what allows them to find meaning in a world devoid of it. Camus transforms the tragic figure of Sisyphus into a symbol of defiance against the absurd – “The Struggle itself towards the heights is enough to fill a man’s heart. One must imagine Sisyphus happy.”

And we are all Sisyphus. Regardless of your personal interpretation of the meaning of life, we do struggle, but we struggle with the intention to give purpose to our lives. While we are not pushing boulders up hills behind the doors of death, we are pushing pedals up mountains in South America: 3053 meters of climbing over 70 kilometers, 2015 meters climbing over 102 kilometers, 2456 meters of climbing over 154 kilometers at 4,500 meters elevation…. This is the three day stretch on the South American Epic as we leave Nazca, Peru and approach the ancient Inca city of Cusco. Sleeping in bush camps for 2 of those nights, at 3500 and 3600 meters with overnight temperatures reaching 0C… is this the definition of a meaningless struggle? This tour is not a race. You are not making any money. In fact, it has cost everyone quite a bit to have the opportunity to suffer in this way. So what makes this struggle, this absurd task, worth doing?

Every push of the pedal is an individual battle, every road that rises up to meet us an adversary, but there is meaning in this struggle. We each choose to put ourselves through this because the challenge gives us purpose. The meaning is unique to each one of us. Sometimes it is a reason that we are conscious of and sometimes it is a reason that we have not realized yet. Andy wants to get in better shape; Tom has done all the TDA Epics besides South America, and Avi hates the idea of quitting more than he dislikes the struggle of pushing himself to his limit everyday. All of these reasons are what makes pushing the boulder, pushing those pedals meaningful to us. We all have to push our own boulders in life. We all strive to find meaning in a world where at times this is very difficult. But here on tour, we are all Sisyphus, condemned to struggle, but to a struggle that we all love, and in our individual reasons for this love, we find purpose.

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TOUR

South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Benjamin Levin is the Content Creator on the 2024 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. 

Cycling across South America for five and a half months, from the Amazon rainforest to the icy peaks of Patagonia, is bound to bring with it a remarkable variety of experiences. Even with the grand expectations set for the South American Epic (one of TDA Global Cycling’s four epics trips that traverse entire continents – the others being Tour d’Afrique, Silk Route & North American Epic), a journey that spans six countries from Cartagena, Colombia to Ushuaia, Argentina—participants have found themselves continually surprised by the dramatic changes they encounter, not only on a large scale, country to country, but also on a more granular level as well, during a single day. This adventure, designed to showcase some of the continent’s most breathtaking and remote locations, often feels like it is traveling through entirely different countries within a single day. The immense variety of environments, cultures, and challenges keeps riders on their toes and adds an unpredictable, yet exhilarating dimension to the adventure.

Broad country to country shifts are what we expected and as the trip developed, they became quite apparent. Beginning in the Colombian Caribbean, it was hot and humid. Seriously hot and humid. “Cycling in the tropical heat, the oppressive humidity always lying upon you… was part of what I signed up for, but also difficult,” John Benoit proclaimed as we chatted in Medellin, Colombia during the first weeks of the trip. There were a few nights at the beginning where when simply lying in your tent, you would drip sweat (as Shanny described earlier in his blog). Quite the juxtaposition to sleeping at 4000 meters in Ecuador where lying in your tent, you could not breath through your nose because you would not take in enough oxygen. Both places are stunning and both offer immensely different challenges. We knew these macroscopic changes would take place. Yet, we may not have known just how grand they would be.

On the other hand, we had less of an idea of how our experiences would change on a granular scale, within a day. Talking to our tour leader Carolina in Cartagena, Colombia, she warned me that one of the most difficult aspects of this trip was going to be the change in climate and environment within a short period of time. “I feel like the biggest challenge for the riders will be to deal with the variation of weather, especially during the same day when they will have all sorts of climates and temperatures,” said Carolina, a day before the tour kicked off. Throughout the entirety of the trip this has proved to be true. “Often we are in 4 very different places in one day. By starting at a low elevation in a big city, then going through little towns on rough back roads and into national parks, the geography changes, the climate changes, the vegetation changes…” exclaimed Mike Mossing, one of our Cartagena to Ushuaia riders.

These changes present challenges that your typical cycling tour does not. Jim Fowler told me that he and a lot of the other riders carry a wide range of gear on their bikes because of the wide range of climates potentially faced during a single ride. “We carry a couple layers for warmth and of course the ability to not wear them to keep cool… That is really the only way to do it. It means you carry a bit more weight but it’s part of an epic adventure.” The diversity of landscape on this trip does not solely present itself as a challenge to the riders. It also makes for some of the most incredible scenery you can imagine. “It is stunning, within just a few kilometres we’ve gone from a country side where you’re seeing rice paddies to totally aridity and then the next day, after climbing just a few kilometres you’re back to green lush vegetation,” noted Jim.

Everyone knew that they signed up to see the dunes in Peru, the kingdom of the Amazon in Ecuador, and the Colombian Andes. The scope, scenery, and variety of landscape have indeed lived up to promise that it would be epic and at times otherworldly. However, what many of us did not anticipate was the sheer diversity of ecosystems, ways of life, and cycling terrain that we would encounter in short periods of time.

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Benjamin Levin is the Content Creator on the 2024 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. 

Many parts of a TDA expedition are easy to quantify. You can track how many kilometres you have traveled, how much elevation you gained. You can read your heart rate and monitor the oxygen in your blood. Other parts, however, are not as easy to measure. How do you quantify camaraderie, happiness, the exhilaration of completing the day or the encouragement of your peers as you crest that final hill? You just cannot. These are intangible, metaphysical parts of this trip that, while maybe not as easily encouraging as seeing that 3,000 meters of climbing completed, in my opinion, are more important and impactful than any statistic Ride With GPS can tell you.

Staff enjoying some time in the hammock during the long work days

Our tours are rider centric, but the staff help set the tone. Having a group that exudes positive feelings sets a wonderful baseline for the entire tour’s enjoyment. Our chef on tour, Colleen, jovially said to the group a few mornings ago that she woke up to the sound of our medic, Jessica, laughing at 5 in the morning. Most of the time when you wake up at 5 in the morning, ahead of a 16 hour work day, you do not wake up laughing. But 5 of us, Ine, Lorenzo, Jon, Jes, and me, were all laughing that morning. We had woken up in a tree house above a river bend in the Ecuadorian Amazon. We braved the bugs, bats, and ants’ nests in order to sleep up there. It was amazing; as soon as we woke up Jon was impersonating someone, Jes was cackling as she so freely does, and Ine and I were giggling over the ridiculousness of the situation and the privilege we had to be where we were, surrounded by people we care about.

Tour leader Carolina and rider Tom enjoy a moment out of the heat

That is how we begin most mornings on the South American Epic and that feeling continues to perpetuate itself throughout the day, throughout the riders, and throughout the entire trip. It seems a bit funny to say, but we have such a good time working these 16 hour days, that it does not feel like work at all. Because of this, the riders do not feel the barrier between staff and client. We are all part of this rolling family circus that is laughing its way down South America.

“The staff have been incredible, I have loved getting to know everyone… I think together we all make a very good team,” Mike Mossing said to me as we chatted about the group dynamics on the trip. We all make a good team on this trip. Not just the staff that work for the group, but also the rider group and the staff together. Happiness is infectious and works both ways. I said to Mike, “We [staff] feel as if this is a really solid group of riders. I was talking to Ine this morning about how you will come in after the toughest of days saying ‘that sucked!’ but smiling and looking forward to the next one.” That attitude from the riders does for the staff what all of us getting along so well does for the riders. It makes us happy and motivated to continue doing all we can to make this the most gratifying experience across the board.

Staff and riders enjoy a tour of the middle of the earth (the equator!)

These feelings do not get measured by statistics. You cannot quantify what waking up laughing does to you during the day. But I know, as well as most people on this tour, that the air around you is lighter when your are happy, that you are more encouraged to work longer hours, clean more plates and bowls, and engage in more genuine conversations when you enjoy the people around you. We are lucky; we say that all the time to each other. TDA tours are always awesome. In just one and a half months in South America we have seen volcanoes erupt over the Amazon rainforest (seriously) and cycled to peaks higher than most people in the world have ever been. We have laughed with friends in small alley coffee shops and slept in treehouses above rivers that have no beginning and no end. We have done it together; encouraging each other day in day out. Waking up laughing, excited to work, and passing that excitement onto the cyclists, making them excited to put those two pedals down over and over again.

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Mark Khalil is an American cyclist on the 2024 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. In this guest post, he takes a philosophical look at his time cycling in Colombia.

From the shores of Cartagena to the sun kissed mountains of the Desierto de la Tatacoa, and crisscrossing the nose of the Andes — Colombia has it all. It’s been fun riding across tolls, through tunnels, or over bridges on my bicycle — and across my first land border to Ecuador! But what’s been most amusing is traveling with my two-wheeled chariot on some ferry rides, such as this one across Colombia’s mighty Magdalena river. And yes – that’s a donkey, on an earlier boarding group.

In our final stretch in Colombia, we leave the gravel backroads (mostly) behind, and hop onto the Pan-Americana highway- an iconic road weaving from northern Alaska to el fin del mundo in  Argentina, that we will be revisiting a few more times in later parts of our journey. The highway is a character on its own that has been full of surprises for us around every corner. I stopped for water at this corner kiosk, lured by this shopkeeper’s wide smile, and wondering why two goats were tied up on platforms.

A few minutes later, as I cool down and sip my water on the side of the road, a car rolls up, and the driver pulls the window down and the customer exchanges some coins for a glass of freshly squeezed goat milk… No almond milk option on the pan-Americana…

My new roommate for the leg, Mike, is a lovely retired professor of biochemistry who lost his wife of 30+ years to cancer a few years back. “Everyone will face a cancer of some sort or another in their life…” Mike says. His words shake me. We all face difficulties. We all face pain. I think of how I have been fortunate so far in my life. Extraordinarily fortunate that I can be on this expedition, and because of the great hand I’ve been dealt, being born into the loving family I am a part of, and being able minded and bodied.

When I measure the mountains of misfortune I have hiked in comparison to Mike’s, although at the time they all scarred me deeply: the sudden loss of my uncle, a challenging breakup, an unexpected investment loss… they seem like hills in comparison to Mike’s Everest. “The deeper that sorrow carves into your being, the more joy you can contain,” writes Gibran Khalil Gibran. This truth holds for Mike, with his contagious smile and abundance of positive energy on our most difficult days.

Before we know it, we have our final day in Colombia, finishing with hours and hours of climbing on our last few days. On the Ecuadorian side of the border, we were greeted by more climbs across Ecuador’s volcano alley, sunnier weather, as well as a local Ecuadorian tourist agency and a police escort that will roll with us across the equator until Quito.

“You know Mark, the climbs don’t get any easier, you just get faster…,” says Kenny, our Scottish mechanic. I think of how many hours or days we’ve spent climbing in Colombia, the tally is over 38,000 meters of vertical. And of course every climb is different, and although we’ve had a few crushing multi-day climbs, the descents provide a dose of amnesia for the struggle. I’ve never heard a single complaint that a downhill was too long… There is nothing as exhilarating as descending effortlessly, hearing the wind whistling, and soaring on a saddle surrounded by mountains. But while the climbs can last days, the descents only minutes.

I think of something my parents told me while growing up: “that everything worthwhile is uphill” and the story of the tortoise and the hare. “Inspiration is not reliable. It’s about endurance. Doing it day after day when you don’t feel like it,” says Tom, as we discuss both writing and climbing. I think of how the investment loss I faced a few years ago seriously set me back in terms of preparing me for this trip, but how the pain from that setback had become a springboard to course correct my compass, to focus on endurance. I wanted to get to the summit. I still do.

But “to live for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain which sustain life, not the top,” writes Robert Pirsig in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. And I was following the hare trying to get to the top quickly, while I should and now embrace the wisdom of the tortoise. Patient progression. Compounding. And more importantly, to be far more skeptical when I hear that it’s “all downhill.” In the end, the tortoise not only wins the race, but by going slower there is more to see and absorb, and on our journey, everyday there is something new to notice, something new to learn.

But who wants to live on the side forever? Climbs are tough. And once you get up there it can be miserably windy and cold, and Kenny was right – none of numerous climbs we’ve faced have been easy. The past few weeks have been the most I’ve ever ridden and climbed in my life, certainly more than I thought I could handle. While I’ve gotten stronger and a little faster, I have stopped checking how many more hundreds of metres it’ll take me until the top. It’ll take as long as it takes, I tell myself, I’m just going to keep pedalling and remind myself that I get to do this, not I can do this – I now know I can.

Everybody wants to get to the top: financially, physically, romantically, professionally, spiritually, socially, mentally, etc. but the sweaty struggle on the sides, not the glory on the summit are what I’m understanding is more worthy of respect. That is a big part of what this journey means for me, is falling in love with the sides of the mountain, and to open myself more to be transformed by them. To be committed to the process rather than the outcome. To trust the tortoise. Our few days through Ecuador’s volcano alley are marvelous, and the crowning climb of the trip for me (so far) was leaving Quito’s cute street and climbing on volcanic terrain to 3800m above sea level to the Cotopaxi volcano.

Despite the fact that all the riders share the physical journey, we are all on our independent inner journeys. Take Klaus (46, Switzerland) who was smoking a pack (“minimum”) a day for 25 years, and hasn’t touched a cigarette since the trip started. Or Mike Crum (60+, New Zealand) who had a stroke in January, and has been riding half days since the start until he builds enough strength to pedal full days. Colombia has pushed us all. But it’s for the challenges, the thrill of discovery mile after mile, the uncertainty behind every corner, the character of every climb, and the surrender to the process that I’m here. Hasta la proxima, Colombia — gracias por todo. Looking forward to continuing the journey from down the southern hemisphere.

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

“As I sat in a restaurant on the outskirts of the city… I watched as thousands of cyclists of all ages and styles passed in front of my eyes – a sea of cyclists. Street vendors were all selling bike gear – helmets, sunglasses and uniforms. Everything was about cycling. I had never even dreamed of anything like that, but once one of our Dutch riders told me that he also had never witnessed anything similar, I realized that what I was seeing was absolutely unique.“

– from Colombia’s Crazy Cycling Culture, 2017

I remember reading this blog by Cristiano, our South America Head of Operations, and thinking it all sounded quite cool but it wasn’t until I experienced this myself in July that I could truly appreciate what he was saying. Cycling into Bogota on a Sunday means joining a river of local cyclists who are out enjoying the quieter weekend traffic. It reminded me of being at a bike race where all you see are cyclists in every direction – but this was a public road on the outskirts of a massive city where it felt as if cyclists had simply taken over the streets.

Up into Bogota

While participating in this year’s South American Epic, I chose to tackle this big climb into Bogota. Cristiano had mentioned it was a ‘classic’ route for local cyclists. Starting from La Vega, you almost immediately start climbing and it doesn’t relent for 25 km during which you ascend 1600m. I did see a lot of cyclists on the climb and it was exciting to be amongst the local crowd enjoying their weekend ride but as I reached the summit the true scale of the local cycling scene became apparent.

Shanny at the top of the climb

It isn’t just Bogota – each day in every place across Colombia we saw cyclists. The range of riders was extremely wide – women and men of all ages chugging uphill on knobby-tired mountain bikes or whizzing down another hill on slick carbon racing machines (there is only uphill or downhill in Colombia, nothing is flat!). Some were in serious looking pelotons and others were in pods of one or two friends, out to enjoy themselves at a more moderate pace. Some wore sleek and flashy cycling kits, others were in baggy shorts, but everyone was just there to ride.

Especially on the weekends, even in the more remote or rural areas we passed through like Elias and the southern city of Pasto, we saw many cyclists out enjoying the natural beauty of their country and the natural challenge of the climbs in the Andes. If the mountains in Ethiopia and Kenya created a running culture, they have certainly created a cycling culture in Colombia.

“Riding on rural climbs, it is common to see local cyclists in pro gear training on the climbs, stopping to watch the Tour de France at a local cafe, then climbing another mountain – perhaps we have seen the next Nairo Quintana or Rigoberto Uran…So it is safe to say, the Colombians love their bicycles, and for us riding on the tour, it makes us feel more welcome and slightly safer as we pedal across this cycling crazy nation.” – from ¡Mucho Gusto Colombia! Blog, 2017

“I haven’t been in any other country that has had such an avid cycling culture…everyone greets each other. Theres a real sorority/fraternity. The passion they have…all linked through cycling was tremendous.” -2024 South American Epic participant Tom Perlmutter

I was glad to have experienced Colombian cycling culture and hope I have a chance to return. In this video our Content Creator for the 2024 South American Epic sits down with some of the tour participants and a local cycling advocate to gain further insights into what the local culture is all about.

Have you been to an under-the-radar cycling destination? Tell us about a cycling-mad country you have visited in the comments below.

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“I’m a big believer in the separate tents” – Toni-Anne from Canada

“You have to know each other’s strengths and weaknesses” – Janet from New Zealand

My partner Bonny and I have travelled extensively over the course of our 17 years together – both with TDA and on our own, and both on rugged camping expeditions and more comfortable hotel-based cycling trips.

I arrived in Cartagena and camped with the group for the first week solo while Bonny (a teacher) finished her school year and joined the group when we reached Medellin – about 10 days into the trip. By that point I had settled into a somewhat logical system of organizing my gear in the tent and then packing it back into my duffel bag the next morning. My walking shoes and sandals had a particular spot in the duffel. The packing cubes, my sleeping bag, the tent all fit inside rather comfortably and I was well under our 23kg weight limit.

But when Bonny arrived, a great reshuffling ensued and we decided to use a tried and true approach that we have used on past trips – one of our daily bags became the ‘tent’ bag with our tent, sleeping bags, liners, and mattresses. The other was our clothing, toiletries and miscellaneous bag (Note: on TDA camping tours each participant has a daily bag and a ‘rest day’ bag – the rest day bag you only access on the rest days and it has excess clothes, spares, etc.). It took us a few days, but we got it working. We still have the odd evening where a shirt or a toothbrush or a headlamp goes missing, but it’s mostly all there.

>>Related Post: Packing For A TDA Tour – Everything You Need To Know

While on the bike, Bonny and I like to cycle together and experience the sights and sounds – sharing these unforgettable moments seems to make it more special and meaningful for us. We ride at a similar speed and wait for each other at the tops of climbs or when one is lagging behind. We both carry our own water, money and navigation devices and make sure to be mostly self-contained and able to get to where we are going on our own, if needed. I spoke with two other couples on the tour to hear about how they find success on these tours and what their strategy is for riding and camping.

Jim & Toni-Anne – An independent-minded couple

Jim and Toni-Anne are a TDA love story. They met on the ill-fated 2020 Tour d’Afrique that was cut short by COVID in Tanzania and have done several tours together since. Having met on tour, they made a decision at the outset not to share tents but share a room on the rest days. This allows them to have their own independent experiences and not be reliant on the other. While discussing separate tents, Toni-Anne felt that, “you need your own space and that way you stay responsible for your own things…I’m very organized, he’s a scrambler.” Jim also shared that, “We also don’t ride together…she likes to stop more.” They like to ride at their own pace and then meet at camp to share the evening together, but they also make a point to interact with the group. Toni-Anne remarked, “I think socially… you could miss out on the connections you make with the other people” while Jim added, “As a couple you really have to focus on interacting with the rest of the group.”

Janet & Oliver – Experiencing their first TDA tour together

Janet and Ollie from New Zealand are active people who’ve been thrilled every time we encounter some rough gravel roads. They have never been on a long camping expedition like this before, so unlike Jim and Toni-Anne, they were stepping into more uncharted territory. “You have to know each other’s strengths and weaknesses,” Janet shared. She is a stronger climber but Ollie is faster on the descents so they ride at their pace in the more hilly terrain and but otherwise ride together. Ollie added that, “you learn to recognize when your partner is struggling physically or emotionally and you try to support each other.” “And lots of stops for ice cream and cold drinks!” Janet added.

Do you have tips on cycling or camping with your significant other? Do you ride together? Do you have separate tents? What is the best thing about traveling as a couple? I only touched the surface of this topic, so please share your tips and advice in the comments below.

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A few days ago, the cyclists started the day by climbing over 1700m in the first 35 km of stage 10. The first 18 km were on a gravel road with rough, steep sections. The temperatures when they reached the 4055m pass were at around 7C with strong wind gusts. Some of them were able to overcome the steep climbs, rough roads and challenging weather to descend on a narrow but smoothly paved road with gentle curves and light traffic to reach camp. Others struggled mightily on the first ascent and got a lift to the finish line.

The story of this tour started out not in the mountains but in the lowlands of the Caribbean coast in Cartagena. We were tested early – the humidity and intense heat followed us through the first 5 stages. It was a constant challenge to stay hydrated and consume enough fuel to keep us pedalling through the sweltering heat. The lack of cool breezes made the humid air claustrophobic. We were relieved to cycle early each morning as it was the only way to generate a breeze and lower our temperatures.

“How did you sleep?“, I asked Katie, from the UK on our 3rd morning “Terrible!” she replied with a big smile on her face, spooning oatmeal into her bowl. Adversity has come in waves and the riders are handling it as best they can. Are they tired and frustrated at times? Of course, but this group is staying positive and looking ahead to the next challenge. Andrew commented that the stage leaving Medellin (stage 8), was the best morning of riding he’d ever had. Marie-Josee from Quebec said that even when she is tired and struggling up a climb, she remembers to stop and look around at the beautiful scenery we are riding through. Carolina, the tour’s leader, ran her pre-dinner meeting asking how riders were feeling after a very hard day. She then laid out the details for the next stage saying, “tomorrow is not an easy day.”

She was right. Although it started with a long descent, the stage ended with an equally long climb that culminated with a vicious thunderstorm towards the end of the ride. When Joanne had a mechanical issue early in the ride, there was a group of riders (among them some of our slower riders) that pulled over and helped her resolve the leaking valve – lending her their pumps and expertise and helping to inflate her tire. What made yesterday and today and all the days so far a success had nothing to do with how many completed the stage, or how fast or slow they rode, but rather the attitude and the resolve among the group. When riders chose to stop and assist their fellow rider on the roadside, they were making their own day a little longer, but they were increasing the chances that the group moved forward as a team.

The rain in our humble camp on the edge of Viani has stopped now and there are beer and snacks for sale. The owner performed some traditional horn and drum music as we ate our dinner. Riders have set up their tents under a simple tin roofed shelter and lights have gone out before 9pm with everyone resting up for yet another day on the road.

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

It may be difficult to think about fall and winter as summer is just around the corner (well, here in the northern hemisphere that is), but now is an excellent time to plan a shorter, end-of-year adventure while spaces are still available. We have recently opened up a few spots in Patagonia on the South American Epic and spaces remain available in Southeast Asia on the Bamboo Road and in Tasmania & New Zealand on the Trans-Oceania. There are also a limited number of spots on the inaugural Cape to Kili African tour. These incredible adventures start in mid-October or later and range in length from 12 days to four weeks.

1. Bike Across the Andes in Argentina & Chile

*18 days starting October 11th in Salta, Argentina*

“The road climbs up to almost 4000 m in the shadow of Cerro Aconcagua, at 6922 m, the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere. This is wild high country and the riders can expect gusting winds, chilly temperatures and, if clear, incredible views. The border crossing into Chile, one of the highest in the world, is at 3200 m. Once over pass, the cyclists will enjoy a twisting ride down the other side of the mountain range on a series of switchbacks – eventually reaching the country’s capital Santiago with its 19th century neo-classical architecture and winding side streets.”

FULL DETAILS HERE for the ‘Across the Andes’ section.

2. Cycle the Lake District south of Santiago, Chile

*15 days starting October 31st in Santiago, Chile*

As described in a blog from the 2017 tour, the Lake District is a welcome dose of pleasant. It is, of course, still challenging but it is below average in terms of the difficulty rating for the full tour. In fact, it is the only section on the South American Epic that is below a 4/5 rating. It has some fantastic campsites, beautiful lakes and mountain views and access to wonderful Chilean wines and cuisine.

FULL DETAILS HERE for the ‘Lake District’ section.

3. Explore Patagonia & the Carretera Austral

*28 days starting November 16th in Puerto Montt, Chile*

“You look here and there’s a mountain range. You look here there’s another mountain range, you look back and there’s a huge waterfall. It’s astounding.” – from our Cycling Patagonia video. In the final weeks of the South American Epic, riders experience the unique and awesome scenery of Patagonia – its mountains, waterways and roads that take them to the southern tip of the South American continent.

FULL DETAILS HERE for the ‘Carretera Austral’ section.

4. Enjoy Two Weeks Circling Tasmania

*14 days starting October 15th in Launceston, Australia*

“The Australian island of Tasmania is quickly gaining a reputation as a cyclist’s paradise – from cross country to downhill, to relaxing rides along quiet country roads with scenic coastal views. Lightly-trafficked roads in good condition provide a great network to explore the entire island…While you are happily pedalling along – on your own or as part of the Trans-Oceania Cycling Tour – be aware that Tasmania has a lot more to offer riders than just ideal cycling conditions.” Read 6 Reasons to Cycle Tasmania.

FULL DETAILS HERE for the ‘Tasmanian Devils & Tigers’ section.

5. New Zealand – North Island

*12 days starting November 21st in Auckland, New Zealand*

“[From Auckland] the riders begin their journey south and are treated to some of the world’s most scenic highlights like Lake Taupo and the hot springs/mud geysers around Rotorua. A rest day in National Park gives riders the option of experiencing the renowned Tongariro Crossing day hike. After a day of tasting the famous New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, the cyclists will continue through orchards, sheep-clad rolling hills and yet more vineyards before arriving in beautiful Wellington, the country’s cultural capital and the end of this incredible section.”

FULL DETAILS HERE for the ‘Maori Magic’ section.

6. New Zealand – South Island

*12 days starting December 4th in Wellington, New Zealand*

“The west coast of New Zealand’s South Island is spectacular: the stunning Pancake Rocks, rushing rivers pouring into the ocean, snow-clad peaks, wild kiwis, the Fox & Franz Joseph glaciers, mysterious caves, abandoned mine shafts, empty beaches, hot springs and much more. Five days later the route heads inland past Lakes Wanaka & Hawea before heading up the Cardrona River and its abandoned goldfields. Cyclists will then traverse the Crown Range summit, before an exhilarating descent to historic Arrowtown. From there it is just a quick ride in to the end of this incredible journey in the country’s adventure capital, Queenstown.”

FULL DETAILS HERE for the ‘Kiwi Country’ section.

7. Bike The Classic Southeast Asian Route through Vietnam, Cambodia & Thailand

*31 days starting October 19th in Hanoi, Vietnam*

“Heading south from Hanoi, the riders will pass water buffalo, farmers, and rice paddies along secluded country lanes. Staying inland, they will travel through small villages along the famous Ho Chi Minh Trail before heading to the coast and the historic cities of Hue and Hoi An. The route then takes them into Cambodia past ancient Khmer temples before arriving in Phnom Penh…We stop in Siem Reap, home to one of the world’s most spectacular sights – Angkor Wat – 40 square km of temples and statues of gods and demons. The tour then continues on to Bangkok – known for its vibrant street life – and the end of this section.”

FULL DETAILS HERE for the ‘Golden Triangle’ section.

8. Discover Thailand & Malaysia

*15 days starting November 20th in Bangkok, Thailand*

“Leaving Bangkok, the riders will hug the coast of the Gulf of Thailand with palm trees, sand and warm waters on one side and forested mountains on the other. The cyclists will stop in Thailand’s oldest beach resort, Hua Hin. Further south…a rest day in the small southern city of Ranong. Riders can enjoy the laid-back atmosphere or a soothing dip in the local hot springs. There will be some challenging climbing here, our first since leaving Vietnam, and the riders will subsequently enjoy their rest day in Ao Nang…The expedition then turns back inland and crosses into Malaysia before jumping on a ferry into historic Georgetown, Penang, the end of this sun-soaked section.”

FULL DETAILS HERE for the ‘Thai One On’ section.

9. Explore Malaysia & Singapore via the Scenic Cameron Highlands

*13 days starting December 6th in Penang, Malaysia*

“The Cameron Highlands were first mapped out by the British in 1885 but it wasn’t until the 1930’s that they decided to turn it into a hill station, similar to those in British India, especially after it was shown that tea could be grown in the area. The Highlands are home to over 700 species of plants including many that are rare to the tropics. The Highlands are blessed not only with cool weather but also with verdant forests, picturesque lakes, sparkling waterfalls, rushing rivers and even hidden aboriginal villages.” Read more from High Tea on the Bamboo Road.

FULL DETAILS HERE for the ‘Singapore Sling’ section.

10. Take An East African Cycling Adventure With Views Of Mt Kilimanjaro

*20 days starting October 16th in Lilongwe, Malawi*

“We cruise downhill towards Lake Malawi and then head north into Tanzania where the red earth meets the deep green forest roads that cut through the centre of the country. From there it isn’t too many more days before we reach the end of our journey, with Mount Kilimanjaro towering above us in Moshi, Tanzania.” Read more on A New Tour d’Afrique Experience.

FULL DETAILS HERE for the ‘Green Hills of Africa’ section.

 To see everything we offer in 2024 and beyond, visit our tour calendar page.

Nicholas Coe is the Content Creator for the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. He sends his final report from Ushuaia, Argentina.

Ushuaia, the final destination for the South American Epic, is the southernmost city on Earth – literally the end of the world. After five thousand eight hundred and ten kilometres and sixty nine days, we arrived at the tip of South America. It’s mind boggling to see where we are on Google Maps.

Finishing an expedition is a bittersweet moment. Riders are cheerful and sorrowful. Energized and exhausted. You ride into the final hotel with, of course, a tough final climb up to it  and now what? While breaking down his bike, rider Ted stated, “What am I going to do now, when I am home and get back from a bike ride and there isn’t soup or a meal made for me?” Or riders Alain and Hugh, now thinking about how they are going straight to work from the airport. Work?? Now that’s a change in mindset.

The last climb

The timing of our arrival in Ushuaia was extra special. Argentina was playing the Netherlands in the World Cup the day we arrived in town and being in the country that celebrates football intensely, man did we have an experience. Every rider watched as the match went into penalties. The energy in the room exploded when Argentina won but little did we know the bomb that had exploded out in the streets. We walked to our final dinner together through streets of honking horns and blue and white flags. The energy was incredible!

Victory!

A group of riders – the gal pals – Maggie, Debbie, and Marnie went on a penguin tour the next day. Talking to Debbie afterwards, she stated how “it was a great way to conclude the trip. a pleasant, happy experience.” I’m glad this group of friends, who met on this tour, were able to get away and share one last special South American experience together (and I’m jealous I didn’t go).

Done and dusted

Ushuaia is a place of mountains sliding into the ocean. Hills like San Francisco. Famous for penguins and journeys to Antarctica. A town overlooked by glaciers. We are almost numb to the beauty and just how extraordinary this place is. This is a result of two and a half months of intense adrenaline and being overwhelmed by scenic bliss. These countries, Argentina and Chile, have some of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever seen. Seeing so many bike packers traveling the same roads as us made us realize how special this journey is. People come from all around the world to cycle the route that we just completed. Now that it’s finished, we suddenly realize how this was a trip of a lifetime.

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Nicholas Coe is the Content Creator for the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. He reports on the experience of cycling in Patagonia.

After leaving Puerto Montt, our cycling lifestyle completely changed. We have had a few hurdles to jump through on our new journey – ferries, rain, campsites and food. It was almost like entering a different country, a different world. We knew that, at last, we had officially entered Patagonia.

While cycling through Patagonia on an epic expedition, it’s almost impossible to stay in a warm cabin and bed every night. This place forces you to camp. This adds to the experience of being here and we’ve been camping in some spectacular spots like a lamb farm when you’re greeted by herds of sheep or farm animals in the morning or on a body of water surrounded by snowy peaks.

You never know what you’re going to eat when you roll into camp. After one hundred and twenty kilometres on gravel roads and over a thousand meters of climbing, you’ll eat basically anything but our chef, Mark Lutz, has been spoiling us. What about a giant fish caught that very day or a full lamb cooked over an open fire by a local farmer?!

There are kilometres of roads without any development. If we did see something, it was a simple homestead and we wondered how they get any supplies, food, etc. Rider Janet once said while looking at a log cabin, “Wow, they must really hate people”. Riding here, you have to deal with very few coke and coffee stops. From previously having four stops a day to none at all, it’s a mental challenge to overcome while cycling each day.

The weather? Well it’s most unpredictable! Expect rain, and be surprised by sunshine. I have never seen a group of people who are more able to withstand weather than our riders. They cycle through cold, wind, rain –  sometimes at the same time! Everyone’s true colours came out riding into Villa O’Higgins – everyone was astonishingly positive. Rider Marnie rolled into lunch with water dripping from her gloves and helmet and the first thing she said was “Is everyone okay?” She was thinking about the group way before thinking about herself.

Ferries? Wow, have we dealt with ferries. Our first ride was a six hour ferry through gorgeous Patagonian channels. Since then, we have ridden on another four ferries! One particular ferry was the cause of us getting to know the little town Villa O’Higgins so well. Villa O’Higgins, population six hundred, sits at the end of the Carretera Austral. The South American Epic rolled into this town with the biggest group the town has seen in four years and we ended up staying way longer than expected. We were supposed to stay just one night and then hop on a ferry for an epic journey across a lake to an island where we would cross into Argentina, hop on yet another ferry, before riding into El Chalten.

Due to high winds on the lake, the ferry couldn’t operate and there was nothing we could do. At first, the uncertainty made us worry as a group but soon, after accepting the inevitable, the group started appreciating where they were. The quaintness of the town inspired everyone. A brewery, Ventisca Cerveceria Patagonia, was a rider favourite with its friendly atmosphere, good beer, great food and Wifi. It was opened just a year ago by a lovely local couple and you could feel their passion for it when walking through its wooden doors.

The staff are extremely proud of this group of riders. They have been going into many unexpected situations with no hesitation at all. They are tough and resilient, two traits you definitely need while cycling though Patagonia.

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Nicholas Coe is the Content Creator for the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. He sends this report from Patagonia.

On TDA Global Cycling expeditions, your body goes through a lot. Cycling one hundred kilometres and more every day while sleeping in a tent is not an easy day in the park!

Everyone has their own way of coping with this stress. One rider, Maggie, leads yoga stretches almost every afternoon in camp. These are for anyone who wants to join in. Others stretch alone and on their own time. Our doctor, Harrison, has introduced a new taping method using ‘blue tape’. For those with consistent aching muscle pains, this tape adds a little extra stabilizing. Rest days on camping expeditions are treasured for the opportunities for self care. They are a different kind of resting. Everyone’s schedules are planned around a rest day and what they’ll be like.

What do we do on rest days? Well basically anything. Rest days allow us to be tourists. Sure, you can relax and get a message, but there’s a new world waiting to be explored. We can fully engulf ourselves in a new culture. Instead of being on the move constantly and biking right through places, we can be in a place for more than 24 hours – and discover what the location holds!

When speaking to riders about our rest days, one day has stood out from the others – Pucon. This small tourist town in the middle of Chile stole everyone’s heart. We fell in love with it for its beauty and culture. Set on a lake overlooked by a gigantic snowy volcano, it might’ve been one of the most beautiful towns we will ever see.

The economy revolves around the outdoor industry. Let’s just say we did not ‘rest’ here. Riders hired guides and climbed the volcano. Others went white water rafting. Adrenaline seekers are in heaven here. There were thoughts about going mountain biking or renting backcountry skis as well. We wouldn’t have known about Pucon without stopping there for a day. My point is that being a tourist and not cycling everyday is a different form of self care. One could say it’s giving yourself a mental break from cycling.

Dealing with rain is a new obstacle we have faced in Patagonia. From not seeing rain for a month to dealing with rain almost every day is the biggest challenge for the group. How do we deal with this? The rain wear comes out. In any form possible. We all have rain jackets that are breathable for cycling and have a cheap poncho for in camp. One key factor in the rain is keeping your feet dry. I’ve seen riders with specialized cycling shoe covers and have seen others put their feet into plastic bags and then into their riding shoes. Whatever works!

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This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Nicholas Coe is the Content Creator for the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. In this report, he looks at the food in both Argentina and Chile.

Now that we have experienced time in Argentina and Chile, the group has been able to taste local foods in both countries of this expedition. Either while on the road cycling or enjoying a rest day, we are getting a taste of local foods almost every day.

Chef Mark at the grill

From our experience, Argentina knows how to cook meat. Beef, beef, beef! It is of extremely high quality, but low in diversity. They have just a few things they specialize in, but those things are really, really good. Good maté, good parrilla, good beef and Dulce de Leche, of course (they use it like people in the US and UK use peanut butter). Parrilla is basically the Argentinian word for grilling. It refers to any meat that is cooked over an open fire or coals on a grill – and almost every restaurant cooks that way.

Group dinner

The group had a rest day in Mendoza, the capital for Malbec wine in Argentina. We caught wind of a restaurant that was considered one of the best wine restaurants in the world – Abrasado Restaurante. The steak to wine pairing certainly did not disappoint. It felt like a must do, especially after passing kilometres of vineyards on the way into Mendoza the day before.

There is less variety in Argentina than in Chile which also has parrilla, but is better known for its seafood and especially ceviche. Ceviche is an interesting dish from Peru – raw fish that is soaked in a citric substance like lemon and then mixed with a variety of ingredients. With a long Pacific Ocean coastline like Chile, it would be a surprise if they didn’t eat a lot of seafood! In any coastal town, we would bike past dozens of ceviche stands.

Fresh from the sea

Our chef  Mark loves to use local foods in all of his dishes. While in Argentina, he would get local beef to add to his curry, stew, pasta, etc. While in Chile, he has used an open grill to cook fish that was caught just hours prior to the meal!

It is very interesting to observe the changes in food and cuisine as one travels along. The type of food being used is based on the resources available to the culture; beef in central Argentina and farmland and fish in coastal Chile. Other cultures also can have an influence on the food as well. Argentina is known to have fantastic ice cream (which is true!) due mainly to the country’s Italian cultural heritage.

Malbec grapes as far as the eye can see

One common interest for everyone on the South American Epic is wine. And why wouldn’t it? We are cycling in fantastic wine country! Argentinian native and TDA staffer, Juan Farias, thinks, “Argentina does Malbec the best, but Chile has the best wine.” Chilean wineries have mastered more of a variety like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carmenere but Argentinian Malbec is considered the best in the world. An added bonus is that when you are in wine country, it is typical for the wine to be extremely cheap…

As we head farther south, food is going to become scarcer with much smaller towns and much less variety available. It’s going to be interesting to see how this food transition unfolds!

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Nicholas Coe is the Content Creator for the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition. In this report, he looks back at first days of cycling in Argentina.

Every journey contains the seeds for many stories. Here are 3 that germinated during the early days of the 2022 South American Epic Cycling Expedition.

Soltando – Amarras

On the expedition’s sixth camping night, we stayed in Villa Maria – a small farm town in central Argentina known to be the centre of agricultural production. When arriving at our campground, we were greeted by an overwhelming amount of 1970 VW buses! We thought there might be a convention at this campground. And we guessed correctly. Over twenty unique motorhomes gathered here, and we were camped in the middle of it. A few riders and I walked around like it was a museum. One of the buses caught our eye.

It was an aqua, turquoise bus, decorated with personal paintings of flowers and stickers. It had a pop-up roof and a beautiful interior design (they had the sliding doors open). After some encouragement, we went to say hi to the owners. A couple, Carolina and Carlos were drinking tea inside with a friend and had the most welcoming smiles I have ever seen. They were so happy to share their story with others. It started a few years ago when they drove from Ushuaia to Alaska – the full length of South and North America combined. Imagine, the South American Epic combined with the North American Epic!

Their stories can be seen on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube. There are lots of adventures, mechanic problem solving (if you know anything about VW buses, this is hilariously common) and stories. The couple gave us some personal stickers as well, which live on our water bottles now. Carolina and Carlos are from Buenos Aires and reside there currently. The trip is done, but they are keeping the van and love going on weekend trips and meet-ups like this one with the VW community.

Difunta Correa

On most days on the road, the riders pass by little structures on the side of the road. They are surrounded by bottles of water and decorations. Our own staffer, Juan Farias, educated us on the story behind them. Juan is native to Argentina and was a history teacher here as well. The story revolves around a semi-pagan saint in folk-religion, Correa. It is said that during the revolution in the 19th century, she was walking across the country to find her husband who was involved in the fighting. She was traveling with her baby and during her travels, she died of dehydration. However, it is thought that the baby nursed itself for two days on his deceased mother, until it was found by others.

We cycle by many, many shrines along the roads dedicated to her. In the town of Vallecito, just outside of San Juan, the mother’s bones are buried making it a huge religious destination that brings many people from all over Argentina together. Difunta Correa is an interesting story that parallels ours as we pass through central Argentina. It is a story to us, but also a large part of many people’s beliefs in this part of the world.

Bermejo – Anniversary

Another parallel story we have had along our path is from the tiny town of Bermejo. The county has a population of twenty thousand, but it felt much smaller. When we arrived at camp in town, coincidentally, it was the town’s 137th anniversary. I have never been in a place that celebrates a random number like that – or maybe it was just random to me. Anyways, we were blessed with live music, ice cream, and friendly locals wishing us all the best on our journey.

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

During the 2 weeks of the 2022 South American Epic that I was fortunate enough to experience on a break from our virtual office, the riders pedalled out of Argentina’s capital, Buenos Aires, and across the famous Pampas, an area of incredibly fertile soil whose products include wheat, meat and wool.

At this time of year, spring in the Southern hemisphere, the new wheat shoots appeared as a mesmerizing emerald green against the dusty brown fields. Leaving behind the vast sprawl of Buenos Aires, huge ranches and farms began to appear. They reminded me of the North American prairies…but with bright green parakeets and towering palm trees!

Our route out of the city took us along the banks of the Rio Parana, South America’s second largest river, known for its incredible floods, hence the riverside towns being built up on the nearby bluffs. Each night we camped along the water and enjoyed the beautiful views across the water. In the small town of Baradero, as the sun came up, a half dozen wild horses came racing down the dirt road along the river, their tails whipping wildly behind them, their hooves spraying dust into the air. A short time later a guacho (akin to American cowboys) appeared on a horse and effortlessly corralled the escapees and led them back home.

Four days of cycling took us into Rosario, a vibrant city of over a million people, one that I had never heard of. After just one rest day, I knew I would love to come back. Parks, bike lanes, art and architecture. A revitalized park that extended for over 15 kms along the river. Streets lined with towering eucalyptus and sycamore trees. Waterfront restaurants that featured elevators for diners to descend to the river from the bluffs, there to gorge on the delicious local speciality – Boga, a large freshwater fish served whole and seasoned with herbs, lemon, white wine and a variety of spices. Huge ocean going freighters glide effortlessly past on their way to Paraguay.

Rio Parana @ Rosario

In the city centre there are almost no stoplights/stop signs. It is all about yielding but when I asked Juan, our local Argentinian support, about the rules he simply shrugged his shoulders and said he had no idea. Perhaps that explains the few lights that I did see where the green pedestrian signal showed the traditional little green man but in this case his legs were moving quickly, as if he were running for his life.

Rosario is also where Che Guevara was born, is home to the incredible footballer Lionel Messi (left in background) and was where the national flag of Argentina was first raised. As I wandered the streets, I came across a memorial to the Armenian genocide which seemed totally out of place in this city until I found out that actually the country has a substantial Armenian community. In addition, a large number of immigrants from the Middle East made Argentina their new home. One of the past presidents, Carlos Menem, who was in power from 1989-99, had parents who emigrated from Syria. When I mentioned him to Juan, he hissed at me, as it is considered bad luck to even say his name out loud as a result of the disastrous economic polices that he implemented.

After our rest day here, we turned northwest and headed out across the pampas once more. The next 4 days introduced us to the famous winds including the ‘pampero’ – a dramatic blast of cold antarctic air from the southwest. This usually occurs in the Spring months and, as we found out, can dramatically alter the temperature. The second day out of Rosario, from Las Rosas to Villa Maria, was already going to be a challenge. At 158 km, it was the second longest day on the entire tour.

On the day leaving Roasario, the winds started to pick up and actually blew a canopy right off one of the support vehicles. That night, as I lay in my tent, the winds howled and the temperature dropped. By dawn, the only thing holding the tent in place was my weight. I figured the day’s ride might be cancelled but the riders insisted on giving it a try and off they went. By the end of the day, only 2 riders managed to cycle the entire distance but everyone gave it a try. Quite an amazing group of riders.

Fortunately, the winds began to die down over the next 2 days and the temperature returned to normal. The route continued across the endless pampas and we were thrilled to see how much bird life the fields supported. The most impressive was the huge bird of prey, the Caracara, which liked to perch on the fenceposts and watch us as we pedalled past. As we drew closer to the historic city or Cordoba, the landscape started to change, rolling hills began to appear and in the distance the shadow of the Sierras de Córdoba, the mountain range to the west that marks the end of the magnificent northern pampas, emerged.

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South American Epic

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I landed in Buenos Aires after a long overnight flight that (per usual these days) included a couple of delays including one where a Brazilian airport employee drove a baggage cart into the side of the plane. The airport in Buenos Aires was much calmer and smaller than I had expected for a large city (pop. 15 million) and my initial opinion was not improved by what seemed to be a vast swath of ugly, degraded high rises bracketing the highway on the way in from the airport. Ill winds, indeed!

After a good night’s sleep I was able to wander around the city centre and my mood shifted drastically. The area is a grid of cobblestone streets each dotted with small shops. This is Argentina, land of meat-eaters, and so almost each small food shop contained it’s own ‘carniceria’ (meat counter) but also a great selection of fruit and veggies.

There was a touch of Paris in the air with corner bars complete with stand-up coffee counters and take out windows.

Walking up and down the streets, I noticed a number of rail lines, peeking out from under the pavement. Curious, I investigated a little and discovered that Buenos Aires had, in the past, been known as ‘The City of Trams’. At its peak in the 1920’s, the system featured almost 900 km of track and 100 lines. Unfortunately, in the 1960’s, like many cities throughout the western world, the municipal authorities decided to replace the city’s trams with buses and after 100 years of distinguished service they were completely eliminated.

This is also a very political city. Out walking you can hear bells, whistles and drums almost constantly, the sound of the numerous political protests in the streets. These days they are usually good-natured and friendly but the possibility of violence in never far from the surface. After all, it has only been 45 years since the generals were kidnapping ‘subversives’, stealing their babies to be brought up by military families and throwing prisoners, still alive, from helicopters into the Rio de la Plata River. That sort of history doesn’t just vanish without leaving some serious scars behind.

One of the most inspiring sights is to be found in the Plaza de Mayo. Here, the Madres de Plaza Mayo (Mothers of the Plaza Mayo) are remembered. In opposition to the military junta during the ‘Dirty War’ (1976-83), mothers of children who had kidnapped decided to demonstrate for their live return, donning children’s diapers (later replaced by white headscarves) on their heads as a political statement, creating an unforgettable image. Their courage was incredible as many of the group were targeted and eliminated. In fact, one of the founders who was killed, Azucena Villaflor, has her ashes buried in the Plaza de Mayo itself.

A few minutes walk from the Plaza, there is an area of old warehouses and harbour cranes that has been re-invented as a beautiful place to walk along the old canal and enjoy some incredible views and delicious food. Just a little further east is the beautiful Reserva Ecologica Constanera, a large marshy nature reserve that is home to hundreds of bird species and makes for an easy and relaxing escape from the hectic streets of Buenos Aires. Along the edge of the reserve runs a boardwalk with numerous food trucks for a bite to eat after a wonderful nature walk. Smooth sailing, indeed.

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

A 4500 m high salt lake littered with flamingoes flapping wings. Vicunas hiding behind volcanic boulders. Wind gusting, creating a sandy haze from the desert landscape and eventually a purplish sunset. To me it sounds beautiful, but with the temperature near zero degrees, the sun setting and me standing out in the open in the process of cooking for a group of cyclists crossing South America, it was hard to focus on anything other than the struggle. This is near the Chilean, Bolivian border. It’s, to say the least, remote. A large area with a skull and crossbones sign and fencing nearby illustrates the unrecovered land mines planted in the ground during times of heightened tension between the two countries.

Bolivian Salt Flats

The cyclists on TDA Global Cycling’s South American Epic cross from Cartagena, Colombia to Ushuaia, Argentina. It’s a 5-½ month journey covering nearly 14,000km. As an expedition chef, the job is to keep those bodies fed, healthy and in good spirits. If you can succeed in at least 2 out of those 3 you’re doing well!

Crazy for corn

South America presents countless opportunities as a chef to experiment with the local culinary scene, shop the small village markets and in the case of Argentina gorge oneself on the local grilled meats and wines. One of my favourite memories from the 2009 edition of the trip, which was at the time named the Vuelta Sud Americana and traveled from Rio de Janeiro to Quito, is arriving to a small coastal town just outside Lima, Peru. It was about 10 in the morning, but as our dinner was going to be at our hotel’s restaurant the pressure was not on me to cook. Taking advantage of this, myself and some of our other tour staff found a nearby restaurant by the sea and ordered ceviche’s and beer. Nothing could possibly compare to that ceviche. It was the perfect blend of citrus, heat from local chilis and the freshness of the seafood caught just that morning. Being a chef takes it’s toll, you end up all twitchy and irritable, but it’s mornings like that that make traveling the world as a hobo with tongs worthwhile.

Ceviche & beer

On a trip that long you also get introduced to some oddities that you could have done without. Like having all of your belongings stolen from your tent by someone with a big enough knife to slash a gaping hole in it, luckily I wasn’t inside. For every instance like that though there are ten such times that make up for it, like buying an entire crate of mangoes in Ecuador for about $5, or zipping through a coastal desert city in Peru on a Tuk Tuk to go to the market and buy 10kg of Crayfish, or watching a local in Uruguay cook a pig by cold smoking it over the course of 9 hours.

When I started working on the 2009 South America trip, I had just completed the Orient Express tour in Europe a week before and had spent 3 days driving from Istanbul to Vienna, then flying across the Atlantic to Miami, then flying across a continent to be at the start line in Rio de Janeiro on time. Sometimes the countries all become a blur and the borders take on an absurd hue that makes you hope one day for their erasure.

Cristiano on the Salar

One of the great surprises and pleasures of arriving was finding a long-haired Brazilian guy in the hotel room we’d be sharing for 1 night in Rio before the tour began. His name was Cristiano, little did I know we’d be working together from that time, 11 years ago, right up till the present, and into the future, and that he would be organizing TDA’s trips in the Americas and as far away as India. He introduced me to one of my favourite foods in the world, which only exists at Brazilian street vendors and truck stops, the Coxinha, a deep fried dumpling full of chicken salad. Another Brazilian treat was Feijoada, a stew of black beans with salted pork and sausages!

Coxinha

As a last story from TDA’s 2009 South America tour, I’ll mention a tiny village tucked into a high mountain valley in the rugged Andes between Cusco and Nazca, Peru. The group camped in the field of a local farmer who was kind to have us sleep there for the night. I was busy cooking for the group, as the farmer watched from a short distance away, when dinner was ready, he sat and ate with us and communicated in Spanish to those others in the group who could speak to him. As we cleaned up after our meal, he came over and motioned for me to follow him towards his nearby home. He led me to a small shack next to his house and with a big smile opened the wooden door for me to peek inside. It was very dark, with a dirt floor, but as my eyes adjusted, I could see small animals scurrying around on the ground, guinea pigs. He shut the door and went about getting a fire started outside, turning wood into coals, then did some business with a few guinea pigs that left them skinned and skewered. Sitting there in the deep night with mountain stars overhead, smelling the roasting guinea pigs and getting ready to try this dish for the first time, I reached for a deeper meaning in it all, but after my first bite, all I could say was…“Tastes like Chicken”.

If you find yourself in Lima, Peru, either as a participant in our South American Epic Cycling Expedition or just on your own, you will likely head out to see the city’s famous sights – the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, the Museo de Arte de Lima and the Plaza de Armas. They are certainly worth a visit but dig a little deeper and you will find some more, rather unusual attractions that are worth checking out.

Mercado de Brujas (Witches’ Market)

This unusual market is situated just outside the Gamarra train station. Once you get past the mediums offering readings and treatments, the vendors selling python skins, the witch doctors, the healers, the snake oil salesmen and the live animal market you will have the opportunity to buy palo santo, dried llama fetus, divination cards, charms, soaps, perfumes, crystals and all sorts of things to ward off evil and to attract good fortune. Or perhaps you would prefer something to drink? How about a potion that is made with a live frog plucked from a fish tank, plus pollen, coca, quail egg, honey, a fruit called noni and agorrobina, a syrup made from the black carob tree? Whatever ails you, the witches’ market is bound to have a folk remedy that claims to cure it.

Bosque el Olivar (Olive Grove Forest)

In 1560, not long after the fall of the Inca Empire, Spaniard Antonio de Rivera sailed from Sevilla, Spain, to Lima, Peru with over 100 olive plants. Only 3 survived the voyage but they thrived in the mild climate and by the time Peru gained independence in 1821, they had grown to over 3,000 trees! During the Peruvian War of Independence (1811-1826), the grove suffered badly, mainly at the hands of some departing Spaniards who chopped down and generally mutilated many of the olive trees. However, many of the trees in the grove, Bosque el Olivar, survived and about 1700 still exist today. It features, in addition to the olive trees, 44 species of trees and more than 20 species of birds, including scarlet flycatchers, blue-gray tanagers and Harris’s hawks. The olives are still harvested and distributed throughout the neighbourhood.

Expreso Virgen de Guadalupe

Wandering aimlessly through Lima’s chaotic streets the smell of coffee might lead you to the Expreso Virgen de Guadalupe, an old rail car now transformed into a cafe, serving delicious coffee and light meals. Built in Britain in the 1870’s the car was used on the Lima to Guadalupe route until the late 1990’s before being auctioned off and transformed into a cafe. It features polished pine and rosewood, elegant stained-glass windows and fin-de-siècle light fixtures. You can also enjoy your java on the adjoining patio and on the weekends there is often live music.

Abtao Submarine Museum

Always wanted to captain a submarine? Well, here is your chance. Hop aboard the BAP Abtao (SS-42) down by the harbour in Lima and give it a shot. The sub was in service with the Peruvian Navy for 48 years before being turned into South America’s first floating museum. There are no stairs and you enter and exit using vertical ladders. A special sound and light system combined with the ability to pull levers, raise periscopes and  turn dials and the gentle roll of the harbour waves makes the experience come to life. You can also use the cannon on deck, or simply enjoy the view of the port of Callao from the submarine. Be aware, the tours are in Spanish only.

Paddington Bear of Lima

Credit: Art DiNo CC BY-SA 2.0

Not many people know the connection between Paddington Bear and Peru – I sure did not! As we all know, Paddington Bear was found at Paddington railway station in London by the Brown family, sitting on his suitcase with a note attached to his coat that reads “Please look after this bear. Thank you.” What you may not realize is that he arrived there as a stowaway coming from “Darkest Peru”, sent by his Aunt Lucy who had gone to live in the Home for Retired Bears in Lima. In fact, Paddington’s real Peruvian name is Pastuso. Located in Parque Salazar along the Miraflores Boardwalk, looking out over the Bay of Santander, this statue was unveiled in 2015 to commemorate the strong ties between the UK and Peru.

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Anyone planning to embark on a 5 1/2 month bicycle tour from the top to the tip of South America, like the South American Epic Cycling Expedition, is certainly undertaking a daunting project. Riders will have a lot think about. Many things will worry them – visas, traffic, clean drinking water, flush toilets, robbery and even kidnapping. Having run cycling expeditions in South America since 2009, our staff are happy to respond to these concerns. Yet they are continually puzzled by the fact that our riders have yet to inquire about a very real and present danger along the route – monsters. They are lurking everywhere and if our cyclists are not careful, they could easily become one of their victims.

The Mother Mountain In Colombia

The first country on the South America Epic Cycling Expedition is Colombia. Sooner or later riders will pedal through one of the country’s vast forests. This is where La Madremonte’s (the Mother Mountain) spirit lives. She is known to control the weather and can easily  cause cyclists to lose their way – despite whiteboards, flagging tape and GPS tracks!

The Poisoned Urine Of The Boraro

Another scary monster living in the rainforests of Ecuador, the second country on the route of the South American Epic Cycling Expedition, is the Boraro. He has backward feet, is extremely tall and his pale skin is covered with hair. His fangs and large ears face forward. He doesn’t have knee joints so if he falls over, he has a very tough time getting back up. His poisoned urine is his primary lethal weapon but he can also kill by crushing your body until it liquefies and then piercing your skull and sucking out your brains. The Boraro protects wildlife so be careful how you treat the local critters! If you do come across him, be sure to have some tobacco to offer him. If you do not have any, cycle backwards, as this will confuse him.

Maricoxi – The Bigfoot Of The Andes

North America has Bigfoot. The Himalayas have the Yeti. In the forests of Amazon, including Peru the next county on the South American Epic itinerary, you should keep your eyes out for the Maricoxi – enormous hairy ‘savages’ that don’t speak but do grunt. People who have encountered them describe them as over 4 metres tall. So, while cycling, make sure you have your iPhone ready – just in case!

The Alligator Man of Peru

In Peru, cyclists will also ride along the coast where they should be on a lookout for El Hombre Caiman (the Alligator Man). El Hombre Caiman, like all good legends, starts as a love story. He once was a man who fell in love with a daughter of a rich man who absolutely forbade their union. The daughter used to go swimming each day and her unhappy lover, after watching her from a restaurant for many months, finally went and joined her. He repeated this day after day until suddenly one day he was turned into an alligator. It would be wise to be keep this in mind if you decide to go for a dip after a long day of cycling.

The Immortal Shaman of Bolivia

Bolivia is the next country that cyclists on the South American Epic will spent a lot of time in. Here, thousands of years ago, lived a shaman, Mapinguari, who was said to have discovered immortality. The Gods were not very happy with this discovery. In fact, they were so angry that they turned him into a wandering beast. The few lucky people who claim to have seen the shaman describe him as a giant sloth. Of course, there is a possibility that they were simply seeing a real giant sloth or maybe even a Megatherium – a large ground sloth that lived in the area during the last Ice Age.

A Chilean Chimera

From Bolivia, the cyclists will pedal into Chile, home to another scary and powerful monster. According to Mental Floss magazine, “the Huallepen or Guallipen is a Chilean chimera with the head of calf, the body of a sheep, and twisted feet. The monster lives in rivers and lakes, and will mate with livestock, producing deformed offspring. Even the sight of the Huallepen can cause a pregnant woman to bear a deformed child.” Hopefully, he will not be attracted to bicycles!

Loch Ness’ Cousin in Argentina

Finally, there is a monster lurking in Argentina. Nahuelito is a cousin to the Loch Ness monster and is reportedly living in a lake in Patagonia. There are photos that claim to prove the existence of this monster. Whether the photos were taken by a cyclist or not, after five months of spinning across South America, it is possible that cyclists may see monsters everywhere.

Fortunately, like most things that people worry about before joining our tours, these monsters have more to do with our own insecurities and lack of information than anything real out there.

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

Ah, the tastes of South America! When people think of the food scene on that vast continent they generally picture ceviche and Pisco sours in Peru or steak and bold red wines in Argentina. There are, however, some other, less-known highlights of the culinary scene that one can visit, ideally while riding the South American Epic Cycling Expedition.

Here are 6 of my favourites:

KGB Cartagena, Colombia

Soviet KGB medal

Cartagena is well-known for its historic UNESCO World Heritage Sites, stunning colonial heritage and sun-soaked beaches but did you know that in the middle of the city’s Centro Historico, you can enjoy a drink or two surrounded by an extensive collection of KGB memorabilia? Look for the mural of Lenin on the outside. Inside? Kitsch galore! Soviet era cartoons and military parades on tap, guns, helmets, servers dressed as KBG officers and a back area made into a replica of the inside of a Soviet submarine. Crack open an authentic Baltika beer from the Motherland and enjoy the retro vibe.

La Puerta Falsa, Bogota, Colombia

Colombian tamale

After a day of exploring Bogota’s oldest neighbourhood, La Candelaria, be sure to slip into one of the city’s oldest and most traditional restaurants. La Puerta Falsa (The False Door), seats maybe 20, has been around for over 200 years and offers up a simple menu of tamales, bowls of ajiaco soup (chicken and potatoes) and chocolate completo, a traditional Colombian hot chocolate with cheese, buttered bread, and a biscuit. In fact, the late Anthony Bourdain choose to try the tamales at this hole in the wall and, as he sank his knife into a succulent Bogotá tamale, exclaimed it was a “thing of beauty.” High praise indeed!

Coca Museum, Cusco, Peru

Coca leaves in the market, Cusco, Peru

Of course, the first thing you think of when someone mentions Cusco, Peru is Machu Picchu! And you should certainly visit it while you are in the city. If you do have a spare hour or so, however, look for this small museum, located just off the main square. This strange but interesting place provides an exhaustive history of Coca, a sacred native Andean planet. The locals have used it for centuries, both for religious and nutritional reasons. Those of us in the west know it mainly as an original flavouring in Coca-Cola and the essential ingredient for the production of cocaine. In fact, the museum even shows you how to make the narcotic at home! You can learn the proper way to chew coca leaves (which might help the riders on the South American Epic deal with the next high altitude stretch) and purchase all sorts of coca products from the attached store. Just be aware that many countries will not let you cross a border with the vast majority of these items. If you run out of time, note that both Puno, Peru and La Paz, Bolivia have their own Coca Museums.

Guinea Pig Last Supper, Cusco, Peru

Cusco Cathedral, Cusco, Peru

The Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin, also known as Cusco Cathedral, is located on the city’s Plaza de Armas. Its construction took over a century (1560-1654) and this UNESCO World Heritage Site contains some of Peru’s finest colonial art. Amongst these treasures in an unexpected twist on classic religious iconography. Many artists have tried their hand at painting the Last Supper but in 1753 Marco Zapata, a Peruvian Quechua painter and member of the Cusco School (the tradition of teaching European art techniques in the Americas), portrayed Jesus and his disciples enjoying a local delicacy and an Incan food staple. In the centre of the table lies a cooked guinea pig, lying paws up on a plate. It is a mystery that this image was tolerated by the Catholic authorities, especially at the time of the Inquisition. In addition to the unusual main dish, the purple drink that the disciples have is not wine but instead a traditional Peruvian drink, chicha, which is made from maize.

Olive Grove Forest, San Isidro, Peru

In 1560, not long after the fall of the Inca Empire, Spaniard Antonio de Rivera sailed from Sevilla, Spain, to Lima, Peru with over 100 olive plants. Only 3 survived the voyage but they thrived in the mild climate and by the time Peru gained independence in 1821, they had grown to over 3,000 trees! During the Peruvian War of Independence (1811-1826), the grove suffered badly, mainly at the hands of some departing Spaniards who chopped down and generally mutilated many of the olive trees. However, many of the trees in the grove, Bosque el Olivar, survived and about 1700 still exist today. In the 1920’s the area was subdivided for housing and the new owners integrated the existing olive trees into their front and back yards. Today it is a charming park just 6 km from downtown Lima. It features, in addition to the olive trees, 44 species of trees and more than 20 species of birds, including scarlet flycatchers, blue-gray tanagers and Harris’s hawks. The olives are still harvested and distributed throughout the neighbourhood.

Glaciobar, El Calafate, Argentina

Perhaps you have tried Iceberg Vodka, a Canadian spirit produced using water from icebergs harvested off the coast of Newfoundland? Perhaps, but have you enjoyed a tipple at the world’s only bar made completely from glacial ice? If you make it to the southern Argentinian town of El Calafate, be sure to head out to the Glaciarium, a modern glacier interpretation centre, located about four miles out of town, just off the road that leads out to the Perito Moreno Glacier. In addition to its informative multimedia exhibitions explaining how ice is formed and how glaciers move and shape their surroundings, the building hosts the Glaciobar, the world’s only bar made completely from glacial ice, including the seats, tables, and the glasses. Capes, gloves and boots are provided but your stay is limited to 20 minutes. It is not everyone’s cup of tea – one reviewer wrote – “In the museum is an ‘ice bar’ which is tantamount to a big industrial freezer where, after paying to enter, you can drink all you want for 20 minutes. Better to go to a restaurant and ask for a cold mug of beer.”

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South American Epic

This challenging expedition offers you the best opportunity to explore the vastness and diversity of South America by bike. In keeping with the TDA...

South America is on many of our life long bucket lists of places to visit. We have created the perfect section for those who can’t do the whole 5 1/2 month long South American Epic Cycling Expedition but want to experience the culture, see some sights, challenge themselves and walk away feeling like they accomplished something amazing!

Here are five reasons to cycle The Gringo Trail from Lima to Cusco in Peru.

1 – Not Your Typical Gringo

Not actual TDA rider

Riding your bike through South America is definitely not the usual way people do their trips. More often then not you see the photos your friends posted on social media enjoying themselves on the beach, wearing flip flops with golden tans and a spectacular view in the background. That’s all well and nice but why not do things a little differently.  If you are thinking about embarking on The Gringo Trail section of the South American Epic then your photos could look a little more like this.

2 – Two Big Bucket List Sights

Nazca Hummingbird

Machu Picchu

If you embark on this journey you will finally get the chance to visit the royal estate of Machu Picchu and the mysterious Nazca Lines in the Nazca desert. We have written about these beautiful and historic places before but The Gringo Trail is an ideal choice if those are some of your top South America destinations.

3 – Get The Strongest You’ve Ever Been, Thanks To The Andes

Not actual TDA riders

The Andes mountains are no joke when it comes to climbing. The Gringo Trail will get you a hefty taste of what it’s like to cycle the highest mountain range outside of Asia. What this means is you will never look at a tiny hill the same again, you wont be afraid of any other climb you encounter and you might even leave with rock hard legs of steel (legs of steel are not guaranteed).

4 – Lima’s Puente De Los Suspiros (Translated, The Bridge Of Sighs)

Not actual bridge

This landmark bridge is located in the bohemian Barranco district of Lima. It’s said to be the most romantic district in Lima, drawing in lovers, poets and musicians to the area. The bridge was built with a simple intention, to cross the Bajada de los Baños which leads locals and visitors to the beautiful views of the Pacific. Over the years it’s reputation started to build as a magical place to visit.  It’s said that if you hold your breath while crossing over it all your life long wishes will come true (or so they say…)

5 – Sea Lions

Not a real Sea Lion.

Have you ever seen a sea lion in the wild? If you have then you might have noticed how much they look very similar to your neighbours dog, the Labrador. They not only look like mans best friend they really do have multiple similarities. These magnificent animals have the ability to walk on all fours, have short, thick hair, and big belly’s filled with food. If you are lucky you might have the chance to see these dog like creatures multiple times on the tour. Though,  instead of stopping to give them a pet along the way, we would advise you to admire them from afar. They tend to be slightly more grumpy then the Labrador we all know and love, after all they do have to hunt for all their own food.

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We have been talking a lot lately about the South American Epic. It is our longest tour by number of days but we can’t forget that many people will be signing up for two and three week sections of this 5+ month tour. So for those of you starting or ending your South American Epic in Bogota, you might be planning to spend a bit more time in the country and we have some suggestions for you.

With the peace agreement that was signed three years ago tourism has continued to increase in Colombia. It’s no longer just hotspots and UNESCO world heritage site like Cartagena and San Augustin (which we did feature recently as well) but much more of Colombia’s vast natural environments – some of which were recently occupied by FARC – are now becoming safe and more accessible.

>>RELATED POST: Is Colombia Safe for Cycling?

I was recently invited to see some of these newly opened regions by the Colombian tourism board – ProColombia. While none of these regions are on the route of the South American Epic, I thought I’d share with you what I found in hopes that some of our participants of Undiscovered Country and Coffee & Cocoa would consider checking this out before or after their cycling adventure with us (and even full tour riders who plan to arrive early to Cartagena). Domestic flights can get you quite easily to the regions I discuss below from Cartagena and Bogota and local tour operators (two suggested below) would be happy to create an itinerary for you.

Overflight of Chiribiquete National Park

Chiribiquete is the largest national park in Colombia and the largest tropical rainforest national park in the world. It is also unique because most travellers are not allowed to enter the park at all. In the past decades, even as FARC guerrillas controlled this region, the government worked with conservationists to expand the park and restrict access to protect tribes within the park who had chosen to remain apart from the modern world. Fascinating stuff – read more about it here.

So for tourists like us, the way to see it is from the air on overflights organized by local tour operators. The flight gives you an amazing perspective – lush jungle, winding rivers, and dramatic rock formations called Tepui.

Swimming with Pink River Dolphins

From the town of San Jose del Guaviare we followed the Guaviare River to Damas del Nare – a lake occupied by 8 – 10 river dolphins. Apparently it is rare that these dolphins will stay in one area very long, but this group must like the local cuisine as they have been around for years and it is now a tourist attraction. The operators are careful to limit the number of visits by tourists and warned swimmers to remove sunscreen as not to pollute the water. To be honest these are the ugly cousins of bottle-nosed ocean dwelling dolphins, but its a really curious experience none the less – and a great excuse to explore the rivers, lagoons, and people that live in the area and operate these tours.

Hiking in the Jungle to Puerta de Orion

Puerta de Orion (shown in the lead photo of this blog) means ‘Gate of Orion’ and at just the right angle at the right time of the year Orion’s belt is perfectly centred in the hole in the rock and creates a beam of light in the darkness (so they say). But at anytime, taking the stroll through the jungle to reach this point is full of local knowledge shared by local guides on the plant life, and wildlife that inhabit the area (ants that can stitch wounds, plants that react to touch, plants that cure and plants that kill, and much more).

Further alone the trail, we came to Rio La Macarenia with its pink river flowers (macarenas clavijeras). At different times of the year the flowers are different colours. On our walk they were a pale pink growing on the rock bed of the river and bobbing with the water that rushes overtop of them. It was quite lovely. They could be clearly seen through the crystal clear river.

Witnessing Ancient Art on Ruta Rupestre

One day we did a 5 km walk uphill in dense jungle to see these incredible rock paintings which are only recently being properly protected, documented and tested to find out exactly how old they are. Even without ancient rock art the scenery was stunning, and the thick foliage, thick air, knotted vines, and green canopy of the jungle made for an eye opening experience for a northern climate dweller like myself.

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Learning What Coca Farmers are Doing Since the Peace Agreement

Probably my favourite part of all the activities we did was meeting Edilson and learning about how he has turned from being part of the illicit cocaine production system, to being a strong anti-drug advocate. Tourism has also been a big part of what people hope will make the peace agreement long lasting. Edilson can now invite people to his farm from all over the world to see what he used to do, what he is doing now, and meet some of his rescued animals like the ones pictured below.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3Qz-ignD47/

Thanks very much to ProColombia for bringing me to see these fascinating places. Thanks also to Colombia Oculta for the overflight of Chiribiquete and Frontera Travel for all the rest of the experiences on my list above. 

Do you love history, archeology, architecture and culture? Well, duh, of course! Then you should absolutely cycle the South American Epic in 2020. It will give you the opportunity to experience 9 UNESCO World Heritage sites; from mysterious megalithic sculptures in the jungles of Colombia to massive icebergs calving off the face of glaciers in Patagonia.

1. Port, Fortresses & Group of Monuments in Cartagena, Colombia

Bocachica Fort, Cartagena

“Situated in a bay in the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena has the most extensive fortifications in South America. A system of zones divides the city into three neighbourhoods: San Pedro, with the cathedral and many Andalusian-style palaces; San Diego, where merchants and the middle class lived; and Gethsemani, the ‘popular quarter’.” – UNESCO

2. San Agustin Archaeological Park, Colombia

Sculpture, San Agustin Archeological Park

“The largest group of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures in South America stands in a wild, spectacular landscape. Gods and mythical animals are skilfully represented in styles ranging from abstract to realist. These works of art display the creativity and imagination of a northern Andean culture that flourished from the 1st to the 8th century.” – UNESCO

3. City of Quito, Ecuador

Plaza de la Independencia, Quito

“Quito, the capital of Ecuador, was founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city and stands at an altitude of 2,850 m. Despite the 1917 earthquake, the city has the best-preserved, least altered historic centre in Latin America. The monasteries of San Francisco and Santo Domingo, and the Church and Jesuit College of La Compañía, with their rich interiors, are pure examples of the ‘Baroque school of Quito’, which is a fusion of Spanish, Italian, Moorish, Flemish and indigenous art.” – UNESCO

4. Chan Chan Archaeological Zone, Trujillo, Peru

Aerial view of ancient ruins of Chan Chan in Trujillo, Peru

“The Chimu Kingdom, with Chan Chan as its capital, reached its apogee in the 15th century, not long before falling to the Incas. The planning of this huge city, the largest in pre-Columbian America, reflects a strict political and social strategy, marked by the city’s division into nine ‘citadels’ or ‘palaces’ forming autonomous units.” – UNESCO

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5. Historic Centre of Lima, Peru

Archbishop’s Palace, Lima

“Although severely damaged by earthquakes, this ‘City of the Kings’ was, until the middle of the 18th century, the capital and most important city of the Spanish dominions in South America. Many of its buildings, such as the Convent of San Francisco (the largest of its type in this part of the world), are the result of collaboration between local craftspeople and others from the Old World.” – UNESCO

6. Lines & Geoglyphs of Nasca, Peru

Hummingbird, Nazca

“Located in the arid Peruvian coastal plain, some 400 km south of Lima, the geoglyphs of Nasca and the pampas of Jumana cover about 450 km2 . These lines, which were scratched on the surface of the ground between 500 B.C. and A.D. 500, are among archaeology’s greatest enigmas because of their quantity, nature, size and continuity. The geoglyphs depict living creatures, stylized plants and imaginary beings, as well as geometric figures several kilometres long. They are believed to have had ritual astronomical functions.” – UNESCO

7. City of Cusco, Peru

Cusco at sunset

“Situated in the Peruvian Andes, Cuzco developed, under the Inca ruler Pachacutec, into a complex urban centre with distinct religious and administrative functions. It was surrounded by clearly delineated areas for agricultural, artisan and industrial production. When the Spaniards conquered it in the 16th century, they preserved the basic structure but built Baroque churches and palaces over the ruins of the Inca city.” – UNESCO

8. Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu, Peru

Sunrise, Machu Picchu

“Machu Picchu stands 2,430 m above sea-level, in the middle of a tropical mountain forest, in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. It was probably the most amazing urban creation of the Inca Empire at its height; its giant walls, terraces and ramps seem as if they have been cut naturally in the continuous rock escarpments. The natural setting, on the eastern slopes of the Andes, encompasses the upper Amazon basin with its rich diversity of flora and fauna.” – UNESCO

9. Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina

Onelli Glacier, Los Glaciares National Park

“The Los Glaciares National Park is an area of exceptional natural beauty, with rugged, towering mountains and numerous glacial lakes, including Lake Argentino, which is 160 km long. At its farthest end, three glaciers meet to dump their effluvia into the milky grey glacial water, launching massive igloo icebergs into the lake with thunderous splashes.” – UNESCO

RN40, better known as Ruta 40, is the longest route in Argentina. Construction began in 1935 and the road was initially designed as a connection between the few inhabited places in the strategically important border zone with Chile. At more than 5,000 km long, it takes its rightful place among the world’s other great roads – Canada’s Trans-Canada Highway, Australia’s Stuart Highway and The USA’s Route 66. It has stirred the imaginations of many including the outlaw Butch Cassidy and writer Bruce Chatwin. An Argentinian band even wrote a song about it.

The route largely follows the course of the ancestral Inca Trail, built by the Inca Empire to link their vast territories with their capital city of Cusco, in Peru. In Patagonia it follows the path of the ancient rastrilladas of the Tehuelche natives. Most of the road runs alongside and sometimes within the Andes Mountain range, passing through some of the most extraordinary landscapes on the planet and connecting 20 national parks. It crosses 236 rivers and features 27 Andean passes (including one at 5,000 m). The elevation varies from its lowest point at 39 m above the sea level by the lighthouse at Cabo Vírgenes, (Cape Virigns) in Santa Cruz, Patagonias to 3,460 m in the border town of La Quiaca, Jujuy. It crosses 11 provinces and passes through three provincial capitals -Mendoza, San Juan and Río Gallegos. It’s length spans almost 30 degrees of latitude, from 22° 45’S to the parallel of 52° – from the tropics to cold Patagonian glaciers. With its hairpin bends and endless straight sections buffeted by violent gusts across the deserted steppe, Ruta 40  is easily considered one of the world’s most epic rides.

Iglesia San Francisco, Salta

Cyclists taking part in TDA Global Cycling’s South American Epic Cycling Expedition will be delighted to discover that they will cover over 1100 km of this legendary road during the Expedition’s ‘Across the Andes‘ section that runs from Salta, Argentina to Santiago, Chile. In fact, the riders will re-join Ruta 40 over a month later in Patagonia for another 265 km!

>>Related Post: Cycling Patagonia: Everything You Need To Know

The ‘Across the Andes’ section begins in Salta, Argentina, known for its Spanish colonial architecture and Andean heritage. This city was originally on the Ruta 40 until a new road was built further west so now the riders will have to wait until the town of Cafayate, 200 km away, to start cycling on the official route. For the next 1100 km, until Mendoza, they will experience the history and sights of this fabled road.

The town of Cafayate is well known for the red rocks of the Quebrada de las Conchas and the Garganta del Diablo as well as local wineries like Finca Las Nubes which specializes in the Torrontés varietal. Heading south on Ruta 40 the landscape shifts from Triassic badlands to mountainsides striped with rocks of green, yellow, red, brown, purple, white and pink.

Quilmes

On the road to the small town of Santa Maria, a 5 km detour leads to the well-preserved pre-Colombian ruins at Quilmes (A. D. 1000).There are some great views to be had by climbing the surrounding hills but be aware that in addition to the hot sun, there is, according to Lonely Planet, ‘a large fly population keen on exploring your facial orifices.” The original indigenous inhabitants managed to co-exist with the Incas but in 1667 the Spanish deported the surviving members of the community to Buenos Aires, where a few descendants still remain. In fact, one of Argentina’s most famous beers, ‘Quilmes‘, is named after the area in Buenos Aires where the inhabitants were exiled to and where the company’s first brewery was established.

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After Santa Maria, the road weaves through the Valle Calchaquí, past dry riverbeds and scrubland with views of far-off, snow-covered mountains. Refreshments are available in the picturesque tiny village of Hualfin, surrounded by red rock walls. Approaching Belén, known as one of the best places to purchase a poncho, the scenery changes as the route enters the Quebrada del Complejo Termal, a red sandstone gorge formed through geothermal activity.

Ruins at El Shincal

Next up is the languid little town of Londres, named after its slightly more famous twin in Britain, founded in 1558 and the second oldest town in the country. It is a base for visiting the Inca ruins at El Shincal, once the capital of the Incan southern provinces. The setting is spectacular and the views are amazing. Be sure to bring your Spanish language skills as all information is in the local dialect.

Heading south, the route is spectacular, following a valley flanked on the west by the Sierra de Famatina range and to the east by the Sierra de Velasco. This is one of the highest areas of the Andes with some mountains reaching up to 6,000 m above sea level. Next up is the Wild West mining town of Chilecito. Dotted with cardon cacti, it is a good base for several attractions in the surroundings: old villages, rock formations and one of the world’s highest mountain railways which , unfortunately, has been recently shut down.

Sandstone rock formations, Talampaya

The road now bends to the west and heads to the city of Villa Union, beautifully situated amidst the intense red mountain ranges of the Sierra de Famatina and the Sierra de Maíz. On the way it passes through a spectacular gorge, the  Cuesta de Miranda. The city, which produces some delicacies like Vino Patero (foot-stepping wine) and dried fruits, is the perfect base for exploring Talampaya and Ischigualasto National Parks, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Talampaya is focused around an immense red sandstone canyon littered with surreal rock formations while Ischigualasto is dominated by a moonscape of greyish dust. Dotted around this aptly named Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) are petroglyphs and fossil sites.

Vineyard near Mendoza

Dry, hilly landscapes dominate the next stretch with the oasis town of San José de Jáchal providing a welcome break. The road passes through San Juan, the provincial capital and site of a 1944 earthquake that killed more than 10,000  people, and skirts the sand desert near Lavalle, the only desert or that kind in South America. Before long the famous vineyards of Mendoza begin to appear. Despite the fact that the area is technically a desert, sparkling irrigation ditches line the roads and burbling fountains adorn leafy plazas throughout the city.

At this point, the cyclists on the South American Epic, after raising a glass or two of Mendoza’s famous Malbec, will reluctantly leave the legendary Ruta 40 and head west, up over the Andes and into Chile, continuing their quest for Ushuaia and the southern tip of the continent.

Now that South American riders, Colombian Egan Bernal, has won the Tour de France and Richard Carapaz from Ecuador the Giro d’Italia, I think that there just might be a little more interest from cyclists wanting to ride through that wonderful continent. Since our company’s original South American trip in 2009, we have been proselytizing in blogs such 10 Reasons to Cycle South America from Top to Bottom and A Few More Excellent Reasons why you should cycle South America from Top to Bottom  and in many others about the magic that awaits you. Please allow me to mention just a few more reasons why you should consider joining us in 2020 on the next version of the South American Epic.

1. We really know South America

When it comes to cycling, we know South America like no one else. Our original South American tour took place in 2009 and since then we have spent a lot of time crisscrossing the continent, creating the most interesting cycling route possible, one that includes spectacular natural wonders, fascinating cultures and ancient civilizations.

2. We are the only organized cycling tour that does it, tip to tip, from Cartagena to Ushuaia

South America is a very big continent meaning that there are endless possibilities  on where to cycle and what route to take. Most cyclists, however, when they contemplate cycling South America think of the whole shebang, tip to tip, South to North or North to South. We like to do it north to south because it is all downhill (!) and because the weather patterns work better. We are the only company in the universe who organizes this demanding but rewarding tour.

3. We are the undisputed leaders in long distance cycling tours

We are the company that created the iconic Tour d’Afrique in 2003 and the legendary Silk Route in 2007. We have set the benchmark for long distance tours all over the world. We now have 17 tours with another one to be announced at the end of this month. We have received rave reviews from such distinguished media as the NY Times, Lonely Plant, Forbes and Outside magazine, amongst many others.

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4. After years of civil war in Colombia, we were the first cycling company to cross the country and the riders loved it

The South American Epic begins in the country that produced three top ten finishers in this year’s Tour de France and I am willing to bet that the era of South American cycling hegemony has started. Think of football/soccer and Brazil. I am also willing to suggest that if you cycle South America without cycling Colombia, it would be comparable to watching the FIFA world football championship without Brazil in it. Colombia is an amazing cycling country and one that you will never regret visiting.

>>RELATED POST – Is Colombia Safe For Cycling?

5. We rock Patagonia

Patagonia, like Colombia is one of a kind sort of place and these days more and more travellers are finding their way there. There may be other cycling tours in Patagonia but none crosses the area the way we do.  We pedal the entire mythic Carretera Austral, one of the world’s epic cycling routes. Then we cross from Chile into Argentina – an incredible day that includes two boat rides and a very long ride (or walk!) on single track. That effort brings you to one of the most remote border crossings on the continent, if not the world.

6. We have participants from all over the world

Participants who ride with us like to explore the world, but they also come from around the planet. On a typical tour, we have cyclists from at least several countries. The mix of cultures creates a fun and relaxed atmosphere and many riders go on to become friends for life.

7. We understand that long distance cyclists need good and nutritious food

We know how many calories it takes to cycle 120 km day after day. Our Operations Manager used to be on the Canadian National cycling team and among his many talents, he also happens to be a qualified chef. He understands what it takes to feed a cyclist who expands a lot of energy every day and we make sure he trains every one of our field chefs.

8. We take care of you and provide a sweep staff rider for security

Your safety is of primary importance to us. This means learning everything about the routes we cycle and making sure that there is a staff sweep rider who is in constant communication with the rest of the team, just in case of an emergency.

9. We have over 17 years of experience

Since our company was created in 2002, we have operated long distance tours in more than 80 countries. The cumulative distance our riders have covered would bring us to the moon and back several times over. This means that over the years we have gained a significant amount of expertise and have learned to deal with just about any problem that comes our way. Our core company team has not changed for over a decade and has the experience to solve problems wherever and whenever they occur. In fact, some participants, having seen the challenges and the way we have dealt with them, have suggested that we are actually a logistics and problem-solving company that happens to run long distance cycling tours.

“It is mentally, physically, and emotionally challenging. But you get to see more of each country than the average tourist.” – Rebecca Nation (USA)

“This adventure was the most remarkable experience of my life.” – Tom Bell (Canada)

“Support was excellent. Crew was outstanding. They worked incredibly long hard hours and never displayed anything but good humour and friendly attitudes to the riders. The dinners were terrific- both nutritious and tasty. The conception was brilliant and delivery nonpareil.” – Jim Boggeman (USA)

“This is a tour where you are going to experience every conceivable bike riding condition. Smooth paved roads, check. River bed like pounding, check. Fifteen kilometre climbs in assorted gravel and paved conditions, check. Fifteen kilometres descents in assorted gravel and paved conditions, check. Constantly rolling terrain with fifteen percent plus grades, check. Front, side and back winds from 5 to 70 plus k, check. Sunshine and rain, check. Riding alone, check. Riding in a group, check. New friends and learning about different countries, cultures and thoughts, absolutely checked.” – Dan Squires (USA)

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“This tour was as advertised. Challenging, both mentally and physically.” – Barb Sweeney (Canada)

“A great experience and I’m glad I did it!” – Nola Reynolds (Canada)

“The tour was a remarkable experience. With the logistical support of TdA, and the personal support of the crew and other riders, I was able to complete a bike ride that I had dreamed of for years. I am exceptionally grateful.” – Kent Kirshenbaum (USA)

“I would describe this trip as totally awesome on so many levels…Mind you this was the toughest tour I have ever been on, both physically and mentally. And now that I’m home I wouldn’t trade one minute of it. Pretty sure that I will be cherishing these moments for quite some time.” – Lloyd Strong (Canada)

“I was worried about joining the tour midway and for just 1 section, but the staff and other riders welcomed me and included me as if I had been there the entire time. It was difficult to leave after my section. The food was great and the accommodations were as advertised. It was great to ride at my own pace- hard if I wanted a good workout and more leisurely when I wanted to see the area more- very flexible. Tour leaders provided info for area sites etc. It was a great trip; I can’t wait to do another section.” – Wayne Brown (USA)

Read what 2015 South American Epics riders had to say about their experience.

The North American Epic and the South American Epic are our two longest tours – North America covering the most kilometres (14,515) and South America for the number of days (167). With the North American Epic now sold out and registrations starting to accumulate for next summer’s South American Epic, we thought it was a good time to point out of few of our best blogs about cycling the vast South American continent from top to tip.

1. Is Colombia Safe for Cycling?

Our most recent blog addressed a common question that people ask about countries like Colombia. Read the full blog here.

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2. Exploring Machu Picchu on the South American Epic

“This ancient part-time residence of the Incan leader Pachacuti was built and populated in the 15th century, before being abandoned sometime after Pachacuti’s death in 1472. The site remained unknown to the outside world for hundreds of years, with only local animal herders and wanderers knowing it existed. Only in the early 20th century did the incredible beauty of its location and structures gain fame, after an American historian, who mistook it for the ‘Lost City of the Incas’, found his way to Machu Picchu, Quechua for ‘Old Peak’.” Continue reading…

3. Cycling the Bolivian Salt Flats

For solo and group cycle tourists alike, the Uyuni Salt Flats have become a must on any South American cycling odyssey. This blog breaks down our route from La Paz and on through the immense Salt Flats. Read the blog here.

4. Wine and Dine Like an Argentine

After pedalling the gruelling Salt Flats on the Bolivian Plateau, Argentina can feel almost idyllic, as this blog explains. Read the full blog here.

5. Just another day on the South American Epic

The title of this blog is a bit tongue in cheek. While in Chile on the 2015 South American Epic, TDA Founder Henry Gold explained the unexpected and implausible that does sometimes occur on our tours, keeping the ship upright and pointed towards Ushuaia. Read the blog here.

6. The Lake District: A Welcome Dose of Pleasant

As the challenges and frustrations ebb and flow over the course of a half year of cycling South America, there are moments and sections that are a pleasant reprieve from hard days and harsh climates. Read about one such place in this blog.

7. Cycling Patagonia: Everything you need to know

This go-to resource piece is one of our most read blogs of all time – for good reason. It’s packed with useful insight for any touring cyclist – solo or in a group – who is heading to Patagonia. Read all the details here.

8. 10 Reasons to Cycle South America from Top to Bottom

This is a lighter post highlighting some of our favourite parts of South America that will hopefully inspire you to head there yourself. Read all 10 here.

9. A Few More Excellent Reasons Why You Should Cycling South America

OK, so we got carried away and gave you a few more reasons. Read and enjoy.

10. Cycling South America: 8 Epic Climbs and Descents

If there is one geographic feature that symbolizes South America, it is undoubtedly the Andes Mountain Range. Read about our favourite rides in the mountains of South America.